Front Installation Instructions
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| 1. To remove either the Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon rocker guards or Sahara running boards, use a 10mm wrench to remove the 3 pairs of nuts securing them to the body pinch seam. |
2. Using a 13mm socket, remove the 3 bolts securing the Rubicon factory rocker guards or Sahara running boards to the bottom of your Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited’s body. |
3. With the 6 nuts and 3 bolts removed, the factory rocker guards or running boards on your Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon or Sahara should pull off the body pinch seam with ease. Set them aside. |
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| 4. Starting on the driver side of your Jeep JK Wrangler, use an 18mm socket to remove the bolts securing the automatic transmission and transfer case skid plates to the frame rail. |
5. Place your LoD Signature Series Rock Slider on a floor jack and carefully maneuver in place under your Jeep JK Wrangler’s driver side rocker panel. |
6. Using the factory hardware, secure your new LoD Signature Series Rock Slider to the points where the automatic transmisson and transfer case skid plates attach the frame rail on your Jeep JK Wrangler. An 18mm socket will be needed for this job. |
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| 7. Double check that your LoD Signature Series Rock Slider is sitting straight. Then, using it as a template, mark off all the mounting holes you will need to drill out on the side of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s frame rail. |
8. On the mount closest to the rear tire, there are 2 holes on the bottom of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s frame rail that you will need to mark off as well. |
9. Remove the 2 bolts securing your LoD Signature Series Rock Slider onto the frame rail and then carefully lower and remove it from your Jeep JK Wrangler. |
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10. With your LoD Signature Series Rock Slider set aside, locate and mark the center of all the holes you need to drill out with a center punch. This will help keep your drill bit from wandering away once you start drilling. |
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| 11. Using a small metal drilling bit or Unibit, begin drilling pilot holes on all the mounting points on you’ve marked off your Jeep JK Wrangler’s frame rail. |
12. If you don’t have one already, you really need to pick up a matched 7/16″ x NF20 Drill Bit and Tap Set like the one shown above. |
13. Using the drill bit that comes with the drill and tap set, finish drilling out all the pilot holes that you made back on step #11. |
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| 14. If you don’t have some already, I would highly recommend that you pick up some cutting oil as it will help make tapping your mounting holes a whole lot easier. |
15. With the help of some cutting oil, slowly and carefully tap all your mounting holes. Due to the body of the Jeep JK Wrangler being in the way, you will not be able to use a standard tap handle to do this. I improvised and used a wrench to do this job. |
16. Place your LoD Signature Series Rock Slider back on a floor jack and carefully maneuver in place under your Jeep JK Wrangler’s driver side rocker panel. |
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17. Using the factory hardware, secure your new LoD Signature Series Rock Slider to the points where the automatic transmisson and transfer case skid plates attach the frame rail on your Jeep JK Wrangler. An 18mm socket will be needed for this job. |
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18. Using the 7/16″x1″ bolts that come with the kit, secure your LoD Signature Series Rock Slider onto the new mouting holes that you made on your Jeep JK Wrangler’s frame rails |
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19. Repeat this process on the passenger side of your Jeep JK Wrangler. |
And that’s it! You are now ready to take on some big rocks and obstacles without having to worry about damaging your rocker panels. And, as an added bonus, you have a great looking set of side steps too. Please let me know if you have any questions. |
Installed Photos
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To see more photos of the LoD Signature Series Rock Sliders, click on the link below:LoD Signature Series 4-Door Unlimited
Rock Sliders Photo Gallery |
I’m glad you guys took the time to provide a write-up as the sliders do not come with any instructions. The folks at LOD were very quick to help me when I called them…but that was when I realized I was over my head sicne my ability to drill and tap in a straight line are more than questionable!
I had my sliders put on by a local shop as I was petrified of the tapping aspect of this project. Cost me a little bit but, in the end, I got them installed correctly and saved myself probably 12+ hours of labor (it took the shop 5 hours to install).
I would like to add that the sliders came packaged in two very well made wood crates to protect them during shipping. It was nice to see a company take great care in the little things!
Finally, I have dropped my Jeep so hard on rocks that it felt like my sliders would have been ripped right off but have escaped with very minor scrapes. These things are SOLID!! Glad I bought them!
Great write up!
However when I clicked on the install pics I get a page saying “Sorry, no posts matched your criteria.” Was hoping to see up close photos of the install. Any way to get these corrected?
Thanks,
Daniel
not sure what the problem is for you - everything looks good on our end.
The first three pictures don’t work for me as stated by Daniel.
So I have three questions. One is that I have a 2-dr. I see that Northridge4×4 has LoD sliders listed for the 2-Dr but LoD doesn’t. I realize that they are basically custom making everything so I suppose they will make them for a 2-dr. Can you confirm that?
Second question has to do with the tapping of the holes for the bolts. It looks like you are getting 3 or 4 threads in the wall of the frame. That makes me nervous. The Shrockworks version (very similar in design) uses stick nuts for many of their bolts (just a couple are tapped per your other write-up). I know you have both of these two sliders. Any thoughts on the merits of nuts versus tapping? Are torque numbers provided? I know it is important to get the proper bolt stretch amount to preload the joint.
Final question has to do with the bolt heads (and brackets) on the bottom of the rail. I like that they bolt to two perpendicular surfaces but wonder how the bolt heads and brackets under the frame hold up after sliding on some rocks?
Thanks for the great write-ups. Saving up and hope to get one of these two rails before to long!
Do you guys know if they will ship these sliders to Australia? I have emailed them twice now with no reply.
My coils sag more on one side than the other. Should I try to correct this with the disconnects or just have them set at different lengths?
if you have adjustable sway bar links, that is the cheapest and easiest way to address this.
I really like the looks of the LoD sliders, but am not so sure I like the way they mount. Doesn’t mounting the sliders OVER the skidplate mounts pose issues for T case and Transmission maintenance? Do you need to remove the sliders every time you need to get a skid plate off? Anyone have any practical experience with this?
you just have to remove the bolt and loosen the others and then you can slide the skid out.
What size tires are those on the JKU used in the write-up? Did you have to use spacers?
they are 35″ tires and yes, we had to install 1.25″ wheel spacers to run them.