Instructions
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This is a pic of all the parts you should get with your new Full Traction Suspension Jeep JK Wrangler 3″ Economy Lift Kit. Take some time to make sure you have all the parts shown as well as all the tools listed on the left prior to starting this project. |
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1. Park your Jeep JK Wrangler on a level surface, chock your rear tires, raise the front end of it one side at a time from the axle using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts. |
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2. Remove the wheels off your Jeep JK Wrangler using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under front the axle to help support it. |
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3. Using a 5/8″ wrench, hold your Jeep JK Wrangler’s shock can in place just below the upper shock mount to keep it from spinning. Then, remove the stud mount nut above using a 16mm wrench. |
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4. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front shocks to the lower axle mount. |
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| 5. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. |
6. Using an 18mm socket and a 19mm wrench to hold the ball joint in place, remove the nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front sway bar links to the front sway bar itself. Allow the sway bar to dangle in place. |
7. Remove the bolt securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front track bar to the front axle mount using a 21mm socket. This can be a tough bolt to remove and an impact wrench or breaker bar will help to make this job easier. Once removed, set aside the flagged nut and leave the track bar attached to the frame. |
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8. Carefully lower your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front axle until the factory front coils can be slipped out of the upper perch and be removed completely with ease. |
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| 9. With the front coils removed, clean off the lower spring perch, place one of the CA1003 2�X3� Aluminum Bump Stop Extension that came with the Full Traction kit on top of it and use it as a template to mark off the location of the center hole. |
10. Set aside the CA1003 2�X3� Aluminum Bump Stop Extension and mark the center of where you will need to drill with a center punch and hammer. |
11. The space you’ll have to work with is limited and you may find that removing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rubber bump stops will help to give you a bit more room to get a hand drill under it straight. To remove the bump stop, simply grab it and pull firmly till it pops off. |
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| 12. Use a 1/8″ metal drilling bit to make a pilot hole in the center of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front lower spring perches. |
13. Drill out the pilot holes you just made in your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front lower spring perches using an 11/32″ metal drilling bit. |
14. Using a 9/16″ socket and one of the 3/8″x2-1/2″ self-tapping bolts provided with the Full Traction kit, slowly thread the holes you just drilled out by ratcheting the bolt on. Make sure to back out often and take your time. |
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| 15. Reinstall the factory rubber bump stop if you had removed it, work your new Full Traction coil over it and begin positioning it over the lower spring perch. Even with your front axle sitting as low as it can go, this task may still prove to be a bit difficult as the new coils are significantly taller than stock. You may want to use a set of spring compressors to assist you here. |
16. Slip in a CA1003 2â€?X3â€? Aluminum Bump Stop Extension up under the new Full Traction front coils just as you seat it onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower spring perch. |
17. Insert the 3/8″x2-1/2″ self-tapping bolt through the middle of the Aluminum Bump Stop Extension and secure it in place using a 9/16″ socket, a 3″ ratchet extension and working through the coils. Tighten the bolt to 30 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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18. Depending on what shocks you decided to get with your Full Traction 3″ Economy Lift Kit, you may find that bar pins will have been pre-installed into the lower shock bushing. If this is the case with your shocks, you’ll need to remove them and replace them with the metal sleeves that’ll be included with the shock hardware. A bench vice will help out a lot to press out the existing bar pin enough for you to pry it out and it will help you to press in the new metal sleeves. |
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| 19. Assemble one of the large cupped washers onto your front shock mounting stud so that the concave side is facing up and then follow it up with one of the polyurethane bushings with the stepped side facing up. |
20. Slip the front shock mounting stud up into your Jeep JK Wrangler’s upper mount, slide on the other polyurethane bushing with the stepped sided pointing down and then cap it off with the other cupped washer. |
21. Secure the front shock mounting stud in place with the new nut and jam nut that should have been provided with shock. You will need either (2) 17mm wrenches to do this or an 11/16″ will make a good substitute. Tighten this nut to 17 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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22. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, secure your front shocks to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s axle mount using the factory hardware and tighten the nut and bolt to 56 ft. lbs. of torque. |
| NOTE: If you’ve purchased a Full Traction Adjustable Front Track Bar, click on the link below for installation instructions:
Otherwise, continue on to step #23 below.
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23. Install the 50-7127 Front Trac Bar Bracket into your Jeep JK Wrangler’s factory axle mount, slide in the 1-1/8″x 14mm CA1020 Trac Bar Bracket Crush Spacer between the bracket and then loosely secure everything in place using the factory track bar bolt and flagged nut. |
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24. Using a 1/2″ socket and wrench, install the longer 5/16″x2-3/4″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut through the outside track bar mount hole closest to the passenger side wheel on your Jeep JK Wrangler. Then, install the shorter 5/16″x3/4″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut through the inside bracket hole as shown in the sample photo to the left. |
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25. Tighten the factory track bar mount bolt to 125 ft. lbs. of torque and then tighten the 5/16″ side support bolts to 45-50 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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26. With the engine off, put your key in the ignition, make sure that the steering wheel is unlocked and then have a friend turn it in one direction or the other until you can line up your Jeep JK Wrangler’s track bar with the mounting hole on the 50-7127 Front Trac Bar Bracket. Then, secure it in place by installing the 9/16″x3″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut supplied with the kit. |
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27. Using a 7/8″ wrench and a 13/16″ socket, tighten your Jeep JK Wrangler front track bar to the 50-7127 Front Trac Bar Bracket to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. |
| 28. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front wheels, lower it back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque, remove the wheel chocks from the rear and place them up front. |
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Lift the rear end up from the differential using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts. Remove the wheels off your Jeep JK Wrangler using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under front the axle to help support it. |
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| 30. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. |
31. Using an 18mm socket and a 19mm wrench to hold the ball joint in place, remove the nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear sway bar links to the rear sway bar itself. Allow the sway bar to dangle in place. |
32. Using a 16mm socket and a 12″ ratchet extension, loosen one of the two upper shock mount bolts and then completely remove the other. |
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| 33. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear shocks to the lower axle mounts. Then, remove the shocks completely by sliding them out of the remaining loosened upper mount bolts. |
34. Remove the rear track bar bolt and nut from your Jeep JK Wrangler’s upper frame mount using a 21mm socket and a crescent wrench. As was the case with the front track bar, this can be a tough bolt to remove and a breaker bar will help to make this job easier. |
35. Loosely install the 50-740504 Rear Track Bar Bracket onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear frame mount using one of the 9/16″x3″ grade 8 bolt to hold it in place. Using the bracket as a template, measure 1-3/4″ up from the center of bottom hole to locate where you will need to drill out the upper hole on the factory mount. |
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36. Remove the 50-740504 Rear Track Bar Bracket and position it over your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear track bar frame mount to double check the accuracy of the drilling point mark you made. |
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| 37. Mark the center of where you will need to drill with a center punch and hammer. |
38. Use a 1/8″ metal drilling bit to make a pilot hole in your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear track bar frame mount. |
39. Drill out the pilot hole you just created using a 1/2″ metal drilling bit. |
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40. Reinstall the 50-740504 Rear Track Bar Bracket onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear frame mount and secure it in place by fastening a 1/2″x1-1/4″ grade 8 bolt, washer and nut to the top bolt hole. You will need to use a 3/4″ socket and wrench for this job. Tighten this bolt and lock nut to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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41. Install the 50-740505 Rear Track Bar Strap Bracket over your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear frame mount and secure it in place by fastening a 1/2″x1-1/4″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut to the bottom bolt hole. You will need to use a 3/4″ socket and wrench for this job. Tighten this bolt and lock nut to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. Then, loosely install the 9/16″x3″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut through the rear frame mount holding both sides of the strap in place. This bolt will be tightened after you reinstall the rear track bar. |
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| 42. Unhook your Jeep JK Wrangler’s emergency brake cables from the hanger bolted on the bottom of the tub. Or, you can unbolt the hanger all together. This is necessary in order for you to get your rear axle to droop enough to install your new coils. |
43. Using a 10mm socket, unbolt the rear brake line brackets which are fastened to the outside frame rails of your Jeep JK Wrangler. Leave them dangling at this time. |
44. Slowly lower your rear axle being mindful of the ESP wiring. If they get too tight, you may want to clip the plastic ties holding them in place and then zip tie them back on later. Once your axle is dropped low enough, your factory coils should just about fall out and can be removed with ease. Set aside the upper rubber isolators as they will be reused. |
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45. Place the factory rubber isolator on top of your new Full Traction coils and install them on the rear of your Jeep JK Wrangler making sure that the isolators and coils are properly seated in their perches. Again, this may prove to be a bit difficult especially on the passenger side if you have a 2-Door JK as the gas tank is in the way and a set of spring compressors should help to make this job easier to do. |
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46. Using a 10mm socket and the factory hardware, install the CA2007 (driver side) and CA2008
(passenger side) Brake Line Extension Brackets, onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s frame rails. |
47. Secure your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear brake lines to the new extension brackets using the 1/4″x3/4″ bolts, washers and lock nuts provided with the kit. You will need a 7/16″ socket and wrench for this job. |
48. Place the (2) 50-7101 Rear Bump Stop Blocks on top your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear axle bump pads and secure them in place using the 3/8″x3/4″ bolts, washers and nuts provided with the kit. You will need (2) 9/16″ wrenchs for the job but a 14mm wrench will act as a good substitute. |
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49. Using an 18mm socket and 19mm wrench install the new 70-4175 12� Straight Rear Sway Bar Links onto your factory sway bar using the 12x60mm bolts and nuts provided with the kit. |
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50. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, secure the new 70-4175 12� Straight Rear Sway Bar Links to the lower axle mounts using the factory hardware. |
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51. Install your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear factory track bar into the new 50-740504 Rear Track Bar Bracket and secure it in place using the 9/16″x3″ grade 8 bolt, washer and nut provided with the kit. Tighten both the bracket strap bolt and track bar bolt hand tight for now and up to 125 ft. lbs. of torque once your Jeep is back on the ground with the full weight of the vehicle on it. You will need a 13/16″ socket and a 7/8″ wrench for this job. |
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52. Make sure your new rear shocks have the appropriate bar pin installed. Then, using a 16mm socket and a 12″ ratchet extension, install them onto the rear upper shock mounts on your Jeep JK Wrangler using the factory hardware. Tighten these bolts to 37 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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53. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, install your new rear shocks onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower axle mounts using the factory hardware. Tighten these bolts to 56 ft. lbs. of torque. |
| 54. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear wheels, lower it back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque and make sure to tighten both the rear track bar bolt and bracket strap bolt to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. Remove the wheel chocks from the front. |
Jeep JK Wrangler X & Sahara Models
If you have a Jeep JK Wrangler X or Sahara, proceed to install the FTS306071 JK NEW GEN. Front Sway Bar Link Kit using the new 12mmx65mm bolts and nuts provided with the kit up top and the factory hardware for the lower axle mount.Jeep JK Wrangler Rubicon Models
Mark’s Jeep JK Wrangler is a Rubicon edition and because it has an electronic sway bar disconnect system up front, the Full Traction disconnect links should not be installed. Instead, you will need to take your old factory rear sway bar links and install them onto your front sway bar. Needless to say, the rest of this installation write-up will be from the perspective of a Rubicon model. |
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55. Using an 18mm socket and a 19mm wrench to hold the ball joint in place, install the nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear sway bar links to the front sway bar itself. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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56. Using the factory hardware, secure the rear sway bar links to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower front axle mounts and tighten them to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. You will need an 18mm socket and wrench to do this job. |
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57. You will now need to re-center your steering wheel as it will now be off. Using a 15mm wrench, loosen the 2 nuts on the turnbuckle as shown in the pic to the left. Then, rotate the turnbuckle clockwise or counter clockwise as needed while a friend watches the steering wheel (or you periodically check on it yourself) go back to center. Once re-centered, secure the nuts and take it for a drive to check your steering wheel. This may take a few tries to get it on 100% but that’s all there is to it. |
| ATTENTION: For people who will be keeping their factory wheels, you will need to install your rear sway bar links on the inside as shown in the photos below. This is required because the back spacing on the factory wheels will cause your wheel weights and/or wheels themselves to rub on the upper link bolts. |
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That’s it, you’re done. You now have a 3″ taller Jeep JK Wrangler that’s ready to stand on a set of new 35″ tires. Please let me know if you have any questions. |
Additional Photos
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| After |
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| After with 35″ Toyo Open Country M/T’s |
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That is a nice looking jeep and love the rims and tires. How does it ride and how can I get you to do mine?
After giving it a test drive myself, I can honestly say that it rides great, but I think it would handle better with the addition of an adjustable track bar (as opposed to a relocation bracket) and adjustable upper control arms up front to dial in the caster. Of course, this is just a basic economy kit and for what it is, it’s great.
As far as doing your lift, well, if you live in the SoCal area or are at least willing to drive out here, I would be more than happy to help you out as well. 🙂
Eddie
Hey Eddie, great write up, now your comment atthe end intrigues me. So you are recommending the Premium lift over the economy?
Well sure I am but why stop there? Heck, I’d recommend the Ultimate lift kit if you have the cash. I mean, who wouldn’t want all the bells an whistles if you could afford it. But, in the end, we are talking about an “economy” kit here and for what it is and what it does, I think it’s a great kit. And, I should point out that it can be easily upgraded in the future as funds permit. 🙂
Eddie
excellent point on the upgrade potential.
I was wondering what the width and offset those wheels have?
They are 17 x 8 with 4 1/2″ of backspacing.
Great write up. Did you hang the 35″ spare without any fit problem?
Hey Jack,
If you look at the very last pic in the Additional Photos, you will see that Mark did in fact mount his 35″ tire on the tailgate. It’s a tight fit but it did just barely.
Eddie
That looks great, kind of off topic, but how is the power with the 35″ tires?
What size tires? I’m assuming they’re 35×12.50R17’s?
Would a 3″ kit such as this one be able to run 35×13.5R20’s?
Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ to be exact???
Hi Jason, since the JK is not mine, I can’t give you specifics but from what Mark has told me, there is some power loss but not as bad as he would have tought. Also, I’m pretty sure he got the computer flash TSB done and maybe this helped as well.
Hi J.Ward, the tires are in fact 35×12.50’s but you should be able to run 13.50’s no problem assuming you have wheels with less back spacing (maybe 4.5″ or less) or wheel spacers installed.
Eddie
I am thinking about getting this kit for my 2003 TJ, do you feel like all the comments above apply? I have heard good things about this kit for the TJ…just seeing if you agree.
Yes, I run a Full Traction 6″ Long Arm kit on my TJ now and can tell you that they make some of the best lift kits available on the market today.
Eddie
Has this lift effected any of the ESP or ERM Systems.
No. So long as you recenter your steering wheel, you should have no problems with the ESP or ERM systems.
Eddie
Part 2 of my questions? With the Full Traction 3 Inch lift, should a SYE and new drive shaft be purchased? Also should adjustable rear upper control arms be purchased with the kit?
Hey Tony, if you’re asking about the 3″ lift for the JK, you will not need an SYE/CV driveshaft or adjustable rear upper control arms. If you’re asking about a TJ lift, please email me at eddie@4x4xplor.com and I will be more than happy to help you there 🙂
Eddie
I just recently purchased a 2007 Wrangler X and was looking to put a 2″ body kit on it with some 33″ tires (305/70/16). Would you reccommend this/would it fit?
Hi John, is it safe to assume you meant to say “body lift”? If so, I wouldn’t recommend anything taller than a 1″ kit and yes, they should allow you to install 33’s. Or, if you installed a 2″ “budget boost” (coil spacer), that would do the trick too. 🙂
Eddie
Thinking of purchasing a JK. But it must be a “pimp”. With your configuration, what is the overall height of the vehicle. Can’t have it sitting out in the Missouri weather.
Thanks,
Trey
Hey Trey, if you’re refering to the height to the top of the roof, it’s about 6-1/2 feet.
Eddie
Cool JK. Gotta git me one of those.
Hey Eddie, I am installing the 3″ FT Ultimate lift with the same tires.. Actually 35×12.5×17 using the stock wheels.. Do you think I will be able to just use 1.5″ wheel spaces and not have an issue.. Thanks.. Jay
Hi Jay, yes, you should be just fine with the 1.5″ spacers. 🙂
Eddie
Just bought a 07 Wrangler X and looking to put on the 3″ lift above. Does this lift omit the warrenty?
Dumb question – can anyone offer help on how to “re-center” my steering wheel? I hit something rather hard the other day and my steering wheel rotated about 90 degrees – in its current position, it obstructs my view of the speedometer. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Hi Mike,
No, this lift should not omit the warranty on your Jeep.
Hey Chris,
In all honesty, you really need to have your suspension components examined carefully. If a hit caused your steering to change that much, there is a good chance that you have damaged something like a bent control arm or drag link or something.
Eddie
Eddie will the electronic sway bar disconnect system up front, still work? What replaces the rear sway bar? I want to lift my new Rubicon but I still want everything to work like factory as much as possible.
Hi Shane, Yes the e-discos work just fine. As you may or may not have read, the rear links come up front and then the rears are replaced with new links.
Eddie
i want to lift my 07 rubi but i don’t want to replace any parts that i don’t have to. it comes with some pretty good factory specs. i just want a 3 to 4 lift to keep my winch dry. what lift and size tires do you recommend
Hey Eddie
I have ordered 3″ Ulitimate FT lift kit with M force momotube gas shocks. I am also putting micket thompson 35″ with 17″ mickey thompson wheels plus i am repalcing the front stock bumper with Mopar steel tubular bumper, is this OK will i have any issues like rubbing or any thing i should be craeful off not to forget i am converting the kit from left handdrive to right hand drive on my JK
Hi Nick,
The Full Traction 3″ Economy lift will allow you to install 35″ tires and will get you to where you want to be without changing too many parts. If you can afford to get the Premium or Ultimate lift instead, you will replace more parts but will also be able to dial in your ride a lot better.
Hi Zak,
You should be fine with this setup so long as you make sure to get your wheels with 4.5″ of back spacing. And, depending on the actual measurement of your 35’s go, you may need to trim the body pinch seam in the rear to prevent rubbing of your tread.
Eddie
First off great write up! Second what did you guys do to correct the castor angle?? Did you use realignment cams or nothing at all?
In my opinion, cam bolts are a terrible solution for correcting caster. They require the notching out of your control arm axle mounts and make it difficult to keep the bolts tight especially if you ever decide to upgrade to adjustable control arms in the future. And, to answer your question specifically, we installed a set of Full Traction adjustable upper control arms and shortened the lenght of them by about 3/8″ (max possible) to bring the caster angle back to about 4-5°.
Eddie
Hi thanks for the great articles, but the pictures really bring each step togather for me. I am looking real hard at this and the tera-flex 3 inch kit, can they both be upgraded and does this mean that the difference in the kits is lack of adjustable contol arms and track bar.
I have a 2007 2 door X JK. I got confused by the question and answer above.
Is a drive line replacement/modification required when lifting the JK with this kit?
I will be replacing my 16 inch JK X wheels with 17 inch JK Rubicon wheels, will that be ok?
Does the full featured kit include the adjustable control arms to make alignment easier?
Question about the bump stop for the fronts. I installed the fronts today.. but the spring doesn’t seem to fit around it properly. Are they even necessary? I have not seen many kits with this.. and I am thinking of just removing them all together. (CA1003)
Also, could you explain how to re-center the steering wheel when it is all complete?
Thank you for the awesome write up!!
Great write-up… really made the process go very smoothly.
Before:
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After:
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n70/lnolte/100_2647.jpg
I HAVE JUST ORDERED A 07 4DR RUBY.CAN U GUYS RECCOMEND THE BEST WAY TO LIFT? 35 INCH TIRES ARE THE PREFERED TIRE SIZE.I WANT THE LIFT TO BE DONE RIGHT AS FAR AS PERFORMANCE GOES.WHAT GEARS ARE RECOMMENDED TO GET FACTORY PERFORMANCE?
Lawrence, What lift and tire package did you install? Looks great!!!!
Eddie,
I have a 07 4-door and was looking at the same setup but maybe with Cooper tires. Do you have any info on how your upgrade changed the MPH, acceleration and breaking performance? Also, how is the ride, stiff or bouncy? What about the third break light, any adjustments to get it to fit?
Any recommendations on where to get the tires?
P.S. GREAT Writeup!
Hi David,
Yes, this kit is just lacking new adjustable control arms and track bars. Otherwise, it is completely upgradable.
Hi Bill,
New drive lines are not required with this lift and your new wheels will work just fine. As far the Ultimate kit goes, yes, it comes with all the control arms and track bars you will need to dial in your ride.
Hi Josh,
Yes, the bump stops are absolutely necessary to prevent the over compression of your coils. Kits that don’t come with them are incomplete and I would not recommend using them. As far as recentering the steering wheel goes, please follow step 57.
Hi Lawrence,
Great shots, thanks for sharing!
Hi Sidney,
The best way to lift your Jeep is to install a Full Traction Ultimate lift. This will give you everything you need to dial in your ride and will clear 35″ tires just fine. As far as gears go, you’ll want 4.88’s to get you back to where you want to be.
Hi Dale,
Unfortunately, there is no fix for the speedo at this time. Unless you regear, you will feel a noticable loss in power with 35’s. Breaking is the same. Regarding the ride, it is in my opinion better than stock – firm but not harsh and extremely flexable on the trail. Also, the 3rd brake light still fits fine. As far as where to get tires go, I would recommend checking out http://www.4WD.com
Eddie
Eddie Great job and info!I will have a 2dr sahara next week(6spd).I will use 285/75 16s trxss or toyoMCs with a 2in. lift.I use it everyday to work,with about 40mi xway.What way did your mpg go with gear reduction via larger tires?I could use an idea about a lift kit(2in).Thanks,Iwill send before&aft pics.Len
Hi Len,
Unfortunately, with bigger tires comes some reduction in MPG. It just can’t be helped. Also, I went with 5.13’s to gain a bit more power and so for me, my MPG went down even more. However, since you are only going with 285’s, you might want to just stick with your stock gearing.
Eddie
Eddie,
You mentioned the adjustable track bar would help. What type of driving problem would this correct? I installed the Skyjacker 2.5″ lift with Nitro shocks on my JK Unlimited. The kit does not come with a front track bar relocation bracket and Skyjacker insists it is not needed. I also installed the Skyjacker sway bar disconnect links which have simple eurothane through links as opposed to the factory swivel joint up top. Lift came out close to 2.75″. Unfortunately, my ride quality is significantly worse. I had it re-aligned at the dealer but it doesn’t track well. ESP kicks in quite often during constant radius turns like a freeway on ramp. It looks like the front wheels are up to 1/2″ shifted to the driver side due to the track bar. Do you think the adjustable track bar would correct this? Also, do I need a better quality disconnect link? Wish I had gone with Full Traction.
Thanks, Bill
Hi Bill,
The adjustable track bar will allow you to recenter your axle and it will help correct the tracking problems you are experiencing. Regarding the swaybar links, they are fine and are typical of what most aftermarket manufacturers use as they are a stronger setup although they can become squeaky. And, as far as the ESP goes, would it be safe to say you have a 2-door? If so, I find this to be a common problem with them and not the 4-doors.
Eddie
Thanks Eddie for your quick response. I’ll give an adjustable track bar a try. I actually have the 4 door.
Wayoflife, i’ll be installing an RE BB kit this weekend, and for the front shocks, i need to re-use the metal sleeve from the stock front shocks mount.
Removing the bar pin is easy with a bench vise since it’s sticking out. Do you have any suggestion on removing the stock metal sleeve from the stock shocks?
thanks for the input
Hi Steve, sorry but removing the factory metal sleeves is near impossible. Believe me, I have tried. The most I can suggest is to use a bench vice and something close to the same diameter to press it out. Good luck.
Eddie