Instructions
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This is a pic of all the parts you should get with your new Full Traction Suspension Jeep JK Wrangler 3″ Economy Lift Kit. Take some time to make sure you have all the parts shown as well as all the tools listed on the left prior to starting this project. |
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1. Park your Jeep JK Wrangler on a level surface, chock your rear tires, raise the front end of it one side at a time from the axle using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts. |
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2. Remove the wheels off your Jeep JK Wrangler using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under front the axle to help support it. |
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3. Using a 5/8″ wrench, hold your Jeep JK Wrangler’s shock can in place just below the upper shock mount to keep it from spinning. Then, remove the stud mount nut above using a 16mm wrench. |
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4. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front shocks to the lower axle mount. |
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| 5. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. |
6. Using an 18mm socket and a 19mm wrench to hold the ball joint in place, remove the nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front sway bar links to the front sway bar itself. Allow the sway bar to dangle in place. |
7. Remove the bolt securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front track bar to the front axle mount using a 21mm socket. This can be a tough bolt to remove and an impact wrench or breaker bar will help to make this job easier. Once removed, set aside the flagged nut and leave the track bar attached to the frame. |
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8. Carefully lower your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front axle until the factory front coils can be slipped out of the upper perch and be removed completely with ease. |
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| 9. With the front coils removed, clean off the lower spring perch, place one of the CA1003 2�X3� Aluminum Bump Stop Extension that came with the Full Traction kit on top of it and use it as a template to mark off the location of the center hole. |
10. Set aside the CA1003 2�X3� Aluminum Bump Stop Extension and mark the center of where you will need to drill with a center punch and hammer. |
11. The space you’ll have to work with is limited and you may find that removing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rubber bump stops will help to give you a bit more room to get a hand drill under it straight. To remove the bump stop, simply grab it and pull firmly till it pops off. |
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| 12. Use a 1/8″ metal drilling bit to make a pilot hole in the center of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front lower spring perches. |
13. Drill out the pilot holes you just made in your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front lower spring perches using an 11/32″ metal drilling bit. |
14. Using a 9/16″ socket and one of the 3/8″x2-1/2″ self-tapping bolts provided with the Full Traction kit, slowly thread the holes you just drilled out by ratcheting the bolt on. Make sure to back out often and take your time. |
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| 15. Reinstall the factory rubber bump stop if you had removed it, work your new Full Traction coil over it and begin positioning it over the lower spring perch. Even with your front axle sitting as low as it can go, this task may still prove to be a bit difficult as the new coils are significantly taller than stock. You may want to use a set of spring compressors to assist you here. |
16. Slip in a CA1003 2â€?X3â€? Aluminum Bump Stop Extension up under the new Full Traction front coils just as you seat it onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower spring perch. |
17. Insert the 3/8″x2-1/2″ self-tapping bolt through the middle of the Aluminum Bump Stop Extension and secure it in place using a 9/16″ socket, a 3″ ratchet extension and working through the coils. Tighten the bolt to 30 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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18. Depending on what shocks you decided to get with your Full Traction 3″ Economy Lift Kit, you may find that bar pins will have been pre-installed into the lower shock bushing. If this is the case with your shocks, you’ll need to remove them and replace them with the metal sleeves that’ll be included with the shock hardware. A bench vice will help out a lot to press out the existing bar pin enough for you to pry it out and it will help you to press in the new metal sleeves. |
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| 19. Assemble one of the large cupped washers onto your front shock mounting stud so that the concave side is facing up and then follow it up with one of the polyurethane bushings with the stepped side facing up. |
20. Slip the front shock mounting stud up into your Jeep JK Wrangler’s upper mount, slide on the other polyurethane bushing with the stepped sided pointing down and then cap it off with the other cupped washer. |
21. Secure the front shock mounting stud in place with the new nut and jam nut that should have been provided with shock. You will need either (2) 17mm wrenches to do this or an 11/16″ will make a good substitute. Tighten this nut to 17 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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22. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, secure your front shocks to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s axle mount using the factory hardware and tighten the nut and bolt to 56 ft. lbs. of torque. |
| NOTE: If you’ve purchased a Full Traction Adjustable Front Track Bar, click on the link below for installation instructions:
Otherwise, continue on to step #23 below.
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23. Install the 50-7127 Front Trac Bar Bracket into your Jeep JK Wrangler’s factory axle mount, slide in the 1-1/8″x 14mm CA1020 Trac Bar Bracket Crush Spacer between the bracket and then loosely secure everything in place using the factory track bar bolt and flagged nut. |
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24. Using a 1/2″ socket and wrench, install the longer 5/16″x2-3/4″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut through the outside track bar mount hole closest to the passenger side wheel on your Jeep JK Wrangler. Then, install the shorter 5/16″x3/4″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut through the inside bracket hole as shown in the sample photo to the left. |
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25. Tighten the factory track bar mount bolt to 125 ft. lbs. of torque and then tighten the 5/16″ side support bolts to 45-50 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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26. With the engine off, put your key in the ignition, make sure that the steering wheel is unlocked and then have a friend turn it in one direction or the other until you can line up your Jeep JK Wrangler’s track bar with the mounting hole on the 50-7127 Front Trac Bar Bracket. Then, secure it in place by installing the 9/16″x3″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut supplied with the kit. |
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27. Using a 7/8″ wrench and a 13/16″ socket, tighten your Jeep JK Wrangler front track bar to the 50-7127 Front Trac Bar Bracket to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. |
| 28. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front wheels, lower it back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque, remove the wheel chocks from the rear and place them up front. |
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Lift the rear end up from the differential using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts. Remove the wheels off your Jeep JK Wrangler using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under front the axle to help support it. |
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| 30. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. |
31. Using an 18mm socket and a 19mm wrench to hold the ball joint in place, remove the nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear sway bar links to the rear sway bar itself. Allow the sway bar to dangle in place. |
32. Using a 16mm socket and a 12″ ratchet extension, loosen one of the two upper shock mount bolts and then completely remove the other. |
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| 33. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear shocks to the lower axle mounts. Then, remove the shocks completely by sliding them out of the remaining loosened upper mount bolts. |
34. Remove the rear track bar bolt and nut from your Jeep JK Wrangler’s upper frame mount using a 21mm socket and a crescent wrench. As was the case with the front track bar, this can be a tough bolt to remove and a breaker bar will help to make this job easier. |
35. Loosely install the 50-740504 Rear Track Bar Bracket onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear frame mount using one of the 9/16″x3″ grade 8 bolt to hold it in place. Using the bracket as a template, measure 1-3/4″ up from the center of bottom hole to locate where you will need to drill out the upper hole on the factory mount. |
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36. Remove the 50-740504 Rear Track Bar Bracket and position it over your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear track bar frame mount to double check the accuracy of the drilling point mark you made. |
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| 37. Mark the center of where you will need to drill with a center punch and hammer. |
38. Use a 1/8″ metal drilling bit to make a pilot hole in your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear track bar frame mount. |
39. Drill out the pilot hole you just created using a 1/2″ metal drilling bit. |
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40. Reinstall the 50-740504 Rear Track Bar Bracket onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear frame mount and secure it in place by fastening a 1/2″x1-1/4″ grade 8 bolt, washer and nut to the top bolt hole. You will need to use a 3/4″ socket and wrench for this job. Tighten this bolt and lock nut to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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41. Install the 50-740505 Rear Track Bar Strap Bracket over your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear frame mount and secure it in place by fastening a 1/2″x1-1/4″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut to the bottom bolt hole. You will need to use a 3/4″ socket and wrench for this job. Tighten this bolt and lock nut to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. Then, loosely install the 9/16″x3″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut through the rear frame mount holding both sides of the strap in place. This bolt will be tightened after you reinstall the rear track bar. |
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| 42. Unhook your Jeep JK Wrangler’s emergency brake cables from the hanger bolted on the bottom of the tub. Or, you can unbolt the hanger all together. This is necessary in order for you to get your rear axle to droop enough to install your new coils. |
43. Using a 10mm socket, unbolt the rear brake line brackets which are fastened to the outside frame rails of your Jeep JK Wrangler. Leave them dangling at this time. |
44. Slowly lower your rear axle being mindful of the ESP wiring. If they get too tight, you may want to clip the plastic ties holding them in place and then zip tie them back on later. Once your axle is dropped low enough, your factory coils should just about fall out and can be removed with ease. Set aside the upper rubber isolators as they will be reused. |
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45. Place the factory rubber isolator on top of your new Full Traction coils and install them on the rear of your Jeep JK Wrangler making sure that the isolators and coils are properly seated in their perches. Again, this may prove to be a bit difficult especially on the passenger side if you have a 2-Door JK as the gas tank is in the way and a set of spring compressors should help to make this job easier to do. |
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46. Using a 10mm socket and the factory hardware, install the CA2007 (driver side) and CA2008
(passenger side) Brake Line Extension Brackets, onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s frame rails. |
47. Secure your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear brake lines to the new extension brackets using the 1/4″x3/4″ bolts, washers and lock nuts provided with the kit. You will need a 7/16″ socket and wrench for this job. |
48. Place the (2) 50-7101 Rear Bump Stop Blocks on top your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear axle bump pads and secure them in place using the 3/8″x3/4″ bolts, washers and nuts provided with the kit. You will need (2) 9/16″ wrenchs for the job but a 14mm wrench will act as a good substitute. |
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49. Using an 18mm socket and 19mm wrench install the new 70-4175 12� Straight Rear Sway Bar Links onto your factory sway bar using the 12x60mm bolts and nuts provided with the kit. |
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50. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, secure the new 70-4175 12� Straight Rear Sway Bar Links to the lower axle mounts using the factory hardware. |
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51. Install your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear factory track bar into the new 50-740504 Rear Track Bar Bracket and secure it in place using the 9/16″x3″ grade 8 bolt, washer and nut provided with the kit. Tighten both the bracket strap bolt and track bar bolt hand tight for now and up to 125 ft. lbs. of torque once your Jeep is back on the ground with the full weight of the vehicle on it. You will need a 13/16″ socket and a 7/8″ wrench for this job. |
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52. Make sure your new rear shocks have the appropriate bar pin installed. Then, using a 16mm socket and a 12″ ratchet extension, install them onto the rear upper shock mounts on your Jeep JK Wrangler using the factory hardware. Tighten these bolts to 37 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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53. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, install your new rear shocks onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower axle mounts using the factory hardware. Tighten these bolts to 56 ft. lbs. of torque. |
| 54. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear wheels, lower it back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque and make sure to tighten both the rear track bar bolt and bracket strap bolt to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. Remove the wheel chocks from the front. |
Jeep JK Wrangler X & Sahara Models
If you have a Jeep JK Wrangler X or Sahara, proceed to install the FTS306071 JK NEW GEN. Front Sway Bar Link Kit using the new 12mmx65mm bolts and nuts provided with the kit up top and the factory hardware for the lower axle mount.Jeep JK Wrangler Rubicon Models
Mark’s Jeep JK Wrangler is a Rubicon edition and because it has an electronic sway bar disconnect system up front, the Full Traction disconnect links should not be installed. Instead, you will need to take your old factory rear sway bar links and install them onto your front sway bar. Needless to say, the rest of this installation write-up will be from the perspective of a Rubicon model. |
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55. Using an 18mm socket and a 19mm wrench to hold the ball joint in place, install the nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear sway bar links to the front sway bar itself. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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56. Using the factory hardware, secure the rear sway bar links to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower front axle mounts and tighten them to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. You will need an 18mm socket and wrench to do this job. |
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57. You will now need to re-center your steering wheel as it will now be off. Using a 15mm wrench, loosen the 2 nuts on the turnbuckle as shown in the pic to the left. Then, rotate the turnbuckle clockwise or counter clockwise as needed while a friend watches the steering wheel (or you periodically check on it yourself) go back to center. Once re-centered, secure the nuts and take it for a drive to check your steering wheel. This may take a few tries to get it on 100% but that’s all there is to it. |
| ATTENTION: For people who will be keeping their factory wheels, you will need to install your rear sway bar links on the inside as shown in the photos below. This is required because the back spacing on the factory wheels will cause your wheel weights and/or wheels themselves to rub on the upper link bolts. |
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That’s it, you’re done. You now have a 3″ taller Jeep JK Wrangler that’s ready to stand on a set of new 35″ tires. Please let me know if you have any questions. |
Additional Photos
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| After |
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| After with 35″ Toyo Open Country M/T’s |
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Wow,
I read this thread and your Frontend Alignment article and learned more in 30 minutes than I had in the rest of my research combined! Thanks. I have an ’07 Sahara 4Dr with stock 18″ wheels. I live back a dirt road subject to some serious washboards. I would like to accomplish two things with a lift/suspension/tires: gaining clearance and not rattling my fillings out (OK, it also has to look good!). Seems like most of the kits are set up for crawling where I am more concerned with rebound and dampening (think Baja). Any suggestions?
Rob
Hi Rob, I’m glad to know that my write-ups have been helpful to you. Regarding your needs, I think you will find that upgrading your soft Sahara shocks to a set of high pressure gas charged ones, such as Old Man Emu, M-Force or Bilstein alone will help give you the dampening you are looking for.
Eddie
Very nice!
I have 2 questions,
Is it ok without front break line extension?
How many inches is the back space of the new rims?
Yes, the factory front brake lines will be long enough and you will not need to extend them. As far as the back spacing of the new rims goes, I am running 4.5″.
Eddie
Hey just a few questions..
1.with a three inch lift u do not need to change youre drive shafts? but …how about with a 4 inch ?.
2.does the upper and lower control arms(ft 4inch premium)change the angle of youre driveshafts enouph to keep the cv’s in driveable condition…or..what do they adjust?
SORRY IF THAT SOUNDS COMPLICATED
alos just curious if i decide to get either the 3 or 4 inch premium lift do u know if the 4-door kit has a different spring rate ? if so would i be able to order heavier springs (do to roof rack +equipment?
hey tyler,
1. if you have an unlimited and a 6-speed, no, you will not need to change your drive shafts even if you have a 4″ lift. I am running this setup now. If you have a 2-door, it is not necessary but you really will want to change out your rear shaft sooner than later as the angle on it will be very steep and will cause your CV boots to wear prematurely. If you have an automatic, you will need to notch out or remove your auto tranny skid plate as it will cause your front driveshaft boot to tear when flexing. Although, an aftermarket u-joint style drive shaft will be narrow enough to clear the skid.
2. Yes, your control arms will allow you to adjust your drive lines and set your caster.
3. The spring rates are the same on the 2-door and 4-door and heavier spring rates are available.
Eddie
hey thanks Eddie so much for youre reply!! but i have endless questions that u mite be able to answer..
running 35 10.5 ‘s with the 3inch lift do i need wheel spacers?(if not should i get them just for a little extra width with the tall skinny’s)
and do you feel that the danna 44 ‘s can handle the 35 10.5 with ease or should their be up grades?
tyler
Naw, if you are running 10.50 wide tires, wheel spacers will not be needed. Only with 12.50 wide tires or wider. And yes, your Dana 44’s will be able to handle the 35’s just fine.
Eddie
hey eddie quick question.iam having a kid so iam now on a budget do u think a 2” budget boost and a 1 inch body lift plus front and rear track bars would be alrite as far as ride qaulity? as well do u think with 35 and the lift set up i just mentioned, do u think the esp would go all wonky? and do u think there would be much if any drive shaft vibration?thnaks
tyler
ps if u have anysugestions plz let me know
Hi tyler, a 2″ BB and a 1″ BL will get you clearing 35’s just fine and you won’t even need new track bars and you definitely will NOT have any vibrations since the drive shafts use CV style joints. As far as ESP goes, you will not have any if you have a 4-door and if you have a 2-door, you might at first but it will go away once your computer figure things out. But, you will most likely have no problems.
Eddie
thankx again eddie hey so u think i will notice no difference in ride quality with nothing but the 2″ bb and 1″ bl?
Hey, my name is Taylor. Im 16 and and got a brand new jk X for my birthday (Yes Thank GOD!!) Iv always had a love for jeeps, and know a lil bit about them but not much, I am very interested in putting a lift on my jeep, and running some 35’s. From what I have learned from your site I would like to go with Full Traction 3″, my only problem is, IDK wether to get the Eco, Premium, or Unlimited. What are the perks of having the Premium over the Unlimited?? Im a daily driver, to school and back, and driving around town w/ all the friends. A regular teen. But about 5 of my friends 4Wheel, and im not big into rock crawling or anything I just like the basic trails, and mudholes. Also, will I need to redo my gears and all, I plan on a 3″ lift, 35 12.50’s and the 17″ stock rim. I just need to know what im getting into, and what the best set up for ME would be. Thanks.
tyler, for the most part, no, you shouldn’t notice a difference especially if you keep your factory shocks.
Taylor, the ultimate lift kit will come with all the components you need to dial in your ride. but for your purposes, you might be good just to get the economy lift and then just upgrade as you can afford it.
Eddie
Will I need to redo my gearing or anything? Or just throw on the the lift and tires, and drive on down the road??
If you install 35″ tires, you may want to regear especially if you do not have 4.10 gears.
Eddie
Does the Full Traction econo lift level out the JK?? I have noticed that JK’s seem to sit alot higher in the rear than in the front. Actually, I have one more question, does the FT econo lift give you more articulation for off road use?
Yes, you will get more articulation and if you get the HD coils, you will actually sit a bit nose high if you don’t have a heavy duty steel bumper and winch. With the standard coils, you will still have a little rake but not as bad.
Eddie, thanks for the write up. It’s been brought up however I’m tearing my hair out trying to make a decision. I’ve an ’07 2dr X, 17in rims wrapped with 33.5’s. As it’s my day to day I won’t be offroad too much and want the best look I can get. Do you recommend 2” or 3”? Thanks!
Hi Shawn, for 33ish tires, you can easily get by with 2″-2.5″ of lift and if money is a factor, I would go that route.
Eddie
Hey Eddie. Where can I buy everything necessary to do this kit. (Tires Exempt) and which one exactly should I buy?
Also with a JK with 3.73 gearing, how much fuel mpg loss should I expect if I am getting 18hwy/16city once I throw the 35″s on with stock wheels?
Thanks
Any of our sponsors will be able to help you out. Give JK-Forum.com a look as I think you will find a lot of feedback as to who they like to use and why. As far as MPG goes, there will be some loss but not that much.
Eddie
Eddie, I am installing the Rough Country 2.5″ BB on my 4-DR Rubi. I am going to move the rear sway bar links to the front and add longer rear links. What is the best way to determine the length of the rear links? Will the rear links be ok up front with 2.5″ BB?
yes, your factory rear links will work just fine up front. as for the rears, you’ll want to have them about 2″-3″ longer than stock. You’ll have to forgive me for editing out the link you posted but the company in question has been blacklisted from this website due to their questionable business practices and conduct here.
Yes i plan on installing on a 2000 TJ what will the big difference be from this installation and the other?
Thanks for the info, this really helps. No worries on the editing, I was wondering about dropping names that I did not see as sponors of the site when I typed that.
Best regards, Brian.
Thank you for your understanding. So you know, dropping names even though they are not sponsors is not so much a problem but we do not allow blacklisted ones to be mentioned. 🙂
Hey Eddie, I was wondering in step 47, if it is a good idea to take the solid portion of the brake line (that runs along the frame) out of the plastic clip retainer that holds it to the frame? It seems like alot of stress builds at that point when you bend the brake line down to bolt on the extension bracket.
Hey Brian, nope, not necessary to do at all as the line is quite flexible and I have yet to see this be a problem.
Eddie
I have a question about lifting my 2007 JK. I haven’t done anything with it yet. I plan on putting a 3″ suspension lift on and probably also putting 35×12.50 all-terrains on it. For right now I am pretty much just doing it for looks, I might take it off-road a little bit but nothing too crazy. So will I be able to put 35’s on it or should I go with 33’s, I’m not too familiar with this stuff but I’m trying to do my research before I mess up my Jeep. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
I forgot to add its a 2 door X.
Yes, you can definitely install a set of 35’s with this lift.
will i have to swap out my gears tho??
while you can run without regearing, you will feel a power loss. personally, i would recommend having a set of 5.13’s installed as they will give you a significant boost in power. however, if mpg is more important to you, 4.88’s is the way to go.
Question. I just had a 3″ full traction lift installed by my dealer and 33″ Toyo’s. They installed the front and rear traction bars and Full Traction gas shocks. I drove it home from dealer today and above 60mph it is almost scary to drive. It darts left and right with just a small input on the steering wheel. It wanders badly and seems to have way too much body roll. I did notice when I got home they had close to 40psi in the tires. I lowered them to 30psi but haven’t tried to drive it yet as it’s raining. My steering wheel is not centered like you mentioned. Any ideas? I plan on returning to the dealer asap for some help. I ask you this because I consider you a expert on this lift and much better qualified than most dealer techs to address this issue. I fell like I have ruined a great riding jeep. I have had other lifted jeeps and they all drove better with lifts. Something is wrong for sure. Thanks, Mike
first off, you have way too much air in your tires. for 33’s, you should be closer to 28 psi – that will help a lot. if you still have steering issues at highway speeds, you should consider picking up a set of adjustable lower control arms and have them set to about 23″ in lenght eye to eye. this will effectively give you more positive caster (about +6°-7°) and will get your jeep driving a lot better.
I had this kit installed by 4 wheel parts and I’m still having trouble with the right front spring coils hitting the center stop. The left side is fine. Any ideas on whats going on? thanks
Ok im going to ask this here also since i havent got an answer yet,regearing,whats the difference between the 4.88 and 5.13 , i was told to go 5.13 with the 3″ full traction ultimate lift and 35″ cepek crusher tires also putting on 16×8 american racing wheels (predator)im going with have 4.5 backspacing,also going with upgraded driveshafts,i also am putting a front bumper and winch down the road have the back warn bumper on its way with tire carrier,so will all this be a good combo?plus are the 5.13 the best gears to go with? i also have a k&n air intake and a gibson catback split rear exhaust which i should have got flowmaster but have this now so will try it.this will be on a 2007 wrangler x 2 door automatic i know all this has nothing to do with regearing except the lift and tire size,just wanted to say what i was doing to it,will my gas mileage go way downhill also?
5.13’s will give your jeep the feeling that it has about 30 extra hp but it will run on the high side of the rpm range at highway speeds – maybe 3k at about 70mph. however, imho, this is an insignificant issue and i would do it.
Eddie,
After reading this write up and other reviews for Full Traction lifts, I am pretty much sold on this lift and plan to purchase one soooon….I am kinda in a toss up whether to purchase a FT 3″ Economy or Premium lift. I have a 08 2DR A/T Rubicon with 4:10 gears and am planning on running 35X12.5 BFG Mud terrains. My jeep will be a daily driver but also a periodic weekend trail rider.
The literature on both lift systems states there is no driveline mods required however it appears that there is. What really needs to be modified/replaced for the longevity of a good operating vehicle and when do these mods need to take place (during or after the lift install?). Concerning the A/T skid plate notch, is this a perferred method for cost or should the front driveline also be replaced for mechanically sound reasons/wear.
I want a good dependable system that is going to keep minimum unwanted wear on other componets but I also want to keep it low cost.
Thanks.
Is it possible for me to re-center my own steering wheel? It is about and 1/8th of a turn off the the left, not a big deal in fact it doesn’t even mess with the ESP but I would just like it straight.
of course, click on the write-up link and look for the basic front end alignment link. there are easy to follow instructions there.
Hey. I installed the 3� lift on my 2 door JK last year in December and was happy with it until now. The back track bar relocation bracket was hitting the shock at the rear right badly, very badly every time it bottoms out. I read trough the write up again and found that I did not go wrong any were with the installation. If there is any one else with this lift I suggest you go and have a look. Just slip your hand to the back of your rear right shock and feel if there is a dent caused by the bolt on the relocation bracket. And if there is any one with suggestions to the problem I will surely appreciate help.
is it the threaded end of the bolt that’s hitting the shaft and if so, have you tried reversing the bolt?
Would you suggest this lift of the 4″ suspension lift by Rough Country? This 3″ lift seems bigger and they are about the same price… Thanks.
actually, they measure out to being about the same height. regardless of which one you go with, i would recommend that you get a set of adjustable front lower control arms so that you can set your caster as well as an adjustable front track bar.
I plan on starting with the economy and working my way up to the ultimate as funds become available. Once I get to the ultimate stage, I want to place a 1″ coil spacer, in order to turn it into a 4″ lift.
Would you recommend me installing a drop pitman arm at the economy stage or wait till I add the spacers? and would the m-force shocks that come with the 3″ lift, be long enough to be used with the spacers, or will I need new shocks.
Thanks
hi LAHAL, you will NOT need a dropped pitman arm for just 3″ of lift and i would not recommend installing one until you get to 4″. regarding shocks, FT no longer sells M-Force shocks as they were being made by edelbrock and there were just too many being delivered to them without a charge. FT now provides JK specific valved bilstien shocks and they are much much better anyway. as far as their length goes, they will work with 4″ of lift but you might want to consider installing a set of shock extensions.
Great feedback, Thanks.
Then can I go with 4″ inch shocks, on a 3″ lift?
And would you recommend the Rancho RS9000 XL series shocks?
it all depends on the extended and collapsed length of the shock and not whether or not it’s “billed” as being a 3″ or 4″ shock. more than likely, yes, but if the 4″ shock is too long, you will run the risk of bottoming it out even on pavement.
regarding the rancho 9000xl’s, yes, they are a good shock.