Planning to Lift Your 2012 Jeep JK Wrangler? Skip the Y-Pipe & Just Get a 1310 Front Driveshaft

I just wanted to post this up as a public service announcement as I get 2012 owners asking me this question all the time. If you lift your 2012 Jeep JK Wrangler more than 2.5″, you will have issues with your factory front drive shaft making contact with the exhaust cross over. However, rather than wasting your money on a Y-Pipe kit that can cost upwards of $300, please do yourself a favor, spend the extra $150 and just upgrade your front drive shaft to a 1310 drive shaft like the kind that J.E. Reel or even Coast makes.

So you know, an aftermarket 1310 drive shaft or even 1350 drive shaft will be narrower in diameter, will not have a slip shaft boot and will not make contact with your JK’s exhaust cross over as would be the case with a factory drive shaft. This is a shot of a factory drive shaft installed on a 2012 JK with 3.5″ of lift and at a full droop…

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Now, this is a shot of our J.E. Reel 1350 front drive shaft installed on Rubicat with 12″ coil overs, no exhaust modifications and at a full droop…

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As you can see, the shaft is not making any contact with the exhaust cross over and there is plenty of room to spare. Also, on the 2012 JK’s, the taller you go, the more of an angle you will have at your output shaft CV joint. At just 3.5″ of lift, this angle will be sever enough to cause the CV boot to fail prematurely and so, even if you were to install a Y-Pipe, you would still end up having to replace your front drive shaft sooner than later.

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Need I say, do yourself a favor, spend just a little more cash and do things right the first time around.

NOTE: Results will be different on a 2012 JK with manual transmission as the transfer case will sit further back.

50 Comments

  1. 6″ is a LOT of lift. you planning on running 40″ tires? if so, 1350 is the way to go. we are only running 3.5″ of lift with trimmed flares to clear our 37’s. also, please note that depending on how long your shocks are, you will most likely still need to install a y-pipe adapter.

  2. Im waiting for Evo to release there new bolt on king coil overs…meanwhile I am going to get the drive line I dont know If I should get the 1310 or 1350 because, I have a 6spd 2012 and Im going to run 37s. Their site says the 1310 is for 3″ lift and up to 33s..

  3. Does this apply for 2010 auto jk unlimited’s as well? I know going anywhere above 2.5″ requires a new front ds. Would you recommend this for a 2010 with 3 or 3.5″ lift?

    Thanks!

  4. What is recommended for a Manual Transmission, just a longer shaft? Any suggestions on what to look at?

  5. on a 2010, the setup is different but, being that you have an auto, yes, you will definitely want an aftermarket drive shaft if you run 3″ of lift or more.

  6. Have a 12 2dr. Rubicon 6spd. and just ordered the RK 2.5 max travel system, bilstein 5100’s and a front J.E. Reel 1350 drive shaft. Will I need anything else to clear the exhaust? And should I change the rear drive shaft also? Thanks

  7. Quick question! I plan on getting a ’12 Sport- Manual. If I want to put some 33’s would I need a lift? If so, would you recommend 2.5″ or 3″? (I don’t plan on doing any rockcrawling or any hardcore upper-tier offroading, don’t know if that changes anything.) I would like to add a Flowmaster 40 or Super 44 series.
    So now my question: For all of this to take place, what would be needed to change on the vehicle, and what do you recommend?

    Thanks in advance,
    -John

  8. Hey I have 08 jk 2door manual 6 speed I am going to put either a 3inch or 2.5 lift with 35s any recommendations to ensure the uni joints and would you recommend the 1350 shafts.

  9. you do not need to address your front driveshaft on a 08 with a 6-speed. you will however want to address your rear drive shaft with 3″ of lift or more. how big of a tire are you hoping to run?

  10. I have 12 JK 4dr manual I am getting a 3″ teraflex suspension lift and 35″ tires. The jeep shop that is installing the lift says Chrysler makes them put limiting straps on for the rubbing. Is there a driveshaft a dealer can get that will solve the problem without the straps?

  11. my 08 jku is using a 1310 coast shaft. no issues yet. I was looking for 1350’s but I found that you could get the rear shaft with 2 1350’s but the front had a 1350 and a 1310 joint. so Unless things changed that you can get full 1350’s then why do it. your drivetrain is only as strong as your weakest link. so I went all 1310’s.

    if all 1350’s are available post it up. thanks.

  12. thinking about a 3.5 RockKrawler lift on a 2012 Jeep JKUR with manual transmission.

    Can you tell me if I need the driveshaft along with any other modifications I’ll need other than the lift kit?

    muchos gracias,

    -G

  13. being that you have a 4-door, you can get away with the rear factory shaft. up front, it makes no difference if you have an auto or manual on a 2012-up. you will need a new front shaft.

  14. 2dr 2012 running 35’s w/ 3.25 suspension. Getting new Front drive shaft to accommodate the steep angle from output joint. Any other necessary mods, to keep her running well? upgrade gears from 3.73 to 3.93?

  15. being that you have a 2-door, you will need to replace your rear shaft sooner than later as well. adjustable rear upper control arms will be needed to set your pinion angle.

  16. Hi Eddie,
    I have a 2012 wrangler, I want to put a 2″ lift and 33″ tires, on stock 18’s. Do I need to run 1-1/2″ spacers to keep from rubbing on ball joints? and will this cause any any drive line issues? also, I am running 3:21 gear :(.

    Thank you
    Tony

  17. there is a company out there that makes an exhaust flange spacer that moves the exhaust back alittle so the stock dirveshaft clears with bigger lifts.

  18. zone offroad offers the flange spacers to move the exhaust back some. seen it on youtube on one of their jk builds

  19. there are companies that make them and, while it will help prevent your drive shaft from making contact with the exhaust cross over, it will do nothing to prevent the eventual failure of your cv boot at the output shaft due to the extreme angle placed on it after lifting a jeep.

  20. Is this needed for the 2013 Rubicon Auto’s as well. Looking to add the 1.5 TF Leveling Kit with Trimmed Fenders to clear 315/76R16…..I think this will work, but not be as flexible as a full 2.5 RK Stock Mod lift, but should keep the driveshaft away from the Exhaust and not bind up the Auto with the steep angles as well….And, the stock Rubicon shocks will limit some of the down travel, so it should all work without any extra mods, correct?

    Thanks, William

  21. Thanks for sharing this great info. Very helpful. Wondering if you can help me confirm my next build phase. 🙂

    I have a 4d 2012 JKU Rubicon.

    Current build:
    – 295/70 17 Nitto Terra Grappler AT (~33.4″)
    – 17×8.5 AEV Classic 5 Hole wheels w/ 4.7″ backspacing
    – Bushwacker flat fenders
    – Hanson front & rear bumpers w/ Warn XD 9000i winch on the front
    – 1.5″ spring spacer on the front to level it out

    I’d like to get 35s next, but need as minimal of a lift as possible! My wife is short and has put her foot down on that one since it’s our primary family vehicle.

    At full flex, w/ 1 wheel off the ground, I have about 1/8″ between my tires and the fender in the rear wheel well. The front has plenty space.

    I’m thinking about going up ~1″ from where I am right now.
    – Front current has 1.5″… so I’ll got w/ 2.5″ spacer (max w/out further mods – right?)
    – Stock rear = .75″ spacer right? … so I need 1.75″? Thinking about going with 2″.
    – add 2″ to rear bump stops

    It sits almost perfectly level right now. I’d be happy w/ 1/4″ less between the front and rear.

    Question…

    1) Am I crazy to think 35s will fit without rubbing at all front or rear… a full flex/lock?
    2) Do you think I’ll be OK with the drive front & rear drive shafts and the exhaust cross-over?

    I’d greatly appreciate your input.

    Thanks!!
    Grant

  22. Does this write up applies to a 2007 JK Wrangler X with a 3.5 Rock Krawler kit and 35″ tires? In other words; do I need to change the driveshafts? Thanks in advance!

  23. no, it only applies to a 2012-up. if you have a 6-speed, you will not need a new drive shaft or need to address your exhaust on your 07. if you have an auto, you will need to replace your front driveshaft but, not because of the exhaust but rather, the factory unit will get damaged on your transmission and skid plate. if you have a 2-door, you will eventually need a rear shaft as well with as much lift as you have. you will need new rear adjustable control arms to dial in your pinion angle too.

  24. Thanks for the clarification! I have a 2 door, 6 speed, next gen dana 44 hd rear axle. The lift kit came with adjustable lower control arms. Should I get the RK upper control arms and not worry about the driveshaft? Lastly, if I have to get a driveshaft; which one would you recommend? Once again, thank you fo the expert advice! Julio!

  25. being that you have a 6-speed, you should be fine up front. being that you have a 2-door, i would recommend that you save up for a rear shaft as you will need to replace it sooner than later. rear upper arms will be needed and the rk ones should be fine. as far as shafts go, i personally like je reel or coast as they made well and come with neapco or spicer u-joints. other popular brands use cheap chinese joints unless you request to upgrade them.

  26. Listened to your advice and ordered RK adjustable upper control arms. Question is; how do I adjust them for the proper pinion angle? Whats the proper angle?
    Thanks for the assistance!

    Julio

  27. Hey I have a 2012 2 dr with an aev 2.5 suspension kit was wondering if I need to have exhaust spacers or a new ds in mine I’m also running 33 inch tires I do wheel it and I have sway bar discos was wondering if at full droop I’ll get any touching considering the aev website says I do not need to do any upgrades.

  28. it depends on the shocks you run with the kit. if they are short enough, you won’t need to worry about it. if they are long enough to allow for more droop, you will.

  29. Just an FYI guys I lifted my 2012 up today sway bar discos were off and I was at full droop had an inch between the tire and the ground. I checked my driveshaft. I have about a quarter of an inch or a little more before the boot even touches the cross pipe for the exhaust like I said I’m running the aev 2.5 inch dualsport kit so at a full flex you prolly can’t go any higher but you should be safe with the 2.5 kit just some more info for some people. This is at full droop sway bar disconnected.

  30. i have a 2010 2dr 6speed lifted 2inches now on 33’s i plan to go up to 6-7inchs of lift on 39-40s. i’ll be doing very mild trail riding. its going to be my mall crawler lol. what driveshafts would be best?

  31. This has been very helpful,.. wish i would have came here sooner. I have a 2012 4dr wrangler with 3.5″ lift running on 35s. i snapped the factory front drive shaft off-roading this pasted weekend.What after market drive shaft do you recommend? thank you, RV

  32. I have a 2012 Sahara 2dr 6 speed that I’m planning to lift using the rancho 3inch trail system with the 9000xl shock what are your recommendation for my setup. I don’t go offroading much it more of a parking lot jeep.

    thanks

  33. I have a 2011 JK Sport Automatic. I am looking to add a 4″ Lift with 35″ tires. Do I need the new DS or not?

  34. Hey i just bought a 13 wrangler unlimited sport! which is obviously a 4 door! i am looking at a 2.5in tr lift or a 3in tr! i wanna run 35s. what should i look to do for drive shaft?

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