Instructions
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Here’s a shot of all the components you will need including the ARB High Output On-Board Air Compressor, Hose Kit and under the hood mounting bracket. |
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| 1. Using a 13mm wrench, remove the 2 nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s master cylinder to the brake booster. |
2. Slip the ARB compressor mounting bracket over the studs as shown in this pic. |
3. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s master cylinder onto the mounting studs on the brake booster and secure it in place using the factory nuts. A 13mm wrench will be needed for this job. |
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| 4. Take the 4 carriage bolts that come with the kit and insert them into the mounting holes on the ARB air compressor as shown this pic. |
5. Carefully place the ARB air compressor on top of the mounting bracket making sure that all 4 carriage bolts go through. Then, loosely install the nuts provided onto the bolts. |
6. Using a 10mm deep socket, secure the ARB air compressor to the mounting bracket by tightening up the 4 nuts. |
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| 7. Firmly grab the plastic red plug on the front of your ARB air compressor and remove it as shown. |
8. Install the round ARB air filter onto the threaded hole where the plastic red plug was attached to. |
9. Take the pressure sensor that came with your ARB air compressor and remove the plastic red plug. |
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| 10. Apply some teflon tape to the threads of your ARB air compressor pressure sensor. |
11. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, remove the plastic red plug from the side of your ARB air compressor as shown. |
12. Using a 10mm wrench, loosen the nut on the back of your ARB air compressor so that you can rotate the small tank up or down as needed to provide enough room for the pressure sensor and valve connector. |
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| 13. Apply some teflon tape to the threads of your ARB air compressor 3-way splitter as shown. |
14. Attach the ARB air compressor pressure sensor to the 3-way splitter provided. |
15. Attach the ARB air compressor valve connector to the 3-way splitter and secure it in place using a 19mm wrench. |
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| 16. Install the assembled 3-way splitter onto the side port on your ARB air compressor as shown. |
17. Rotate the small tank on your ARB compressor until the valve is properly positioned and then secure it in place by tightening the mounting nut using a 10mm wrench. |
18. Lay the long wiring harness that comes with the ARB air compressor along the firewall of your Jeep JK Wrangler so that it extends from the battery to the brake booster. Then, attach the two plugs onto the pressure switch as shown in this pic. |
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| 19. Plug the power connector of your ARB air compressor into the receiving end of the wiring harness. |
20. Position the weather protected fuse terminal so that it’s easily accessible and then zip tie it to the wiring harness attached to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s fire wall. |
21. Install the relay that comes with your ARB air compressor kit into the wiring harness plug. |
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| 22. Making sure that the relay is positioned vertically, zip tie it in place to the wiring harness attached to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s firewall as shown in this pic. |
23. Secure the rest of your ARB air compressor wiring harness by zip tying it to the wiring harness attached to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s firewall. |
24. Over on the passenger side of your Jeep JK Wrangler, attach the provided solderless ring terminal to the red power lead extending from the ARB air compressor wiring harness. |
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| 25. Attach the provided solderless ring terminal to the black ground lead extending from the ARB air compressor wiring harness. |
26. Using a 10mm wrench, remove the nut attached to the body of your Jeep JK Wrangler right next to the fuse box, attach the ARB air compressor ground wire to the stud and then reinstall the nut securing everything in place. |
27. Using a 12mm wrench, remove the nut on top of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s negative battery clamp. |
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| 28. Using a 10mm wrench, remove the nut on top of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s positive battery clamp. |
29. Attach the ARB air compressor red power lead to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s positive battery clamp and secure it in place using the factory nut. A 10mm wrench will be needed for this job. |
30. Attach the ARB air compressor black ground lead to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s negative battery clamp and secure it in place using the factory nut. A 12mm wrench will be needed for this job. |
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| 31. Open up the passenger side door of your Jeep JK Wrangler and pry off the dashboard side panel. Then, push a straightened out wire coat hanger through the small foam filled hole on the firewall as shown in this pic. |
32. Back under the hood, tape the multiple colored switch wires extending from the ARB air compressor wiring harness to the end of the wire coat hanger. |
33. Back inside your Jeep JK Wrangler, pull the wire coat hanger back out through the hole. You should now have the multiple colored switch wires inside the cab of your Jeep. |
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| 34. Using a trim panel tool or flathead screwdriver, pry off the bottom panel of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s dash as shown. |
35. Take your new Daystar switch panel and carefully cut out one of the knockouts using a utility knife. |
36. Take the remaining wiring harness that comes with the ARB air compressor kit, locate the white plug ends, connect the two together. |
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| 37. Carefully color match and insert the loose wires that you just brought in through the firewall into the slots of the blank plug end as shown in this pic. |
38. Assemble the rocker plate onto the switch provided with the ARB air compressor kit. |
39. Install the ARB air compressor rocker switch into the opening you made in the Daystar switch panel. |
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40. Take the wires tagged with the label ISOLATION SWITCH and connect the pre-terminated wire ends to the back of the switch. Please refer to this photo or the wiring diagram that comes with the ARB air compressor kit for proper placement. |
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41. Using a small flathead screwdriver, remove the metal trim tab clips attached to your factory dash panel and attach them to your new Daystar switch panel. Then, install your Daystar switch panel to the dash on your Jeep JK Wrangler. |
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42. Last but not least, install the head shield onto the quick release chuck on your ARB air compressor. This shield will make it easier for you to release the air hose when everything is hot under your hood. |
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43. Turn on the switch inside your Jeep JK Wrangler and then check under the hood to make sure everything is working properly. |
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| Using the ARB High Output On-Board Air Compressor is as simple as plugging in one end of the air up hose to the quick release chuck on the compressor and then the other end to your tire using the valve stem chuck provided with the kit. Turn on the switch and check the pressure in your tires from time to time with an air pressure gauge. It really is as simple as that.Please let me know if you have any questions. |
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Eddie,
You make everything seem so easy with your write ups. Thanks for taking the time to put them together. I have learned so much from them.
This is a cool addition and hopefully I will be able to add one in the future. This would also be good for airing up tubes for boating and stuff.
Also, can you give any stats on perfomrance yet?
glad to know that my write-ups have been helping you out. regarding performance, i have to say that i’m very impressed with it. certainly, it performs just as well as the powerplant i have on my white jk if not a little better. i’d say that i can bring my 35″ tire from 14psi up to 28 psi in about 3 minutes or less. hope that helps.
Looks great ! I think that’s my next project, but where did you get the brake booster mounting bracket ?
i got the bracket from northridge4×4 as part of a package
Great write up.
I’m in the middle of this install right now and am wondering if you have advice about the rocker switch light installation. The instructions say to “splice the red wire with yellow stripe to the positive wire of the outlet pair.”
Then splice the blue wire with a white stripe onto an active illumination supply wire.”
Did you just not connect the switch light, or could you help me out with which wires would be best to splice into?
HI Eddie,
This is very good project. It is very clear including pix. Would you mind letting me know the size of the bracket. I could not find it in Australia.
I have spoken to ARB, they have no idea.
I would like to custom make one for myself
Thanks in advanced.
TV
It’s pretty easy to make your own out. I copied another guy on the forum and created one from 4″ aluminum angle stock. Some discussion is here:
http://jk-forum.com/showthread.php?t=73129
Nice write up. What are your thoughts about adding a remote two or two and a half gallon air tank to this set up?
Do you think the compressor and small tank would provide enough air to run an air tool such as a drill or rachet?
Thanks for this forum, it has really helped me to get the most out of my JK.
Thanks Mike,
I have a friend make one for me after I have measure and draw it on a cardboard.
I have it install now under the hood.
One more problem, this device have 2 cables that ARB said to connect to Ignition cable and one to Dash illunition. I have connect the second one to car body. I do not know what color is Ignition cable (RED?)
Please help
Thanks in advanced
Hey Eddie, you installed the mounting bracket in front of the m/c right? Not between the m/c and the booster…
Nice write up!
Will this set up run lockers also? Or do I need to install a tank?
I have the same question re: lockers. Will this system power the ARB lockers?
Quadratecs site indicates that it will run air lockers. Hope it will run air tools, I just ordered a kit from Northridge. If you can plumb a line and run a seperate tank you should be able to use air tools. I mean if warns powerplant says it can run airtools of its small tank than so should this set up.
Very interested in the ability/difficulty of a tank set up with this, and wether or not its needed (air tools) TIA. JEEP ON
Hey, thanks for the great writeup! Helped me so much, never would have done it myself without this. I have the same question as terry though, I’m stuck on the last two wires…. one goes to the ignition (its a red/yel wire) and one goes to the dash lights.
Anyone have any luck with those? Everything I think is in the right places but I assume its not working (it doesnt) till I get those two in place.
Thanks again!
Joe
I’m having the same problem with the last two wires that need to be spliced into the ignition…
ANYONE? HELP? PLEASE
make sure your ignition is on or it wont work.also does anyone know how to rewire the switches so you can run the front locker independantly without the rear locker on?thanks in advance.
I have the same questions about the ignition and light wires. Have everything hooked up just like you write-up but still no go (yeah I have the ignition switch on lol)
thanks
I had the same issues about the ignition and light wires, so I grabbed my handy dandy Fluke multimeter and took myself to school.
Here’s the answer:
First remove the center console bezel to gain access to the wiring loom.
Switched Power:
Use the included scotch lock connector to connect the red-yellow wire into the blue-violet accessory power lead that runs to the cigarette lighter connector. Note: do not tap into the aux power port on the passenger side. it is always on.
Illumination Dimmer Lead:
Use the included scotch lock connector to connect the blue-white wire into the orange-beige ilumination power lead that runs to the square multi wire connector that attaches to the AC/Heat controls.
Straighten up all the wires so they are neat and out of the way, button it up and be prepared for a bit of compressor noise.
This worked for me on a 2010 Rubi…I’m not making any guarantees. Splice into your shiney new JK’s wiring at your own risk.
Brett
Brett,
Worked perfectly in my 2010 Rubi. Thanks for doing the school work!
You definitely recommend this over portables?
sure i do. you always have it with you and it doesn’t take up any additional room inside. works great too.
Thanks WOL. My last question is, how durable is this setup? Is it relatively water proof for those of us who do some stream crossings/deep puddles?
just finished my installation. writeup was excellent.
thank you very much.
Eddie,
Can you run air tools off this compressor, or is the Viair system better for that. I’d like to do both.
-Scott
not really. if you want to run air tools, you really need to have a tank. i do know of some people who have a tank installed and run a line to it and that seems to work. the same goes for viair. if you get a tank with it, it can be quite useful.
Hey WOL, awesome write up. I just ordered the Compresser and Hose kit this evening, and I noticed on your write up that you say the Brake Booster mounting bracket is required. Is it necessary or just a bonus? I couldnt find it anywhere on the Northridge Canada site, should I call them in the morning to add it onto the order if possible, or can I get away with not having it? Whtat does it do anyway? Thanks a bunch. Would be lost without some of your write ups!
I picked up the compressor and bracket from Northridge Canada, and installed it today.
Brett (the gent with the multimeter), your description of the lines to splice into was very helpful.
To whomever suggested bolting the compressor to the bracket prior to mounting the bracket…thank you! I’ve got great big gorilla mitts, so trying to tighten up those nylock nuts underneath the bracket once it was mounted would have been a long, painful process.
If anyone is like me and did not get the Daystar switch panel because they have a six speed, the ARB switches will fit quite nicely just inside the driver’s side door - just above the speaker. I have one there right now, but I’m sure that you could fit all three if you wanted to run lockers.
Can I mount this into a right hand drive Jeep with the included hard ware?
So how well has this unit performed in the time you have had it installed? Also, I do not want to replace my dash panel with the Daystar switch panel, how exactly does the supplied switch function? Does it push in and stay in for “on”, or does it push in and return out turning the pump on.
An example would be the factory traction control switch or the Hazard light switch. I suppose I could always order one of the option switches that I do not have like sway-bar disconnect, fit it into the factory slot in the dash panel and use it.
well, i’ve had and used this thing for quite a while now and so far, it’s still working like a champ and i love it. as far as switches go, it’s just a basic rocker that stays in one position when on or off. but, it is connected to a relay so you could use just about any switch you want.
Great write-up! It saved me from RTFM by ARB. I would suggest adding to the original writeup about the last two wires for ignition and dash illumination. I jacked with all the connections until I came back and read the follow ups above and realized I need to connect them! I wanted to do this to my 2000 TJ Sahara but waited for my new 2011 Rubi.
On switch placement, I also didn’t want to change to the Daystar switch panel. On my 2011 Rubi Unlimited, there is a cut-out that is hidden by the glove box on the left side. It was round, but I trimmed about an 1/8″ from the top and bottom and the switch fit perfectly and is hidden when you close the glove box but doesn’t interfere with the switch operation. Since I have a Rubi, I didn’t need the locker connections but wanted to On-board Air. Next I will add the 2.5 gallon air tank.
Thanks again!
So I installed the ARB on board air kit this weekend. I am very happy. I did install more to my taste a bit. I found an unused foam covered firewall hole just to the right of the brake vacuum booster and down a few inches, this brought me into the drivers section perfectly and allowed me to run my remaining loom from that point. My kit contained to plugs for the air locker solenoids that I just taped off nicely under the hood with electrical friction tape. Since I do not have power window switches, and never will, being equipped with factory half doors, I measured and cut with my dremel the opening for the ARB supplied switch perfectly between the center air vents. I then tapped into the lower left keyed Cig lighter 12V wire to poewer the switch, and picked up 12v from the small climate control connector for my dash lights. My ARB kit was shipped with the quick release collars already installed onto outlet fitting, so I screwed the chuck release to the end of the outlet tee, and put the high pressure switch in the middle facing the firewall, and the tank with tee was rotated to the right drivers fender a bit to clear the hood when closed. I did learn that trying to fit hands and body parts under the dash, and behind the center trim panel tends to incite a real bad attitude before too long.
I followed these instructions last night with the aid of Brett’s wiring notes and I think I am almost there. I was able to find the wire for Switched Power he mentions however, the Illumination Dimmer Lead wires did not match up in my 07. Is it ok to leave this wire not spliced into anything? I ran the compressor last night for a while and everything seemed to work fine.
Any advice on how to pry the dash back???
Hi Eddie,
For information only:
After half year I find problem with reccomended place - on booster bolts. Weight of ARB compressor make a bent of outside booster’s cup with two bolts and as postponse is likage between two parts of booster body.
Strongly not recommend this place
ARB’s directions say if installing on a 12V system that you can combine the two black wires to attach to negative battery terminal. Why do you not need a ground in a 12V system? I hate electronics! Thanks in advance- Mike
Great write up! Is there one for the 2006 TJ somewhere? The directions from ARB are confusing because I am not using the lockers, just for airing up tires….
Great write up. Finally got the chance to begin the project on our 2007 JKU 4 door. Placed the high out put air compressor just in front of the battery. Removed the battery tub and through bolted the mount to the tub. Ran the wiring harness through the existing wiring harness, and up across the dashboard using the large gap at the base of the windshield to the drivers side ‘A’ post. I used a Rugged Ridge switch plate and mounted all three switches there. I tied the dimmer blue wire with a white stripe to a orange and beige wire on the back of the instrument cluster. The red / yellow ignition wire was wired as described above to the drivers side cigarette lighter blue / violet wire. Worked perfectly. Next project is the front and rear lockers, and air tank. Thanks again for the reference and great write up.