Planning to Lift Your 2012 Jeep JK Wrangler?
Skip the Y-Pipe & Just Get a 1310 Front Driveshaft

I just wanted to post this up as a public service announcement as I get 2012 owners asking me this question all the time. If you lift your 2012 Jeep JK Wrangler more than 2.5″, you will have issues with your factory front drive shaft making contact with the exhaust cross over. However, rather than wasting your money on a Y-Pipe kit that can cost upwards of $300, please do yourself a favor, spend the extra $150 and just upgrade your front drive shaft to a 1310 drive shaft like the kind that J.E. Reel or even Coast makes.

So you know, an aftermarket 1310 drive shaft or even 1350 drive shaft will be narrower in diameter, will not have a slip shaft boot and will not make contact with your JK’s exhaust cross over as would be the case with a factory drive shaft. This is a shot of a factory drive shaft installed on a 2012 JK with 3.5″ of lift and at a full droop…

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Now, this is a shot of our J.E. Reel 1350 front drive shaft installed on Rubicat with 12″ coil overs, no exhaust modifications and at a full droop…

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As you can see, the shaft is not making any contact with the exhaust cross over and there is plenty of room to spare. Also, on the 2012 JK’s, the taller you go, the more of an angle you will have at your output shaft CV joint. At just 3.5″ of lift, this angle will be sever enough to cause the CV boot to fail prematurely and so, even if you were to install a Y-Pipe, you would still end up having to replace your front drive shaft sooner than later.

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Need I say, do yourself a favor, spend just a little more cash and do things right the first time around.

NOTE: Results will be different on a 2012 JK with manual transmission as the transfer case will sit further back.

78 Comments so far

  1. David Roberson April 29th, 2012 2:25 pm

    Get this set up for my 2012 Rubicon 4 dr. Going to get Tera flex 6″ long arm. 1310 or 1350 what do you recommend? I have the automatic .

  2. wayoflife April 29th, 2012 11:45 pm

    6″ is a LOT of lift. you planning on running 40″ tires? if so, 1350 is the way to go. we are only running 3.5″ of lift with trimmed flares to clear our 37’s. also, please note that depending on how long your shocks are, you will most likely still need to install a y-pipe adapter.

  3. Grandpa jeep May 7th, 2012 8:44 pm

    Im waiting for Evo to release there new bolt on king coil overs…meanwhile I am going to get the drive line I dont know If I should get the 1310 or 1350 because, I have a 6spd 2012 and Im going to run 37s. Their site says the 1310 is for 3″ lift and up to 33s..

  4. dave May 8th, 2012 3:29 pm

    Does this apply for 2010 auto jk unlimited’s as well? I know going anywhere above 2.5″ requires a new front ds. Would you recommend this for a 2010 with 3 or 3.5″ lift?

    Thanks!

  5. Bux May 9th, 2012 9:46 am

    What is recommended for a Manual Transmission, just a longer shaft? Any suggestions on what to look at?

  6. wayoflife May 9th, 2012 11:02 am

    if you plan on playing hard with your jeep, i would recommend 1350 with 37″ tires.

  7. wayoflife May 9th, 2012 11:03 am

    on a 2010, the setup is different but, being that you have an auto, yes, you will definitely want an aftermarket drive shaft if you run 3″ of lift or more.

  8. wayoflife May 9th, 2012 11:04 am

    on a 2012, the problem is the same - you will want an aftermarket shaft.

  9. DA RUNT June 18th, 2012 11:28 pm

    Have a 12 2dr. Rubicon 6spd. and just ordered the RK 2.5 max travel system, bilstein 5100’s and a front J.E. Reel 1350 drive shaft. Will I need anything else to clear the exhaust? And should I change the rear drive shaft also? Thanks

  10. wayoflife June 19th, 2012 10:33 am

    you shouldn’t need anything else to clear the exhaust and yes, i would recommend getting a rear shaft

  11. DA RUNT June 19th, 2012 4:47 pm

    Thanks Eddie, Ordered the rear. Now just have to wait 5 weeks til it’s delivered

  12. Johnboyu July 3rd, 2012 1:45 am

    Quick question! I plan on getting a ‘12 Sport- Manual. If I want to put some 33’s would I need a lift? If so, would you recommend 2.5″ or 3″? (I don’t plan on doing any rockcrawling or any hardcore upper-tier offroading, don’t know if that changes anything.) I would like to add a Flowmaster 40 or Super 44 series.
    So now my question: For all of this to take place, what would be needed to change on the vehicle, and what do you recommend?

    Thanks in advance,
    -John

  13. wayoflife July 3rd, 2012 11:24 am

    you can run 33’s stock with some minor rubbing and a leveling kit would solve that.

  14. Sean July 9th, 2012 6:32 am

    Hey I have 08 jk 2door manual 6 speed I am going to put either a 3inch or 2.5 lift with 35s any recommendations to ensure the uni joints and would you recommend the 1350 shafts.

  15. wayoflife July 9th, 2012 2:38 pm

    you do not need to address your front driveshaft on a 08 with a 6-speed. you will however want to address your rear drive shaft with 3″ of lift or more. how big of a tire are you hoping to run?

  16. Chris August 6th, 2012 2:42 pm

    I have 12 JK 4dr manual I am getting a 3″ teraflex suspension lift and 35″ tires. The jeep shop that is installing the lift says Chrysler makes them put limiting straps on for the rubbing. Is there a driveshaft a dealer can get that will solve the problem without the straps?

  17. wes August 28th, 2012 4:59 pm

    my 08 jku is using a 1310 coast shaft. no issues yet. I was looking for 1350’s but I found that you could get the rear shaft with 2 1350’s but the front had a 1350 and a 1310 joint. so Unless things changed that you can get full 1350’s then why do it. your drivetrain is only as strong as your weakest link. so I went all 1310’s.

    if all 1350’s are available post it up. thanks.

  18. Garen September 13th, 2012 12:12 am

    thinking about a 3.5 RockKrawler lift on a 2012 Jeep JKUR with manual transmission.

    Can you tell me if I need the driveshaft along with any other modifications I’ll need other than the lift kit?

    muchos gracias,

    -G

  19. wayoflife September 14th, 2012 10:01 am

    being that you have a 4-door, you can get away with the rear factory shaft. up front, it makes no difference if you have an auto or manual on a 2012-up. you will need a new front shaft.

  20. Black Pearl October 8th, 2012 10:12 am

    2dr 2012 running 35’s w/ 3.25 suspension. Getting new Front drive shaft to accommodate the steep angle from output joint. Any other necessary mods, to keep her running well? upgrade gears from 3.73 to 3.93?

  21. wayoflife October 8th, 2012 11:03 am

    being that you have a 2-door, you will need to replace your rear shaft sooner than later as well. adjustable rear upper control arms will be needed to set your pinion angle.

  22. Tony October 8th, 2012 11:21 am

    Hi Eddie,
    I have a 2012 wrangler, I want to put a 2″ lift and 33″ tires, on stock 18’s. Do I need to run 1-1/2″ spacers to keep from rubbing on ball joints? and will this cause any any drive line issues? also, I am running 3:21 gear :(.

    Thank you
    Tony

  23. mike October 12th, 2012 9:23 am

    there is a company out there that makes an exhaust flange spacer that moves the exhaust back alittle so the stock dirveshaft clears with bigger lifts.

  24. mike October 12th, 2012 9:26 am

    zone offroad offers the flange spacers to move the exhaust back some. seen it on youtube on one of their jk builds

  25. wayoflife October 12th, 2012 12:05 pm

    there are companies that make them and, while it will help prevent your drive shaft from making contact with the exhaust cross over, it will do nothing to prevent the eventual failure of your cv boot at the output shaft due to the extreme angle placed on it after lifting a jeep.

  26. William October 12th, 2012 1:50 pm

    Is this needed for the 2013 Rubicon Auto’s as well. Looking to add the 1.5 TF Leveling Kit with Trimmed Fenders to clear 315/76R16…..I think this will work, but not be as flexible as a full 2.5 RK Stock Mod lift, but should keep the driveshaft away from the Exhaust and not bind up the Auto with the steep angles as well….And, the stock Rubicon shocks will limit some of the down travel, so it should all work without any extra mods, correct?

    Thanks, William

  27. Perkalater79 October 21st, 2012 11:12 pm

    Thanks for sharing this great info. Very helpful. Wondering if you can help me confirm my next build phase. :)

    I have a 4d 2012 JKU Rubicon.

    Current build:
    - 295/70 17 Nitto Terra Grappler AT (~33.4″)
    - 17×8.5 AEV Classic 5 Hole wheels w/ 4.7″ backspacing
    - Bushwacker flat fenders
    - Hanson front & rear bumpers w/ Warn XD 9000i winch on the front
    - 1.5″ spring spacer on the front to level it out

    I’d like to get 35s next, but need as minimal of a lift as possible! My wife is short and has put her foot down on that one since it’s our primary family vehicle.

    At full flex, w/ 1 wheel off the ground, I have about 1/8″ between my tires and the fender in the rear wheel well. The front has plenty space.

    I’m thinking about going up ~1″ from where I am right now.
    - Front current has 1.5″… so I’ll got w/ 2.5″ spacer (max w/out further mods - right?)
    - Stock rear = .75″ spacer right? … so I need 1.75″? Thinking about going with 2″.
    - add 2″ to rear bump stops

    It sits almost perfectly level right now. I’d be happy w/ 1/4″ less between the front and rear.

    Question…

    1) Am I crazy to think 35s will fit without rubbing at all front or rear… a full flex/lock?
    2) Do you think I’ll be OK with the drive front & rear drive shafts and the exhaust cross-over?

    I’d greatly appreciate your input.

    Thanks!!
    Grant

  28. Perkalater79 October 21st, 2012 11:12 pm

    PS…. I have the 6 speed manual!

  29. Julio Perez October 23rd, 2012 9:08 pm

    Does this write up applies to a 2007 JK Wrangler X with a 3.5 Rock Krawler kit and 35″ tires? In other words; do I need to change the driveshafts? Thanks in advance!

  30. wayoflife October 24th, 2012 10:34 am

    no, it only applies to a 2012-up. if you have a 6-speed, you will not need a new drive shaft or need to address your exhaust on your 07. if you have an auto, you will need to replace your front driveshaft but, not because of the exhaust but rather, the factory unit will get damaged on your transmission and skid plate. if you have a 2-door, you will eventually need a rear shaft as well with as much lift as you have. you will need new rear adjustable control arms to dial in your pinion angle too.

  31. julio perez October 24th, 2012 1:21 pm

    Thanks for the clarification! I have a 2 door, 6 speed, next gen dana 44 hd rear axle. The lift kit came with adjustable lower control arms. Should I get the RK upper control arms and not worry about the driveshaft? Lastly, if I have to get a driveshaft; which one would you recommend? Once again, thank you fo the expert advice! Julio!

  32. wayoflife October 24th, 2012 1:29 pm

    being that you have a 6-speed, you should be fine up front. being that you have a 2-door, i would recommend that you save up for a rear shaft as you will need to replace it sooner than later. rear upper arms will be needed and the rk ones should be fine. as far as shafts go, i personally like je reel or coast as they made well and come with neapco or spicer u-joints. other popular brands use cheap chinese joints unless you request to upgrade them.

  33. wayoflife October 25th, 2012 12:54 am

    Perkalater79, trim your fenders or install a set of flat fenders. you can get on 35’s that way without adding any more lift.

  34. Julio Perez October 25th, 2012 11:24 pm

    Listened to your advice and ordered RK adjustable upper control arms. Question is; how do I adjust them for the proper pinion angle? Whats the proper angle?
    Thanks for the assistance!

    Julio

  35. wayoflife October 26th, 2012 11:09 am
  36. Julio Perez October 26th, 2012 11:13 am

    Awesome write up! It answers all of my questions! Thanks again!

    Julio

  37. Jeepinjim November 3rd, 2012 11:14 pm

    Hey I have a 2012 2 dr with an aev 2.5 suspension kit was wondering if I need to have exhaust spacers or a new ds in mine I’m also running 33 inch tires I do wheel it and I have sway bar discos was wondering if at full droop I’ll get any touching considering the aev website says I do not need to do any upgrades.

  38. wayoflife November 5th, 2012 2:19 am

    it depends on the shocks you run with the kit. if they are short enough, you won’t need to worry about it. if they are long enough to allow for more droop, you will.

  39. Jeepinjim November 5th, 2012 1:16 pm

    I’m running the ones that come with the kit the billstein 5100

  40. Jeepinjim November 5th, 2012 7:38 pm

    Just an FYI guys I lifted my 2012 up today sway bar discos were off and I was at full droop had an inch between the tire and the ground. I checked my driveshaft. I have about a quarter of an inch or a little more before the boot even touches the cross pipe for the exhaust like I said I’m running the aev 2.5 inch dualsport kit so at a full flex you prolly can’t go any higher but you should be safe with the 2.5 kit just some more info for some people. This is at full droop sway bar disconnected.

  41. Richard Cordeiro November 7th, 2012 10:46 am

    i have a 2010 2dr 6speed lifted 2inches now on 33’s i plan to go up to 6-7inchs of lift on 39-40s. i’ll be doing very mild trail riding. its going to be my mall crawler lol. what driveshafts would be best?

  42. wayoflife November 7th, 2012 11:32 am

    for a tire that size, 1350 is what i would recommend.

  43. roger vega December 3rd, 2012 11:11 am

    This has been very helpful,.. wish i would have came here sooner. I have a 2012 4dr wrangler with 3.5″ lift running on 35s. i snapped the factory front drive shaft off-roading this pasted weekend.What after market drive shaft do you recommend? thank you, RV

  44. wayoflife December 3rd, 2012 11:50 am

    Being that you’re only running 35’s, I would recommend a JE Reel 1310 shaft.

  45. roger vega December 3rd, 2012 2:41 pm

    Thank you!

  46. warrior December 20th, 2012 12:17 am

    I have a 2012 Sahara 2dr 6 speed that I’m planning to lift using the rancho 3inch trail system with the 9000xl shock what are your recommendation for my setup. I don’t go offroading much it more of a parking lot jeep.

    thanks

  47. Spoon January 30th, 2013 4:08 pm

    I have a 2011 JK Sport Automatic. I am looking to add a 4″ Lift with 35″ tires. Do I need the new DS or not?

  48. Spoon January 30th, 2013 4:26 pm

    Sorry, 4 DR Unlimted

  49. wayoflife January 30th, 2013 5:32 pm

    You’ll want to replace your front shaft.

  50. Tyler March 26th, 2013 12:09 am

    Hey i just bought a 13 wrangler unlimited sport! which is obviously a 4 door! i am looking at a 2.5in tr lift or a 3in tr! i wanna run 35s. what should i look to do for drive shaft?

  51. wayoflife March 26th, 2013 8:04 am

    You’ll just want a 1310 shaft and I would highly recommend that you get a J.E Reel one that comes with spicer or Neapco u-joints. Don’t settle for popular brands that only offer cheap Chinese u-joints.

  52. Paul April 7th, 2013 7:00 am

    I have a 2007 4dr JK. I’m moving up from 35’s to 37’s (still 12.50 wide) on a Clayton 4.5″ long arm lift. I have a Coast 1310 in the front, but still have the OEM rear driveshaft. I get the sense that I could get by without replacing the rear, but I’d rather be safe than sorry. Should I go ahead and replace the rear with a 1310 now so I decrease my chances of breaking something in the future? Also, would I use a CTM joint? And is trussing the rear a good idea? I have a Prorock 44 with RCVs up front, and a 35 spline 44 in the rear. Thanks!

  53. wayoflife April 9th, 2013 10:07 am

    Technically, the factory shaft is stronger than a 1310. I would just run it until it breaks or needs to be replaced and, when you do, I would get a 1350 shaft. CTM’s could be used but, I wouldn’t bother on a drive shaft. Regarding a truss, what I can tell you is that I have seen more axles bent BECAUSE they got trussed than not.

  54. Paul April 10th, 2013 8:34 am

    Thanks!

  55. Dustin L July 28th, 2013 1:05 pm

    I need some help.. I know NOTHING about jeeps. I have a two door 2012 rubicon and I’m gonna have it lifted ..I want it lifted atleast 6 inches for the look and to be taller than my buddies jeep , I’m getting 37″ tires and 20″ rims … BDS seams to be the way to go,”from what i have read online” .. So im planing to use there 5.5 in long arm suspension lift and go with a 1 in body lift. In addition To lifting it …What ALL will i need to replace on my jeep to make it last for years to come? Front and back drive shaft .. Re gear it .. And ??? Is that all .. And what should I re gear it to and what brand to you recomind . I’m not gonna be doing anything more that taking it to the beach and back road mudding.. Thank you for your help..

  56. Lovey74 August 1st, 2013 12:23 pm

    Just installed a 3″ Teraflex 8 arm kit. I plan to put on a Tom Woods 1310 on my 2013 JKUR. Will I need the Y-pipe spacers or a new Y pipe for it or will the 1310 clear at full droop?
    Thanks!

  57. Mike August 2nd, 2013 2:43 pm

    I have a 2013 jk 4 door auto. I see people saying that they have a 3.5″ lift and use the factory driveshaft. Is it ok to do that if I’m not taking it off road?

  58. wayoflife August 4th, 2013 2:55 pm

    The rear shaft will be fine. The front shaft will wear out at the CV joints sooner than later. If you go off roading, you will damage your front shaft.

  59. wayoflife August 4th, 2013 2:56 pm

    Your new shaft will clear the exhaust cross over but, I might recommend a different shaft than Tom Woods. If you do get one, just make sure to upgrade the u-joints to a set of spicer or neapco. The Chinese ones he uses standard are junk.

  60. James Orban September 10th, 2013 9:41 pm

    I’m thinking about doing a 3.5 lift on my 2012 jk sport manual. Would the upgraded front drive-shaft still fix this problem or will I need the Y-pipe? Also, will I need a new rear drive-shaft?

  61. Reece October 22nd, 2013 3:34 pm

    Hey,

    I’ve got a 2012 JK Sport Unlimited manual trans. Upgrading to 4″ lift with 37’s. I’m also upgrading to a dual stabilizer setup. Do I need to replace any of the factory drive shafts for this? Also are there any other parts that need to be addressed other than the exhaust extention? It’s my daily driver so i’m not doing too much crazy off roading but I don’t want to be snapping parts if i do decide to try something in the future…. Thanks!

  62. Mike Nyert October 31st, 2013 5:04 am

    I have the 2013 unlimited rubicon 10th anniversary and I plan to install 4″ TF Long Arm Lift, upgrading to 1350 drive shafts for front and rear. I also plan to regear to 5.13 and put on 37’s. In addition thinking about adding 4″ Speed Bumps. This is the automatic transmission so do you see if I am missing anything?

  63. Mike Nyert November 1st, 2013 11:56 am

    I also forgot to mention that I will be doing a lot of off roaring. I have joined Jeep Jamboree USA and plan to attend 6 or more of their events per year. I am also close to an off road (Rock) area where I will doing a lot of driving.

  64. Archbored3 November 4th, 2013 9:58 pm

    Should I be concerned about driveshafts on a 2012 jku sport auto tran. with a 2.5″ teraflex budget boost? Would that 2.5″ put the Driveshafts at their limits and affect reliability?

  65. wayoflife November 9th, 2013 12:04 pm

    It would ONLY if you got shocks with your kit that allow for too much droop. If you got your kit with shock extensions, you will be fine.

  66. brent November 10th, 2013 6:55 am

    I have a 2010 sport 2dr automatic if i wanted the rubicon express 3.5″ lift will i need a new ds? and what other parts would i need that dont come with the kit?

  67. wayoflife November 21st, 2013 9:14 pm

    Yes. If the kit doesn’t already come with them, you will need adjustable rear upper control arms so that you can set your pinion angle.

  68. Patrick J January 21st, 2014 3:14 pm

    Hello,

    I am in a pickle. I have the budget for a 2.5″ TF Coil lift with shock adapters. I plan on doing little to no wheeling at all (I like the look), I plan on running 35’s on my ‘13 2 Door Auto. If I primarily drive highway and city streets, will I need the DS? Or should I stick with the 2.5″ BB. The Coil lift gives more lift, but I’d like to avoid buying a new DS.

    Thanks!

  69. tom February 4th, 2014 4:51 pm

    Hi,
    I purchased a 1998 jeep tj as my new project vehicle and want to run a 3in lift kit on it with 37s, can you help me determine what I’ll need to do to keep it running in top shape?

    Thanks

  70. Jeremy S February 12th, 2014 7:16 pm

    I have a -12 Wrangler JKU and am installing a Rubicon Express 2.5″ suspension lift with monotube shocks on 33″ Nitto Terra Grapplers. Do I need a new DS for this??

  71. wayoflife February 19th, 2014 1:16 am

    Depends on if the shocks are long enough to give you enough droop to cause your factory shaft to make contact with the exhaust cross over.

  72. wayoflife February 19th, 2014 1:17 am

    Hi Tom, I might recommend you asking this question over on http://www.WAYLIFE.com. This is our forum and you’ll find a lot more people who can assist you with your TJ.

  73. Doc March 4th, 2014 6:37 am

    Have a 2012, 2 door jk with 2 1/2 lift. It has light spring pkg *BUT*! I’ve ordered the HD springs 19s front, 60s rear for it. Will this raise it to where I will need mods other than shocks? Was setting up for towing. Was told 100 different stories . 1/4-1/2 lift, over an inch blah blah, which is right? And will I have to change a lot of stuff. Not worth the headache if that’s the case. Thx

  74. Doc March 4th, 2014 6:41 am

    Btw, 2 1/2 lift is “spacers only” kit with longer Bilstein shocks added. Factory springs are 14s in front. Can’t remember rears off hand right now. Thx again

  75. wayoflife March 8th, 2014 11:12 am

    You can run a spacer lift with factory shocks and shock adapters. If you do this, you will not have to address your front drive shaft. If you install new longer shocks that allow for too much droop, you will need to change out your front drive shaft.

  76. ben h March 12th, 2014 12:17 am

    Okay i need help . I have 2010 jk 4 door sport unlimtied . Im running a 4 ” tera flex long arm kit been running 37×13.5×17 tires on it pretty much since day one on built stock axle lol. I just bought the new prorock 80 for the rear and 60 up front i want to run 40×13.5×17 on it but ive already blow threw a transmission with 37 does any one daily drive with 40 or have transmission problems with 40 or is there anything i can do to beef it up .. this is kinda off topic subject cant find any info on it . So if any one could answer this for me would be awesome thanks ben .

  77. Torrey W March 26th, 2014 10:59 pm

    So I have a 2010 4dr jk with the 6 speed manual tranny and I am looking to put a 4in suspension lift in it. Looking to run 35s or 37in tires. Would I need to upgrade my front and rear drive shafts to accommodate the lift?
    Also any recommendations on a lift kit? Should I go Long arm? short arm? It is my DD, but I like to hit the trails in it as well.

  78. Dyandra April 8th, 2014 3:05 pm

    I just had my 2000 jeep cherokee sport lifted 4.5 inches. Is there any reason why the front looks a lot more lifted than the back or is this normal?

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