Jeep JK Wrangler 2.5″ Budget Boost
Installation Write-Up


Thanks to the wide open fender design that the Jeep JK Wrangler has, you can pretty much run a 33″ tires bone stock and get up on a set of 35″ tires with very little effort. Of course, the easiest and most cost effective way to get the extra clearance you need to run them is to install a 2.5″ coil spacer lift. More commonly known as a budget boost, coil spacers are cylindrical blocks that are made of a polymer or sometimes steel and they are designed to sit on top of your factory coils to give you as much lift as they are tall. When installed with a set of shock adapters, you will effectively have a small lift that will not change the quality of your ride and do it all for about $350. This write-up will give you a general idea just how easy it is to install a budget boost on your Jeep JK Wrangler.

Jeep JK Wrangler 2.5″ Budget Boost Installation Write-Up

50 Comments

  1. LOL!! What you are feeling is normal. Unless you are using a set of bar pin eliminators, there will be some movement in the bushings.

    Eddie

  2. Thanks….I’m used to doing suspension work on hondas/acuras…and there is usually no movement whatsoever :D…

    Thanks again eddie

  3. You mention the use of (although not required) a longer set of sway bar links (or disconnects up front if you don’t have a Rubicon), front adjustable track bar and rear track bar relocation bracket. I saw the front adjustable track bar and rear track bar relocation bracket on the teraflex site but no longer set of sway bar links. Any idea where to pick those up? Estimate cost of the add-ons since I can not find them priced? (No Rubi here, just a plain X Unlimited) Thanks a bunch!

  4. Hey HatchetMan,
    Hmmm, I would think they sell them even though they are not on their website and I would imagine they wouldn’t be too expensive. I would try giving them a call or a vendor that carries TeraFlex products and ask them.

    Eddie

  5. Wow cool…always looking for cheap and easy! Question…if a guy was to do this 2.5″ lift, and stuff some 35″ tires on the stock rims under there…what width tire would I want to stick with in order to keep from rubbing? I’m talking on a Unlimited Rubicon now…THANKS!

    -Sam

  6. With the 2.5″ boost, do you know if it affects the factory warrenty? I’ve heard when you lift a vihicle it voids the warrenty. Do you know if this is true? And is there a difference in the factory suspinsons of the X, sahara, and rubicon?

  7. Hi Sam,
    If you’re planning on running 35″ tires on your factory wheels, you really should consider getting a set of 1.5″ wheel spacers as most of the 35″ tires I know of measure 12.50 in width or wider which is too much.

    Dustin,
    Lifting your Jeep alone will not void your warranty. Now, if you break a factory part that can be directly traced to the lift itself then that part will not be warrantied (i.e. if you damage a stock shock it will not be replaced).

    Eddie

  8. Howdy!

    Might want to get a cold one before reading this novel/email… BTW, do you know what impact 35″ tires have on the odo/speedo and ESP? Is it a reprogram or a part change on the 07?

    Had the TFlx 2.5 BB Lift with a BDS TrackBar relocation bracket installed (although, the kit did not, as listed on the box, come with the rear stock shock relocation hardware and so shocks had to be mounted in orig location (thus: NO hard WHEEL’n) until the ext hardware comes in. I had RubiconExpress longer braided steel brake lines installed too. Even with stock Rubi tires and wheels, lifting makes it look better to my eye. Who would’ve thunk that 2.5 inches would look so much taller.

    After the lift install,I drove home the long way and everything seemed to be in good order… that is, the same as stock. Curiously, there was more noticeable tread/road noise off of the stock tires… tires exposed/not corralled as much??? … or worse, some slight misalignment? My imagination?

    Still, I was really impressed that everything seemed so similar to stock as you have mentioned (my assessment too)…

    HOWEVER, the next morning I had AEV Argent Pintlers and 35″ Toyos installed and HEY, on the way home I notice some right-drift… no pulling (well maybe a little right pull under braking), not any more bump-steer than stock, but a little right-drift that, while not overwhelming, is noticeable… truly there… just enough to say DANG, it’s not perfect.!

    In what little road time I’ve put on it, I seem to, as mentioned in a jeepfan blog, want to hold the steering wheel ever-so-slightly to the left to counter the right-drift. It’s not crabbing and it’s pretty mild, but I want to be sure it isn’t something I have to live with or pay for in tire wear or worse down the road or that will spoil it for wifey when she drives it.

    Maybe, the ride home over intentional ruts and bumps in the road to “shake things loose” and/or the jacking up etc. for tire installation, tweaked the lift tech’s alignment. I’ll be having the lift tech look into this when I go back within the next week or so for my follow-up/check and we’ll see what we’ll see.

    To repeat, this wasn’t obvious to me until after the tire install, then it was immediately and still noticeable/obvious, although mild.

    Also, in addition to the drift-right condition, I now belong to the select group of lifted/big tire 4×4 ’07 Unlimiteds that have the over-active ESP thing going around on/off ramp curves. I was looking for it before the lift and after the lift and didn’t get it with the stock 32s, but it does happen now (ESP kicks in – braking? I think – and the “skidding vehicle” icon on the dash flashes until we straighten out)… not too bad if you’re prepared for it [which may NOT include wives taking it out without training πŸ™‚ ]

    Like you have mentioned to check, Eddie; I’m hoping it is as simple as the steering wheel, thus the steering inputs to ESP, being a little off-center and that by centering it up (again?… as you say, it might take a couple stabs at it.) might work… possibly a reflash of the ESP if the dealer is willing after the mods.

    So maybe the tires changed or added error to the wheel centering, or the action against the vehicle [jacking etc.] tweaked it or the alignment.

    PS
    There is/are a sensor(s) in the steering column (something called a CLOCKSPRING) that report (I’m guessing here: the steering wheel position/thus driver’s steering input?) to the ESP etc. So maybe if/when the steering wheel is off-center, mechanically the vehicle wants to go off center and maybe electronically it sends funky inputs to ESP on long big radius curves????

    The reason I know about the “clockspring” is that my rig had a lot-boy break a key off in the ignition and they tore the steering column down to fix it… afterward my “ESP” (not skidding icon) dash indicator warning came on and stayed on (and I think ESP was disabled.. but not sure) every time I started and drove it for a couple weeks before they replaced that “clockspring”.

    Thoughts??? advise?
    Regards,
    oldbob

  9. I just finished installing the teraflex 2.5″ budget boost on my 2 door rubi and wow what a nice kit, it really gives the Jeep a nice look even with the stock Rubi tires. Also I think they have changed the kit since when alot of you guys installed it. In addition to the parts mentioned in the directions on this site (which were very helpfull btw) I also recieved a pair of longer rear sway bar links. Once installed the stock rear sway bar links go up front to replace the short stock front links. Quite a genious idea although looks like its only with the new kits? so for anyone with short links I would recomend getting the longer rear sway bar links and put your stock links up front.

    Chris

  10. Hi Chris, yes, this is a new feature for this kit and for those of you who have Rubicon’s, I would highly recommend that you pick up these links. You can buy them from Northridge4x4 or directly from TeraFlex and they only cost $15.

  11. The kit has changed slightly since the writeup. Besides the addition of the sway bay links for the rear, the rear bump stop extensions have changed also.

    The frame-mounted rear bump stop extensions are angled on one end–this needs to face the front of the vehicle. If they’re installed facing the rear, the bump stop will make contact with a bolt well before the top bump stop touches the bottom.

    I hope this helps someone avoid the big gash in their bump stop extension like I now have. The irony is I took to a 4WD shop to have it done so it would be done right. They didn’t re-install the factory coil spacers either, which clearly listed, even in the hard-to-read/see TeraFlex instructions.

  12. Hi, I’ve already installed “Teraflex 2.5″ BB with Shocks” lift kit, and it’s kind of too late to ask…

    BUT, how are those Teraflex shocks that come with BB lift kit compare to stock Rubi shocks (red ones)? I believe the TF shocks are 9550 (VSS gas shocks).

    I was wondering I should have kept the Rubi shocks and got the adopters instead…

    The ride is basically the same. But, I was wondering how durable/strong those Teraflex shocks are… Are their shocks known to be good quality?

  13. Hi everyone, just has this installed Saturday, have the 35s ProComp Xtreme A/Ts on ProComp Wheels 17×8. One Question, when I turn all the way to the right or left the wheels rub the control arms, any suggestions???

  14. Hey man thanks for this write up!!! I just finished mine today and man, it looks sweet. =) There is no way I could have done it with the Teraflex instructions alone- they were a JOKE! WTF! Mine came with the new rear sway bar links- very nice. The Rubi looks a million time better now, gotta get me some bigger tires now. Much appreciated, thanks for the time and effort!

  15. Hey Bill, your tire is rubbing because your axle shifted over when you installed your lift. The only way to help this out is to install an adjustable front track bar. Or, you could always install a couple washers on the steer stops.

    Hey Dubya, I’m glad to hear my write-up was able to help you out πŸ™‚

    Eddie

  16. Eddie, I know you get this constantly, but thanks for the write-up! I’ve put 32″ BFG All Terrains on my 4-door JK. They look so much better than the stock tires. I know you mentioned the warranty above on June 12th, but I was wondering if you know any more detail about trouble with warranty work on a lifted vehicle. I only want to lift 2″ or 2.5″ to give a little more clearance with the new tires, although I realize it isn’t necessary. My service advisor told me that lifting Jeep would essentially void coverage on most of the powertrain components. He said that if something happens to the tranny, for example, the first thing any service department asks is, “Did you modify the vehicle with a lift?” And he said that the repairs would not be covered under the warranty.

    Can you shed a little more light on this for me?

    Thanks very much,
    Dave

  17. Hi Dave, in all honesty, I would find myself a different dealership to work on my Jeep. I broke the rear locker in my highly modified JK sitting on a 3″ lift and 35″ tires and had it replaced under warranty as the service advisor was able to determine that my lift, tires and or new gears were not the reason for it breaking. If your dealer will void any drive train work without even giving your Jeep a good look to see what the real cause your problem was, they’re a dealership to avoid. But, that’s just my 2Β’ and the experiences I have had.

    Eddie

  18. I just installed my Teraflex 2.5 BB on my 2 door X. I love it. Thanks for the great write up.

    Ty

  19. when you go up in size of tires frm say 30 to 33 do you need to buy a new sensoir or do they just do a flash to keep your speedo and odometer aqurate ?And if I add a new bumper front and rear to keep the 2.5 hight will I need to add spacers or can I just get a heaver shock that will give me the same as factory ride and matian the lift ?

  20. Hey Eddie,

    Does the Teraflex 2.5″ BB w/shocks come with twin tube shocks?

    Would you recommend the twin tube shocks or the mono shocks?

    And lastly, if you could get the Teraflex 2.5″ BB w/ twin tube shocks or the Rubicon Express 2″ BB w/mono shocks for the same price, which would you recommend?

    Thanks, Steve

  21. Hey SeaBee, when you install bigger tires, your speedometer will be off unless you have your computer calibrated to match the new size. The only problem is that your dealer can only calibrate your computer to match up to a 32″ tire. And, at the moment, there is no way to work around this. As far as adding bumpers go and a winch goes, they will cause your suspension to sag a bit but installing new shock will not change your ride height. To fix the slight sag, you will need to either stack spacers or get taller coils.

    Hey Steve, honestly, I’m not sure what kind of shocks they come with as I just got mine with shock extensions. However, if you could choose, I would highly recommend getting monotube nitro shocks as they typically proved a much better ride on and off the trail. As far as which kit I would go with, a budget boost is pretty much a budget boost and if you’re looking for a bit more height, I would go with the TeraFlex kit. Heck, if you have a Rubicon, I would still get this kit with the shock extensions as the factory Rubi shocks are really nice.

    Eddie

  22. Hi Eddie,

    Thanks for all the work you are doing with the site, and thanks for replying to my questions regarding the warranty and the statements made by my service writer. I have since installed this lift and took your advice to another member and installed the relocation bracket for the rear. The lift is awesome, and I honestly think my JK handles better than it did prior to installing the lift–less sway on and off the road. We took the JK to the Adirondacks last week for a week of wheeling and had a blast. I also added KC Slimlites with windshield mounts. It’s nothing like your rig, but I’m having a great time. I’ll put some pics on the forum, if that’s alright.

    Anyway, thanks for the advice, all your efforts with the site, and for your great write-ups. You have helped out tremendously in my decision making and in the installation process.

    Best regards,
    Dave

  23. Hi Dave, I’m really glad to know that I was able to help you out and that you are happy with your lift. Thanks for the feedback and if there’s anything I can do for you, please don’t hesitate to ask.

    Eddie

  24. wayoflife! Your the man for this write up! aha… i will be using it when i eventually install my 2.5 teraflex bb. The sway bar links need to be installed on the inside in the rear now correct? And then the old rear links move up front exactly how the old fronts were… correct? Im just trying to visualise this with out being under the jeep or looking at a picture.

    Also i bought some 285/70/17 BFG Mud Terrains that are going on my stock sahara 17’s. I believe that makes them 11.5 wide? Think ill have any issues with rubbing at full turn or getting the spare on my mount without spacers on either? When i install it i want to knock it all out at once =)

    I may even give in and get a relocation bracket and adj sways…

  25. ps. i didnt even think about this… the front would be done and lifted before i even get to the rear following your steps. How involved will it be to go back up front to install the rear links up there?

  26. Hi Jared, you only need to install the new rear links if you have a Rubicon and yes, if you still have factory wheels, you will need to install the links on the inside of the axle mount as the bolt head that attaches to the sway bar will make contact with your factory wheels.

    Regarding your new tires, you should be okay with them but yes, you may see some minor rubbing on the air dam at a full turn. Also, you shouldn’t have any problems mounting your spare.

    As far as installing your rear links up front goes, it is actually easier to install links in general with your Jeep on the ground so no, you won’t have any problems.

    Eddie

  27. Hi wayoflife,

    Thanks for the great website, articles, images and write-ups!

    Did you ever install the front spacers like you mentioned above, before you installed the larger lift? What are your comments/suggestions if you did?

  28. Hey xleatherneck, I upgraded my lift to a Full Traction 3″ Ultimate Lift and got HD front coils with it. They leveled out my Jeep nicely even with a heavy steel front bumper and WARN PowerPlant winch.

    Eddie

  29. Eddie, I have the JK Unlimited Rubicon. I want to lift it, but since my last jeep was a lifted YJ, I love my new ride. Since you have had both the 2.5 and 3 inch lifts, which gives the best ride. We tow it and use it mostly on fire trails, desert and mountain trails and about 50% of the time on the street. The wifey made me get the new jeep because she would’nt ride in the old one any more, boy was I smart, but I do love the ride and I want to keep the best of both worlds. Thanks, Rob

  30. Hi Rob, If you’re happy with the ride that your Rubicon offers now, I would recommend just getting the TeraFlex 2.5″ BD as with it, your ride will not change at all and it’s cheap. πŸ™‚

    Eddie

  31. Hey WOF, Wheres the best spot to buy the BB from Teraflex? Anyone have a good URL for online purchase? I have to get shipping to Canada as well.

    Hey WOF, thanks a lot for the write up on this, It’s answered a LOT of questions I’ve had!

  32. You can buy this kit from 4WD, Northridge4x4 or Quadratec. Just find and click on the banner to the right and you should get to where you want to be πŸ™‚

    Eddie

  33. Hey Eddie,
    I am planning to install my 2.5 BB on my new 08 Rubi this week, I live in San Clemente. A couple questions:

    you mentioned above to somone that if they where in so cal you would consider helping, San clemente close to where you live by chance??

    ANy more word on ESP problems? Know how to adjust the steering back anyways?

    Will I be able to get along alright without wheel spacers with bfg 35×12.5’s on stock rims?

    ALso any extra install steps on a rubi rather than your sahara?

    One more, know of any affordable jeep groups in so cal I should consider joining and can you recomend any trails?

    This has been a great source of info!! Thanks so much!

    ~iadventure

  34. Hey IADVENTURE, I live in Laguna Niguel and would love to help you get your lift installed. Just send me an email at: eddie@project-jk.com and we’ll set up a time to do it. πŸ™‚

    Regarding your other questions, I never had any ESP problems with the TeraFlex 2.5″ BB and would think you will be good to go as well. As far as running a 12.50 wide tire on stock rims go, you will need to get a set of 1.5″ wheel spacers to prevent any rubbing issues. BTW, I too have a Rubicon and not a Sahara and the only other step there you will have is the installation of the new longer rear sway bar links and the installation of the factory rear links up front.

    Now, as far as Jeep groups go, please join us on our runs. We go out 2-3 times a month with JK owners of all build sizes and skill levels and we’d love to have you come along. Check here for upcoming events:

    http://www.jk-forum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=45

    Please contact me by email and we’ll get you taken care of πŸ™‚
    Eddie

  35. Hey Eddie,
    I just installed my BB 2.5 lift yesterday. YOu had mentioned that you live in Laguna Niguel. Could I drop by to borrow your ACCU PRO to calibrate my 35in tires?
    Thanks,
    Troy

  36. Eddie,

    I installed a 2.5″ Terra Flex Suspension Lift with extended shocks on my 2007 4door Jeep. It is a X model not a rubicon. I kept my stock wheels and placed BFG AT/KO tiers that are 315/70/17 and they fit ok but when I turn all the way right or left they rub on the inside of the wheel against the front cross member bar can you tell me if you feel the 1″ Terra Flex spacers would help stop that problem

  37. Eddie, I have a JK sitting on 32s right now and I want to lift it for both clearance and appearance purposes. I was thinking of the 2.5 teraflex as you’ve installed but I was wondering if the 32 inch tires would look weird and/or not be efficient with that size lift. Should I just go with a smaller lift adn keep my 32s (which work fine for what I do) or go with 2.5 inch and bigger tires. Thanks!

  38. Hey Eddie, first off I’d like to say “Thanks” as I used your walkthrough on my laptop in the garage to install this lift by myself yesterday. I added a ProComp front adj track bar and the BDS relocation bracket for the rear. It took me a bit longer than the 4-5 hours generally given but it was fun.

    I wanted to comment on a couple of findings:

    First off (on the X model anyway) you do not have to disconnect the drive shaft. There is a bracket held by 2 bolts underneath that impedes the shaft from lowering past a certain point. It is easy to disconnect and allows for all of the clearance necessary.

    The other thing is that if the BDS rear trackbar bracket is used then the links cannot be “moved” to the insides because the passenger side link will hit it.

    Hope there is a way to extend this information to other users as the driveshaft alternative could save a lot of unnecessary work (I tried to disconnect it and had a heckuva time before looking for an alternative!). Thanks again. I’d never have tried this mod on my own without your write-up!

  39. Hey WOL, I’ve got a 4 door Rubi, and just had the BB installed. The garage that installed it for me said that they had to remove the rear sway bar, in order to prevent the bar from rubbing with my stock BFG 32’s. What shoudl I be going back and telling these guys. B/C without the swaybar in the rear my JK moves around on the road a lot. It’s not a huge difference but enough for me to express concern.

    Thanks WOL,
    killer write up as well.

  40. Hi JKFreek, you absolutely NEED the rear sway bar and links installed on your JK in order to keep it driving safely. If you cannot get the new longer links to install on the inside of the mounts, I would recommend that you just install your factory front and rear links back on your Jeep. On pavement, you will be just fine and off road, you should be fine for the most part as well. Trust me, I ran my JK like this for quite some time without any problems. However, if you can afford it, I would highly recommend that you either get new wheels with less back spacing or 1.5″ wheel spacers. This will give you the room you need to reinstall your new links.

    Eddie

  41. Sounds good. I’m new to the whole backspacing thing and what it means exactly. However in getting new wheels, would a wider wheel give it enough space? As for new longer links, what links would they be that would solve my problem with the stock wheels. I’d love to buy them I just need to know what ones to get. Its just the rear sway bar that is off, the front is still on.

    I’d love to be able to run the stock wheels, if theres an alternate sway bar or links or whatnot (NEWWWWBIEEE!!!) for the rear.

    Thanks again

  42. Hey WOL, to add to my previous post, if I install the linkson the opposite side of the sway bar and axle mount should this solve my problem? And do you think I could get away with running a wider tire. Looking at going to 285-70-R17 on the stock wheels.

  43. Hey JKFreek, you can learn all about back spacing here:
    http://www.jk-forum.com/showpost.php?p=211274&postcount=3

    AS far as a wider wheel goes, the diameter of it shouldn’t change anything other than where your links will rub and physical width of it may make things worse. Factory back spacing is 6.25″ and you will want something closer to 4″ in order to clear things with room to spare. 1.5″ wheel spacers will help you achieve this.

    Eddie

  44. Hey, this is a great write up. I just have one question, I am going to order 37 14.00 tires, and I was going to keep my stock jk 17 inch wheels. I already have a 6 inch lift and 1.5 inch spacers. Am I going to have any problem running that wide of a tire on my stock wheels?

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