Instructions
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This is a pic of all the parts you should get with your new Full Traction Suspension Jeep JK Wrangler 3″ Economy Lift Kit. Take some time to make sure you have all the parts shown as well as all the tools listed on the left prior to starting this project. |
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1. Park your Jeep JK Wrangler on a level surface, chock your rear tires, raise the front end of it one side at a time from the axle using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts. |
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2. Remove the wheels off your Jeep JK Wrangler using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under front the axle to help support it. |
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3. Using a 5/8″ wrench, hold your Jeep JK Wrangler’s shock can in place just below the upper shock mount to keep it from spinning. Then, remove the stud mount nut above using a 16mm wrench. |
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4. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front shocks to the lower axle mount. |
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| 5. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. |
6. Using an 18mm socket and a 19mm wrench to hold the ball joint in place, remove the nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front sway bar links to the front sway bar itself. Allow the sway bar to dangle in place. |
7. Remove the bolt securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front track bar to the front axle mount using a 21mm socket. This can be a tough bolt to remove and an impact wrench or breaker bar will help to make this job easier. Once removed, set aside the flagged nut and leave the track bar attached to the frame. |
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8. Carefully lower your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front axle until the factory front coils can be slipped out of the upper perch and be removed completely with ease. |
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| 9. With the front coils removed, clean off the lower spring perch, place one of the CA1003 2�X3� Aluminum Bump Stop Extension that came with the Full Traction kit on top of it and use it as a template to mark off the location of the center hole. |
10. Set aside the CA1003 2�X3� Aluminum Bump Stop Extension and mark the center of where you will need to drill with a center punch and hammer. |
11. The space you’ll have to work with is limited and you may find that removing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rubber bump stops will help to give you a bit more room to get a hand drill under it straight. To remove the bump stop, simply grab it and pull firmly till it pops off. |
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| 12. Use a 1/8″ metal drilling bit to make a pilot hole in the center of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front lower spring perches. |
13. Drill out the pilot holes you just made in your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front lower spring perches using an 11/32″ metal drilling bit. |
14. Using a 9/16″ socket and one of the 3/8″x2-1/2″ self-tapping bolts provided with the Full Traction kit, slowly thread the holes you just drilled out by ratcheting the bolt on. Make sure to back out often and take your time. |
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| 15. Reinstall the factory rubber bump stop if you had removed it, work your new Full Traction coil over it and begin positioning it over the lower spring perch. Even with your front axle sitting as low as it can go, this task may still prove to be a bit difficult as the new coils are significantly taller than stock. You may want to use a set of spring compressors to assist you here. |
16. Slip in a CA1003 2â€?X3â€? Aluminum Bump Stop Extension up under the new Full Traction front coils just as you seat it onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower spring perch. |
17. Insert the 3/8″x2-1/2″ self-tapping bolt through the middle of the Aluminum Bump Stop Extension and secure it in place using a 9/16″ socket, a 3″ ratchet extension and working through the coils. Tighten the bolt to 30 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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18. Depending on what shocks you decided to get with your Full Traction 3″ Economy Lift Kit, you may find that bar pins will have been pre-installed into the lower shock bushing. If this is the case with your shocks, you’ll need to remove them and replace them with the metal sleeves that’ll be included with the shock hardware. A bench vice will help out a lot to press out the existing bar pin enough for you to pry it out and it will help you to press in the new metal sleeves. |
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| 19. Assemble one of the large cupped washers onto your front shock mounting stud so that the concave side is facing up and then follow it up with one of the polyurethane bushings with the stepped side facing up. |
20. Slip the front shock mounting stud up into your Jeep JK Wrangler’s upper mount, slide on the other polyurethane bushing with the stepped sided pointing down and then cap it off with the other cupped washer. |
21. Secure the front shock mounting stud in place with the new nut and jam nut that should have been provided with shock. You will need either (2) 17mm wrenches to do this or an 11/16″ will make a good substitute. Tighten this nut to 17 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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22. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, secure your front shocks to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s axle mount using the factory hardware and tighten the nut and bolt to 56 ft. lbs. of torque. |
| NOTE: If you’ve purchased a Full Traction Adjustable Front Track Bar, click on the link below for installation instructions:
Otherwise, continue on to step #23 below.
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23. Install the 50-7127 Front Trac Bar Bracket into your Jeep JK Wrangler’s factory axle mount, slide in the 1-1/8″x 14mm CA1020 Trac Bar Bracket Crush Spacer between the bracket and then loosely secure everything in place using the factory track bar bolt and flagged nut. |
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24. Using a 1/2″ socket and wrench, install the longer 5/16″x2-3/4″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut through the outside track bar mount hole closest to the passenger side wheel on your Jeep JK Wrangler. Then, install the shorter 5/16″x3/4″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut through the inside bracket hole as shown in the sample photo to the left. |
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25. Tighten the factory track bar mount bolt to 125 ft. lbs. of torque and then tighten the 5/16″ side support bolts to 45-50 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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26. With the engine off, put your key in the ignition, make sure that the steering wheel is unlocked and then have a friend turn it in one direction or the other until you can line up your Jeep JK Wrangler’s track bar with the mounting hole on the 50-7127 Front Trac Bar Bracket. Then, secure it in place by installing the 9/16″x3″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut supplied with the kit. |
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27. Using a 7/8″ wrench and a 13/16″ socket, tighten your Jeep JK Wrangler front track bar to the 50-7127 Front Trac Bar Bracket to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. |
| 28. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front wheels, lower it back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque, remove the wheel chocks from the rear and place them up front. |
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Lift the rear end up from the differential using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts. Remove the wheels off your Jeep JK Wrangler using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under front the axle to help support it. |
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| 30. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. |
31. Using an 18mm socket and a 19mm wrench to hold the ball joint in place, remove the nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear sway bar links to the rear sway bar itself. Allow the sway bar to dangle in place. |
32. Using a 16mm socket and a 12″ ratchet extension, loosen one of the two upper shock mount bolts and then completely remove the other. |
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| 33. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear shocks to the lower axle mounts. Then, remove the shocks completely by sliding them out of the remaining loosened upper mount bolts. |
34. Remove the rear track bar bolt and nut from your Jeep JK Wrangler’s upper frame mount using a 21mm socket and a crescent wrench. As was the case with the front track bar, this can be a tough bolt to remove and a breaker bar will help to make this job easier. |
35. Loosely install the 50-740504 Rear Track Bar Bracket onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear frame mount using one of the 9/16″x3″ grade 8 bolt to hold it in place. Using the bracket as a template, measure 1-3/4″ up from the center of bottom hole to locate where you will need to drill out the upper hole on the factory mount. |
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36. Remove the 50-740504 Rear Track Bar Bracket and position it over your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear track bar frame mount to double check the accuracy of the drilling point mark you made. |
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| 37. Mark the center of where you will need to drill with a center punch and hammer. |
38. Use a 1/8″ metal drilling bit to make a pilot hole in your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear track bar frame mount. |
39. Drill out the pilot hole you just created using a 1/2″ metal drilling bit. |
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40. Reinstall the 50-740504 Rear Track Bar Bracket onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear frame mount and secure it in place by fastening a 1/2″x1-1/4″ grade 8 bolt, washer and nut to the top bolt hole. You will need to use a 3/4″ socket and wrench for this job. Tighten this bolt and lock nut to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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41. Install the 50-740505 Rear Track Bar Strap Bracket over your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear frame mount and secure it in place by fastening a 1/2″x1-1/4″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut to the bottom bolt hole. You will need to use a 3/4″ socket and wrench for this job. Tighten this bolt and lock nut to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. Then, loosely install the 9/16″x3″ grade 8 bolt, washer and lock nut through the rear frame mount holding both sides of the strap in place. This bolt will be tightened after you reinstall the rear track bar. |
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| 42. Unhook your Jeep JK Wrangler’s emergency brake cables from the hanger bolted on the bottom of the tub. Or, you can unbolt the hanger all together. This is necessary in order for you to get your rear axle to droop enough to install your new coils. |
43. Using a 10mm socket, unbolt the rear brake line brackets which are fastened to the outside frame rails of your Jeep JK Wrangler. Leave them dangling at this time. |
44. Slowly lower your rear axle being mindful of the ESP wiring. If they get too tight, you may want to clip the plastic ties holding them in place and then zip tie them back on later. Once your axle is dropped low enough, your factory coils should just about fall out and can be removed with ease. Set aside the upper rubber isolators as they will be reused. |
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45. Place the factory rubber isolator on top of your new Full Traction coils and install them on the rear of your Jeep JK Wrangler making sure that the isolators and coils are properly seated in their perches. Again, this may prove to be a bit difficult especially on the passenger side if you have a 2-Door JK as the gas tank is in the way and a set of spring compressors should help to make this job easier to do. |
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46. Using a 10mm socket and the factory hardware, install the CA2007 (driver side) and CA2008
(passenger side) Brake Line Extension Brackets, onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s frame rails. |
47. Secure your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear brake lines to the new extension brackets using the 1/4″x3/4″ bolts, washers and lock nuts provided with the kit. You will need a 7/16″ socket and wrench for this job. |
48. Place the (2) 50-7101 Rear Bump Stop Blocks on top your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear axle bump pads and secure them in place using the 3/8″x3/4″ bolts, washers and nuts provided with the kit. You will need (2) 9/16″ wrenchs for the job but a 14mm wrench will act as a good substitute. |
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49. Using an 18mm socket and 19mm wrench install the new 70-4175 12� Straight Rear Sway Bar Links onto your factory sway bar using the 12x60mm bolts and nuts provided with the kit. |
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50. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, secure the new 70-4175 12� Straight Rear Sway Bar Links to the lower axle mounts using the factory hardware. |
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51. Install your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear factory track bar into the new 50-740504 Rear Track Bar Bracket and secure it in place using the 9/16″x3″ grade 8 bolt, washer and nut provided with the kit. Tighten both the bracket strap bolt and track bar bolt hand tight for now and up to 125 ft. lbs. of torque once your Jeep is back on the ground with the full weight of the vehicle on it. You will need a 13/16″ socket and a 7/8″ wrench for this job. |
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52. Make sure your new rear shocks have the appropriate bar pin installed. Then, using a 16mm socket and a 12″ ratchet extension, install them onto the rear upper shock mounts on your Jeep JK Wrangler using the factory hardware. Tighten these bolts to 37 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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53. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, install your new rear shocks onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower axle mounts using the factory hardware. Tighten these bolts to 56 ft. lbs. of torque. |
| 54. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear wheels, lower it back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque and make sure to tighten both the rear track bar bolt and bracket strap bolt to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. Remove the wheel chocks from the front. |
Jeep JK Wrangler X & Sahara Models
If you have a Jeep JK Wrangler X or Sahara, proceed to install the FTS306071 JK NEW GEN. Front Sway Bar Link Kit using the new 12mmx65mm bolts and nuts provided with the kit up top and the factory hardware for the lower axle mount.Jeep JK Wrangler Rubicon Models
Mark’s Jeep JK Wrangler is a Rubicon edition and because it has an electronic sway bar disconnect system up front, the Full Traction disconnect links should not be installed. Instead, you will need to take your old factory rear sway bar links and install them onto your front sway bar. Needless to say, the rest of this installation write-up will be from the perspective of a Rubicon model. |
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55. Using an 18mm socket and a 19mm wrench to hold the ball joint in place, install the nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear sway bar links to the front sway bar itself. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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56. Using the factory hardware, secure the rear sway bar links to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower front axle mounts and tighten them to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. You will need an 18mm socket and wrench to do this job. |
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57. You will now need to re-center your steering wheel as it will now be off. Using a 15mm wrench, loosen the 2 nuts on the turnbuckle as shown in the pic to the left. Then, rotate the turnbuckle clockwise or counter clockwise as needed while a friend watches the steering wheel (or you periodically check on it yourself) go back to center. Once re-centered, secure the nuts and take it for a drive to check your steering wheel. This may take a few tries to get it on 100% but that’s all there is to it. |
| ATTENTION: For people who will be keeping their factory wheels, you will need to install your rear sway bar links on the inside as shown in the photos below. This is required because the back spacing on the factory wheels will cause your wheel weights and/or wheels themselves to rub on the upper link bolts. |
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That’s it, you’re done. You now have a 3″ taller Jeep JK Wrangler that’s ready to stand on a set of new 35″ tires. Please let me know if you have any questions. |
Additional Photos
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| After |
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| After with 35″ Toyo Open Country M/T’s |
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I have a 4 door Rubi, could I use the 2.5″ teraflex shock extensions with this kit instead of buying the full traction shocks? The rubi only has 6000 miles on it so I thought it would be nice to use them. Also will the heavy duty coils ride about like the stock Rubi coils or is it rougher?
yes, you could and the ride is about the same or softer.
Hello,
Found your website and have a Question.
I’m a Newbie @ owning a jeep. I just purchased a 2010 Jk sport Islander. It came with stock Rubicon “17 inch wheels & 255(31’s) MT BF Goodrich tires. I will not be “Off roading” hardcore, just want to beef my ride up a little. What is the best Budget lift to put on (2″ or 2.5″) so I can put 33/12.5/17 on it?
PS: I was told I only had to put a 2″ spacer on front and I can run 33’s. Is this the case on this model? I want to be sure and buy the correct thing!!! Doesn’t need to be high dollar!!!!
Thanks for any help!! Eric in Michigan
Oh and I forgot.
I wanted the 33/12.5/17 AT instead of MT. Since I will be On road than off it per say? Do you have any suggestions on Brands, Doesnt have to be BF”s
Probably a dumb Q but asking anyways. Thanks again
you can practically run 33’s at stock height especially if you won’t be doing any real off roading.
Note to everyone, I’ve had this kit installed since 2008 on my 07 JK (4 door) and I’ve done moderate wheeling over the years. Last year because i used the relocation brackets instead of new trackbars the welds holding the front trackbar broke off the axel. Since then I’ve had it reinfoced and I’ve replaced the stock trackbars with adjustable from Teraflex, its all out of warranty of course. Also destroyed my steering stabilizer in the process.
Also loosing your trackbar isn’t very fun after about 40 mph you could be in a bit of trouble… at the time i saved myself a few bucks but the repair and reinforcement job cost me quite a bit more (had them do the front and rear just in case). nice to know its done right now but just a warning, i hear now they do a better job at welding the brackets on later models of the JK but i don’t want others to run into this issue
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n70/lnolte/07%20JK/trackbar.jpg
Hello Eddie,
I apologize for what I am sure is a redundant question for you. I have a ’07 Jeep Sahara with a 2.5 ProComp Suspension lift. I have P255/70R18 tires on it. My questions are:
#1:Alot of Tire companies seems reluctant to put 33×12.50s on those stock rims. Is is safely doable? No blow outs
#2:If not I am looking at some Black Rock 16×10 wheels with 4.5 backspacing. Is it true that the smaller the backspacing the more the wheel\tire extends? I would like to get a more planted look to my jeep.
Thank you in advance
yes, it is totally safe and lots of people do it. heck, i’ve been running 35×12.50’s on factory wheels without any problems. yes, the default wheel size for 12.50’s is 10″ but, 8″ is the norm for off roading. factory wheels are just a tad narrower but not enough to matter.
hello, my name is chris and I have read quite a few of your write ups and you deffonatly seem to be the most professional and knowledgable about the JK’s. I have a 2010 wrangler 2 door sport, 4×4 with an auto trans. i really want to put a 3 or 3.5 inch lift on it. i do not do a whole lot of off roading but i will every now and then and be just a little rough on it but nothing extreme seeing as it is my daily driver. i would like to keep somewhat of a soft ride and run 35X12.50R18 tires. i have instaled lift kits before on jeeps but they were much older, they were CJ modles.
so my questions for you are this relating to my specific jeep:
1) what 3 or 3.5″ lift do you recomend for comfort, reliability, and toughness?
2) with whatever lifts you recomend, will i have to replace either driveshaft?
3) i do not want my tires sticking way out so what backset on the rims should i get?
and finally 4) i pull a smoker trailer now and then that weighs about 1300lbs and it doesnt sag at all, with a lift, will it and will i need to beef up the rear at all?
oh and one final note, i do not want to go broke on this project, haha, so please keep that in mind with your recomendations
1. there is an update on this kit and i might recommend it for you:
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-new/full-traction-suspension-30-premium-plus-srs%e2%84%a2-jeep-jk-wrangler-zero-maintenance-lift-system
2. yes, being that you have a 2-door and it’s an auto, you will need to replace both shafts.
3. just make sure to get wheels with 4.5″ of back spacing. any less than than and your tires will stick out – any more and you will have rubbing issues.
4. i doubt it but, if you do see some sagging, you might want to get a set of air bags to compensate for it.
If I were to install this lift, would I be able to install JKS upper and lower adjustable control arms? Would you say that I would probably need coil spacers if I were to install new bumpers, sideskirts, and a winch with this lift? Thanks
yes, you could install whatever control arms you wanted. as far as coil spacers go, depending on how heavy all your additional skids are, yes, you might want to install a set of 3/4″ spacers.
Hi, I’m also new to the JK wold and after ready hundreds of threads on lifts…I’m looking for a lift. Like Chris above, I will not be doing much off roading and this will be on the highway a lot. I just bought a lifetime chrysler warranty so want to keep forever and not void anything. I’ve read a lot regarding damaging of the drivetrain (ie boots wearing and not being able to get into reverse with manual…). A few questions:
I drive a ’08 Sahara unlimited 5-speed:
1) would you recommend the teraflex for full traction system? I don’t want to spend a fortune but want it done right without any wear/tear on other components. Looking to put on 35″s, so either 2.5 or 3″ will work for me (bigger is better though)
2) New driveshaft for manual 5-speed 4 door?
3) Recommend re-gear?
Thanks so much!
Hey Rich,
You have a 4 door JK, Its unlikely you will have any driveline issues if you don’t offroad.
I would drive your vehicle first and decide if you can live with the powerloss. You then can make a decision to regear or not. With the 6 speed it will be decent.
I would also suggest that you look at our Premium plus kit. The economy kit is a great kit, however it does not address pinion and caster angles.
http://www.full-traction.com/detail.php?MODELID=24&MAKEID=1&TYPEID=1&PRODUCTID=492&NOTES=
If you have any questions please feel free to contact me on the forum or on the phone
1-800-255-6464
Chris
Great write-up. I’m very late to the party here but I did have a question.
I will be purchasing the economy plus kit in a few weeks which comes with the front adjustable track bar. When exactly should the front adjustable track bar be installed?
Should you completely install the lift and make measurements before installing the track bar to the axle end?
Any comments on this would be very helpful.
Nick
you can loosely install the track bar to the frame mount before reinstalling your tires. you should wait until your jeep is back on the ground before finishing up the install and torquing the bolts. check out the full-traction ultimate lift write-up i did and there are some instructions there to help you out.
This might have been asked but there are so many questions to go through… How is the economy lift in off roading situations (mud, sand, etc). I have a 07 Rubi and I usually hit the Eglin Reservation when I offroad which can include mud, lots of sand, and some ruts. I am looking for a good economy kit that comes with what I need to get a safe and reliable lift that will do me good in off roading and on road for daily driving.
Hi I live in australia and I just got the economy 3″ lift kit but when I installed the frount spring they sit bent and are rubbing were the bumpstop is I don’t no what to do I can send a pic so you can see my email is froggi1983@ gmail.com
sounds like you either have too much positive caster and/or have your lower control arms adjusted too long.
So, I’m considering buying the FT 3″ economy lift and attempting to self-install. Other than a pair of shocks, is there any other parts you recommend out of the gate? I drive an 09 Rubicon Unlimited. (new tires will have to come later..)
Also, is this something that can really be done on my own?
Sorry for the follow along, but which lift would you recommend the most in this range? the FT 3″ budget or the Rubicon Express 3.5″? Thanks for all your help and the write ups are very helpful!
i would recommend getting the 3″ premium plus kit as it is way more complete and better than the the RE kit.
Great! Thanks for the recommendation. It looks like it basically provides the adjustable track bar correct? Also, which shocks would you buy if you were wanting to keep a good ride on the road, but want good durability and articulation on the trail? Thanks and those should be some of the last questions until post install.
the premium plus kit should come with adjustable front and rear track bars as well as adjustable front and rear upper control arms. regarding shocks, i really like the bilstein 5100’s and they will work great with the FT coils.
Perhaps a silly question, but at the end of the write up you have this statement : “ATTENTION: For people who will be keeping their factory wheels, you will need to install your rear sway bar links on the inside as shown in the photos below. This is required because the back spacing on the factory wheels will cause your wheel weights and/or wheels themselves to rub on the upper link bolts.”
If I am adding installing spidertrax, will I still need to attach the links to the inside?
Thanks again!
if you install spidertrax spacers, you will not need to install the links on the inside.
Thanks for all the help. Just finished the install. There were some changes to the lift since the write up, but was able to really make proper adjustments based on what I learned on your site. I got an unbelievable 4″ from the front and 3.2″ in the rear. Looks great and can’t wait to get her dirty.
Hey Eddie,
I own a 2012 2 door jk, and I am looking to run 35×12.5×17 tires but would like to keep the stock wheels. I’m looking for the best way to do this while keeping it pretty cheap, and this lift seems to be the one; I do have a few questions though, if I were to run this lift.
-Would I need to buy a new drive shaft?
-I’m assuming I would need new shocks, is this correct?
-Anything else I might need that doesn’t come with the kit?
-Lastly am I correct in assuming this is the best kit for a moderate occasional weekend off road vehicle with a tight budget, or would you reccomend something else?
thanks Eddie you are awesome!!
Yes, you would need a new front drive shaft and being that you have a 2-door, would need a new rear shaft sooner than later as well. You would need to get new longer shocks as well. Last but not least, this is a good kit but, I might actually recommend that you give the newer EVO MFG Enforcer kit a look. You don’t need to get it with the expensive King shocks but rather, just get it with Bilstein 5100’s instead. The drag link flip it comes with is a better way to go.
Hi Eddie,
I have a couple questions for you. You’ve actually answered others regarding this lift, which I installed last year. Since then, I’ve added synergy adjustable lca’s and ball joints I also added Toyo 35×12.5×17 on stock rims. This weekend I plan on adding my new to me, slightly used, Synergy tie rod (my stock is seized up and auto shop couldn’t even loosen with a torch). So, here is my question. I’m pulling to the right and experience some flightiness along with slight shaking over bumps. (I had DW, and found it was the ball joints were shot.) I’m wondering if I should adjust caster, toe and if you think the beefier tie rod would make a difference? Thanks for deciphering my message and reading between the lines on a jeep you know nothing about… 😉 have a good one!
Pulling to the right is most likely coming from radial pull and that is common with Toyo’s. I wouldn’t be too concerned with that. Flightiness can be corrected with a bit more positive caster. A beefier tie rod won’t make a difference.
Great write up. I am looking at the Mopar 2″ lift for my 2012 JK. Cost is high through the dealer. I was looking at this route because of warranty issues. If I go after market will Jeep still cover warranty issues? I heard a lot of no they won’t.
Hi Eddie I have some questions I have a 2013 jku I put a 3” lift on with front and rear bump stops and moved the sway arm links to the front and got new ones for the rear also got a rear track bar reallocation bracket on the rear and shock extensions all the way around. Do I need anything else. Was wondering if I need a relocation bracket for the front track bar.
You DO NOT want to install a relocation on the front UNLESS you install a draglink flip at the same time. It is critical to do both and, doing so with something like an EVO kit will help improve your handling. Also, with the amount of lift you have on your 13, you will need to get a new u-joint style drive shaft sooner than later.
if i installed Full-Traction 3″ Premium Flex Suspension System do i have to change the front drive shaft
i have 4doors jk12 automatic
yes.