Instructions
|
 |
This is a pic of all the parts you should get with your new Old Man Emu 2″ Jeep JK Wrangler Lift Kit. Take some time to make sure you have all the parts shown as well as all the tools listed on the left prior to starting this project. |
 |
 |
 |
| 1. Park your Jeep JK Wrangler on a level surface and chock your rear tires. Then, using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolts and nuts securing your front sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. (NOTE: If you have a manual transmission, skip to step #3). |
2. If you have an automatic transmission, use an 18mm socket to remove the 3 bolts (one on each frame rail and one on the cross member) securing its skid plate to the frame of your Jeep JK Wrangler. Remove the skid plate and set it aside for now. |
3. Remove the bolt securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front track bar to the front axle mount using a 21mm socket. This can be a tough bolt to remove and an impact wrench or breaker bar will help to make this job |
 |
4. Loosen (but do not remove) the lug nuts on your front wheels, raise the front end of your Jeep JK Wrangler one side at a time from the axle using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts as shown in this pic. |
 |
5. Remove the wheels off your Jeep JK Wrangler using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under the front axle to help support it. |
 |
 |
 |
| 6. Using a 16mm or 5/8″ wrench, hold your Jeep JK Wrangler’s shock can in place just below the upper shock mount to keep it from spinning. Then, remove the stud mount nut above using a 16mm wrench. |
7. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front shocks to the lower axle mount. |
8. Being mindful of your brake lines, carefully lower your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front axle until the factory front coils can be slipped out of the upper perch and be removed completely with ease. |
 |
 |
 |
| 9. Slide the factory rubber coil isolator down and off your Jeep JK Wrangler’s upper bump stop tower as shown in this pic. |
10. Place the yellow Old Man Emu 1/2″ coil spacer on top of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s factory rubber isolator. |
11. Reinstall both your new Old Man Emu 1/2″ coil spacer and factory rubber isolator back on to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s upper bump stop tower as shown in this pic. |
 |
12. Install your new Old Man Emu 2″ front coils by slipping them up your Jeep JK Wrangler’s upper bump stop tower and then set it on the lower spring perch. Rotate the coil until the bottom end of it is seated properly. |
 |
 |
 |
| 13. Begin the installation of your new Old Man Emu front shocks by slipping the large washer on top of the mounting stud followed by one of the black polyurethane bushings and then the zinc finished locating washer with the center hole lip facing up as shown in this pic. |
14. Insert the Old Man Emu front shock mounting stud through the top of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s shock tower. Then, slip the other black polyurethane bushing on top followed by the zinc finished washer (concave side facing down), smaller washer and nut as shown in this pic. |
15. Grasp the Old Man Emu front shock can firmly with one hand and then secure the mounting stud nut in place using a 16mm wrench. |
 |
16. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, secure your new Old Man Emu front shocks to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s axle mount using the factory hardware and tighten the nut and bolt to 56 ft. lbs. of torque. |
 |
17. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front wheels, lower it back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque, remove the wheel chocks from the rear and place them up front. |
 |
18. With the engine off, put your key in the ignition, make sure that the steering wheel is unlocked and then have a friend turn it in one direction or the other until you can line up your front track bar bushing hole with the front axle mount hole on your Jeep JK Wrangler. Secure the track bar in place using the factory hardware and tighten it to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. |
|
19. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s sway bar links back onto the front axle mounts and tighten them to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. You will need an 18mm socket and wrench to do this job. |
|
20. If you have an automatic and removed your skid plate earlier, use an 18mm socket to re-install and secure it to the frame of your Jeep JK Wrangler using the 3 factory bolts. |
 |
21. Lift the rear end of your Jeep JK Wrangler from the differential using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts. Remove the wheels off using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under front the axle to help support it. |
 |
22. Remove the wheels off using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under front the axle to help support it. |
 |
23. Remove the rear track bar bolt and nut from your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower axle mount using a 21mm socket. As was the case with the front track bar, this can be a tough bolt to remove and a breaker bar will help to make this job easier. |
 |
 |
 |
| 24. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. |
25. Using a 16mm socket and a 6″-12″ ratchet drive extension, remove your Jeep JK Wrangler’s 2 upper rear shock mount bolts. |
26. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear shocks to the lower axle mounts. Remove and set aside your shocks for now. |
 |
 |
 |
| 27. Using a 10mm socket, remove the 2 nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s emergency brake cables to the bottom of the tub. This is necessary in order for you to get your rear axle to droop enough to install your new coils. |
28. Using a 10mm socket, unbolt the rear brake line brackets which are fastened to the outside frame rails of your Jeep JK Wrangler. Leave them dangling at this time. |
29. Slowly lower your rear axle being mindful of the ESP wiring. Once your axle is dropped low enough, your factory coils should just about fall out and can be removed with ease. Set aside the upper rubber isolators as they will be reused. |
 |
30. Place the factory rubber isolator on top of your new Old Man Emu rear coils and then install both back on to your Jeep JK Wrangler. Make sure that the rubber isolator is seated properly in the upper spring perch. |
 |
31. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, secure the factory rear sway bar link back onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower axle mounts and tighten them to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. |
 |
 |
 |
| 32. Using a 16mm socket and a ratchet extension, install your new Old Man Emu shocks on to the rear upper mounts on your Jeep JK Wrangler using the factory hardware. Tighten these bolts to 37 ft. lbs. of torque. |
33. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, install your new Old Man Emu rear shocks onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower axle mounts using the factory hardware. Tighten these bolts to 56 ft. lbs. of torque. |
34. Using a 10mm socket and the factory hardware, re-install your rear brake line brackets back on to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s frame rails. |
|
35. Using a 10mm socket, re-secure your Jeep JK Wrangler’s emergency brake cables hanger to the bottom of the tub using the factory nuts. |
 |
36. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear wheels, lower it back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque. |
 |
37. If you have a friend helping out, have them push hard on the passenger side of your Jeep JK Wrangler until the rear track bar axle mount hole lines up enough for you to insert the bolt through it. Then, secure the rear track bar bolt and flag nut in place and tighten them to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. |
 |
38. Because of the lift, your steering wheel will be off just a bit. To re-center your steering wheel, use a 15mm wrench to loosen the 2 nuts on the turnbuckle as shown in the pic to the left. Then, rotate the turnbuckle clockwise or counter clockwise as needed while a friend watches the steering wheel (or you periodically check on it yourself) go back to center. Once re-centered, secure the nuts and take it for a drive to check your steering wheel. This may take a few tries to get it on 100% but that’s all there is to it. |
Congratulations, you now have a Jeep JK Wrangler that’s sitting on top of Old Man Emu 2″ Jeep JK Wrangler suspension lift. And, from what I have seen, this kit sits closer to 3″-3.5″ lift and would imagine it would clear 35″ tires with ease. Certainly, John’s JK already had 33’s on and as you can see in the after pics below, there is more than enough room to fit more.
Give your Jeep a thorough test drive and after about 100 miles, give your nuts and bolts another check with the torque wrench just to make sure nothing has come loose.
Please let me know if you have any questions. |
Additional Photos
|
| Before |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| After |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| Click on the link below to see all the Old Man Emu 2″ Jeep JK Wrangler suspension lift pics:
Old Man Emu 2″ Jeep JK Wrangler Lift Pics |
[...] wayoflife wrote a fantastic post today on “Old Man Emu Jeep JK Wrangler 2" Lift Installation Write-Up”Here’s ONLY a quick extractIf you’re looking to give your Jeep JK Wrangler a 2″ lift and have no plans of ever going taller in the future, there’s only one true suspension lift kit you should consider and that is the one made by Old Man Emu. … [...]
[...] Here’s another interesting post I read today by wayoflife [...]
IS POSSIBLE USE A 35X12.5X17 TIRES
Yes. In fact, it is what ARB had on their JK at SEMA.
I’m surprised that the kit does not include a rear track bar relocation bracket. Does OME not feel this is needed???
The shift in your axles is minor and minor enough that a rear track bar relocation bracket or adjustable front track bar are not needed. However, I personally would recommend that you get both a front and rear adjustable track bar to recenter your axles. While a relocation bracket will help to correct for a shift, if it is not designed for the amount of lift you have, it will not correct it 100%.
Eddie
I have an OME lift on my Cherokee and love it. So what I want to know is, how’s the ride? Is it as good or better than stock?
At least as good as stock and in my opinion, better than a stock X or Sahara.
Eddie
Do the rear brakelines need extensions?
I’m very interested in this lift but have a couple of questions. Is it necessary to do an alignment after installing this lift? Is the idea to install the lift completely and then see how much the axles have moved and then install adjustable track bars? I have also heard that this lift will settle after some time, will you then have to re-adjust the track bars?
Brian, no, brake line extensions are not needed as the rear shocks have designed to give you just the right amount of droop and act as limiting straps to prevent the over extension of your brake lines.
Crownline202, No, you will not need to do an alignment after installing this lift as the steering on the JK is set up in such a way that your toe-in will not change. You may find it necessary to recenter your steering wheel but that’s all that is needed. If you get adjustable track bars, yes, you will need to set them after you can determine how much your axles are off by. Should be more than about 1/4″. As far as settling goes, it shouldn’t be more than about 1/4″… 1/2″ tops. That would bring you back closer to 2.5″ of lift when all is said and done.
Eddie
with this particular lift yielding more than 2″ on the 2 door… i know nothing was written about additional changes to drive shafts, but should that be changed as well or recommended?
No, it won’t be necessary but it is something that you will need to replace eventually as the rear shaft will be at a steep angle and will eventually cause the CV boots to wear out. But, I don’t think that would happen very quickly. Up front, if you have an automatic, your drive shaft may come in contact with the auto skid at a full droop but that can be trimmed.
Eddie
Hey Eddie, How yah been? This lift appeals to me price wise as well as quality. I noticed in these post though that you still reccomend additional changes. If I don’t plan on lifting past 2 or 3 inchs what other kits might be better all around. say with sway bar disconects,trac bar mounts or relocation brackets. I have a stock 4 door X with 33s on stock rims. Almost all the companies have similar priced kits be being a newbie it is hard to decide where to spend this one time chunk of change I have to squeeze from my better half.God love her she keeps me moving forward.
In peticular the Rock Krawler looks complete. Any info would be appreciated. Also the mopar dana 44 axles come with e locker. so for 14 hundred that seems like a very cost effective up grade from what a stock X comes with up front. Your thoughts.
I also just read up on the full traction 3″ and again similar in price but seems to offer more. Is this what you ran on your rig?
It seems to have delivered. your outtings don’t show too much problems with it, and you seem to be putting it through its paces. I don’t want to pest anyone, but 5,6,8 hundred bones is real money.
Thanks Coy
Hi Coy, I had been running a Full Traction 3″ Ultimate Lift on my JK for a little over a year now and have put on over 23,000 miles on it. It is a great kit as it is very complete but it is also a lot more expensive than this kit. The recommended addition that I mentioned are only mentioned because I am anal about my Jeep and like to have it dialed in. However, they are not required with this lift and I think you will find that what you get is adequate and your ride will be great. Also, you can always upgrade as needed or as finances allow. Regarding the Mopar D44, yes, it is a great upgrade and one that is very affordable.
Eddie
Right on Eddie. Thanks for the info. It is hard to decide what to pick with all thats out there. Getting feed back from you and other wheelers helps me not waste time and money. I like the write ups and picks that go with them. Still looking for your bunch to make a run up here. Man death valley or mojave is just a long trek for us. Funny just like any other hobby or pastime. dirtbikes,harley’s,boats,hotrods whatever, once you get into it you find a whole world. I get suprised daily at just how many people are serious offroaders, with buggies, crawlers whatnot. But I have been wrenching for fun and a living for as long as I can remember. I like the way you and the others roll. You are out to have a good time not just thrash. I used to live in the Ozarks and if you break down your walking. I am also thinking of relocating my family up north around the Portola area. Lots of good open country. anyway take it easy.
Coy williams
Have you compare the new REVTEK 2 inch lift against this lift kit; with front shocks, no coils, spacers and a front track bar. They recommnend the front track bar to prevent bump stops.
Hi Jorge, no, I have no experience with Revtek products but being that it has NO coils, it is not in the same league as the OME kit as it is essentially a budget boost (coil spacer kit). As far as ‘bump stops’ go, did you mean to say bump steer? Because, bump stop and extensions for them will be needed with a budget boost kit to prevent the over compression of your factory coils.
Eddie
I would LOVE to know what kind of ride & lift height the MEDIUM FRONT and rear springs give on a 2 door JK?!?!?!?!?!? I DO not want a harsher than stock ride on my 07 2 door Rubicon
THANKS FOR ANY FEEDBACK! ! !
So long as you are not planning to install heavy bumpers and a winch, I’m sure it will provide an outstanding ride. If you add heavy bumpers and a winch, you will most likely loose lift height.
Eddie
I just installed this suspension on my 2008 4Dr Rubicon. I’ll add a couple of notes. On my vehicle, contrary to what is stated above, I do need rear brake line extensions as the rear brake lines are very tight at full droop (yes, the shocks were installed). In the front, things are OK.
Other points of interest, when you are stripping things for the spring install, anywhere you can detach the ABS sensor wires from their fixing points on the frame, do it.
For my rig, setting the adjustable track bars I installed at 1/4″ longer than stock was perfect.
A trick I have used for quite some time when dealing with 5 link suspensions for determining if axle is back to stock location transversely under the Jeep is to choose a fixed point on the frame (or engine front cover). Then hang a plumb bob from that point and put a zip tie around the axle where the plub bob hits. Go install the lift, then repeat to see how far the axle is offset left to right.
The front sway bar links are OK since the shocks limit down travel … but they are just barely OK. If you can find a set that are 2″ longer, That’d be perfect.
Overall, I am super pleased with the results of this lift.
I’m a total jeep newbie…at the moment. But after a few years of off roading, will I wish for a higher suspension? Are there advantages to 2″ versus higher (say, city driving/comfort)?
Hi Steve, yes, a 2″ lift coil like the kind OME makes will offer a more comfortable ride than a taller lift. Also, the higher you go, the more you will need to address such as control arm lenght, trackbars, etc. But, if you plan on going taller, I would recommend that you get a budget boost as it is cheap.
Eddie
So with this kit, without replacing with a longer driveshaft there really is no way of telling how long it will last? I guess that is the only thing that scares me at this point…
Actually, that would be the case with any kit on a 2-door as the rear drive shaft is so short.
Eddie
Hello Eddie
I have a 2007 Sahara Unlimited JK. I have installed Warn front and rear bumpers with tire carrier, front tube, skid plate, winch mount and Powerplant winch. Olympic 4×4 Products X-Treme Reversa-Bars.
I installed TF 3/4″ spacers in front to compensate for the extra weight. I am very much interested in the OME lift kit. With the additional weight added to my JK and wanting to lift my JK moderately, can you say the OME would be a good fit?
I just completed the OME 2″ lift on my 2 day old Rubocon (less than 100 miles). This write way really helpful and made the whole project pretty painless and fast (3-4 hours). The only alteration from the write up was the ommission of the front 1/2″ OME coil spacers - these were left out at the recommendation of Northridge 4×4. Even without these I still saw way more than 2″ lift - more like 3-4″ by my crude calculations.
Also, there is a rubber hose attached to a nipple on the rear-axle that pops off when I dropped the real axle. You may want to add a note to re-attach when the projet is complete - not sure what this is - anyone tell me? Other than that I found no major problems with the write-up but I woudl echo Sam’s comment above about removing any one of the clips where the rear ABS lines are attched to the frame - I found I had to take out the upper frame attachment as well as the first attachment on the hub.
Thanks again - great write-up.
Colin
P.S. - the ride is pretty sweet too so far
Hi James, yes, the OME will be a good fit for you but you might want to hang on to the spacers you already have as they may still be needed to help compensate for the weight of your bumper and winch.
Hi Colin, the hose you are refering to is the axle breather and yes, if it comes off, you need to reinstall it.
Eddie
I am sold on this kit, one last question. If I install this with the stock X rims and tires will I have any clearance issues with the sway bar links in the rear?
Not exactly and it depends on the size tires you plan on running. If you run stock tires or stock width tires, you will not have any problems. If you run 12.50 wide tires on your stock wheels, you will have rubbing issues but not necessarily on the links.
Eddie
Hey Eddie, awhile back you refered me to a link for you outings. For some reason it no longer works. I still would like to tag along with your group if I can swing the time off and it is up this way some.Say Garcia’s. Dude you must be a typing fool I see all the Emails you return. I don’t think the two index fingers I use to type could take it. Hunt and peck.
Hey coyot’e, we post most of our outting in the SoCal staging area on JK-Forum: http://www.jk-forum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=45
Eddie
Thanks for the great write up. I have a 2007 JK Sahara and I’m going to purchase the OME 2 inch lift. My question is based on tire size. If I keep my stock rims, will 33 inch tires rub? Any feedback on appropriate size or recommended brand of tire would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your help…
With this kit you can easily fit 35″ tires with out rubbing at a flex but you might see some rubbing at a full turn with stock wheels. With 33’s, so long as you get them only 10.50 wide, you should be okay but if you go 12.50, you should get some wheel spacers to give you a bit more clearance for your sidewalls.
Thank you so much for this write-up. I’ve heard so many good things about OME lifts and I’m looking forward to installing it on my JK Unlimited. I wanted to inquire about the instructions. I just noticed that 13-17 is missing. I wanted to double check if this was just a mistype.
Thanks again!
Hi Tess, yes, it was just a mistype and I have since fixed it.
Eddie
Thanks for the feedback. Please pardon the simplicity of this question. Prior to lifting the jeep, where the 33’s an issue without the lift? Did they rub when (and if) you hit the trails? I’m probably going to purchase tires first (budget constraints) and then add the lift at a future date. Just want to make sure that the progression is appropriate. Thanks in advance.
Hi Albert, for the most part, you’ll be fine running 33’s and no lift but you will see some rubbing when disconnected and on the trail.
Eddie
As far as eventually replacing with longer driveshafts, does this also mean that one would have to purchase control arms at the same time?
Jeeper, you’re not replacing your factory driveshaft with a longer one but rather one with u-joints and a double cardin. For the rear, you will need adjustable upper control arms to dial in your pinion angle.
Eddie
Thanks for the writeup. I have a question on the 1/2″ spacers. Do you need those for the front as well and if not how come? Does it matter if I plan to add a rear bumper with tire carrier eventually?
Sorry I meant “rear” as well in my previous post. Thanks.
I installed this with the heavy springs. I measured before and after. Looks like 2 3/4 ” in the rear and 3″ in the front. 07 unlimited X 4 dr. Dave at Northridge 4×4 Thanks for your patience and outstanding customer service. No kidding people I ordered the parts over the phone and I think they arrived before I hung up:). The kit doesnot come with ajustable track bars and in conversation with Eddie I felt the need to be able to dial it perfect, so I ordered the full traction front bar and a teraflex rear relocation bracket. Dave price front and rear bars but my funds are tight.So this is why rear bracket. I should have listened to Dave. After testing I found the shock tube nailed the relocation bracket under compression. Now this is where a good company stands out. Dave listened to my plight and we worked out a fair deal. The parts are on the way and we will be wheeling again. Also many thanks to John and Eddie for the instructions.This kit really rides well. Handling is as good ( I think better ) than stock.
Coy Williams
Silver Unlimited X 4 dr soft top
Warrior rack
Radio shack cb custom mount
Cooper STT 33″ on Moab 17s
True Flow XDI air intake
Gibson dual split rear cat back
Hypertech Max energy power programmer
Soon to have Smittybilt XRC 10 winch and matching XRC bumper.
Rubicon 2dr 08, installing shrockworks midwidth bumper,rear full bumper, plus the powerplant HP. Will the OME lift compensate for the front end drop, (removing cable, using Synthetic rope).Will I have to add front and rear adjustable track bar to recenter my axles, or might the CV boot still rub?
if you did not get the 1/2″ spacers with your kit, you will want to as they will help compensate for the drop. adjustable track bars aren’t needed per se but if you want to recenter your axles, they will be your best bet. your rear cv boots will be pinching but it will take some time before they fail.
Eddie
Your saying that I only need a 1/2 inch spacer(fron and rear) (no spacers with the shrockworks bumper), I will not need the old man EMU lift kit? what will be the draw backs not spacing at all?
Thanks Eddie
No, what I’m saying is that the bumpers you want will cause your Jeep to sag a bit. 1/2″ coil spacers in addition to your OME lift will help correct for the lift hight loss.
A unexpected plus. We have gained aprox 3 mile to the gal that was lost with the rack an tire changes. The XDI,Hypertech and,Gibson improved the mileage. Although the radio is at 3/4 on the freeway. Oh well now it matches the tv volume.
Eddie
OME lift kit. I looked at several sites that carry the OME lift kit, they do not have all the material shown in your write up missing the spacers, and possible some brackets. could you direct me to a site that has the all the material shown in your write up.
Thanks again
Jeff
Hi Jeff, I believe the new OME kits are sold with HD coils and so the spacers are not needed even if you have a heavy front bumper and winch. However, this kit was purchased at http://www.northridge4×4.com and I would recommend that you give David a call there at 360-340-0282 as he should be able to help you out.
Eddie
Hi Eddie
Thank you for your time, this clears up my concerns.
jeff
Dear W.O.L.
I bought the OME 3″ lift (HD Springs) from Northridge. I have a 2 dr JK. I know you are anal on how you build your JK, but is this gonna be more than 3″?? Will it end up being like 4″ and will it be mandatory that I get a new driveshaft? Still stock, no bumper.
when all is said and done, the lift will sit about 3″ taller than stock. if you have an automatic, there is a good chance that your front shaft will tear off the boot on the tranny at a full flex. while this is not really a problem, over time, water and debris will cause it to squeak - but, it will still work. in the rear, a new shaft will not be needed immediately, but, over time, the steeper angle on the shaft cv boots will cause them to wear out prematurely. once compromised, water and debris will get inside and cause the bearing to fail. at that point and time, you will need a new shaft as well.
Installed OME lift kit HD
2Dr Rubicon 08, I have a problem with the OME kit a company that installed the OME replaced the rod from the sway bar to the axel. from the oringal 5 inch to a 10.5 inch when compressing and rising the front tires they rub the inside of the tire causing enough damage in a short time to ruin the sidewall of the tire, and two tires more coming out of the run. any feed back would be great
what kind of wheels are you running, how much backspacing do you have on them and what size tires do you have? any and or all of these variables may make what you are experiencing possible.
Stock wheels and tires no back spacing that I’m aware of, Front and rear adjustable track bars,( Your suggestion in one of your write ups)
Thank you for your time Eddie
are you rubbing only on one side or both? if it’s just one side, your axle probably isn’t completely centered. if it’s on both, your rubbing is most likely being caused by the increase in stuff you are now seeing. while bump stop extensions would address this issue, so would new wheels with less backspacing.
Both front tires. What I can see at this point is the additional length arm 5 1/5 inch longer from factory arm , along with the nut head (not flat) adding an additional 1/2 in, plus the 1 1/2 frame tubing sticking out past the frame another 1/2 in may cause the arm (fresh grind marks axel tube that sticks out form frame), in the right posistion to bind aginst both front inside of the tires, where the nut head (5/8in bold head) adjustable track bars were installed keep axels align.
Everyone,
Thanks for the very detailed write up. I have the 2 dr x. I will be puting on the OME HD lift along with mopar offroad front and rear bumpers and warn 9000 winch. Also have dual tops, hard in Winter, soft in Nice weather. Any idea how the Jeep will sit? Will I need anything else? I am hoping to avoid new driveshafts, track bars etc… Maybe in the future but not in budget right now.
Thanks so much again for the write up, questions and responses.
Vince
Hi you all, I read the entire comments and fpumd it very helpful in all the small details that have to be aware off, I’m not from the states and planning to buy a lif kit for my new 4 door rubicon. I want some budget lift and I was wondering wich one is more reccomended the FT 3″ BB or the OME 2″?
Thanks for everything
Awesome write up and great comments and questions from everyone.
One question I still have is on my 08 2 door Rubicon, I am going to put an AEV front bumper along with a Warn 9.5ti winch (220lbs). Using the HD front springs will I still need to use the spacers to get it to set level?
Thanks
most likely especially since you are adding all that weight up front and nothing in the rear.
WOL,
I just purchased the OME lift for my ‘07 JK w/HD front and MD back springs from Northridge 4X4. Dave said spacers are not included nor are they needed. Should they be included even if they are not needed?
the kit i installed was one of the first and changes have been made since then. needless to say, the spacers are more than likely not needed but i do not know for sure.
OME lift kit HD which include front and rear track bars. When installed I had issues with more tire rubbing, not only rubbing, also tire destruction. several things to watch out for, the company that installed my kit they had installed 10.5 inch swaybar arms links with nut head sticking a bit too far (in front). using the JK site. (thanks to all in the JK Forum)I removed the junk sway bar links from the front, removed the rear sway bar links put the rear up front, add 1 1/2 wheel spacers, for now installed the junk links on the rear sway bar. adjust the steering (jk site write up) this has worked out great, and solved my tire busting rubbing problem. Anyone looking for information concerning modifications to our JK will find the information on our Project JK site.
Thanks for all the comments
Hello Eddie,
I had seen your write up when I was looking at the EMU 2″ lift kit. I ordered it yesterday and am running a currently stock ‘08 Sahara with stock Rubi wheels and 32’s. Do I need 1.5″ wheel spacers to make sure nothing rubs? If they are not needed, if I add them at the same time it would only give me a wider wheel base - is that correct. Thanks in advance.
Also Eddie I am installing a winch at the same time as the lift. Currently my front stock suspension even with an Olympic bumper is 1/2″ taller than my rear so I’m thinking that the height after lift and winch install should be about even - Yes/No?
Thanks again.
hi steve, yes, you are correct. the OME kit will not come with new longer rear sway bar links and so you will not need to run wheel spacers. however, if you do run spacers, it will just give you a wider stance and that’s a good thing. as for your other questions, it’s hard to say for sure but yes, that does sound right
Great write up! It almost motivates me to install this kit on my own. This is my first Jeep and first lift so I’m skeptical about doing the job myself. I am by no means a mechanic but I have always performed the basic maintenance on all my vehicles. Do you think I should take the plunge and tackle this job? Furthermore, what other adjustments/upgrades will be needed on a stock 2007 4dr automatic Sahara? Thanks!
yes, i most definitely think you should do this on your own. without adjustable control arms or track bars, you will not be able to make any other adjustments. granted, i might consider adding an adjustable from track bar and front lower control arms so that you can recenter your axle and give it more caster.
Barcelona (SPAIN), 11 May 2009
A question from a novice to a great expert:
I have a JK Sahara 2007 with the following modifications:
OME 2” coils and shocks
JKS Manufacturing Front and Rear adjustable Trackbars.
Wheels spacers 1,25”
Wheels MT 17 x 9, 4,5 Backspace.
Tires MT Baja MTZ 33×12,5×17.
Front Bumper Rugged Ridge HXD with winch.
Rear Jumper High Rock.
I want to know if it is necessary to change upper and lower control arm.
And Rear CV Drive Shaft.
Thank you
Fernando
So, to reiterate, Adjustable Front Track Bar and Front Lower Control Arms should be in my future if I install this lift kit, correct? How long can I wait to install these after the lift kit is done?
hi fernando, adjustable control arms aren’t necessary but you may want to get at the very least a set of front lowers as they will allow you to add caster. also, if you have a 2-door, you will want adjustable rear uppers as they will help you to dial in your pinion angle.
if you have a 4-door, you may not even feel the need for these upgrades at all. but, if you do feel some flightyness in your handling at high speeds, adding adjustable front lower arms and extending them to about 23″ eye to eye will give you about 6° of caster and that will help out a bunch. the track bar is just nice to have but not really necessary.
Great write up !! I had an OME lift on my Liberty, and plan on getting one for my new 4 door JK X. OME rides great, better than stock on my Liberty thats for sure.
Thanks Again !!
Hi Eddie,
I had the OME LD 2″ lift installed two months ago.
Also with the lift I upgraded the 255/55 R18 tyres to 285/65 R18 (no wheel spacers).
I love the look and the ride. The only thing is that in some sharp, mostly right corners, the ESP fires. It even does it at very low speeds, mostly in roundabout type turns. It didnt use to do that when it was stock.
I have read up on the subject and centered the steering wheel as good as possible. The next step is probably the caster right?
It is not as bad as some of the JK owners describe but it still irritates me.
I guess my question is, if I continue to drive like this will I break or wear down something? and what do I need to order to make this go away? Adjustable front trackbar, front lower control arms or both?
Thanks and keep up the good work,
Mike
did you make sure to recenter your steering wheel after the lift. if it is just a bit off as it should be after installing a lift, that would be enough to get your esp to go off. also, how much air are you running in your tires. with 285,s you should only need about 30 psi. anything more and you can get esp issues too.
I am running 30 psi exactly at the moment, having come down from 35 psi, but there is no noticable differance. I have centered the steering wheel 3 times so far. It is hard to judge because almost every road here, either slopes to the left or right.
I read somewere that the bolts have to face forward, does that have a big impact, cause mine don’t! Do you have any tips for the centering?
Thanks!!
if you have your steering wheel pretty centered, give it a bit of time and your computer should learn in time. if you still have esp issues, could be you just need a bit more caster
Hi there,
I installed the ARB lift kit with Cooper Discoverer ATR 305X70XR16. And I am glad to state that the lift is really amazing. However, I am getting a lot of wobble in the JK once I go above 80Km/h. I have changed the steering stabiliser to Rancho and also done the wheel balancing one more time. But the wobble would not go…
I had taken this lift kit from a friend who used it for about 25000 kms.
I also want to know is there any difference in the lift kit for 2 door and a 4 door, cos he was using this lift kit on a 4 door. Your help on the issue is highly appreciated as I am scared to take my jeep out and rather than taking it to some other mechanic I would really appreciate to get a reply from you.
Regards
KC
a speed related wobble is almost always a tire balancing problem. even if you’ve had your tires balanced, there is a good chance they are still off. large off road tires are difficult to balance and it is not uncommon to have them rebalanced multiple times to get them on right.
I know the writeup install was done early on, but do you know if those springs in the writeup were standard or heavy duty?
Also, I plan on re-using the swaybar links, rear trackbar drop bracket, and brake line drop brackets from my TF BB…see any issues with using those in conjunction with the OME std lift?
they were the standard coils. if you want more height, you will need to get the hd coils
also, you should be fine reusing your tf parts.
Actually, I had ordered the std kit from Northridge, and was hoping it will turn out like the writeup. That’s plenty of lift for me with my 33’s. If that is the case, I guess I can re-use my TF BB bumpstop extensions also…although they are a pain to take off and put back on…
I am putting the OME 2″ lift on my 4 2008 door Rubicon next week. I have an extra set of rims that I am planning on mounting 35″ tires when used off road. I know that back spacers are needed. Do you recommend 1.5″ or 1.25″ spacers or does it make much difference. In Utah they are strict about tires extending out past the fenders and I want to put the smallest spacer on the will work. Thanks. Spirtree
personally, i would get 1.5″ as it’ll give you just a hair more breathing room and won’t push your tires out that much more.
hey my names mike i have recently had a offroad shop install a heavey duty old man emu suspesion kit on my 2004 jeep wrangler tj, and i noticed that my jeep is taller on the driver side then the passanger , i noticed the piece of paper on the coils said A and B varieying per shock. so front left is A, front right B, back left is B , and back right is A i feel the back right and left are mixed up per the shop did not notice the spring lengths. can u tell me which combo A and B, should both A’s and B’s might be the problem or who to talk to. where can i find this out so i can reset the shocks in the proper way????
thank you
mevanking@yahoo.com
what you are seeing is common on JK’s and some of us refer to it as the “jk lean”. after installing a lift, this lean becomes more pronounced. the best way to fix it is to install a set of adjustable rear sway bar links and set the passenger side links a bit taller.
hey there, i was wondering about the rusty’s 2 inch lift. it also has coils and shocks. is there good things said, bad things said about this lift? i want to lift my jk but am worried about side effects later down the road, i have a 09 2door and am running 285’s on my stock steels, i just like the steel wheels ha ha. thanks whip
i haven’t run this lift before so i can’t really say anything good or bad about it. depending on the spring rate and how the shocks are valved, it could offer a decent ride or, it can offer a terrible ride. what i like about the old man emu kit is that their coils are known around the world as being some of the most comfortable you can get and the same can definitely be said about their shocks. when it comes to old man emu, you get what you pay for and more.
I am looking to buy an OME 2″ lift, the same one you have. I am confused on which one to buy, though, because it says there is a light load lift and a heavy load lift? I am planning on replacing the front, rear bumpers and the rock sliders, along with some other minor after market pieces…so would that be considered a “heavy load”? Thanks
the light duty kit will give you about a 2″ lift and the heavy duty kit about a 3″ lift. if you are going to install heavy bumpers and rocker guards, i would recommend the heavy duty.
I am trying to decide what size wheel I want to use. What is the size and backspacing on the wheel you are using? Also, what is the tire size you are using, thanks.
in this write-up, the jk was running 33″ tires with 4.5″ of backspacing
Are they 33×12.5?
yes
Are they 17 inch rims? Sorry for all of the irrelevant questions
yes, they are 17’s
On Pro Comp’s tire website they have this 33 inch tire in 3 different places. The numbers on the 3 tires are 325/60R-18, 325/50R-20, and 305/65R-17. I have no clue as to how to read these numbers. Do you know which one it might be? Also, do the numbers at the end, for instance, on the second one, -20, does that mean a 20 inch rim?
yes, the 20, 18 or 17 refers to your wheel size. for instance, a 285/75R17 would be a 33″ tire on a 17″ wheel
Did those 1/2 coil spacers come with the OME lift you ordered? Also, I need a 33×12.5 on a 17″ rim…I cant find one anywhere! do they even make a tire that exact size?
the spacers were added due to the fact that the jeep was going to get a heavy front bumper and winch. regarding tires, what brands have you been looking at - should be easy to find in a bfg mt or goodyear mtr. a good metric equivalent would be 315/75R17
If I got the OME heavy lift, would I need the spacers? I am deciding between the BFG A/T’s or the pro comp xtreme A/T.
spacers and the installation of them is purely subjective and you would have to determine that after you install your lift. personally, i would say no but, that’s just me.
Have you had any rubbing issues on or offroad with the 12.5″ wide tire with only 4.5″ of backspacing?
Does this lift require an adjustable track bar, control arms, new sway bars, or new brake lines? Can you use bump stops with this lift? thanks
depends on what brand tire you are running. some 12.50’s are wider than others but, for the most part, no, there have been no rubbing issues. also, adjustalbe track bars would be nice to have but not necessary. brakeline are not needed as the shocks that come with this kit will not allow for the over extensions of them and last but not least, yes, you can install bumpstop extensions with this kit.