I just wanted to post this up as a public service announcement as I get 2012 owners asking me this question all the time. If you lift your 2012 Jeep JK Wrangler more than 2.5″, you will have issues with your factory front drive shaft making contact with the exhaust cross over. However, rather than wasting your money on a Y-Pipe kit that can cost upwards of $300, please do yourself a favor, spend the extra $150 and just upgrade your front drive shaft to a 1310 drive shaft like the kind that J.E. Reel or even Coast makes.
So you know, an aftermarket 1310 drive shaft or even 1350 drive shaft will be narrower in diameter, will not have a slip shaft boot and will not make contact with your JK’s exhaust cross over as would be the case with a factory drive shaft. This is a shot of a factory drive shaft installed on a 2012 JK with 3.5″ of lift and at a full droop…
Now, this is a shot of our J.E. Reel 1350 front drive shaft installed on Rubicat with 12″ coil overs, no exhaust modifications and at a full droop…
As you can see, the shaft is not making any contact with the exhaust cross over and there is plenty of room to spare. Also, on the 2012 JK’s, the taller you go, the more of an angle you will have at your output shaft CV joint. At just 3.5″ of lift, this angle will be sever enough to cause the CV boot to fail prematurely and so, even if you were to install a Y-Pipe, you would still end up having to replace your front drive shaft sooner than later.
Need I say, do yourself a favor, spend just a little more cash and do things right the first time around.
NOTE: Results will be different on a 2012 JK with manual transmission as the transfer case will sit further back.
You’ll just want a 1310 shaft and I would highly recommend that you get a J.E Reel one that comes with spicer or Neapco u-joints. Don’t settle for popular brands that only offer cheap Chinese u-joints.
I have a 2007 4dr JK. I’m moving up from 35’s to 37’s (still 12.50 wide) on a Clayton 4.5″ long arm lift. I have a Coast 1310 in the front, but still have the OEM rear driveshaft. I get the sense that I could get by without replacing the rear, but I’d rather be safe than sorry. Should I go ahead and replace the rear with a 1310 now so I decrease my chances of breaking something in the future? Also, would I use a CTM joint? And is trussing the rear a good idea? I have a Prorock 44 with RCVs up front, and a 35 spline 44 in the rear. Thanks!
Technically, the factory shaft is stronger than a 1310. I would just run it until it breaks or needs to be replaced and, when you do, I would get a 1350 shaft. CTM’s could be used but, I wouldn’t bother on a drive shaft. Regarding a truss, what I can tell you is that I have seen more axles bent BECAUSE they got trussed than not.
Thanks!
I need some help.. I know NOTHING about jeeps. I have a two door 2012 rubicon and I’m gonna have it lifted ..I want it lifted atleast 6 inches for the look and to be taller than my buddies jeep , I’m getting 37″ tires and 20″ rims … BDS seams to be the way to go,”from what i have read online” .. So im planing to use there 5.5 in long arm suspension lift and go with a 1 in body lift. In addition To lifting it …What ALL will i need to replace on my jeep to make it last for years to come? Front and back drive shaft .. Re gear it .. And ??? Is that all .. And what should I re gear it to and what brand to you recomind . I’m not gonna be doing anything more that taking it to the beach and back road mudding.. Thank you for your help..
Just installed a 3″ Teraflex 8 arm kit. I plan to put on a Tom Woods 1310 on my 2013 JKUR. Will I need the Y-pipe spacers or a new Y pipe for it or will the 1310 clear at full droop?
Thanks!
I have a 2013 jk 4 door auto. I see people saying that they have a 3.5″ lift and use the factory driveshaft. Is it ok to do that if I’m not taking it off road?
The rear shaft will be fine. The front shaft will wear out at the CV joints sooner than later. If you go off roading, you will damage your front shaft.
Your new shaft will clear the exhaust cross over but, I might recommend a different shaft than Tom Woods. If you do get one, just make sure to upgrade the u-joints to a set of spicer or neapco. The Chinese ones he uses standard are junk.
I’m thinking about doing a 3.5 lift on my 2012 jk sport manual. Would the upgraded front drive-shaft still fix this problem or will I need the Y-pipe? Also, will I need a new rear drive-shaft?
Hey,
I’ve got a 2012 JK Sport Unlimited manual trans. Upgrading to 4″ lift with 37’s. I’m also upgrading to a dual stabilizer setup. Do I need to replace any of the factory drive shafts for this? Also are there any other parts that need to be addressed other than the exhaust extention? It’s my daily driver so i’m not doing too much crazy off roading but I don’t want to be snapping parts if i do decide to try something in the future…. Thanks!
I have the 2013 unlimited rubicon 10th anniversary and I plan to install 4″ TF Long Arm Lift, upgrading to 1350 drive shafts for front and rear. I also plan to regear to 5.13 and put on 37’s. In addition thinking about adding 4″ Speed Bumps. This is the automatic transmission so do you see if I am missing anything?
I also forgot to mention that I will be doing a lot of off roaring. I have joined Jeep Jamboree USA and plan to attend 6 or more of their events per year. I am also close to an off road (Rock) area where I will doing a lot of driving.
Should I be concerned about driveshafts on a 2012 jku sport auto tran. with a 2.5″ teraflex budget boost? Would that 2.5″ put the Driveshafts at their limits and affect reliability?
It would ONLY if you got shocks with your kit that allow for too much droop. If you got your kit with shock extensions, you will be fine.
I have a 2010 sport 2dr automatic if i wanted the rubicon express 3.5″ lift will i need a new ds? and what other parts would i need that dont come with the kit?
Yes. If the kit doesn’t already come with them, you will need adjustable rear upper control arms so that you can set your pinion angle.
Hello,
I am in a pickle. I have the budget for a 2.5″ TF Coil lift with shock adapters. I plan on doing little to no wheeling at all (I like the look), I plan on running 35’s on my ’13 2 Door Auto. If I primarily drive highway and city streets, will I need the DS? Or should I stick with the 2.5″ BB. The Coil lift gives more lift, but I’d like to avoid buying a new DS.
Thanks!
Hi,
I purchased a 1998 jeep tj as my new project vehicle and want to run a 3in lift kit on it with 37s, can you help me determine what I’ll need to do to keep it running in top shape?
Thanks
I have a -12 Wrangler JKU and am installing a Rubicon Express 2.5″ suspension lift with monotube shocks on 33″ Nitto Terra Grapplers. Do I need a new DS for this??
Depends on if the shocks are long enough to give you enough droop to cause your factory shaft to make contact with the exhaust cross over.
Hi Tom, I might recommend you asking this question over on http://www.WAYLIFE.com. This is our forum and you’ll find a lot more people who can assist you with your TJ.
Have a 2012, 2 door jk with 2 1/2 lift. It has light spring pkg *BUT*! I’ve ordered the HD springs 19s front, 60s rear for it. Will this raise it to where I will need mods other than shocks? Was setting up for towing. Was told 100 different stories . 1/4-1/2 lift, over an inch blah blah, which is right? And will I have to change a lot of stuff. Not worth the headache if that’s the case. Thx
Btw, 2 1/2 lift is “spacers only” kit with longer Bilstein shocks added. Factory springs are 14s in front. Can’t remember rears off hand right now. Thx again
You can run a spacer lift with factory shocks and shock adapters. If you do this, you will not have to address your front drive shaft. If you install new longer shocks that allow for too much droop, you will need to change out your front drive shaft.
Okay i need help . I have 2010 jk 4 door sport unlimtied . Im running a 4 ” tera flex long arm kit been running 37×13.5×17 tires on it pretty much since day one on built stock axle lol. I just bought the new prorock 80 for the rear and 60 up front i want to run 40×13.5×17 on it but ive already blow threw a transmission with 37 does any one daily drive with 40 or have transmission problems with 40 or is there anything i can do to beef it up .. this is kinda off topic subject cant find any info on it . So if any one could answer this for me would be awesome thanks ben .
So I have a 2010 4dr jk with the 6 speed manual tranny and I am looking to put a 4in suspension lift in it. Looking to run 35s or 37in tires. Would I need to upgrade my front and rear drive shafts to accommodate the lift?
Also any recommendations on a lift kit? Should I go Long arm? short arm? It is my DD, but I like to hit the trails in it as well.
I just had my 2000 jeep cherokee sport lifted 4.5 inches. Is there any reason why the front looks a lot more lifted than the back or is this normal?
I have a 2013 jeep wrangler unlimited. Right now my tires measure 32.1 in diameter looking to run mickey Thompson atz p3 in 35.Might be going with a 2.5 rock krawler suspention lift.What do I need to get my drivelines back where they should be so there is no trouble down the road with u joints and tranny and such
Excellent forum ! And thanks in advance. I have a 2012 jku auto, with 6″ fabtech coilovers running 37s and xrc fender flares, should I go with the same brand on the driveshaft? Or would you recommend a different one? Also should I go with 1310 or 1350? Ty!
Hello I know this thread is old but if I got a 2015 unlimx 4 door 6 spd do I still need the cv shaft?
Hi Eddie, question I have a manual 2008 jk unlimited rubicon,planning to lift 4 inch, which drive shafts do you recommend specially cause rubis got 44 dana front and rear? Thanks in advance for the info ( beside dvs any other part need to be add?)
Thanks
David