Jeep JK Wrangler 2.5″ Budget Boost
Installation Write-Up

Thanks to the wide open fender design that the Jeep JK Wrangler has, you can pretty much run a 33″ tires bone stock and get up on a set of 35″ tires with very little effort. Of course, the easiest and most cost effective way to get the extra clearance you need to run them is to install a 2.5″ coil spacer lift. More commonly known as a budget boost, coil spacers are cylindrical blocks that are made of a polymer or sometimes steel and they are designed to sit on top of your factory coils to give you as much lift as they are tall. When installed with a set of shock adapters, you will effectively have a small lift that will not change the quality of your ride and do it all for about $350. This write-up will give you a general idea just how easy it is to install a budget boost on your Jeep JK Wrangler.

Jeep JK Wrangler 2.5″ Budget Boost Installation Write-Up


  1. Hi Eddie,
    Grate Write-up.
    I’m looking to get a wheel spacers for a JK.
    Can you tell me if a solid steel from Teraflex is stronger the the aluminum one offered by Spidertrex?

    Thanks for your help.

  2. eddie,
    the spacers needed to run stock wheels are they just the 5×5″
    1 1/4 spacer that it seems everyone carries or does it have to be
    wider to run stock?

    Thank you

  3. Ron, I have never run steel spacers before but I have aluminum like the kind Spidertrax makes and can tell you that they are very strong and I never had any problems with mine while I was running them on my TJ.

    xmotox, the spacers are actually 1.5″ thick as anything less will require some grinding of your factory wheel studs. You need less back spacing in order to run wider tires so yes, they will make your stance widers.


  4. I’ve decided to go with this budget boost since my JK will remain my daily driver. I also plan to add a 10,000# winch, but am having trouble deciding between an expensive Warn mounting plate for the the factory front bumper ($300) or to spend a little more ($550~800) and replace the bumper.

    I’ve read a lot of great information on here, and it seems the weight of just the Warn mounting plate (@ 50 lbs) and a winch (@ 100 lbs) is causing a little sag in the front…and this is on Rubicons with the upgraded shocks…I have a 2008 JK 4dr Sahara.

    How much of a sag are we talking about on a Rubicon versus a Sahara?

    Would a 3/4″ leveling spacer be appropriate to adjust for 150 lbs? What about additional weight if I decide to replace the bumper too? Would it be better if I replaced the front shocks with something a little longer to offset this instead of combining the shock extension from the budget boost with the leveling spacer?

  5. What I can tell you is that with the addition of a heavy duty steel bumper and WARN Power Plant, you will see about 3/4″ of sag. So, if you just get the winch plate and winch, I would guess that you would only need about 1/2″ spacers.


  6. I have a 2008 JK 4wd 4dr Sahara and still contemplating this budget boost.

    I have been looking at several lift kits from 2.5″ ~ 4″. I am looking to fit 35″ tires on aftermarket rims which appears to be no problem on the new JKs (considering all backspacing issues and spacers). My only concern with a lift is the rear axle shifting off-center with a lift over 2″. I don’t know if this should be addressed with a track bar relocation bracket, an adjustable track bar, adjustable track bar links, etc.

    I have been trying to figure out what exactly comes in the Teraflex 2.5″ Budget Boost, Full Traction 3″ Economy, Pro Comp Stage 1 4″, and Superlift 4″. I want to keep the total cost under $650.

    Originally, I was sold on the Teraflex 2.5″ Budget Boost, but if I need to buy an adjustable track bar (or other option) for $200, then I am almost in the range of the other 3 options above which include more items to help adjust the geometry. 4″ lift also sounds preferable for about the same price, BUT it also begins to concern me with driveshaft angles. I am still leaning towards the budget boost in hopes that one $200 item will be enough to address the re-centering of the rear axle.

    What would you suggest as the best way to deal with the re-centering of the rear axle and keeping the geometry correct all around?

  7. Clint, the shift you will see on both axles (not just the rear) with this budget boost is quite literally about 1/8″… maybe 1/4″ tops. It is insignificant and will not be a problem that needs to be corrected with an adjustable track bar or even relocation bracket. In fact, installing either (depending on make) could actually cause your axle to shift the other direction as some track bars have a minimum lenght that is too long or a relocation bracket designed for a lesser/taller lift. Either way, not having one really shouldn’t be your deciding factor here.


  8. No problem. I wheel with a couple of guys who have had this kit on for about a year now and have not had any problems what so ever even without any track bar relocation brackets.


  9. I’m now decided on this kit (final answer…YES). I was thinking to upgrade to 35″ tires from my factory 32″, but am now re-thinking that as I don’t want to buy a speedo recalibration device. Most of my driving will be dirt, mud, and very small stream ‘puddles’. I plan to keep my factory Sahara all terrains, so would like something more aggressive but not awful on the highway. I’m looking at wheels in the 15-17″ range, and I’d like to get an inch or two wider than the factory 255’s.

    What do you suggest as a good 32″ tire that will be minimal speedo effects?

  10. On step 42) above, you describe using the rear brake line extensions included in the kit, but in the ‘What you will get’ list, they aren’t listed. Are brake line extension brackets included? Rear and Front brackets?

    Thanks again!

  11. Yes, they are included and them not being in the list was just a mistake on my behalf.  As far as tires go, 255 pretty much equals a 32″ tire and so I would recommend that you get a 33″ tire instead as they would make a great fit.  As far as what kind to get, I really like the new Pro Comp Xtreme A/T’s if your looking for a good all around tire.  If you are looking for a good mudder, I really like Toyo M/T’s but the Pro Comp Xterem M/T’s work great too.


  12. WOL-

    Do you have that PDF that Greg made of this write up? I’m looking to do the install on my 4-door Rubicon this weekend and I think that it would be a great help. BTW the write up is great!

  13. Eddie-

    Just did my install this weekend. Took a little longer than expected but it was worth it. At first I did not install the rear sway bar links on the inside of the axle mount. I went out to test drive my rubicon and noticed a clicking noise coming from the rear. Then I remembered the comment about needing to move the link to the inside of the axle mount. I moved it but the link seems to now be hitting the mounting bracket. Do I also need to move the upper mount to the inside? It just seems like it does not have a lot ability to rotate.


  14. I just installed my lift on my 2008 on Friday and have the same problem. The new rear links measure 12.5″, or nearly 4″ longer than the originals. Because of this, it seems that the upper sway bar bolt head rubs on the inside of the wheel rim/edge when the vehicle is tilted at the slightest. I was getting a lot of noise when I first drove it around the block…especially turning to the right. Mine seems to only be rubbing on the driver side, but there isn’t much clearance on the passenger side either.

    The lift was only 2.5″, so it seems that if these sway bar links were shorter, they would clear the wheel better.

    I thought about moving the link to the inside of both the axle mount and the sway bar, but it will not fit and move freely on the axle mount end.

    Do these new kits include sway bar links that are overly long (14″ eye to eye)? Could this be a packing mistake by Teraflex?

    How long are the adjustable links now on the market? Would it be better to get wheel spacers or adjustable links to help clear the wheels?

    I took a couple pictures of the clearance problem if you’d like to add them for a visual.

  15. Eddie-

    I thought that I read that I could get away without the spacers if I mounted the links on the inside. Is this not the case? Do I NEED to get the 1.5″ spacers?


  16. Clint, I did not get new links with my kit so I don’t know how long the new ones are supposed to be but what you have does sound a bit long. Perhaps you should contact TeraFlex to see if they shipped out the right ones.

    Frank, apparently, this is no longer the case or, at least if you do not redrill the mounting holes on your axle mount a bit higher up.


  17. I saw this on one of the threads last night. So if I redrill the mounting holes up about 3/4″ I should be okay? I was just affraid that drilling a new hole would weaking the mounting point where it may break while on the trail.

  18. Last question…

    If I go up to 35″ tires (which I plan on doing in the future), I will have to install the wheel spacers though right?

  19. hello Eddie

    i wanted first to thank you for all what your doing to help us transforme our jeep!
    i have a jeep rubicon unlimited and i want to install a 35″tire but keep the original wheels(17×7,5) that the factury give, as i saw on the picture uper.
    do you think its possible ?
    if yes what are the references so that i can order the tire.

    ps:sorry my english is not good and i am extremely new in jeep world!

    thank you


  20. I will be going to 35″ tires also, and probably 12.5 wide. I went ahead and ordered some wheel spacers so that I could run my stock wheels/tires with the sway bar links on the original outside position, and also so that I will have no worries when I get the new wheels tires.

    I am still waiting to hear back from Teraflex on my question concerning the length of the sway bar links, but will post that info when I know more.

  21. Hi filali, yes, you can keep your factory wheels but you will need to install wheel spacers like the kind Spidertrax makes. They will reduce your back spacing and make it possible for your 35″ tires to fit without any problems.

  22. Hi Eddie,

    I’m just about to install my 2.5″BB. I’m reading everything that I could before doing the job. Only questions is that with the new Terraflex, they also sent quick disconnect sway bar. I have a Rubicon 2007 with factory sway bar disconnect, do i have to install the ones sent with the kit??? Will the quick disconnect work even with 2.5″ lift???

    Thank you for your help,


  23. Are you sure they are disconnects and not just longer rear links? If they really are disconnects, you do not want to install them as your Rubicon will not need them.


  24. Good day Eddie,
    Have a ’07 Sahara and a new 2.5″bb ready to install… From what I have read, the stock 18″ wheels and tires will rub w/o spacers… Is that correct? Would like to crank it out and get on the trail but if I need the spacers, better obtain the sets before the axles are unbolted…..
    THKS man,

  25. This is the response I got from Teraflex:

    “Hi Clint, what tire wheel combination are you running. We have found that some factory tire wheel combinations will rub with a 2.5′ BB and some will clear. We recommend wheel spacers with factory rims. We have also found that the lower rear swat bar link mounting tab is smaller on some models, and there is very little clearance for the aftermarket link. If you hold the link at an angle and insert the bolt through the link and the tab at a
    slight angle, then start the nut, the link will pull into place. The rear links are designed to work with a 2.5″ to 4″ lift. If you have any other questions feel free to contact me, Thanks Doug.”

    I still disagree with attaching the sway bar link to the inside of the axle mount. It is a very tight fit, and I don’t see much room for it to move without hitting the axle…although it would be fine for on-road driving.

    I did install my wheel spacers yesterday, so I now have 1.5″+ clearance on each side. With new wheels with adjusted offset and new tires, this clearance will only increase. I will just have to watch as the ‘rub’ I was getting was against the 18″ wheel…with smaller diameter wheels, a rub would be against rubber, but 2″+ of clearance after spacers and better wheel offset should be more than enough.

    Keep up the great site. Eddie, you’ve got a JK’rs dream site started here. And everyone else, all our postings are what help make this so useful. KEEP IT GOING!

  26. I have already installed my BB. I did not have any issues with my install and it rides great- I did need wheel spacers because of the rear right wheel was rubbing slightly on turns with passengers. Your install tips was right on the money and thanks. The issue I have now is that my front end sags from the Warn winch and bumper. I see that you explained where to place the spacer in one of your responses. Did you have any issues putting the spacer upon a spacer and what would you recommend for a spacer. I’m not sure if its worth putting them on or not.

    Thanks again.

  27. Chuck, you can pretty much place the additional spacer where ever you want but I would put it in between the tall spacer and rubber isolator. That way it will be hidden from view once installed. No problems using both.


  28. I want to run 35″ tires on this 2.5″ BB lift. Do you think adding a 1″ Body Lift will comprimise anything that the TeraFlex 2.5″ lift did by way of smooth driving on and off road? I am completely new to Jeeps and 4x4ing in general. Thank you for your time.

  29. A body lift will do just that, lift the body up off the frame 1″ and will not have any effect on your ride as it has nothing to do with your suspension.


  30. First, thanks for the fantastic write up. I have a question about sway bar end links and an extra 3/4″ hockey puck. I’m about to install a BDS 2″ Budget Boost on an 08 Rubicon so do I need new extended sway bar links for the rear and put the ones out back up front? Also would it be ok to place the 3/4″ spacer in-between the BDS spacer up front to eliminate the rake? Again thanks for the write up.

  31. yes, it would be okay to stack an extra spacer in between your BB to help eliminate your rake but IHMO, 3/4″ is too much especially if you do not have a heavy aftermarket bumper and winch. that is unless you’d rather have your jeep sitting a bit nose up. also, i would be cautious about using a hockey puck to do this as it will not be the same diameter as the rubber isolator. last but not least, regarding the sway bar links, IF you do decide to install 3/4″ spacers on top of your 2″ BB, you will want to get extended links for the rear and install the factory rear up front.


  32. WOL,
    awesome write up. I have three
    questions before I start my install of the 2.5BB.

    1. I have wrangler x and I got the new sway bar links. Can I still use them even though its not a Rubicon ?

    2. Is the kit supposed to come with new bolts for the rear shock extensions? I got the extensions but no appearant bolts that will work.

    3. How do I install the rear trac bar bracket that came with my kit?



  33. Eddie
    I installed the budget boost several months ago. I am very happy with it but would like to find out the best way to raise the front to be level with the rear.

  34. Stacking a 1/2″ coil spacer up front should do the trick. If you go more, your Jeep might look a bit nose up especially once you load it up.

  35. Hi Sam,
    1. Yes, but you will need wheel spacers or aftermarket wheels with less back spacing in order to clear them in the rear.

    2. Yes – if you did not get them, you need to contact your vendor or TeraFlex as they are missing.

    3. Unfortunately, I do not know for sure as I did not have one to install. However, you might want to check the Full Tracion 3″ Economy lift write-up as it has an installation for one and it might be the same.


  36. Eddie I have a 2.5 BB and flexed it a little then looked under my jeep and noticed that I almost pulled my rear brake line off with the blot from the rear sway bar. do you know if anyone else has had this problem and what would you suggest to try?


  37. is it safe to assume that you do not have an adjustable track bar or track bar relocation bracket? if so, the axle shift you will see will be just enough to cause this problem. the simple solution to it is to just bend the brackets inward a bit. 🙂

  38. Hi Eddie,

    Great stuff! You may have answered this a bunch a times already, but I got my 2.5″ budget boost today and there is a sticker on the box saying that I must get wheel spacers if I plan on using my stock wheels. I looked around at wheel spacers and the various websites indicate that the spacers are just for folks who want larger tires…they don’t really talk about needing them for lifts alone. From reading the questions/answers here, it appears that Teraflex may have modified the kit to include some new parts. Is that why the spacers are now necessary? Are they really necessary if I’m staying with stock wheels and tires on my Wrangler X? Did you need them when you were riding around on your stock wheels?


  39. the spacers are needed if you plan on installing the new rear sway bar links that come with the kit as the links will make contact with your wheels/tire side walls. since you have an x, i would recommend NOT installing the new links and you will be just fine.

  40. Hi,

    Great site , thanks for making it available.
    Getting ready to start installation of my new 2.5bb on my 2008 Rubicon 2 dr and have some questions. I am going to be staying with the stock wheels and tires for the foreseeable future and would like to keep them as far under the fender flares as possible. Therefore I would like to not use wheel spacers. Would buying a new set of stock rear swaybar connectors from my local Jeep dealer for the front swaybar installation and keep the existing swaybar connectors on the rear cure the clearance problems with the swaybar connectors? Also would it be better to not use the trackbar relocator. It would seem that if both axles shift 1/8 ” to 1/4″ then using the relocator on the rear and recentering it and leaving the front axle shifted therefore no longer having the axles parrelel would be worse than not using the relocator at all.
    Reading through your early threads it appears that you did not get therefore did not change swaybar connectors or use the trackbar relocator and apparently had no problems , did you use wheel spacers when you were still running stock wheels and tires?
    If staying with stock swaybar connectors would I still install them on the outsides of the swaybar and frame mount?



  41. hi chas, yes, i would think if you picked up a set of factory rear links to use in the rear, that would be an acceptable solution. i would install the track bar relocation brackets as they will help recenter your axles and insure you won’t have any rubbing issues with the rear links. if you use the factory links, you will not need to run wheel spacers.


  42. Hey Eddie,

    First of all, your website is great and has helped out tremendously in deciding what to do with my JK. I have a few questions concerning the Budget Boost 2.5in lift. I have read some of the posts above and I am still a little bit unclear. I have a 2008 two door Wrangler X. I am planning on going up to 33in. BFgoodrich All-Terrains and using the stock rims. Do I need wheel spacers for 33’s with the stock rims or are 33’s not large enough to warrant spacers? I am a college student and gas prices alone are eating right through my wallet so I don’t want to spend an extra 250 dollars or so on spacers if I really do not need them. Also, will I need to install the new rear sway bar links on my X or is that only for Rubicons? Once again, thanks for all the help your website has provided. It is the best JK website I have been too so far.


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