As everyone knows, changing your engine oil is a necessary part of routine maintenance on your Jeep JK Wrangler and, it’s one that is required on a regular basis. Fortunately, it’s also something that is super easy to do, something that just about anyone can do and, something that can save you a money. Of course, for those of you who have never changed your own engine oil before, this short write-up will explain in detail what all is involved and just how little you will need to do. And, after you done this on your own, I can almost guarantee that you’ll never take your Jeep back to your dealer or a shop to have it done for you again.
were do you get the oil filter?
I love this write up. I used to change my oil, as we all did back in high school. With this new JK I bought…I’ve flirted w/ the idea ofdoing it myself again. I have made this a printed Word document so I can take it home as my oil change manual. I also appreciate the filte numbers as well.
Thanks….
You can also use an oversize filter with the same internals. The M1-209 is the large Mobil-1 Filter. I’ve been using it for 3+ years
Where is the best place to take your used oil? Do most parts stores take it free of charge?
most autoparts stores have a recycling program. i take my oil to pepboys in milk jugs and drop them off. the only thing you need to do is fill out some paperwork and you’re done.
So since you are using Mobil 1, synthetic oil. How many miles between changes? I used conventional valvoline and change mine every 3000 miles. Do you get better engine protection with the synthetic?
Thanks, Ralph
If you change your oil when the dashboard indicator displays “change oil”, how do you reset that indicator?
hey ralph, i try to change my oil once every 3,000 but that’s probably more out of habbit than anything. i do drive my jeeps hard and in the dust and technically, that would be reason enough to do a change at that frequency but, synth oils are really good and technically, you can go a lot longer without a change – 6000 miles or even more should be fine.
red dog, you need to turn your key to the ON position without starting your engine and then push the gas pedal fully to the floor 3 times. turn your key off and you should be good to go 🙂
What about greasing the parts that a shop would grease for you on a full service oil change?
If you want to get all the old oil out of the pan you need to jack up the front end with 2 floor jacks. Do this after you have drained the pan and removed the old filter.
I put the jack pads under the front lower control arm brackets on the axle then raise them evenly as high as they will go. You will be suprised how much old oil is left in the pan if you do this. If you want to be extra shure all the old oil is out you can buy a CHEAP quart of oil to flush the pan.
And remember to chock the rear wheels if you do this.
utjeeper, none of the factory joints have grease nipples on the JK. if you have aftermarket suspension components or drive shafts, giving them a greasing would be a good idea.
2 questions.
When you tighten the Oil Filter by hand, do you not need to go back to it and tighten it with a strap wrench later?
And how long should you wait till you can drive the Jeep after the Oil change?
Thanks
LAHAL
LAHAL, you don’t need to tighten the filter more than hand tight. Just put a little effort into your “hand tight”. As for waiting to drive it.. you should run the engine for a little bit, then turn it off and check the oil level. Once you’re certain you’re good for quantity, you’re good to go.
I’d want to change the oil on my JK CRD. Do you know what the torque is for the CRD drain bolt ?
sandro
hand tight is plenty.. no need for a torque wrench on drain bolt hafahhh
The auto parts shop was out of the 5w-20 but they have 5w-30. I’ve never quite understood those numbers. Can you explain in plain english? It has something to do with the temperature and I’m hoping the higher number means it will perform better when hotter, which our summers are. Am I correct?
Do you need to put a washer on the drain bolt? If yes, what spec or part number?
I have a dislike for 5w-20 since they used to call for 30 in this engine.. but whatever. 20 means it behaves like a 30 ‘weight’ oil when at operating temperatures and 5 means it acts like a 5 weight oil when cold. SO you get good flow at low temps when starting and good protection at high temps.
The drain bolt has a rubber gasket on it(2008 at least) so you won’t need a crush washer.
One thing to make sure of; when you take your oil filter off check to make sure that the gasket is out with it and not still in the Jeep. I had a horrible experience with my first oil change, the Mobil1 filter would not seal and oil was leaking like crazy, I did not even think about the gasket until I checked the old OEM filter and saw that the gasket was missing. I took the new filter off and had to pry the old gasket off the engine. It seems that when they put the filter on at the factory they overtightened so much that the gasket got stuck.
Wouldn’t you want to remove the filler cap and remove the dipstick before removing the drain plug? That’s what I do…
Here is a list of oil filters for your JK wrangler that I thought would be helpfull.
JEEP WRANGLER
Oil Filter for All 2007 – 2011
BRAND STOCK SIZE PN EXTRA CAPASSATY PN
MOPAR L335 NONE
*BALDWIN BT223 NONE
*AMSOIL EA15K51 EA25K51
FRAM TG3614 TG3600
K&N HP-1002 HP-2009
MOBIL 1 M1-102 M1-209
AC-DELCO PF56 NONE
NAPA 348 1516
PUREONE PL10241 PL20195
PUROLATER L10241 L20195
WIX 51348 51516
MOTORCRAFT FL793 FL400S
*AMSOIL DISCONTINUED ALL REGULAR OIL FILTERS EXCEPT FOR THE FIFTEEN THOUSAND MILE FILTER AND TWENTYFIVE THOUSAND MILE FILTER depending on application. Change the oil at 3000 city / 6000 highway miles per manufacture specs, not replacing the oil filter. AMSOIL has oil formulated for 15/25 thousand mile changes. All 3.8 V6 engine oil capacity is 6.1 courts with this brand.
*BALDWIN is a heavy duty filter that is recommended for trucks and can withstand the extra stress put on your engine from off road driving.
I changed the oil and filter of my 2011 Wrangler. The manufacturer put the oil filter on with such force, I bent my filter wrench trying to back the filter off. I punctured the filter, too. So there I was: a ruined filter stuck on the engine; oil running down my arm into my armpit and clothing; a messy driveway, trying to figure-out how to get the danged filter off. Fortunately, I had a small strap wrench and another filter wrench. I had to use my max bench press to get the filter to move. I though only Honda did stuff like this.
I did get the filter off, but I was pissed at the assembler who cranked the thing on with such force.
BTW, the drain plug torque spec is 20 ft. lpf. Things like torque and oil weights have a basis. As an engineer, I always use what the engineers determined is the right force and the right fluids.
I use Mobil 1 5W-20 in the Jeep. I’ve got a 1994 Trooper with 240K miles and it still runs very well and I used nothing but dino oil. But, now that I can afford Mobil 1, I use it in all my newer cars.
what about Valvoline 5w-20 synthetic oil with mobil m1-209 on 2011 rubicon is that a good combo hope so thatIS what I WAS told to use by a jeep wrench . I ALWAYS USED MOBIL ONE IN MY HUMMERS GREAT OIL .
Great instructions! Never new it was this easy. I like being able to do stuff on my own but sometimes a bit apprehensive the first time around especially with little instruction. Thanks.
Will changing your own oil, while still under warranty, void your warranty in any way?
See my dealer said that it wouldn’t be a problem.
Chrysler, on the other hand, told me it would be a problem, and I should take it to a reputable shop.
I, personally, would rather do my own oil, and fluid changes, mods etc… but i don’t want to void my warranty.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but shouldn’t step 6 be the first step. From my understanding, this allows air-flow; causing the oil to flow out quicker.
step #2 will do that
FYI, the steps to maunally reset the ‘Change Oil’ indication is the same in my 2007 JK.
Excellent writeup!
I would recommend 1/2″ sized socket or wrench cuz 13mm is a little big for the SAE oil plug and could strip it…
Every time I change the oil & filter on my 2011 JK, the filter is dry. That can’t be normal or could it? Using Castrol Edge Titanium 5w20 and Bosch Distance Plus filter #D3330
TWO points. On the 3.8L in the JK, you can also use a longer oil filter, AMSOIL p/n EaO34 (there’s plenty of room). Also, guys and gals, you can permanently install a solid brass drain plug (NOT made in China) from a company called FEMCO no spill systems. With this item you don’t need to remove the drain plug. Check it out.
I am to, Using an over sized oil filter as well. I’m using purolator from bi-mart, say it 99.9% efficiency.
part# Pl20195 , beleave it for a mazada. same size around ,tread count and seal. It just longer by about 50% or so.
I use 1/4 of a qrt. more oil with it.