Instructions
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This is a pic of all the parts you should get with a TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost with shock extensions. Take some time to make sure you have all the parts shown as well as all the tools listed on the left prior to starting this project. |
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1. Park your Jeep JK Wrangler on a level surface. If you have an automatic transmission, use an 18mm socket to remove the 3 bolts (one on each frame rail and one on the cross member) securing its skid plate to the frame of your Jeep JK Wrangler. Remove the skid plate and set it aside for now. |
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2. Chock your rear tires, loosen (but do not remove) the lug nuts on your front wheels, raise the front end of it one side at a time from the axle using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts. |
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3. Remove the wheels off your Jeep JK Wrangler using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under the front axle to help support it. |
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4.Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolts and nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. |
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5. Slip a 19mm wrench in between the sway bar link and sway bar itself and hold the ball joint stud in place while removing the nut securing it in place with 18mm wrench. Completely remove the sway bar links from your Jeep JK Wrangler’s sway bar and discard them. |
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6. Using a 5/8″ wrench, hold your Jeep JK Wrangler’s shock can in place just below the upper shock mount to keep it from spinning. Then, remove the stud mount nut above using a 16mm wrench. |
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7. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front shocks to the lower axle mount. |
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8. Remove the bolt securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front track bar to the front axle mount using a 21mm socket. This can be a tough bolt to remove and an impact wrench or breaker bar will help to make this job easier. Once removed, set aside the flagged nut and leave the track bar attached to the frame. |
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9. Being mindful of your brake lines, carefully lower your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front axle until the factory front coils can be slipped out of the upper perch and be removed completely with ease. |
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| 10. Firmly grab the yellow factory bump stop on your Jeep JK Wrangler and pry it out of its retaining cup. |
11. Slide the factory rubber coil isolator down and off the upper spring perch of your Jeep JK Wrangler. |
12. Install your new TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost front coil spacers up onto the upper spring perch followed by your Jeep JK Wrangler’s factory rubber coil isolator as shown in this photo. |
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| 13. Take your your new TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost front bump stop extensions and apply some white lithium grease to the connecting end of it. |
14. Place one of your new TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost rear bump stop extensions on top of the lower spring perch of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front axle and position the front bump stop on top of it just under the retaining cup. |
15. Using your floor jack, slowly raise your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front axle up until the TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost front bump stop plugs into the retaining cup. |
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16. Lower your Jeep JK Wrangler’s axle back down, remove rear bump stop extension sitting on top of the lower spring perch and then install the factory yellow rubber bump stop into the new TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost front bump stop extensions. |
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17. Install your factory front coils back onto your Jeep JK Wrangler. You may need to press down on your front axle a bit more in order to get it in but spring compressors shouldn’t be needed. |
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| 18. If you purchased your TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost with shock extensions, layout and assemble the pieces to it as shown in this photo. Please note, you will need to reuse the factory Jeep JK Wrangler rubber bushings and upper washer. |
19. Using a 13/16″ and 5/8″ wrench, install the TeraFlex shock extension main shaft onto the upper stud mount of your factory Jeep JK Wrangler front shocks. |
20. Slip on the new large washer that comes with your TeraFlex front shock extensions onto the main shaft. Follow this with the stepped factory rubber bushing. |
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21. Slip your front shock with new TeraFlex extensions up into your Jeep JK Wrangler upper shock mount, slip on the upper factory rubber bushing on to the mounting stud, place the large factory upper washer on top of it and then secure everything in place using the factory nut. A 16mm and 5/8″ wrench will be needed for this job. |
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22. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, secure your front shocks to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s axle mount using the factory hardware and tighten the nut and bolt to 56 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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23. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front wheels, lower it back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque, remove the wheel chocks from the rear and place them up front. |
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24. With the engine off, put your key in the ignition, make sure that the steering wheel is unlocked and then have a friend turn it in one direction or the other until you can line up your front track bar bushing hole with the front axle mount hole on your Jeep JK Wrangler. Secure the track bar in place using the factory hardware and tighten it to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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25. If you have an automatic and removed your skid plate earlier, use an 18mm socket to re-install and secure it to the frame of your Jeep JK Wrangler using the 3 factory bolts. |
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26. Lift the rear end of your Jeep JK Wrangler from the differential using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts. Remove the wheels off using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under front the axle to help support it. |
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27. Using a 16mm socket and a 6″-12″ ratchet drive extension, remove your Jeep JK Wrangler’s 2 upper rear shock mount bolts. |
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28. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear shocks to the lower axle mounts. Remove and set aside your shocks for now. |
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29. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolts and nuts securing your rear sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. Then, slip a 19mm wrench in between the sway bar link and sway bar itself and hold the ball joint stud in place while removing the nut securing it in place with 18mm wrench. Completely remove your links and set them aside for now as they will be reused in place of your factory front links. |
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30. Remove the rear track bar bolt and nut from your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower axle mount using a 21mm socket. As was the case with the front track bar, this can be a tough bolt to remove and a breaker bar will help to make this job easier. |
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| 31. Using a 10mm socket, remove the 2 nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s emergency brake cables to the bottom of the tub. This is necessary in order for you to get your rear axle to droop enough to install your new coils. |
32. Using a 10mm socket, unbolt the rear brake line brackets which are fastened to the outside frame rails of your Jeep JK Wrangler. Leave them dangling at this time. |
33. Slowly lower your rear axle being mindful of the ESP wiring. Once your axle is dropped low enough, your factory coils should just about fall out and can be removed with ease. Set aside the upper rubber isolators as they will be reused. |
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| 34. Take your new TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost rear coil spacers and install the Jeep JK Wrangler rear coil rubber isolators onto the center post as shown in this photo. |
35. Apply a small amount of white lithium grease to the knob on the upper side of your new TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost rear coil spacers. |
36. Plug your new TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost rear coil spacers up onto the hole on your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear upper spring perch. |
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37. Re-install your factory coils underneath your new TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost rear coil spacers making sure that it is properly seated on the rubber isolators. |
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| 38. Install 2 of the bolts and washers provided with the kit into the holes on the TeraFlex rear bump stop extension as shown in this photo. |
39. Place the TeraFlex rear bump stop extension on top of the axle bump stop plate making sure that the bolts go through the existing holes. On newer kits, this bump stop will be shaped like a parallagram and have a top that is skewed over to one side from the bottom. Install these with the top surface pointing towards the front of your Jeep JK Wrangler. |
40. Using a 1/2″ and 13mm wrench, secure the TeraFlex rear bump stop extension to your axle bump stop plate using the lock nuts and washer provided with the kit. |
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41. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, install your new TeraFlex sway bar link onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower axle mounts with the factory hardware and tighten them to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. Then, install them to the sway bar using the hardware provided. Once installed, apply some grease to the zerk nipple using a grease gun. |
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42. Using a 10mm socket and the factory hardware, install the TeraFlex rear brake line extension brackets onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s frame rails with the bends pointing toward the center of your Jeep and the notches pointing backward. |
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43. Secure your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear brake lines to the new TeraFlex extension brackets using the bolts, washers and lock nuts provided with the kit. You will need a 7/16″ socket and wrench for this job. |
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44. If you purchased your TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost with shock extensions, layout and assemble the pieces for the rear shocks as shown in this photo. |
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| 45. Loosely install the TeraFlex rear shock extension onto the upper frame mounts of your Jeep JK Wrangler using just one of the long bolts provided with the kit. |
46. Slip one of the small bolts and washer throug the top of your Jeep’s frame rail and loosely secure the TeraFlex rear shock extension bracket to it from under neath using one of the lock nuts and washers provided with the kit. |
47. Loosely install your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear shocks onto the lower axle mounts using the factory hardware. This will help you hold everything in place while you secure the TeraFlex rear shock extension bracket and upper shock mount in palce. |
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48. Using a 17mm socket and 6″-12″ ratchet drive extension, secure your rear shocks and TeraFlex extension brackets to the upper frame mount of your Jeep JK Wrangler with the long bolts and washers provided with the kit. Tighten these bolts to 37 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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49. Using a 1/2″ socket, a 6″-12″ ratchet drive extension and a 1/2″ wrench, tighten the additional small bolt and nut securing your new TeraFlex rear shock extension to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s upper frame mount. |
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50. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, re-install your rear shocks onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower axle mounts using the factory hardware. Tighten these bolts to 56 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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51. Using a 10mm socket, re-secure your Jeep JK Wrangler’s emergency brake cables hanger to the bottom of the tub using the factory nuts. |
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52. Loop a long ratchet strap around your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear track bar frame and axle mount and then ratchet it until your track bar bushing hole and axle mount holes line up enough for you to secure it in place using the factory hardware. |
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53. Tighten the rear track bar bolt to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear wheels, lower it back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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54. Install your Jeep JK Wrangler’s factory rear sway bar links onto the front axle mounts and tighten them to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. You will need an 18mm socket and wrench to do this job. |
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55. Because of the lift, your steering wheel will be off just a bit. To re-center your steering wheel, use a 15mm wrench to loosen the 2 nuts on the turnbuckle as shown in the pic to the left. Then, rotate the turnbuckle clockwise or counter clockwise as needed while a friend watches the steering wheel (or you periodically check on it yourself) go back to center. Once re-centered, secure the nuts and take it for a drive to check your steering wheel. This may take a few tries to get it on 100% but that’s all there is to it. |
Congratulations, you now have a Jeep JK Wrangler that’s a whole 2.5″ taller and ready to stand on a set of new 33″ tires and maybe even 35″ tires. Because of the the new steering system design that Jeep is using on the JK Wranglers, your front end alignment should be just fine and no adjustments to your toe-in will be necessary.
By the time I had completed this write-up, I had already put on about 1,000 miles on my JK with the TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost and stock 32″ BFG Mud Terrains. During that time, I had driven around town, on the highway, on the trail and have had no problems what so ever. In fact, I’d have to say that this is a great kit and one that I would recommend to anyone who is intersted in it.
Please let me know if you have any questions. |
Additional Photos
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| Before |
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| After |
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| After with Pro Comp 315/70R17 Xtreme M/T’s |
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| To see more photos of the Project-JK Jeep with the TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost installed, click on the links below:
TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost After Photos
Anza Borrego Coyote Canyon Trail Run
Death Valley Goler Wash Trail Run
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Hey Eddie; How is the axle alignment.. Do you think you need adjustable track bars..?? Hows the caster..?? Do you think you need add anything to make this kit better..
Hey Jay, I’d have to say, so far so good. Having driven my JK extensively after doing the lift and having taken it out on the trails, I’m actually surprised at how well my handling is and I haven’t had any issues with the ESP system to speak of. Caster is off a bit but not enough to cause any more wandering that what I had off the showroom floor. A new adjustable front track bar and relocation bracket for the rear would be nice to recenter the axle but so far, I haven’t felt the “need” for one. As far as alignment goes, because of the way the steering is designed on the JK, no toe-in adjustment was necessary and since I’m still using the stock track bar without any adjustments to it, my steering wheels stayed dead center too. Do I think I need to add anything to make this kit better? Sure, at the very least, a longer set of sway bar links (or disconnects up front if you don’t have a Rubicon) would be nice but aren’t necessary. Also, new longer shocks would be the better way to go but in all honesty, the extension brackets seem to work out great too. All in all, I have to say that I really like this budget boost and would have to recommend it to anyone interested in it. You won’t be disappointed
Eddie
Hi Eddie,
I was wondering if you had to add any front spacers to compensate for the added weight of the powerplant and/or front bumper?
Hi jeeptx,
I don’t, but it doesn’t look too bad without them. I can tell you that the added weight of the WARN bumper and PowerPlant winch that I’m running right now has caused my front end to droop about 3/4″ and spacers is on my to do list.
Eddie
3-20 Do you have the 35″ tires on yet?
If so what are your impressions on ride, rubbing etc
thx
Hey Rob, there was a backorder on the new wheels and so I’m still waiting to get them. Hopefully they will be here soon.
Eddie
How is that warn bumper working out for you? Any problems with the skid plate that can go along with it? I have the 07 2 door rubicon with no lift and i am stuck between that bumper and the AEV bumper that just came out. Any suggestions.
Hi Nick,
I like my Warn bumper a lot but it is heavy and depending on what winch you use with it, you should expect to loose some height with it. But then, that’s a problem with any steel front bumper, AEV included. The AEV bumper is a great looking bumper but what I do like about the Warn over it is the fact that it isn’t a 100% full width bumper and it allows for better approach angles.
Eddie
Any word on skid plates for the muffler thats in the back now? ive seen them on some pictures.
Sorry, but none are available at this time. If anyone will have it out soon it will be www.RockHard4×4Parts.com
Eddie
Nick, I’m looking into getting a 2″ to 2.5″ Budget Boost for my first mod (JK Unlimited is less than a week old), and I’m hearing conflicting stories about whether I need new shocks or not. Yes, I can see where new shocks with the BB would be a good idea, how badly does it run without them? You said you took it trailriding, no problems? Was the swaybar disco’d when you took it out? What problems have you encountered without replacing the stock shocks?
Ooops…sorry, that should have gone to wayoflife.
Hey 4EverLSU, using the shock extensions that you can get with the TeraFlex 2.5″ BB, you won’t have any problems on or off the pavement. At least, I didn’t and yes, I have wheeled my JK disconnected with this setup through some pretty tough terrain.
Eddie
what tires are you running offroad? with the 2.5″ can u fit 35’s? I havent put my 2 door rubicon to the test yet and was wondering if the 32″ BFG mud terrains work well offroad or should i get a diff set up
I have lifted my Jeep (4dr Sahara) with this lift too. I put 35×12.5×17 Dunlop Mud Rovers on 17×9 ProComp Rims. I have had them on about a month and haven’t rubbed anywhere. It looked okay with the stock wheels and tires on it after the lift, but the new tires really set it off.
Hi Eddie,
I have been looking at doing the same to my JK (2.5 lift w/35’s). Can you tell me the height after the install. I want to know if it will fit in my parking Garage.
Thanks
Chris
Hi Nick,
I apologize for not responding to you sooner, I had been in Moab all week and just got back in town. Anyway, to answer your question, I was running the stock 32’s for quite some time and think it or 33’s make a great fit. I am now on 35’s and can tell you that it does rub the front fenders a bit at a full stuff. But then, I think if I had different back spacing, they may not.
Hi Chris,
Sorry, I haven’t had a chance to take an exact measurement but can tell you that my garage door opening stands 6′-11″ tall and I can make it in with ample room to spare… maybe a whole 5″-6″ to go.
Eddie
Eddie,
Good stuff on the lift information and tire sizes. I’m looking to purchase a new JK Rubicon 4 Door, put a mild lift on it and take my family 4 wheeln’ with me on my local club runs. I currently have a custom built CJ with one original 1982 part in it.. maybe you can guess ! I love my CJ which was built from many CJ, YJ and FSJ parts, Dana 44’s, lockers, TeraLow, GM fuel injected AMC 360, etc. and it has served me many years of great service off road. My requirements have changed and I now have a family. I have three questions for you:
1. Do you feel comfortable putting a family in this vehicle on/off road with this lift in it? 32, 33, 35 tire size?
2. Have you experienced any of the “Free Flow” top issues with the hard top leaking, electrical problems of the motor shutting down while on the road moving and of course the Radio burning out?
3. When is this vehicle getting a V8, 4.7 or 5.7 Hemi? I guess these guys forgot about the 2.8L Carb V6 in the original XJ, underpowered, slow and got lousy mileage…Also, what respectable man wants a Mini-van engine in his Jeep? I can’t understand why Jeep selected a 3.8L engine for a 4300lb vehicle..my CJ weighs 4400lbs dry without gear and I have a V8 that moves it along well but by no means is it a speed demon especially with 4.56 gears and 33 swampers.
thanks
bsr
Chris,
I have my top off right now, so without the top my Jeep sits 6′2″ to the top of the soft top door brackets. So I would add a few inches for the top.
BSR,
I have a preganant wife (5′3″) and a 18 month old daughter. With my 2.5″ lift and the 35s I am really glad I got the side steps on my Sahara Unlimited. I still had to add grab handles so my wife can get in easily, and putting my daughter in her car seat is more difficult, but I have no complaints. We go wheeling about twice a month at my local off-road park, and I can tell you, that taking my family along is part of the reason I bought the Unlimited. Trying to take all the gear and my family in my CJ5 is NO FUN AT ALL!
I haven’t had any engine problems, but my radio has cut out probably three times in the 4 months I’ve had it.
ALl,
I have 17″x9″ rims (ProComp 1089)with 5″ backspacing. I don’t do much rock climbing, but I can see where they would rub at full stuff. They stick out of my fenders about three inches on the road.
I put my spare wheel and tire (35×12.5×17 on 17×9 w/5″BS), on the factory spare mount without any problems. You can still see the third brake light and it doesn’t hit the bumper either. If it had less backspacing I think it would hit the bumper before the gate closes all the way. I don’t have a problem with it getting in the way of the hardtop back window opening either.
My Gas Mileage hasn’t dropped off as much as thought it would. I am still getting 16-18 MPG according to the onboard. I have the 3.21 gears in still (I am stationed in Germany and need the highway gears for the Autobahn) And the AEM Brute Force intake may be helping out a little too.
I installed my Teraflex Budget Boost about a month ago and had my first problem yesterday, I was accelerating hard and in a left hand turn and my steering wheel locked to the left. After I stopped I saw my swaybar links had inverted, and my swaybar was blocking my steering linkage. I highly suggest extended swaybar links if you go with the budget boost. It could have been a big problem if I was in traffic.
I took delivery of my Jeep in December of 06 and had the hardtop on all winter. I had no leaking problems at all. I put the soft top on a few weeks ago and had a leak in the center of the windshield to top seal. I layed the top back and reinstalled it, and haven’t had a leak yet.
With the 2.5 BB would you say it handles the same in turns or is worse?
Thanks
Tim Jones
Hi Brian,
1. Absolutely and I do all the time. First with the factory 32’s and then with a set of 35’s.
2. Nope, none what so ever.
3. With the proper gearing, the little 3.8L isn’t so bad. I’m running 5.13’s now and have no problems with power. Granted, I’d love to have had the 2.8L diesel if they offered it.
Eddie
Hey Tim,
The TeraFlex 2.5″ BB that I installed reused the factory shocks and so to be completely honest, my JK handled pretty much the same.
Eddie
Hey Eddie your the man…. I was thinking of getting this set up for my JK 2 door and was wondering what a 295/75/16 would be like on some MT classics 16×8. This a good tire size for a good mean stance? I live in West Virginia and I cannot have my tires sticking past my flares or the fuzz will pull me over and ticket me for sure! Any ideas on a good stance with about a 33′ tire, THANKS keep up the good work!!
BTW with reguards to the last question, how much will MPG suffer?
Hi BillyHoe, you just want to make sure that the 33″ tall tires are 11″ wide or less or that the back spacing on your wheels are about 5″. This will keep your tires under your flares and you out of trouble.
As far as MPG goes, it won’t suffer much at all with 33’s and just a bit with 35’s.
Eddie
hey I am thinking about doing the 2.5 BB by Teraflex. Do you think it would be wise to get the shocks as well, or to just extend the stock shocks? Also will there be anything else that I will need besides what comes with the kit? And lastly I looked through your instalation steps and it doesn’t look to bad. I am no mechanic though, should I have a professional do it? Any idea what they charge? Thankyou.
Hi Kyle,
If you think you might go taller in the future, I would just stick with the shock extensions for now especially if you like how your Jeep rides now. If you plan on keeping this lift for a long time to come or want to firm up your ride, new shock would be nice to get but only if they are a good set of monotube nitro shocks.
As far as installation goes, please, it really is as easy as it looks and I would highly recommend you doing the install yourself or have a friend give you a hand. Heck, if you’re in the SoCal area, let me know and I would be more than happy to help you out.
Sincerely,
Eddie
Hi Eddie,
What is the maximum lift kit that can be installed on the JK without shock adaptors?
2.5″ seems to me a bit high, so I consider the Daystar 1 3/4″.
This kit comes without shock adapters, and I wonder if the Factory shocks are long enough.
Thanks
Meir
Hi Meir,
Actually, as you can see in this write-up, I ran the 2.5″ shock adapters with this lift, wheeled it hard and didn’t have any problems.
Eddie
Hi how’s it going? Your site was a GREAT deal of help to me., thanks! We got away without disconnecting the track bar.. just lowered the entire axel very carefuly and the the front coil springs came out, BUT we had to use coil compressors. and in the rear we lowerd we did not disconnect the axel either but you have to be careful with your ESP cable. We pulled the fasteners off of the frame and that allowed us to lower the axels all the way down. Both coils came out easy and better yet they both went back on easy.. no coil compressors needed.
But thanks for all the info on your page.
Hey Eddie,
What is the largest tire size for the JK without any lift?
Hi Eddie,
) anyways, I have the following honest feedback on the kit. First off, let me say that I am pretty mechanical, have built up a few 4×4 rigs, done some motorcycle restoration etc, but am by no means a pro mechanic so I think these comments should apply to most:
I just finished the 2.5″ budget lift this weekend, it went smoothly (I amlost tried to track you down to assist if necessary since I think you and I live near each other in OC
1. This is a pretty straightforward kit and the instructions on this site are great. Terraflex did try to substitute a new front bumpstop setup on the kit I received that required a drill and tap and although I could’ve done that easily enough, I wanted the true bolt on and a quick call to them had the correct parts shipped out.
2. Even with the front axle lowered to the point where the brake lines and sensor wires had very little slack, I still needed to use a coil compressor on the front, maybe I could’ve gone a little farther and popped them out, but I didn’t want to risk it. The rears dropped easily enough after loosening one of the sensor wire clips on each side - easy.
3. The washers shipped by Terraflex for the rear shock extensions didn’t fit over the extension bolts, I looked at the way the upper shock mounts and the original bolts went together and decided to go ahead without the washers (the heads on the hex bolts should have no problem holding the slots), but I will be checking them soon and maybe popping some in.
4. The rear brake line extender bothers me a little bit, it looks like the inward bend is necessary to protect the line from the sway bar but the lines now seem to rest on the black dust boot on the rear shock. Again, this doesn’t seem to be a big problem as the boot is not a moving part and the shock travel does not seem like it will cause a flex point into the line, but I found any contact unnerving - has anyone had this problem or dealt with it differently? I didn’t want to modify the bracket until I’ve had a chance to check the other moving parts around the lines.
5. One last thing to watch out for is popping the breather on the rear axle when you lower it - easy enough to pop back on but if you don’t look out for it you’ll miss it.
All-in-all, this is a straight forward kit, a reasonable day project and the ride is maintained since for all intensive purposes you are keeping the factory coils. It seems to steer about the same and I haven’t notices any excessive bump-steer or anything from the track bar re-centering. I haven’t had it in the dirt yet but will try to get it onto a trail this weekend.
PS-Eddie, I also ordered the LoD winch bumper through you - hope it ships soon
Hi Brian, I have seen guys run 33″ tires without any lift but depending on the make of the tires (not all 33″ tires measure the same), you may need to do a little bit of trimming of your air dam as the tire may rub there at a full turn.
Hi Andrew, I’m glad to hear the write-up was helpful to you and yes, I do live in Laguna Niguel so if you ever need any help, by all means, please email me and I would be more than happy to offer up my services.
Eddie
I am getting ready to install 35/12.5/18 on my stock 18′ rims. do you think i will need spacers?
Hi jonathan, yes, in order to clear the 12.50″ wide tires, you will want a set of 1.5″ wheel spacers.
Eddie
Hey WOF, I took your write up and transfered it to a nice PDF with 1 page per step. SOmethin easy to take out to the driveway. Shoot me your e-mail and i will send it to you. You can post it here for others if you like!
I have a 2 door JK Rubicon and I just finished installing the 2.5 BB. The rear axle is not centered due to the lift (repositioning of the rear track bar). Would the rear track bar bracket that Tera-flex sells, required for the their lift that is 4″ or more, would fix the centering issue with this lift?
Hi Rocky,
Yes, a track bar relocation bracket will help to correct your axle shift but in all honesty, it really isn’t needed.
Eddie
Eddie,
Great instructions! I do have a couple of questions though.
1.
The instructions that come with the lift kit state that the spacer should be added to one side then do it to the other side. Your instructions weren’t specific in this area. Would you recommend removing the shocks and springs on both sides and installing the spacers on both sides at the same time? Or would you recommend installing the spacer and reinstalling the spring and shock before moving to the other side?
2.
I haven’t installed equipment on the front yet requiring the 3/4″ leveling spacer; would it be harmful to go ahead and install this spacer while I’m doing this install to save time and effort? After all, it seems like my stock JK Unlimited Sahara is already slightly lower in the front. If I decided to do that (or install it at a later time…) how would it be done? Where is this spacer installed? On top of the 2.5″ spacer?
Thanks,
Michael
Hi Michael,
1. You need to disconnect your swaybar from the axle, remove the shocks, sway bar links and coils on both sides and then install the new spacers and coils at the same time. If you have an automatic, you may find it necessary to disconnect your front drive shaft from the pinion as well.
2. You can install the spacers now and at worst, you will be nose high. I would install them on top of the 2.5″ spacers and below the factory rubber isolator. That way they will be hidden from view under the upper spring perch.
Eddie
Great looking jeep!
One question, does the driveline angles need to change with the 2.5 lift? Do you get any vibration from the drivelines?
Thanks Adam. To answer your question, no, you will not have any driveline vibes due to the new CV style drive shaft Jeep is now using and so your drive line angles will not need to be changed.
Eddie
WOL,
On step 19 above, you mentioned the torque for the front shock mount is 20 ft. lbs. I just wanted to make sure about this since another source mentioned 56 ft. lbs.
thanks for your help
Hi Steve, you are correct, I made a typo and it should have read 56 ft. lbs. just like step 47 states. I will correct this now, thanks for bringing this to my attention.
Eddie
thanks WOL… i just hope i can make it home from work tonight with it
…. 20 ft. lbs should hold up for a while right?
Oh yeah, it shouldn’t go anywhere and you’ll be fine
Eddie
good to know
one more question WOL,
Yesterday, i was checking everything to make sure they’re all tight. When i got to the rear shocks, when i tried to “Yank” them a little bit, there was a little “Play” on the body of the shocks (though not much, but you can feel it move around a bit). I checked all bolts, and they’re very tight (according to the torque spec).
Is this normal? (most of the play is near the top shock mount)
Steve, do you have new aftermarket shocks or are you using the extension brackets? Either way, are you talking about shifting of the shock in its bushing or within the shock can itself?
I have a new shocks (but i used stock bar pin), and yes, i was referring to an ever so slightly shifting of shock in its bushing. I have to really yank the shocks to do this.
I don’t feel anythin weird during my drive though, both in the city and highway. Maybe i’m just paranoid
LOL!! What you are feeling is normal. Unless you are using a set of bar pin eliminators, there will be some movement in the bushings.
Eddie
Thanks….I’m used to doing suspension work on hondas/acuras…and there is usually no movement whatsoever
…
Thanks again eddie
You mention the use of (although not required) a longer set of sway bar links (or disconnects up front if you don’t have a Rubicon), front adjustable track bar and rear track bar relocation bracket. I saw the front adjustable track bar and rear track bar relocation bracket on the teraflex site but no longer set of sway bar links. Any idea where to pick those up? Estimate cost of the add-ons since I can not find them priced? (No Rubi here, just a plain X Unlimited) Thanks a bunch!
Hey HatchetMan,
Hmmm, I would think they sell them even though they are not on their website and I would imagine they wouldn’t be too expensive. I would try giving them a call or a vendor that carries TeraFlex products and ask them.
Eddie
Wow cool…always looking for cheap and easy! Question…if a guy was to do this 2.5″ lift, and stuff some 35″ tires on the stock rims under there…what width tire would I want to stick with in order to keep from rubbing? I’m talking on a Unlimited Rubicon now…THANKS!
-Sam
With the 2.5″ boost, do you know if it affects the factory warrenty? I’ve heard when you lift a vihicle it voids the warrenty. Do you know if this is true? And is there a difference in the factory suspinsons of the X, sahara, and rubicon?
Hi Sam,
If you’re planning on running 35″ tires on your factory wheels, you really should consider getting a set of 1.5″ wheel spacers as most of the 35″ tires I know of measure 12.50 in width or wider which is too much.
Dustin,
Lifting your Jeep alone will not void your warranty. Now, if you break a factory part that can be directly traced to the lift itself then that part will not be warrantied (i.e. if you damage a stock shock it will not be replaced).
Eddie
Howdy!
Might want to get a cold one before reading this novel/email… BTW, do you know what impact 35″ tires have on the odo/speedo and ESP? Is it a reprogram or a part change on the 07?
Had the TFlx 2.5 BB Lift with a BDS TrackBar relocation bracket installed (although, the kit did not, as listed on the box, come with the rear stock shock relocation hardware and so shocks had to be mounted in orig location (thus: NO hard WHEEL’n) until the ext hardware comes in. I had RubiconExpress longer braided steel brake lines installed too. Even with stock Rubi tires and wheels, lifting makes it look better to my eye. Who would’ve thunk that 2.5 inches would look so much taller.
After the lift install,I drove home the long way and everything seemed to be in good order… that is, the same as stock. Curiously, there was more noticeable tread/road noise off of the stock tires… tires exposed/not corralled as much??? … or worse, some slight misalignment? My imagination?
Still, I was really impressed that everything seemed so similar to stock as you have mentioned (my assessment too)…
HOWEVER, the next morning I had AEV Argent Pintlers and 35″ Toyos installed and HEY, on the way home I notice some right-drift… no pulling (well maybe a little right pull under braking), not any more bump-steer than stock, but a little right-drift that, while not overwhelming, is noticeable… truly there… just enough to say DANG, it’s not perfect.!
In what little road time I’ve put on it, I seem to, as mentioned in a jeepfan blog, want to hold the steering wheel ever-so-slightly to the left to counter the right-drift. It’s not crabbing and it’s pretty mild, but I want to be sure it isn’t something I have to live with or pay for in tire wear or worse down the road or that will spoil it for wifey when she drives it.
Maybe, the ride home over intentional ruts and bumps in the road to “shake things loose” and/or the jacking up etc. for tire installation, tweaked the lift tech’s alignment. I’ll be having the lift tech look into this when I go back within the next week or so for my follow-up/check and we’ll see what we’ll see.
To repeat, this wasn’t obvious to me until after the tire install, then it was immediately and still noticeable/obvious, although mild.
Also, in addition to the drift-right condition, I now belong to the select group of lifted/big tire 4×4 ‘07 Unlimiteds that have the over-active ESP thing going around on/off ramp curves. I was looking for it before the lift and after the lift and didn’t get it with the stock 32s, but it does happen now (ESP kicks in - braking? I think - and the “skidding vehicle” icon on the dash flashes until we straighten out)… not too bad if you’re prepared for it [which may NOT include wives taking it out without training
]
Like you have mentioned to check, Eddie; I’m hoping it is as simple as the steering wheel, thus the steering inputs to ESP, being a little off-center and that by centering it up (again?… as you say, it might take a couple stabs at it.) might work… possibly a reflash of the ESP if the dealer is willing after the mods.
So maybe the tires changed or added error to the wheel centering, or the action against the vehicle [jacking etc.] tweaked it or the alignment.
PS
There is/are a sensor(s) in the steering column (something called a CLOCKSPRING) that report (I’m guessing here: the steering wheel position/thus driver’s steering input?) to the ESP etc. So maybe if/when the steering wheel is off-center, mechanically the vehicle wants to go off center and maybe electronically it sends funky inputs to ESP on long big radius curves????
The reason I know about the “clockspring” is that my rig had a lot-boy break a key off in the ignition and they tore the steering column down to fix it… afterward my “ESP” (not skidding icon) dash indicator warning came on and stayed on (and I think ESP was disabled.. but not sure) every time I started and drove it for a couple weeks before they replaced that “clockspring”.
Thoughts??? advise?
Regards,
oldbob
I just finished installing the teraflex 2.5″ budget boost on my 2 door rubi and wow what a nice kit, it really gives the Jeep a nice look even with the stock Rubi tires. Also I think they have changed the kit since when alot of you guys installed it. In addition to the parts mentioned in the directions on this site (which were very helpfull btw) I also recieved a pair of longer rear sway bar links. Once installed the stock rear sway bar links go up front to replace the short stock front links. Quite a genious idea although looks like its only with the new kits? so for anyone with short links I would recomend getting the longer rear sway bar links and put your stock links up front.
Chris
Hi Chris, yes, this is a new feature for this kit and for those of you who have Rubicon’s, I would highly recommend that you pick up these links. You can buy them from Northridge4×4 or directly from TeraFlex and they only cost $15.
The kit has changed slightly since the writeup. Besides the addition of the sway bay links for the rear, the rear bump stop extensions have changed also.
The frame-mounted rear bump stop extensions are angled on one end–this needs to face the front of the vehicle. If they’re installed facing the rear, the bump stop will make contact with a bolt well before the top bump stop touches the bottom.
I hope this helps someone avoid the big gash in their bump stop extension like I now have. The irony is I took to a 4WD shop to have it done so it would be done right. They didn’t re-install the factory coil spacers either, which clearly listed, even in the hard-to-read/see TeraFlex instructions.
Thanks for the instructions Eddie. I just finished mine. So far no ESP problems.
Hi, I’ve already installed “Teraflex 2.5″ BB with Shocks” lift kit, and it’s kind of too late to ask…
BUT, how are those Teraflex shocks that come with BB lift kit compare to stock Rubi shocks (red ones)? I believe the TF shocks are 9550 (VSS gas shocks).
I was wondering I should have kept the Rubi shocks and got the adopters instead…
The ride is basically the same. But, I was wondering how durable/strong those Teraflex shocks are… Are their shocks known to be good quality?
Hi JKing, going with new longer shocks is always the way to go and if they are the TeraFlex 9550’s, you did well.
Eddie
Hi everyone, just has this installed Saturday, have the 35s ProComp Xtreme A/Ts on ProComp Wheels 17×8. One Question, when I turn all the way to the right or left the wheels rub the control arms, any suggestions???
Hey man thanks for this write up!!! I just finished mine today and man, it looks sweet. =) There is no way I could have done it with the Teraflex instructions alone- they were a JOKE! WTF! Mine came with the new rear sway bar links- very nice. The Rubi looks a million time better now, gotta get me some bigger tires now. Much appreciated, thanks for the time and effort!
Hey Bill, your tire is rubbing because your axle shifted over when you installed your lift. The only way to help this out is to install an adjustable front track bar. Or, you could always install a couple washers on the steer stops.
Hey Dubya, I’m glad to hear my write-up was able to help you out
Eddie
Eddie, I know you get this constantly, but thanks for the write-up! I’ve put 32″ BFG All Terrains on my 4-door JK. They look so much better than the stock tires. I know you mentioned the warranty above on June 12th, but I was wondering if you know any more detail about trouble with warranty work on a lifted vehicle. I only want to lift 2″ or 2.5″ to give a little more clearance with the new tires, although I realize it isn’t necessary. My service advisor told me that lifting Jeep would essentially void coverage on most of the powertrain components. He said that if something happens to the tranny, for example, the first thing any service department asks is, “Did you modify the vehicle with a lift?” And he said that the repairs would not be covered under the warranty.
Can you shed a little more light on this for me?
Thanks very much,
Dave
Hi Dave, in all honesty, I would find myself a different dealership to work on my Jeep. I broke the rear locker in my highly modified JK sitting on a 3″ lift and 35″ tires and had it replaced under warranty as the service advisor was able to determine that my lift, tires and or new gears were not the reason for it breaking. If your dealer will void any drive train work without even giving your Jeep a good look to see what the real cause your problem was, they’re a dealership to avoid. But, that’s just my 2¢ and the experiences I have had.
Eddie
I just installed my Teraflex 2.5 BB on my 2 door X. I love it. Thanks for the great write up.
Ty
Hey Ty, congradulations on your new lift. I’m glad to know my write-up was helpful to you
Eddie
when you go up in size of tires frm say 30 to 33 do you need to buy a new sensoir or do they just do a flash to keep your speedo and odometer aqurate ?And if I add a new bumper front and rear to keep the 2.5 hight will I need to add spacers or can I just get a heaver shock that will give me the same as factory ride and matian the lift ?
Hey Eddie,
Does the Teraflex 2.5″ BB w/shocks come with twin tube shocks?
Would you recommend the twin tube shocks or the mono shocks?
And lastly, if you could get the Teraflex 2.5″ BB w/ twin tube shocks or the Rubicon Express 2″ BB w/mono shocks for the same price, which would you recommend?
Thanks, Steve
Hey SeaBee, when you install bigger tires, your speedometer will be off unless you have your computer calibrated to match the new size. The only problem is that your dealer can only calibrate your computer to match up to a 32″ tire. And, at the moment, there is no way to work around this. As far as adding bumpers go and a winch goes, they will cause your suspension to sag a bit but installing new shock will not change your ride height. To fix the slight sag, you will need to either stack spacers or get taller coils.
Hey Steve, honestly, I’m not sure what kind of shocks they come with as I just got mine with shock extensions. However, if you could choose, I would highly recommend getting monotube nitro shocks as they typically proved a much better ride on and off the trail. As far as which kit I would go with, a budget boost is pretty much a budget boost and if you’re looking for a bit more height, I would go with the TeraFlex kit. Heck, if you have a Rubicon, I would still get this kit with the shock extensions as the factory Rubi shocks are really nice.
Eddie
Hi Eddie,
Thanks for all the work you are doing with the site, and thanks for replying to my questions regarding the warranty and the statements made by my service writer. I have since installed this lift and took your advice to another member and installed the relocation bracket for the rear. The lift is awesome, and I honestly think my JK handles better than it did prior to installing the lift–less sway on and off the road. We took the JK to the Adirondacks last week for a week of wheeling and had a blast. I also added KC Slimlites with windshield mounts. It’s nothing like your rig, but I’m having a great time. I’ll put some pics on the forum, if that’s alright.
Anyway, thanks for the advice, all your efforts with the site, and for your great write-ups. You have helped out tremendously in my decision making and in the installation process.
Best regards,
Dave
Hi Dave, I’m really glad to know that I was able to help you out and that you are happy with your lift. Thanks for the feedback and if there’s anything I can do for you, please don’t hesitate to ask.
Eddie
wayoflife! Your the man for this write up! aha… i will be using it when i eventually install my 2.5 teraflex bb. The sway bar links need to be installed on the inside in the rear now correct? And then the old rear links move up front exactly how the old fronts were… correct? Im just trying to visualise this with out being under the jeep or looking at a picture.
Also i bought some 285/70/17 BFG Mud Terrains that are going on my stock sahara 17’s. I believe that makes them 11.5 wide? Think ill have any issues with rubbing at full turn or getting the spare on my mount without spacers on either? When i install it i want to knock it all out at once =)
I may even give in and get a relocation bracket and adj sways…
ps. i didnt even think about this… the front would be done and lifted before i even get to the rear following your steps. How involved will it be to go back up front to install the rear links up there?
Hi Jared, you only need to install the new rear links if you have a Rubicon and yes, if you still have factory wheels, you will need to install the links on the inside of the axle mount as the bolt head that attaches to the sway bar will make contact with your factory wheels.
Regarding your new tires, you should be okay with them but yes, you may see some minor rubbing on the air dam at a full turn. Also, you shouldn’t have any problems mounting your spare.
As far as installing your rear links up front goes, it is actually easier to install links in general with your Jeep on the ground so no, you won’t have any problems.
Eddie
Hi wayoflife,
Thanks for the great website, articles, images and write-ups!
Did you ever install the front spacers like you mentioned above, before you installed the larger lift? What are your comments/suggestions if you did?
Hey xleatherneck, I upgraded my lift to a Full Traction 3″ Ultimate Lift and got HD front coils with it. They leveled out my Jeep nicely even with a heavy steel front bumper and WARN PowerPlant winch.
Eddie
Eddie, I have the JK Unlimited Rubicon. I want to lift it, but since my last jeep was a lifted YJ, I love my new ride. Since you have had both the 2.5 and 3 inch lifts, which gives the best ride. We tow it and use it mostly on fire trails, desert and mountain trails and about 50% of the time on the street. The wifey made me get the new jeep because she would’nt ride in the old one any more, boy was I smart, but I do love the ride and I want to keep the best of both worlds. Thanks, Rob
Hi Rob, If you’re happy with the ride that your Rubicon offers now, I would recommend just getting the TeraFlex 2.5″ BD as with it, your ride will not change at all and it’s cheap.
Eddie
Thanks very much. Rob
Hey WOF, Wheres the best spot to buy the BB from Teraflex? Anyone have a good URL for online purchase? I have to get shipping to Canada as well.
Hey WOF, thanks a lot for the write up on this, It’s answered a LOT of questions I’ve had!
You can buy this kit from 4WD, Northridge4×4 or Quadratec. Just find and click on the banner to the right and you should get to where you want to be
Eddie
Hey Eddie,
I am planning to install my 2.5 BB on my new 08 Rubi this week, I live in San Clemente. A couple questions:
you mentioned above to somone that if they where in so cal you would consider helping, San clemente close to where you live by chance??
ANy more word on ESP problems? Know how to adjust the steering back anyways?
Will I be able to get along alright without wheel spacers with bfg 35×12.5’s on stock rims?
ALso any extra install steps on a rubi rather than your sahara?
One more, know of any affordable jeep groups in so cal I should consider joining and can you recomend any trails?
This has been a great source of info!! Thanks so much!
~iadventure
one more thing, did you install the swaybar extenders?
Hey IADVENTURE, I live in Laguna Niguel and would love to help you get your lift installed. Just send me an email at: eddie@project-jk.com and we’ll set up a time to do it.
Regarding your other questions, I never had any ESP problems with the TeraFlex 2.5″ BB and would think you will be good to go as well. As far as running a 12.50 wide tire on stock rims go, you will need to get a set of 1.5″ wheel spacers to prevent any rubbing issues. BTW, I too have a Rubicon and not a Sahara and the only other step there you will have is the installation of the new longer rear sway bar links and the installation of the factory rear links up front.
Now, as far as Jeep groups go, please join us on our runs. We go out 2-3 times a month with JK owners of all build sizes and skill levels and we’d love to have you come along. Check here for upcoming events:
http://www.jk-forum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=45
Please contact me by email and we’ll get you taken care of
Eddie
Hey Eddie,
I just installed my BB 2.5 lift yesterday. YOu had mentioned that you live in Laguna Niguel. Could I drop by to borrow your ACCU PRO to calibrate my 35in tires?
Thanks,
Troy
Eddie,
I installed a 2.5″ Terra Flex Suspension Lift with extended shocks on my 2007 4door Jeep. It is a X model not a rubicon. I kept my stock wheels and placed BFG AT/KO tiers that are 315/70/17 and they fit ok but when I turn all the way right or left they rub on the inside of the wheel against the front cross member bar can you tell me if you feel the 1″ Terra Flex spacers would help stop that problem
Eddie, I have a JK sitting on 32s right now and I want to lift it for both clearance and appearance purposes. I was thinking of the 2.5 teraflex as you’ve installed but I was wondering if the 32 inch tires would look weird and/or not be efficient with that size lift. Should I just go with a smaller lift adn keep my 32s (which work fine for what I do) or go with 2.5 inch and bigger tires. Thanks!
Hi Jon, no, it won’t look weird at all. To see some pics of what it will look like, click on this link:
http://www.project-jk.com/wp-gallery2.php?g2_itemId=20455
Eddie
Hey Eddie, first off I’d like to say “Thanks” as I used your walkthrough on my laptop in the garage to install this lift by myself yesterday. I added a ProComp front adj track bar and the BDS relocation bracket for the rear. It took me a bit longer than the 4-5 hours generally given but it was fun.
I wanted to comment on a couple of findings:
First off (on the X model anyway) you do not have to disconnect the drive shaft. There is a bracket held by 2 bolts underneath that impedes the shaft from lowering past a certain point. It is easy to disconnect and allows for all of the clearance necessary.
The other thing is that if the BDS rear trackbar bracket is used then the links cannot be “moved” to the insides because the passenger side link will hit it.
Hope there is a way to extend this information to other users as the driveshaft alternative could save a lot of unnecessary work (I tried to disconnect it and had a heckuva time before looking for an alternative!). Thanks again. I’d never have tried this mod on my own without your write-up!
Hey WOL, I’ve got a 4 door Rubi, and just had the BB installed. The garage that installed it for me said that they had to remove the rear sway bar, in order to prevent the bar from rubbing with my stock BFG 32’s. What shoudl I be going back and telling these guys. B/C without the swaybar in the rear my JK moves around on the road a lot. It’s not a huge difference but enough for me to express concern.
Thanks WOL,
killer write up as well.
Hi JKFreek, you absolutely NEED the rear sway bar and links installed on your JK in order to keep it driving safely. If you cannot get the new longer links to install on the inside of the mounts, I would recommend that you just install your factory front and rear links back on your Jeep. On pavement, you will be just fine and off road, you should be fine for the most part as well. Trust me, I ran my JK like this for quite some time without any problems. However, if you can afford it, I would highly recommend that you either get new wheels with less back spacing or 1.5″ wheel spacers. This will give you the room you need to reinstall your new links.
Eddie
Sounds good. I’m new to the whole backspacing thing and what it means exactly. However in getting new wheels, would a wider wheel give it enough space? As for new longer links, what links would they be that would solve my problem with the stock wheels. I’d love to buy them I just need to know what ones to get. Its just the rear sway bar that is off, the front is still on.
I’d love to be able to run the stock wheels, if theres an alternate sway bar or links or whatnot (NEWWWWBIEEE!!!) for the rear.
Thanks again
Hey WOL, to add to my previous post, if I install the linkson the opposite side of the sway bar and axle mount should this solve my problem? And do you think I could get away with running a wider tire. Looking at going to 285-70-R17 on the stock wheels.
Hey JKFreek, you can learn all about back spacing here:
http://www.jk-forum.com/showpost.php?p=211274&postcount=3
AS far as a wider wheel goes, the diameter of it shouldn’t change anything other than where your links will rub and physical width of it may make things worse. Factory back spacing is 6.25″ and you will want something closer to 4″ in order to clear things with room to spare. 1.5″ wheel spacers will help you achieve this.
Eddie
Hey, this is a great write up. I just have one question, I am going to order 37 14.00 tires, and I was going to keep my stock jk 17 inch wheels. I already have a 6 inch lift and 1.5 inch spacers. Am I going to have any problem running that wide of a tire on my stock wheels?
Oh and also, will my new 37 14.00 inch tires stick out as much, with the 1.5 spacers, as they would with say 10 inch wide rims?
14″ is a lot of width and in all honesty, I have a hard time believing that you will be able to run them with just 1.5″ wheel spacers and stock wheels. As far as the 10″ wheels go, they will not help things.
Eddie
Ok, well what about 12.50 wide tires? Do you know of anyone who has used them on there stock wheel? Do you think I will have any problems?
Yes. 12.50 on stock wheels can cause your rear sway bar links to make contact with the side walls and a lot of rubbing up front when turning. If you want to keep your factory wheels, you will need wheel spacers.
Eddie
Ok, well will I be ok if I get 1.5 inch spacers?
Yes, you should.
Eddie
Ok Thanks for all of your help. I just decided to go with 20×8.5 rims, and I am still going to use 1.5 spacers. How will I be on clearance with a 6 inch lift, and 35×13.50×20 tires?
I’m sorry I meant 36×13.50×20 tires.
With 6″ of lift, you will have plenty of clearance.
Eddie
hello, I plan on ordering those same rims, but 4wd.com told me that the stock 255/70/18 tires (sahara 08) will not fit on the pro comp 18 x 9 wheels… is this correct? I was then looking at the procomp all terrain as 80% of my driving will be daily and 20% offroad…(not as extreme as u guys) they recommended with those same rims 18 x 9 with 285/60/18…what is the biggest tire i can go with with stock setup without rubbing etc.. will i notice a big handling issue? also i do not know if i can have a lift as i have a meyers snow plow for it in the winter time? thanks and sorry i am a newbie to the jeep world
A 9″ wide wheel is a bit wide for factory tires and the ones they’ve recommended might be a better fit. You should not experience any handling issues with them.
Eddie
Eddie,
Love the website, made me change my mind from buying an old tj for fun to going all out and getting a new unlimited Rubicon. Just had the TF budget boost and 35″ toyo open country on 17″ procomp wheels installed by a very reputable dealer that is known for doing a lot of modifications and not screwing people on warranty issues. Bottom line, the jeep pulls to the right, and seems to be more noticeable at lower speeds (weird), not nearly as bad on highway. Took it back and they recentered the steering wheel, which seems to help a little, but definately still pulls. Any suggestions? would rear location bracket actually help. I’m concerned of wearing these expensive tires! Also, is it normal to experience a mild vi