Instructions
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This is a pic of all the parts you should get with your new Full Traction Suspension Jeep JK Wrangler 3″ Economy Lift Kit. Take some time to make sure you have all the parts shown as well as all the tools listed on the left prior to starting this project. |
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1. Park your Jeep JK Wrangler on a level surface, chock your rear tires, raise the front end of it one side at a time from the axle using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts. |
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2. Remove the wheels off your Jeep JK Wrangler using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under front the axle to help support it. |
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3. Using a 5/8″ wrench, hold your Jeep JK Wrangler’s shock can in place just below the upper shock mount to keep it from spinning. Then, remove the stud mount nut above using a 16mm wrench. |
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4. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front shocks to the lower axle mount. |
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| 5. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. |
6. Using an 18mm socket and a 19mm wrench to hold the ball joint in place, remove the nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front sway bar links to the front sway bar itself. Allow the sway bar to dangle in place. |
7. Remove the bolt securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front track bar to the front axle mount using a 21mm socket. This can be a tough bolt to remove and an impact wrench or breaker bar will help to make this job easier. Once removed, set aside the flagged nut and leave the track bar attached to the frame. |
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8. Carefully lower your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front axle until the factory front coils can be slipped out of the upper perch and be removed completely with ease. |
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| 9. With the front coils removed, clean off the lower spring perch, place one of the CA1003 2�X3� Aluminum Bump Stop Extension that came with the Full Traction kit on top of it and use it as a template to mark off the location of the center hole. |
10. Set aside the CA1003 2�X3� Aluminum Bump Stop Extension and mark the center of where you will need to drill with a center punch and hammer. |
11. The space you’ll have to work with is limited and you may find that removing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rubber bump stops will help to give you a bit more room to get a hand drill under it straight. To remove the bump stop, simply grab it and pull firmly till it pops off. |
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| 12. Use a 1/8″ metal drilling bit to make a pilot hole in the center of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front lower spring perches. |
13. Drill out the pilot holes you just made in your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front lower spring perches using an 11/32″ metal drilling bit. |
14. Using a 9/16″ socket and one of the 3/8″x2-1/2″ self-tapping bolts provided with the Full Traction kit, slowly thread the holes you just drilled out by ratcheting the bolt on. Make sure to back out often and take your time. |
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| 15. Reinstall the factory rubber bump stop if you had removed it, work your new Full Traction coil over it and begin positioning it over the lower spring perch. Even with your front axle sitting as low as it can go, this task may still prove to be a bit difficult as the new coils are significantly taller than stock. You may want to use a set of spring compressors to assist you here. |
16. Slip in a CA1003 2â€?X3â€? Aluminum Bump Stop Extension up under the new Full Traction front coils just as you seat it onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower spring perch. |
17. Insert the 3/8″x2-1/2″ self-tapping bolt through the middle of the Aluminum Bump Stop Extension and secure it in place using a 9/16″ socket, a 3″ ratchet extension and working through the coils. Tighten the bolt to 30 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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18. Depending on what shocks you decided to get with your Full Traction 3″ Economy Lift Kit, you may find that bar pins will have been pre-installed into the lower shock bushing. If this is the case with your shocks, you’ll need to remove them and replace them with the metal sleeves that’ll be included with the shock hardware. A bench vice will help out a lot to press out the existing bar pin enough for you to pry it out and it will help you to press in the new metal sleeves. |
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| 19. Assemble one of the large cupped washers onto your front shock mounting stud so that the concave side is facing up and then follow it up with one of the polyurethane bushings with the stepped side facing up. |
20. Slip the front shock mounting stud up into your Jeep JK Wrangler’s upper mount, slide on the other polyurethane bushing with the stepped sided pointing down and then cap it off with the other cupped washer. |
21. Secure the front shock mounting stud in place with the new nut and jam nut that should have been provided with shock. You will need either (2) 17mm wrenches to do this or an 11/16″ will make a good substitute. Tighten this nut to 17 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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22. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, secure your front shocks to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s axle mount using the factory hardware and tighten the nut and bolt to 56 ft. lbs. of torque. |
| NOTE: If you’ve purchased a Full Traction Adjustable Front Track Bar, click on the link below for installation instructions:
Otherwise, continue on to step #23 below.
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23. Install the 50-7127 Front Trac Bar Bracket into your Jeep JK Wrangler’s factory axle mount, slide in the 1-1/8″x 14mm CA1020 Trac Bar Bracket Crush Spacer between the bracket and then loosely secure everything in place using the factory track bar bolt and flagged nut. |
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24. Using a 1/2″ socket and wrench, install the longer 5/16″x2-3/4″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut through the outside track bar mount hole closest to the passenger side wheel on your Jeep JK Wrangler. Then, install the shorter 5/16″x3/4″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut through the inside bracket hole as shown in the sample photo to the left. |
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25. Tighten the factory track bar mount bolt to 125 ft. lbs. of torque and then tighten the 5/16″ side support bolts to 45-50 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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26. With the engine off, put your key in the ignition, make sure that the steering wheel is unlocked and then have a friend turn it in one direction or the other until you can line up your Jeep JK Wrangler’s track bar with the mounting hole on the 50-7127 Front Trac Bar Bracket. Then, secure it in place by installing the 9/16″x3″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut supplied with the kit. |
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27. Using a 7/8″ wrench and a 13/16″ socket, tighten your Jeep JK Wrangler front track bar to the 50-7127 Front Trac Bar Bracket to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. |
| 28. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front wheels, lower it back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque, remove the wheel chocks from the rear and place them up front. |
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29.
Lift the rear end up from the differential using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts. Remove the wheels off your Jeep JK Wrangler using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under front the axle to help support it. |
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| 30. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. |
31. Using an 18mm socket and a 19mm wrench to hold the ball joint in place, remove the nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear sway bar links to the rear sway bar itself. Allow the sway bar to dangle in place. |
32. Using a 16mm socket and a 12″ ratchet extension, loosen one of the two upper shock mount bolts and then completely remove the other. |
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| 33. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear shocks to the lower axle mounts. Then, remove the shocks completely by sliding them out of the remaining loosened upper mount bolts. |
34. Remove the rear track bar bolt and nut from your Jeep JK Wrangler’s upper frame mount using a 21mm socket and a crescent wrench. As was the case with the front track bar, this can be a tough bolt to remove and a breaker bar will help to make this job easier. |
35. Loosely install the 50-740504 Rear Track Bar Bracket onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear frame mount using one of the 9/16″x3″ grade 8 bolt to hold it in place. Using the bracket as a template, measure 1-3/4″ up from the center of bottom hole to locate where you will need to drill out the upper hole on the factory mount. |
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36. Remove the 50-740504 Rear Track Bar Bracket and position it over your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear track bar frame mount to double check the accuracy of the drilling point mark you made. |
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| 37. Mark the center of where you will need to drill with a center punch and hammer. |
38. Use a 1/8″ metal drilling bit to make a pilot hole in your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear track bar frame mount. |
39. Drill out the pilot hole you just created using a 1/2″ metal drilling bit. |
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40. Reinstall the 50-740504 Rear Track Bar Bracket onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear frame mount and secure it in place by fastening a 1/2″x1-1/4″ grade 8 bolt, washer and nut to the top bolt hole. You will need to use a 3/4″ socket and wrench for this job. Tighten this bolt and lock nut to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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41. Install the 50-740505 Rear Track Bar Strap Bracket over your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear frame mount and secure it in place by fastening a 1/2″x1-1/4″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut to the bottom bolt hole. You will need to use a 3/4″ socket and wrench for this job. Tighten this bolt and lock nut to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. Then, loosely install the 9/16″x3″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut through the rear frame mount holding both sides of the strap in place. This bolt will be tightened after you reinstall the rear track bar. |
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| 42. Unhook your Jeep JK Wrangler’s emergency brake cables from the hanger bolted on the bottom of the tub. Or, you can unbolt the hanger all together. This is necessary in order for you to get your rear axle to droop enough to install your new coils. |
43. Using a 10mm socket, unbolt the rear brake line brackets which are fastened to the outside frame rails of your Jeep JK Wrangler. Leave them dangling at this time. |
44. Slowly lower your rear axle being mindful of the ESP wiring. If they get too tight, you may want to clip the plastic ties holding them in place and then zip tie them back on later. Once your axle is dropped low enough, your factory coils should just about fall out and can be removed with ease. Set aside the upper rubber isolators as they will be reused. |
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45. Place the factory rubber isolator on top of your new Full Traction coils and install them on the rear of your Jeep JK Wrangler making sure that the isolators and coils are properly seated in their perches. Again, this may prove to be a bit difficult especially on the passenger side if you have a 2-Door JK as the gas tank is in the way and a set of spring compressors should help to make this job easier to do. |
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46. Using a 10mm socket and the factory hardware, install the CA2007 (driver side) and CA2008
(passenger side) Brake Line Extension Brackets, onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s frame rails. |
47. Secure your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear brake lines to the new extension brackets using the 1/4″x3/4″ bolts, washers and lock nuts provided with the kit. You will need a 7/16″ socket and wrench for this job. |
48. Place the (2) 50-7101 Rear Bump Stop Blocks on top your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear axle bump pads and secure them in place using the 3/8″x3/4″ bolts, washers and nuts provided with the kit. You will need (2) 9/16″ wrenchs for the job but a 14mm wrench will act as a good substitute. |
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49. Using an 18mm socket and 19mm wrench install the new 70-4175 12� Straight Rear Sway Bar Links onto your factory sway bar using the 12x60mm bolts and nuts provided with the kit. |
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50. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, secure the new 70-4175 12� Straight Rear Sway Bar Links to the lower axle mounts using the factory hardware. |
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51. Install your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear factory track bar into the new 50-740504 Rear Track Bar Bracket and secure it in place using the 9/16″x3″ grade 8 bolt, washer and nut provided with the kit. Tighten both the bracket strap bolt and track bar bolt hand tight for now and up to 125 ft. lbs. of torque once your Jeep is back on the ground with the full weight of the vehicle on it. You will need a 13/16″ socket and a 7/8″ wrench for this job. |
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52. Make sure your new rear shocks have the appropriate bar pin installed. Then, using a 16mm socket and a 12″ ratchet extension, install them onto the rear upper shock mounts on your Jeep JK Wrangler using the factory hardware. Tighten these bolts to 37 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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53. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, install your new rear shocks onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower axle mounts using the factory hardware. Tighten these bolts to 56 ft. lbs. of torque. |
| 54. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear wheels, lower it back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque and make sure to tighten both the rear track bar bolt and bracket strap bolt to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. Remove the wheel chocks from the front. |
Jeep JK Wrangler X & Sahara Models
If you have a Jeep JK Wrangler X or Sahara, proceed to install the FTS306071 JK NEW GEN. Front Sway Bar Link Kit using the new 12mmx65mm bolts and nuts provided with the kit up top and the factory hardware for the lower axle mount.Jeep JK Wrangler Rubicon Models
Mark’s Jeep JK Wrangler is a Rubicon edition and because it has an electronic sway bar disconnect system up front, the Full Traction disconnect links should not be installed. Instead, you will need to take your old factory rear sway bar links and install them onto your front sway bar. Needless to say, the rest of this installation write-up will be from the perspective of a Rubicon model. |
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55. Using an 18mm socket and a 19mm wrench to hold the ball joint in place, install the nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear sway bar links to the front sway bar itself. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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56. Using the factory hardware, secure the rear sway bar links to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower front axle mounts and tighten them to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. You will need an 18mm socket and wrench to do this job. |
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57. You will now need to re-center your steering wheel as it will now be off. Using a 15mm wrench, loosen the 2 nuts on the turnbuckle as shown in the pic to the left. Then, rotate the turnbuckle clockwise or counter clockwise as needed while a friend watches the steering wheel (or you periodically check on it yourself) go back to center. Once re-centered, secure the nuts and take it for a drive to check your steering wheel. This may take a few tries to get it on 100% but that’s all there is to it. |
| ATTENTION: For people who will be keeping their factory wheels, you will need to install your rear sway bar links on the inside as shown in the photos below. This is required because the back spacing on the factory wheels will cause your wheel weights and/or wheels themselves to rub on the upper link bolts. |
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That’s it, you’re done. You now have a 3″ taller Jeep JK Wrangler that’s ready to stand on a set of new 35″ tires. Please let me know if you have any questions. |
Additional Photos
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| After |
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| After with 35″ Toyo Open Country M/T’s |
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Thanks WOL. One more question. On your direction above, you drilled a 11/32″ hole for the 3/8 self tapping screw (front bumpstop).
However, on my RE BB kit, the direction is to put a 5/16″ hole instead for the 3/8 self tapping screw.
What is your suggestion?
thanks
Hi Steve,
Yes, you can use a 5/16″ bit but it will take a little more effort to get the hole tapped. An 11/32″ hole will make it easier.
Eddie
Hey there,
How is the Way Of Life?
Thanks for all of the help. I was a bit lost before I found Project-jk.com. I am new to Jeep, just bought my first (’07 ‘X’), never did much off roading…’till now. I was thinking of upgrading to the Full Traction 3″ Eco kit along with some Pro Comp 35 XT M/T. Is this a bit much for a ‘beginner’? Any advice? Again thanks for all of the help…keep on keepin’ on!
-John
One more thing, when purchasing the Full Traction kit you have the options of: No Shocks, 5100 Hydraulic Shocks, or M-Force Gas Monotube Shocks, is it better to go aheah and purchase shocks with the kit or purchase them on by themselves?
Thanks again,
-John
Shock question… I noticed that you installed the rear shocks upside down. There a reason for that? Also, you don’t mention but did you need to use the stock sleeve hardware for the rear lower mount? The one that came with my shocks weren’t as long as the stock ones. Also, I’m a little concerned because the stock sleeves are a little thick in the OD and cause the rubber bushings to bulge out a bit. Should I contact Full Traction for the correct sleeves?
Hey John, I’m glad to know that my website has been helpful to you. Regarding the upgrade you want and you being a beginner goes, my advice to you is to follow my write-up and let me know if you have any questions and you’ll be just fine. As far as shocks go, I would recommend you getting the M-Force set at the time you purchase your lift 🙂
Hi Dale, M-Force shocks are high pressure gas charged shocks and need to be installed can up. As far as the sleeves go, I just used the ones that came with the shocks and have had no problems with them.
Eddie
I JUST PUT THE 2 INCH LIFT ON MY 07 RUBICON AND THEN I SAW YOUR WRITE UP ON THE 3 INCH ONE. YOUR RIGHT ON WITH EVERY DETAIL INCLUDING THE SHOCK MOUNTS. (THEY DIDN`T COME WITH THE SLEEVES SO I USED THE ONES OFF THE STOCK SHOCKS) MY QUESTION IS HAS ANYONE FOUND A FIX FOR THAT ESP PROBLEM. EVERY THING IS WITHIN SPECS, THE STEERING WHEELS CENTERED BUT IT COMES ON AT ANY CURVE OVER 40 MPH. YEH IT`S THE 2 DOOR. THANKS…..CHUCK
Hey Chuck, is it safe to say that you have a 2″ coil spacer lift? If so, would it also be safe to say that you have a Sahara or X? If so, I have found that the Sahara and X model coils are much softer that Rubicon’s and that lends itself to more body roll. This in turn triggers the ESP.
Eddie
on step (27. Using a 7/8″ wrench and a 13/16″ socket, tighten your Jeep JK Wrangler front track bar to the 50-7127 Front Trac Bar Bracket to 125 ft. lbs. of torque.) Is it me or is it this type of “lock nut” that the treads on the bolt don’t seem to match up with the nut? Took the bolt to lowes and found a grade 8 nut that threaded up nice but haven’t installed it yet thinking for some reason that nut should be like that?? Maybe I just got a lame one…
Eddie,
Did miss something? Where did you mention how to install the new front sway bar disconnects? Do the bolt go from the outside to the inside? Do I use stock hardware or new?
Also I wanted to mention that the disconnects are NOT impressive at all. The nuts or bolts need a wider flange for the bushings and they are loose and noisy, even when torched to 75 ft lbs. The pins are too long and hit on the spring perches.
My kit came with the Hydro shocks but like I said before, the bottom sleeves that came with it aren’t as wide as the stock and they are thicker.
Thanks,
Dale
Eddie,
My bad, I found it at the end of the write up after step 54. In any case I am thinking about going to JKS disconnects. They seem to be much better made and easier to remove and install.
http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=QRDISC&Store_Code=JKS01&Category_Code=Swaybar_Disconnects
Thanks,
Dale
What lift would you reccomend for running 33’s? keep in mind this will be a daily driver and I want the best ride quality. It would seem that this 3″ lift woukld be overkill for 33’s. i have read that Rubicon Express is coming out with a 2″ complete coil system kit, not just there coil spacers.
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Hi Dale,
Yes, the disconnects that come with the FT kit are sufficient at best and I think you’ll be much happier with the JKS discos you are looking at.
Hi David,
Although all you really need is a 2″ lift to clear 33’s, this kit is not an over kill at all. Certainly, a friend of mine is running this setup now and gets amazing flex. If you are considering it, I would recommend it.
Eddie
How does this kit feel for daily driving..Highway, city, etc…. Compared to stock ride and feel? Also, would you reccomend economy, or go all out. (Biggest fear for me is future alignment issues or driveshaft vibration. Spending 35,000 on a JK, I would want to augment the suspension not make it feel bad.)
Thanks again for the feedback.
Hi David,
In all honesty, I think the ride is as good if not better than stock especially if you have a Sahara or X as their coils and shocks tend to feel too mushy for my taste. And, if you can afford to go all out and get an Ultimate Lift, I would highly recommend it as it will allow you to dial in your suspension to where it needs to be at this height. But, if you cannot afford it, going the Economy route is a great way to start and you can always upgrade as money allows.
Eddie
Last question: Does this lift correct the RAKe on the Rubicon? also, if I put a AEV bumper, AEV skidplate, and winch, will that be significant weight to use a spacer to correct sag, or will the lift correct rake and sag?
Thank you kindly for feedback
P.S. Im assuming the ultimate would be better for articulation and alignment and driveshaft vibration v.s. Ecomony, or will Economy lift do well for alignment and articulation as well.
thanks again
One other thing I forgot to add in my previous post, Will a 3: lift plus spacer in front need a dropped pitman arm for the steering?
Hi David,
If you decide to get a Full Traction 3″ lift, make sure to request heavy duty coils with it (this is a free upgrade) as it will help compensate for the extra weight of your bumper and winch. As far as the difference between lift kits goes, yes, the Ultimate kit will allow you to dial in your suspension so that you can correct your caster angles, pinion angles and reposition your axles under your Jeep. Of course, the new joints will also provide greater articulation. Last but not least, a dropped pitman arm is only needed for 4″ of lift or greater.
Eddie
Do you know which vendor honors the free coil upgrade? I have only seen quadratec on the internet that hase the Ultimate version. 4 wheel parts and 4 wheel drive have only the economy and premium. Any suggestions as to where to get the Ultimat for best price. I am a member of JKforum.com and jeepforum.com and I havent seen any vendor advertise the ultimate
Thank you kindly for all your help.
Hi David, I don’t know about anyone else but I do know that Northridge4x4 will for sure and they definitely have the Ultimate kit: http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=FTS-7133
Eddie
Eddie
OK…I do have a 2 dr. Rubicon and I did install Full Traction’s 3″ Ultimate suspension with 315/75/16 DC Mud Countries (35’s). Every thing has been aligned and adjusted. Every thing is fine except that ESP. Left on, the vehicle jerks and jerks through just about any moderate turn on road. Turned off, it’s worse or must kick itself back on automatically. The little “vehicle in a sway” icon flashes on the dash. So…is there a cure?
Thanks for any ideas or help.
Brad
Hey Brad,
I have found that the lighter weight of a 2-door will yield you a taller than 3″ lift. And, because of it and your shorter wheel base, the ESP will tend to kick on more. Some of the things you can do to address this is: 1) make sure your steering wheel is centered for sure 2) run high pressure gas charged shocks if you don’t already have them. The steering wheel is a given but the some of the body sway can be addressed with a firmer shock.
Eddie
Thanks for the quick reply. The steering is “dead on”. And I’m running Full Traction’s best gas shock. I went around a turn today at about 30 mph and did cause a momentary jam up behind me and a potential accident. I had to slow to almost a stop to regain control. Very scarey! I might have thought twice if I had known about this before. Isn’t there anyway to just totally disconnect this all together? I mean…I was driving raised CJ5’s in the late 60’s and early 70’s and I never had a problem on the road without all these assists in the vehicle. Sure…the potential to roll a raised vehicle can be there…if you drive it like a Mazda Miata! You leave space for emergency swerving and your braking distances increase, but you should slow the h&*^ll down too!
Sorry…just venting my “Big Brother Vehicle Assists” that are in certain vehicles I don’t think need it or should at least be optional for those morons that buy a Jeep and don’t know how to drive it!
Thanks,
Brad
I have a rubicon 2-door and I did install full traction 3″ lift system. with 35×12.50 toyo tires on 17×8 wheels
how can I know if the (oem) elecronic sway bar disconnet system works properly?
is there any chance it will stop working with the full traction lift system ?
because I feel the artuculation to short…..
Thanks
Hi Brad, you know, I’m not entirely sure what to tell you. If you don’t mind me asking, are you sure you have your lower control arms adjusted out long enough to reposition your axles under your Jeep and what do you have your caster set at? At this height, you really want to be running close to +7°. Also, Mark, the guy who’s JK you see in this write-up ended up with a lift that was clearly closer to 4″ or more and while he doesn’t seem to have as many problems as you are experiencing, I’m starting to wonder if maybe what he needs is a dropped pitman arm to rid him of any ESP issues.
Eddie
Hi javier, so long as you have new longer links installed, you will not have any problems with your e-disco system.
Eddie
Eddie
Thanks for all the great work and effort you have put forth, it is much appreciated. I have a 3″ FT econo lift on order and I am anxiously awaiting it. I’m currently running a 1 3/4″ spacer front and back and was contemplating using both of these concurrently. do you have any concerns about this? Would I need a drop pitman arm? What can be done about the front brake and sensor line? Seems like the front ones get real tight and I’m afraid I’ll damage them. I’m running 33’s but will run 35’s, I jus think that the extra heigh might look great.
Hi Dan, Running both the 3″ coils and 1.75″ spacers will yield you close to 5″ of lift and in my opinion, that is way too high for 35’s and maybe even for the factory control arms. At the bare minimum, you would need to address your brake lines, ESP sensors, get a dropped pitman arm, get and adjustable front/rear track bar and maybe even a drop bracket for them, longer shocks and swaybar links.
Eddie
Hi Eddy, Great write-up. I am looking to go with the Rubicon Express 2″ spacer kit(monotubes) with 33’s. I am mainly going for the look and am extremely concerned about keeping the stock ride and power the same.
1. Would you recommend this set-up?
2. What size wheel and backspacing would you recommend?
3. Will I notice much of a power reduction with a 4.10/automatic?
4. If Rubicon Express comes out with a 2″ coil system, would this be better than the 2″ spacer system?
Thanks, Steve
Hi Steve,
Sure, a coils spacer lift is pretty much a coil spacer lift and although the RE kit may not be 2.5″ tall, I do believe it is designed to level out your factory rake if this is a concern of your. If you go with this setup, I think you will find that 33″ tires is about a big as you’ll want to go and if you get new wheels to match, I would recommend going 4.75″ – 4.5″ of back spacing. With 33’s, you will not see much power reduction and would not see the need to regear. Now, if you’re sure you will never go any higher than 2″ of lift and are willing to spend the cash, a 2″ coil system would always be the better way to go and I would wait for Old Man Emu to come out with something as they are typically the king of 2″ coil systems.
Eddie
Thanks Eddy. Mickey Thompson has a Classic Lock wheel that I really like (should be out in the next month or so), however it has a backspacing of 5″. M/T claims that this wheel is made specifically for the JK and that it should not be a problem. Do you see any issues with the 5″ backspacing?
Steve
Nope, no issues at all. Factory is 6.25″ and 5″ will be a great fit.
Eddie
Hi Eddie, I put on Full Tractions 2″ spacer lift kit on my 07 X today. I staightened my steering wheel but I notice the wheel turns right when I accelerate and turns left when I decelerate. It doesn’t move when I am braking. Also it does this in 2 wheel and 4 wheel drive. Any idea what is causing this?
Thanks Rex
Hi Rex, did you install the track bar relocation bracket that comes with the kit? If so, try removing it and see if you still have the problem.
Eddie
Hi Eddie, Removing the bracket did the trick. It steers great now. I had assumed that the lift needed the bracket since it came with the kit. Thanks for yor help.
Hey Eddie,
I have the same problem as Rex with the acceleration and deceleration problem. The only thing is I have the full traction 3 inch economy kit. Would you offer me the same advice with my kit.
Thanks Frank.
Hi Frank, yes, I would. Try removing the track bar relocation bracket and I think you will find that it helps out a lot.
Eddie
Hi Eddie,
Would that be for both front and rear track bar relocation brackets? And also I measured both front and rear axles and they both seem to be off to the left. Would removing both front and rear track bar relocation brackets fix the problem or would I have to purchase front and rear adjustable track bars? By the way I have a 2 door jk rubicon with a 3 inch full traction economy lift w/full traction gas shocks and MT 17 BY 9inch rims and BFG MT 35 by 12.50 tires. Thanks.
Frank…
The ESP. I put 285’s on mine and the light would come on and the brakes start pumping. The dealership has zero clue to fix this and says they are coming out with a flash to fix it. However, I had to take them off and put the smaller tires back on it and now do not like it as much. I am no expert in Jeeps, so what should I do to get this fixed??? Thanks
Nate
Hi Frank, you just want to remove the front. Leave the rear one on.
Hi Nate, did you make sure to get your steering wheel completely centered after installing this lift?
Eddie
Eddie-
The answer to your questions is no. I only put the tires on it and took it to the dealer..i figured they would know what to do. Apparently not. They keep telling me there is a flash coming to eliminate it, but I was hoping there would be a quicker way. Also, I am having a hard time finding parts for the JK..any suggestions? What about selling parts? ( bumpers and flares) I greatly appreciate all your help. Finally, they did tellme that I could pull the fuse, but that disengages the ABS…Help!
Nate
Hi Nate, I really would try to recenter your steering wheel first and then go from there. It is easy to do as all you need to do is follow step #57. That should take care of most if not all of your problems.
As far as parts go, it’s pretty much hard to find anything right now as there is so much demand for them and not enough supply. Hopefully this will change in a year or two.
Eddie
I bought my son a Jeep Wrangler new in I think 2004. Recently we took it to Four Wheel Parts in Orlando FL. to install a small lift and four new wide tires that extended out. I obviosly don’t know much about this stuff but after installation the jeep looked awesome and my son was very happy. The problem is that after driving the car for a short time we noticed it rattled. So I took it back to have it fixed. The shop said it is called the “death rattle” which scared the crap out of me as i thought i was making my son’s jeep safer. The shop says that this can’t be fixed and the was no way to know that this would occur, it just does sometimes. Please advise , should I put the jeep back to the way it was and eat the cost which was a few thousand as I also bought extras.
Hi Patty,
To be honest, this website is dedicated to 2007+ Jeep Wrangler’s but I do know a thing or two about 1997-2006 Jeeps as well. And, what I can tell you is that the shop you are taking your Jeep to doesn’t know what the heck they are talking about. If you would like, please contact me by email at: eddie@project-jk.com
I would be more than happy to assist you in any way that I can.
Sincerely,
Eddie
Eddie,
I have a 3″ Full Traction Economy Lift with front and rear adjustable track bars. I thought the lift was installed well, it was done by a local shop here in Phoenix, but today went I went to install my new tires, and one of the front tires I was taking off was wearing very strange (cupped). A friend told me that my Jeep was likely out of alignment and that was the reason for the cupping of the tires. I paid for an alignment with the install and the tech told me, “that is as straight as we can get it without new lower control arms.” He told me that he liked the Teraflex lift over the Full Traction because he could not get a good alignment with the Full Traction Lifts.
I have a feeling my lift was not done properly. Additionally, I am hearing noises now from my Jeep that I didn’t hear previously, clicking noises when I go over bumps, and other things. Is there anything that I can do or check to make sure my lift was installed properly. Unfortunately, I am new to this…and I am not very familiar with working on my own stuff.
Thanks,
Darin
Due to the steering design of the JK, your toe in will not have changed and the only alignment that your shop would have been able to do is recenter your axles and steering wheel. Caster would not have been able to be addressed as you do not have adjustable control arms. Now, if you’re tire is wearing funny and only on one side, it is possible that your front axle is slightly bent at the “C”. This is actually a common problem with JK’s when running larger tires and is something I myself have on the passenger side. The problem essentially is that your wheel has camber to it and this is typically not possible on a solid axle unless it is bent.
Eddie
If i have a 3″ BDS suspension lift and with 33″ tires, would i have to do anything to the driveline if i added a 2″ spacer kit to run 35″ tires?
Sorry………. I have a 2000 TJ.
Hi Tyler, especially since you have a TJ, you will need to install an SYE/CV driveshaft as well as adjustable rear upper control arms so that you can set your pinion angle. Without these, you will have MAJOR vibrations. In fact, at 5″ of lift, you really will need a host of other things as well including an adjustable front track bar and drop bracket, rear track bar drop bracket, adjustable upper front control arms to dial in your caster, dropped pit man arm, extended brake lines front and rear and bump stop extensions if you don’t already have them. In truth, 5″ of lift on a TJ is in my opinion a bad idea unless you are going long arm. Need I say, I wouldn’t advise what you are planning to do.
Eddie
ok thanks