Instructions
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This is a pic of all the parts you should get with a TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost with shock extensions. Take some time to make sure you have all the parts shown as well as all the tools listed on the left prior to starting this project. |
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1. Park your Jeep JK Wrangler on a level surface. If you have an automatic transmission, use an 18mm socket to remove the 3 bolts (one on each frame rail and one on the cross member) securing its skid plate to the frame of your Jeep JK Wrangler. Remove the skid plate and set it aside for now. |
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2. Chock your rear tires, loosen (but do not remove) the lug nuts on your front wheels, raise the front end of it one side at a time from the axle using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts. |
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3. Remove the wheels off your Jeep JK Wrangler using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under the front axle to help support it. |
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4.Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolts and nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. |
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5. Slip a 19mm wrench in between the sway bar link and sway bar itself and hold the ball joint stud in place while removing the nut securing it in place with 18mm wrench. Completely remove the sway bar links from your Jeep JK Wrangler’s sway bar and discard them. |
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6. Using a 5/8″ wrench, hold your Jeep JK Wrangler’s shock can in place just below the upper shock mount to keep it from spinning. Then, remove the stud mount nut above using a 16mm wrench. |
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7. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front shocks to the lower axle mount. |
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8. Remove the bolt securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front track bar to the front axle mount using a 21mm socket. This can be a tough bolt to remove and an impact wrench or breaker bar will help to make this job easier. Once removed, set aside the flagged nut and leave the track bar attached to the frame. |
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9. Being mindful of your brake lines, carefully lower your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front axle until the factory front coils can be slipped out of the upper perch and be removed completely with ease. |
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| 10. Firmly grab the yellow factory bump stop on your Jeep JK Wrangler and pry it out of its retaining cup. |
11. Slide the factory rubber coil isolator down and off the upper spring perch of your Jeep JK Wrangler. |
12. Install your new TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost front coil spacers up onto the upper spring perch followed by your Jeep JK Wrangler’s factory rubber coil isolator as shown in this photo. |
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| 13. Take your your new TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost front bump stop extensions and apply some white lithium grease to the connecting end of it. |
14. Place one of your new TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost rear bump stop extensions on top of the lower spring perch of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front axle and position the front bump stop on top of it just under the retaining cup. |
15. Using your floor jack, slowly raise your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front axle up until the TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost front bump stop plugs into the retaining cup. |
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16. Lower your Jeep JK Wrangler’s axle back down, remove rear bump stop extension sitting on top of the lower spring perch and then install the factory yellow rubber bump stop into the new TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost front bump stop extensions. |
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17. Install your factory front coils back onto your Jeep JK Wrangler. You may need to press down on your front axle a bit more in order to get it in but spring compressors shouldn’t be needed. |
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| 18. If you purchased your TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost with shock extensions, layout and assemble the pieces to it as shown in this photo. Please note, you will need to reuse the factory Jeep JK Wrangler rubber bushings and upper washer. |
19. Using a 13/16″ and 5/8″ wrench, install the TeraFlex shock extension main shaft onto the upper stud mount of your factory Jeep JK Wrangler front shocks. |
20. Slip on the new large washer that comes with your TeraFlex front shock extensions onto the main shaft. Follow this with the stepped factory rubber bushing. |
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21. Slip your front shock with new TeraFlex extensions up into your Jeep JK Wrangler upper shock mount, slip on the upper factory rubber bushing on to the mounting stud, place the large factory upper washer on top of it and then secure everything in place using the factory nut. A 16mm and 5/8″ wrench will be needed for this job. |
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22. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, secure your front shocks to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s axle mount using the factory hardware and tighten the nut and bolt to 56 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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23. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front wheels, lower it back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque, remove the wheel chocks from the rear and place them up front. |
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24. With the engine off, put your key in the ignition, make sure that the steering wheel is unlocked and then have a friend turn it in one direction or the other until you can line up your front track bar bushing hole with the front axle mount hole on your Jeep JK Wrangler. Secure the track bar in place using the factory hardware and tighten it to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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25. If you have an automatic and removed your skid plate earlier, use an 18mm socket to re-install and secure it to the frame of your Jeep JK Wrangler using the 3 factory bolts. |
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26. Lift the rear end of your Jeep JK Wrangler from the differential using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts. Remove the wheels off using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under front the axle to help support it. |
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27. Using a 16mm socket and a 6″-12″ ratchet drive extension, remove your Jeep JK Wrangler’s 2 upper rear shock mount bolts. |
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28. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear shocks to the lower axle mounts. Remove and set aside your shocks for now. |
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29. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolts and nuts securing your rear sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. Then, slip a 19mm wrench in between the sway bar link and sway bar itself and hold the ball joint stud in place while removing the nut securing it in place with 18mm wrench. Completely remove your links and set them aside for now as they will be reused in place of your factory front links. |
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30. Remove the rear track bar bolt and nut from your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower axle mount using a 21mm socket. As was the case with the front track bar, this can be a tough bolt to remove and a breaker bar will help to make this job easier. |
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| 31. Using a 10mm socket, remove the 2 nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s emergency brake cables to the bottom of the tub. This is necessary in order for you to get your rear axle to droop enough to install your new coils. |
32. Using a 10mm socket, unbolt the rear brake line brackets which are fastened to the outside frame rails of your Jeep JK Wrangler. Leave them dangling at this time. |
33. Slowly lower your rear axle being mindful of the ESP wiring. Once your axle is dropped low enough, your factory coils should just about fall out and can be removed with ease. Set aside the upper rubber isolators as they will be reused. |
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| 34. Take your new TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost rear coil spacers and install the Jeep JK Wrangler rear coil rubber isolators onto the center post as shown in this photo. |
35. Apply a small amount of white lithium grease to the knob on the upper side of your new TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost rear coil spacers. |
36. Plug your new TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost rear coil spacers up onto the hole on your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear upper spring perch. |
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37. Re-install your factory coils underneath your new TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost rear coil spacers making sure that it is properly seated on the rubber isolators. |
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| 38. Install 2 of the bolts and washers provided with the kit into the holes on the TeraFlex rear bump stop extension as shown in this photo. |
39. Place the TeraFlex rear bump stop extension on top of the axle bump stop plate making sure that the bolts go through the existing holes. On newer kits, this bump stop will be shaped like a parallagram and have a top that is skewed over to one side from the bottom. Install these with the top surface pointing towards the front of your Jeep JK Wrangler. |
40. Using a 1/2″ and 13mm wrench, secure the TeraFlex rear bump stop extension to your axle bump stop plate using the lock nuts and washer provided with the kit. |
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41. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, install your new TeraFlex sway bar link onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower axle mounts with the factory hardware and tighten them to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. Then, install them to the sway bar using the hardware provided. Once installed, apply some grease to the zerk nipple using a grease gun. |
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42. Using a 10mm socket and the factory hardware, install the TeraFlex rear brake line extension brackets onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s frame rails with the bends pointing toward the center of your Jeep and the notches pointing backward. |
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43. Secure your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear brake lines to the new TeraFlex extension brackets using the bolts, washers and lock nuts provided with the kit. You will need a 7/16″ socket and wrench for this job. |
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44. If you purchased your TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost with shock extensions, layout and assemble the pieces for the rear shocks as shown in this photo. |
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| 45. Loosely install the TeraFlex rear shock extension onto the upper frame mounts of your Jeep JK Wrangler using just one of the long bolts provided with the kit. |
46. Slip one of the small bolts and washer throug the top of your Jeep’s frame rail and loosely secure the TeraFlex rear shock extension bracket to it from under neath using one of the lock nuts and washers provided with the kit. |
47. Loosely install your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear shocks onto the lower axle mounts using the factory hardware. This will help you hold everything in place while you secure the TeraFlex rear shock extension bracket and upper shock mount in palce. |
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48. Using a 17mm socket and 6″-12″ ratchet drive extension, secure your rear shocks and TeraFlex extension brackets to the upper frame mount of your Jeep JK Wrangler with the long bolts and washers provided with the kit. Tighten these bolts to 37 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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49. Using a 1/2″ socket, a 6″-12″ ratchet drive extension and a 1/2″ wrench, tighten the additional small bolt and nut securing your new TeraFlex rear shock extension to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s upper frame mount. |
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50. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, re-install your rear shocks onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower axle mounts using the factory hardware. Tighten these bolts to 56 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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51. Using a 10mm socket, re-secure your Jeep JK Wrangler’s emergency brake cables hanger to the bottom of the tub using the factory nuts. |
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52. Loop a long ratchet strap around your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear track bar frame and axle mount and then ratchet it until your track bar bushing hole and axle mount holes line up enough for you to secure it in place using the factory hardware. |
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53. Tighten the rear track bar bolt to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear wheels, lower it back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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54. Install your Jeep JK Wrangler’s factory rear sway bar links onto the front axle mounts and tighten them to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. You will need an 18mm socket and wrench to do this job. |
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55. Because of the lift, your steering wheel will be off just a bit. To re-center your steering wheel, use a 15mm wrench to loosen the 2 nuts on the turnbuckle as shown in the pic to the left. Then, rotate the turnbuckle clockwise or counter clockwise as needed while a friend watches the steering wheel (or you periodically check on it yourself) go back to center. Once re-centered, secure the nuts and take it for a drive to check your steering wheel. This may take a few tries to get it on 100% but that’s all there is to it. |
Congratulations, you now have a Jeep JK Wrangler that’s a whole 2.5″ taller and ready to stand on a set of new 33″ tires and maybe even 35″ tires. Because of the the new steering system design that Jeep is using on the JK Wranglers, your front end alignment should be just fine and no adjustments to your toe-in will be necessary.
By the time I had completed this write-up, I had already put on about 1,000 miles on my JK with the TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost and stock 32″ BFG Mud Terrains. During that time, I had driven around town, on the highway, on the trail and have had no problems what so ever. In fact, I’d have to say that this is a great kit and one that I would recommend to anyone who is intersted in it.
Please let me know if you have any questions. |
Additional Photos
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| Before |
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| After |
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| After with Pro Comp 315/70R17 Xtreme M/T’s |
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| To see more photos of the Project-JK Jeep with the TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost installed, click on the links below:
TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost After Photos
Anza Borrego Coyote Canyon Trail Run
Death Valley Goler Wash Trail Run
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Hey Eddie; How is the axle alignment.. Do you think you need adjustable track bars..?? Hows the caster..?? Do you think you need add anything to make this kit better..
Hey Jay, I’d have to say, so far so good. Having driven my JK extensively after doing the lift and having taken it out on the trails, I’m actually surprised at how well my handling is and I haven’t had any issues with the ESP system to speak of. Caster is off a bit but not enough to cause any more wandering that what I had off the showroom floor. A new adjustable front track bar and relocation bracket for the rear would be nice to recenter the axle but so far, I haven’t felt the “need” for one. As far as alignment goes, because of the way the steering is designed on the JK, no toe-in adjustment was necessary and since I’m still using the stock track bar without any adjustments to it, my steering wheels stayed dead center too. Do I think I need to add anything to make this kit better? Sure, at the very least, a longer set of sway bar links (or disconnects up front if you don’t have a Rubicon) would be nice but aren’t necessary. Also, new longer shocks would be the better way to go but in all honesty, the extension brackets seem to work out great too. All in all, I have to say that I really like this budget boost and would have to recommend it to anyone interested in it. You won’t be disappointed
Eddie
Hi Eddie,
I was wondering if you had to add any front spacers to compensate for the added weight of the powerplant and/or front bumper?
Hi jeeptx,
I don’t, but it doesn’t look too bad without them. I can tell you that the added weight of the WARN bumper and PowerPlant winch that I’m running right now has caused my front end to droop about 3/4″ and spacers is on my to do list.
Eddie
3-20 Do you have the 35″ tires on yet?
If so what are your impressions on ride, rubbing etc
thx
Hey Rob, there was a backorder on the new wheels and so I’m still waiting to get them. Hopefully they will be here soon.
Eddie
How is that warn bumper working out for you? Any problems with the skid plate that can go along with it? I have the 07 2 door rubicon with no lift and i am stuck between that bumper and the AEV bumper that just came out. Any suggestions.
Hi Nick,
I like my Warn bumper a lot but it is heavy and depending on what winch you use with it, you should expect to loose some height with it. But then, that’s a problem with any steel front bumper, AEV included. The AEV bumper is a great looking bumper but what I do like about the Warn over it is the fact that it isn’t a 100% full width bumper and it allows for better approach angles.
Eddie
Any word on skid plates for the muffler thats in the back now? ive seen them on some pictures.
Sorry, but none are available at this time. If anyone will have it out soon it will be http://www.RockHard4×4Parts.com
Eddie
Nick, I’m looking into getting a 2″ to 2.5″ Budget Boost for my first mod (JK Unlimited is less than a week old), and I’m hearing conflicting stories about whether I need new shocks or not. Yes, I can see where new shocks with the BB would be a good idea, how badly does it run without them? You said you took it trailriding, no problems? Was the swaybar disco’d when you took it out? What problems have you encountered without replacing the stock shocks?
Ooops…sorry, that should have gone to wayoflife.
Hey 4EverLSU, using the shock extensions that you can get with the TeraFlex 2.5″ BB, you won’t have any problems on or off the pavement. At least, I didn’t and yes, I have wheeled my JK disconnected with this setup through some pretty tough terrain.
Eddie
what tires are you running offroad? with the 2.5″ can u fit 35’s? I havent put my 2 door rubicon to the test yet and was wondering if the 32″ BFG mud terrains work well offroad or should i get a diff set up
I have lifted my Jeep (4dr Sahara) with this lift too. I put 35×12.5×17 Dunlop Mud Rovers on 17×9 ProComp Rims. I have had them on about a month and haven’t rubbed anywhere. It looked okay with the stock wheels and tires on it after the lift, but the new tires really set it off.
Hi Eddie,
I have been looking at doing the same to my JK (2.5 lift w/35’s). Can you tell me the height after the install. I want to know if it will fit in my parking Garage.
Thanks
Chris
Hi Nick,
I apologize for not responding to you sooner, I had been in Moab all week and just got back in town. Anyway, to answer your question, I was running the stock 32’s for quite some time and think it or 33’s make a great fit. I am now on 35’s and can tell you that it does rub the front fenders a bit at a full stuff. But then, I think if I had different back spacing, they may not.
Hi Chris,
Sorry, I haven’t had a chance to take an exact measurement but can tell you that my garage door opening stands 6′-11″ tall and I can make it in with ample room to spare… maybe a whole 5″-6″ to go.
Eddie
Eddie,
Good stuff on the lift information and tire sizes. I’m looking to purchase a new JK Rubicon 4 Door, put a mild lift on it and take my family 4 wheeln’ with me on my local club runs. I currently have a custom built CJ with one original 1982 part in it.. maybe you can guess ! I love my CJ which was built from many CJ, YJ and FSJ parts, Dana 44’s, lockers, TeraLow, GM fuel injected AMC 360, etc. and it has served me many years of great service off road. My requirements have changed and I now have a family. I have three questions for you:
1. Do you feel comfortable putting a family in this vehicle on/off road with this lift in it? 32, 33, 35 tire size?
2. Have you experienced any of the “Free Flow” top issues with the hard top leaking, electrical problems of the motor shutting down while on the road moving and of course the Radio burning out?
3. When is this vehicle getting a V8, 4.7 or 5.7 Hemi? I guess these guys forgot about the 2.8L Carb V6 in the original XJ, underpowered, slow and got lousy mileage…Also, what respectable man wants a Mini-van engine in his Jeep? I can’t understand why Jeep selected a 3.8L engine for a 4300lb vehicle..my CJ weighs 4400lbs dry without gear and I have a V8 that moves it along well but by no means is it a speed demon especially with 4.56 gears and 33 swampers.
thanks
bsr
Chris,
I have my top off right now, so without the top my Jeep sits 6′2″ to the top of the soft top door brackets. So I would add a few inches for the top.
BSR,
I have a preganant wife (5′3″) and a 18 month old daughter. With my 2.5″ lift and the 35s I am really glad I got the side steps on my Sahara Unlimited. I still had to add grab handles so my wife can get in easily, and putting my daughter in her car seat is more difficult, but I have no complaints. We go wheeling about twice a month at my local off-road park, and I can tell you, that taking my family along is part of the reason I bought the Unlimited. Trying to take all the gear and my family in my CJ5 is NO FUN AT ALL!
I haven’t had any engine problems, but my radio has cut out probably three times in the 4 months I’ve had it.
ALl,
I have 17″x9″ rims (ProComp 1089)with 5″ backspacing. I don’t do much rock climbing, but I can see where they would rub at full stuff. They stick out of my fenders about three inches on the road.
I put my spare wheel and tire (35×12.5×17 on 17×9 w/5″BS), on the factory spare mount without any problems. You can still see the third brake light and it doesn’t hit the bumper either. If it had less backspacing I think it would hit the bumper before the gate closes all the way. I don’t have a problem with it getting in the way of the hardtop back window opening either.
My Gas Mileage hasn’t dropped off as much as thought it would. I am still getting 16-18 MPG according to the onboard. I have the 3.21 gears in still (I am stationed in Germany and need the highway gears for the Autobahn) And the AEM Brute Force intake may be helping out a little too.
I installed my Teraflex Budget Boost about a month ago and had my first problem yesterday, I was accelerating hard and in a left hand turn and my steering wheel locked to the left. After I stopped I saw my swaybar links had inverted, and my swaybar was blocking my steering linkage. I highly suggest extended swaybar links if you go with the budget boost. It could have been a big problem if I was in traffic.
I took delivery of my Jeep in December of 06 and had the hardtop on all winter. I had no leaking problems at all. I put the soft top on a few weeks ago and had a leak in the center of the windshield to top seal. I layed the top back and reinstalled it, and haven’t had a leak yet.
With the 2.5 BB would you say it handles the same in turns or is worse?
Thanks
Tim Jones
Hi Brian,
1. Absolutely and I do all the time. First with the factory 32’s and then with a set of 35’s.
2. Nope, none what so ever.
3. With the proper gearing, the little 3.8L isn’t so bad. I’m running 5.13’s now and have no problems with power. Granted, I’d love to have had the 2.8L diesel if they offered it.
Eddie
Hey Tim,
The TeraFlex 2.5″ BB that I installed reused the factory shocks and so to be completely honest, my JK handled pretty much the same.
Eddie
Hey Eddie your the man…. I was thinking of getting this set up for my JK 2 door and was wondering what a 295/75/16 would be like on some MT classics 16×8. This a good tire size for a good mean stance? I live in West Virginia and I cannot have my tires sticking past my flares or the fuzz will pull me over and ticket me for sure! Any ideas on a good stance with about a 33′ tire, THANKS keep up the good work!!
BTW with reguards to the last question, how much will MPG suffer?
Hi BillyHoe, you just want to make sure that the 33″ tall tires are 11″ wide or less or that the back spacing on your wheels are about 5″. This will keep your tires under your flares and you out of trouble.
As far as MPG goes, it won’t suffer much at all with 33’s and just a bit with 35’s.
Eddie
hey I am thinking about doing the 2.5 BB by Teraflex. Do you think it would be wise to get the shocks as well, or to just extend the stock shocks? Also will there be anything else that I will need besides what comes with the kit? And lastly I looked through your instalation steps and it doesn’t look to bad. I am no mechanic though, should I have a professional do it? Any idea what they charge? Thankyou.
Hi Kyle,
If you think you might go taller in the future, I would just stick with the shock extensions for now especially if you like how your Jeep rides now. If you plan on keeping this lift for a long time to come or want to firm up your ride, new shock would be nice to get but only if they are a good set of monotube nitro shocks.
As far as installation goes, please, it really is as easy as it looks and I would highly recommend you doing the install yourself or have a friend give you a hand. Heck, if you’re in the SoCal area, let me know and I would be more than happy to help you out.
Sincerely,
Eddie
Hi Eddie,
What is the maximum lift kit that can be installed on the JK without shock adaptors?
2.5″ seems to me a bit high, so I consider the Daystar 1 3/4″.
This kit comes without shock adapters, and I wonder if the Factory shocks are long enough.
Thanks
Meir
Hi Meir,
Actually, as you can see in this write-up, I ran the 2.5″ shock adapters with this lift, wheeled it hard and didn’t have any problems.
Eddie
Hi how’s it going? Your site was a GREAT deal of help to me., thanks! We got away without disconnecting the track bar.. just lowered the entire axel very carefuly and the the front coil springs came out, BUT we had to use coil compressors. and in the rear we lowerd we did not disconnect the axel either but you have to be careful with your ESP cable. We pulled the fasteners off of the frame and that allowed us to lower the axels all the way down. Both coils came out easy and better yet they both went back on easy.. no coil compressors needed.
But thanks for all the info on your page.
Hey Eddie,
What is the largest tire size for the JK without any lift?
Hi Eddie,
) anyways, I have the following honest feedback on the kit. First off, let me say that I am pretty mechanical, have built up a few 4×4 rigs, done some motorcycle restoration etc, but am by no means a pro mechanic so I think these comments should apply to most:
I just finished the 2.5″ budget lift this weekend, it went smoothly (I amlost tried to track you down to assist if necessary since I think you and I live near each other in OC
1. This is a pretty straightforward kit and the instructions on this site are great. Terraflex did try to substitute a new front bumpstop setup on the kit I received that required a drill and tap and although I could’ve done that easily enough, I wanted the true bolt on and a quick call to them had the correct parts shipped out.
2. Even with the front axle lowered to the point where the brake lines and sensor wires had very little slack, I still needed to use a coil compressor on the front, maybe I could’ve gone a little farther and popped them out, but I didn’t want to risk it. The rears dropped easily enough after loosening one of the sensor wire clips on each side - easy.
3. The washers shipped by Terraflex for the rear shock extensions didn’t fit over the extension bolts, I looked at the way the upper shock mounts and the original bolts went together and decided to go ahead without the washers (the heads on the hex bolts should have no problem holding the slots), but I will be checking them soon and maybe popping some in.
4. The rear brake line extender bothers me a little bit, it looks like the inward bend is necessary to protect the line from the sway bar but the lines now seem to rest on the black dust boot on the rear shock. Again, this doesn’t seem to be a big problem as the boot is not a moving part and the shock travel does not seem like it will cause a flex point into the line, but I found any contact unnerving - has anyone had this problem or dealt with it differently? I didn’t want to modify the bracket until I’ve had a chance to check the other moving parts around the lines.
5. One last thing to watch out for is popping the breather on the rear axle when you lower it - easy enough to pop back on but if you don’t look out for it you’ll miss it.
All-in-all, this is a straight forward kit, a reasonable day project and the ride is maintained since for all intensive purposes you are keeping the factory coils. It seems to steer about the same and I haven’t notices any excessive bump-steer or anything from the track bar re-centering. I haven’t had it in the dirt yet but will try to get it onto a trail this weekend.
PS-Eddie, I also ordered the LoD winch bumper through you - hope it ships soon
Hi Brian, I have seen guys run 33″ tires without any lift but depending on the make of the tires (not all 33″ tires measure the same), you may need to do a little bit of trimming of your air dam as the tire may rub there at a full turn.
Hi Andrew, I’m glad to hear the write-up was helpful to you and yes, I do live in Laguna Niguel so if you ever need any help, by all means, please email me and I would be more than happy to offer up my services.
Eddie
I am getting ready to install 35/12.5/18 on my stock 18′ rims. do you think i will need spacers?
Hi jonathan, yes, in order to clear the 12.50″ wide tires, you will want a set of 1.5″ wheel spacers.
Eddie
Hey WOF, I took your write up and transfered it to a nice PDF with 1 page per step. SOmethin easy to take out to the driveway. Shoot me your e-mail and i will send it to you. You can post it here for others if you like!
I have a 2 door JK Rubicon and I just finished installing the 2.5 BB. The rear axle is not centered due to the lift (repositioning of the rear track bar). Would the rear track bar bracket that Tera-flex sells, required for the their lift that is 4″ or more, would fix the centering issue with this lift?
Hi Rocky,
Yes, a track bar relocation bracket will help to correct your axle shift but in all honesty, it really isn’t needed.
Eddie
Eddie,
Great instructions! I do have a couple of questions though.
1.
The instructions that come with the lift kit state that the spacer should be added to one side then do it to the other side. Your instructions weren’t specific in this area. Would you recommend removing the shocks and springs on both sides and installing the spacers on both sides at the same time? Or would you recommend installing the spacer and reinstalling the spring and shock before moving to the other side?
2.
I haven’t installed equipment on the front yet requiring the 3/4″ leveling spacer; would it be harmful to go ahead and install this spacer while I’m doing this install to save time and effort? After all, it seems like my stock JK Unlimited Sahara is already slightly lower in the front. If I decided to do that (or install it at a later time…) how would it be done? Where is this spacer installed? On top of the 2.5″ spacer?
Thanks,
Michael
Hi Michael,
1. You need to disconnect your swaybar from the axle, remove the shocks, sway bar links and coils on both sides and then install the new spacers and coils at the same time. If you have an automatic, you may find it necessary to disconnect your front drive shaft from the pinion as well.
2. You can install the spacers now and at worst, you will be nose high. I would install them on top of the 2.5″ spacers and below the factory rubber isolator. That way they will be hidden from view under the upper spring perch.
Eddie
Great looking jeep!
One question, does the driveline angles need to change with the 2.5 lift? Do you get any vibration from the drivelines?
Thanks Adam. To answer your question, no, you will not have any driveline vibes due to the new CV style drive shaft Jeep is now using and so your drive line angles will not need to be changed.
Eddie
WOL,
On step 19 above, you mentioned the torque for the front shock mount is 20 ft. lbs. I just wanted to make sure about this since another source mentioned 56 ft. lbs.
thanks for your help
Hi Steve, you are correct, I made a typo and it should have read 56 ft. lbs. just like step 47 states. I will correct this now, thanks for bringing this to my attention.
Eddie
thanks WOL… i just hope i can make it home from work tonight with it :D…. 20 ft. lbs should hold up for a while right?
Oh yeah, it shouldn’t go anywhere and you’ll be fine
Eddie
good to know
one more question WOL,
Yesterday, i was checking everything to make sure they’re all tight. When i got to the rear shocks, when i tried to “Yank” them a little bit, there was a little “Play” on the body of the shocks (though not much, but you can feel it move around a bit). I checked all bolts, and they’re very tight (according to the torque spec).
Is this normal? (most of the play is near the top shock mount)
Steve, do you have new aftermarket shocks or are you using the extension brackets? Either way, are you talking about shifting of the shock in its bushing or within the shock can itself?
I have a new shocks (but i used stock bar pin), and yes, i was referring to an ever so slightly shifting of shock in its bushing. I have to really yank the shocks to do this.
I don’t feel anythin weird during my drive though, both in the city and highway. Maybe i’m just paranoid
LOL!! What you are feeling is normal. Unless you are using a set of bar pin eliminators, there will be some movement in the bushings.
Eddie
Thanks….I’m used to doing suspension work on hondas/acuras…and there is usually no movement whatsoever :D…
Thanks again eddie
You mention the use of (although not required) a longer set of sway bar links (or disconnects up front if you don’t have a Rubicon), front adjustable track bar and rear track bar relocation bracket. I saw the front adjustable track bar and rear track bar relocation bracket on the teraflex site but no longer set of sway bar links. Any idea where to pick those up? Estimate cost of the add-ons since I can not find them priced? (No Rubi here, just a plain X Unlimited) Thanks a bunch!
Hey HatchetMan,
Hmmm, I would think they sell them even though they are not on their website and I would imagine they wouldn’t be too expensive. I would try giving them a call or a vendor that carries TeraFlex products and ask them.
Eddie
Wow cool…always looking for cheap and easy! Question…if a guy was to do this 2.5″ lift, and stuff some 35″ tires on the stock rims under there…what width tire would I want to stick with in order to keep from rubbing? I’m talking on a Unlimited Rubicon now…THANKS!
-Sam
With the 2.5″ boost, do you know if it affects the factory warrenty? I’ve heard when you lift a vihicle it voids the warrenty. Do you know if this is true? And is there a difference in the factory suspinsons of the X, sahara, and rubicon?
Hi Sam,
If you’re planning on running 35″ tires on your factory wheels, you really should consider getting a set of 1.5″ wheel spacers as most of the 35″ tires I know of measure 12.50 in width or wider which is too much.
Dustin,
Lifting your Jeep alone will not void your warranty. Now, if you break a factory part that can be directly traced to the lift itself then that part will not be warrantied (i.e. if you damage a stock shock it will not be replaced).
Eddie
Howdy!
Might want to get a cold one before reading this novel/email… BTW, do you know what impact 35″ tires have on the odo/speedo and ESP? Is it a reprogram or a part change on the 07?
Had the TFlx 2.5 BB Lift with a BDS TrackBar relocation bracket installed (although, the kit did not, as listed on the box, come with the rear stock shock relocation hardware and so shocks had to be mounted in orig location (thus: NO hard WHEEL’n) until the ext hardware comes in. I had RubiconExpress longer braided steel brake lines installed too. Even with stock Rubi tires and wheels, lifting makes it look better to my eye. Who would’ve thunk that 2.5 inches would look so much taller.
After the lift install,I drove home the long way and everything seemed to be in good order… that is, the same as stock. Curiously, there was more noticeable tread/road noise off of the stock tires… tires exposed/not corralled as much??? … or worse, some slight misalignment? My imagination?
Still, I was really impressed that everything seemed so similar to stock as you have mentioned (my assessment too)…
HOWEVER, the next morning I had AEV Argent Pintlers and 35″ Toyos installed and HEY, on the way home I notice some right-drift… no pulling (well maybe a little right pull under braking), not any more bump-steer than stock, but a little right-drift that, while not overwhelming, is noticeable… truly there… just enough to say DANG, it’s not perfect.!
In what little road time I’ve put on it, I seem to, as mentioned in a jeepfan blog, want to hold the steering wheel ever-so-slightly to the left to counter the right-drift. It’s not crabbing and it’s pretty mild, but I want to be sure it isn’t something I have to live with or pay for in tire wear or worse down the road or that will spoil it for wifey when she drives it.
Maybe, the ride home over intentional ruts and bumps in the road to “shake things loose” and/or the jacking up etc. for tire installation, tweaked the lift tech’s alignment. I’ll be having the lift tech look into this when I go back within the next week or so for my follow-up/check and we’ll see what we’ll see.
To repeat, this wasn’t obvious to me until after the tire install, then it was immediately and still noticeable/obvious, although mild.
Also, in addition to the drift-right condition, I now belong to the select group of lifted/big tire 4×4 ‘07 Unlimiteds that have the over-active ESP thing going around on/off ramp curves. I was looking for it before the lift and after the lift and didn’t get it with the stock 32s, but it does happen now (ESP kicks in - braking? I think - and the “skidding vehicle” icon on the dash flashes until we straighten out)… not too bad if you’re prepared for it [which may NOT include wives taking it out without training
]
Like you have mentioned to check, Eddie; I’m hoping it is as simple as the steering wheel, thus the steering inputs to ESP, being a little off-center and that by centering it up (again?… as you say, it might take a couple stabs at it.) might work… possibly a reflash of the ESP if the dealer is willing after the mods.
So maybe the tires changed or added error to the wheel centering, or the action against the vehicle [jacking etc.] tweaked it or the alignment.
PS
There is/are a sensor(s) in the steering column (something called a CLOCKSPRING) that report (I’m guessing here: the steering wheel position/thus driver’s steering input?) to the ESP etc. So maybe if/when the steering wheel is off-center, mechanically the vehicle wants to go off center and maybe electronically it sends funky inputs to ESP on long big radius curves????
The reason I know about the “clockspring” is that my rig had a lot-boy break a key off in the ignition and they tore the steering column down to fix it… afterward my “ESP” (not skidding icon) dash indicator warning came on and stayed on (and I think ESP was disabled.. but not sure) every time I started and drove it for a couple weeks before they replaced that “clockspring”.
Thoughts??? advise?
Regards,
oldbob
I just finished installing the teraflex 2.5″ budget boost on my 2 door rubi and wow what a nice kit, it really gives the Jeep a nice look even with the stock Rubi tires. Also I think they have changed the kit since when alot of you guys installed it. In addition to the parts mentioned in the directions on this site (which were very helpfull btw) I also recieved a pair of longer rear sway bar links. Once installed the stock rear sway bar links go up front to replace the short stock front links. Quite a genious idea although looks like its only with the new kits? so for anyone with short links I would recomend getting the longer rear sway bar links and put your stock links up front.
Chris
Hi Chris, yes, this is a new feature for this kit and for those of you who have Rubicon’s, I would highly recommend that you pick up these links. You can buy them from Northridge4×4 or directly from TeraFlex and they only cost $15.
The kit has changed slightly since the writeup. Besides the addition of the sway bay links for the rear, the rear bump stop extensions have changed also.
The frame-mounted rear bump stop extensions are angled on one end–this needs to face the front of the vehicle. If they’re installed facing the rear, the bump stop will make contact with a bolt well before the top bump stop touches the bottom.
I hope this helps someone avoid the big gash in their bump stop extension like I now have. The irony is I took to a 4WD shop to have it done so it would be done right. They didn’t re-install the factory coil spacers either, which clearly listed, even in the hard-to-read/see TeraFlex instructions.
Thanks for the instructions Eddie. I just finished mine. So far no ESP problems.
Hi, I’ve already installed “Teraflex 2.5″ BB with Shocks” lift kit, and it’s kind of too late to ask…
BUT, how are those Teraflex shocks that come with BB lift kit compare to stock Rubi shocks (red ones)? I believe the TF shocks are 9550 (VSS gas shocks).
I was wondering I should have kept the Rubi shocks and got the adopters instead…
The ride is basically the same. But, I was wondering how durable/strong those Teraflex shocks are… Are their shocks known to be good quality?
Hi JKing, going with new longer shocks is always the way to go and if they are the TeraFlex 9550’s, you did well.
Eddie
Hi everyone, just has this installed Saturday, have the 35s ProComp Xtreme A/Ts on ProComp Wheels 17×8. One Question, when I turn all the way to the right or left the wheels rub the control arms, any suggestions???
Hey man thanks for this write up!!! I just finished mine today and man, it looks sweet. =) There is no way I could have done it with the Teraflex instructions alone- they were a JOKE! WTF! Mine came with the new rear sway bar links- very nice. The Rubi looks a million time better now, gotta get me some bigger tires now. Much appreciated, thanks for the time and effort!
Hey Bill, your tire is rubbing because your axle shifted over when you installed your lift. The only way to help this out is to install an adjustable front track bar. Or, you could always install a couple washers on the steer stops.
Hey Dubya, I’m glad to hear my write-up was able to help you out
Eddie
Eddie, I know you get this constantly, but thanks for the write-up! I’ve put 32″ BFG All Terrains on my 4-door JK. They look so much better than the stock tires. I know you mentioned the warranty above on June 12th, but I was wondering if you know any more detail about trouble with warranty work on a lifted vehicle. I only want to lift 2″ or 2.5″ to give a little more clearance with the new tires, although I realize it isn’t necessary. My service advisor told me that lifting Jeep would essentially void coverage on most of the powertrain components. He said that if something happens to the tranny, for example, the first thing any service department asks is, “Did you modify the vehicle with a lift?” And he said that the repairs would not be covered under the warranty.
Can you shed a little more light on this for me?
Thanks very much,
Dave
Hi Dave, in all honesty, I would find myself a different dealership to work on my Jeep. I broke the rear locker in my highly modified JK sitting on a 3″ lift and 35″ tires and had it replaced under warranty as the service advisor was able to determine that my lift, tires and or new gears were not the reason for it breaking. If your dealer will void any drive train work without even giving your Jeep a good look to see what the real cause your problem was, they’re a dealership to avoid. But, that’s just my 2¢ and the experiences I have had.
Eddie
I just installed my Teraflex 2.5 BB on my 2 door X. I love it. Thanks for the great write up.
Ty
Hey Ty, congradulations on your new lift. I’m glad to know my write-up was helpful to you
Eddie
when you go up in size of tires frm say 30 to 33 do you need to buy a new sensoir or do they just do a flash to keep your speedo and odometer aqurate ?And if I add a new bumper front and rear to keep the 2.5 hight will I need to add spacers or can I just get a heaver shock that will give me the same as factory ride and matian the lift ?
Hey Eddie,
Does the Teraflex 2.5″ BB w/shocks come with twin tube shocks?
Would you recommend the twin tube shocks or the mono shocks?
And lastly, if you could get the Teraflex 2.5″ BB w/ twin tube shocks or the Rubicon Express 2″ BB w/mono shocks for the same price, which would you recommend?
Thanks, Steve
Hey SeaBee, when you install bigger tires, your speedometer will be off unless you have your computer calibrated to match the new size. The only problem is that your dealer can only calibrate your computer to match up to a 32″ tire. And, at the moment, there is no way to work around this. As far as adding bumpers go and a winch goes, they will cause your suspension to sag a bit but installing new shock will not change your ride height. To fix the slight sag, you will need to either stack spacers or get taller coils.
Hey Steve, honestly, I’m not sure what kind of shocks they come with as I just got mine with shock extensions. However, if you could choose, I would highly recommend getting monotube nitro shocks as they typically proved a much better ride on and off the trail. As far as which kit I would go with, a budget boost is pretty much a budget boost and if you’re looking for a bit more height, I would go with the TeraFlex kit. Heck, if you have a Rubicon, I would still get this kit with the shock extensions as the factory Rubi shocks are really nice.
Eddie
Hi Eddie,
Thanks for all the work you are doing with the site, and thanks for replying to my questions regarding the warranty and the statements made by my service writer. I have since installed this lift and took your advice to another member and installed the relocation bracket for the rear. The lift is awesome, and I honestly think my JK handles better than it did prior to installing the lift–less sway on and off the road. We took the JK to the Adirondacks last week for a week of wheeling and had a blast. I also added KC Slimlites with windshield mounts. It’s nothing like your rig, but I’m having a great time. I’ll put some pics on the forum, if that’s alright.
Anyway, thanks for the advice, all your efforts with the site, and for your great write-ups. You have helped out tremendously in my decision making and in the installation process.
Best regards,
Dave
Hi Dave, I’m really glad to know that I was able to help you out and that you are happy with your lift. Thanks for the feedback and if there’s anything I can do for you, please don’t hesitate to ask.
Eddie
wayoflife! Your the man for this write up! aha… i will be using it when i eventually install my 2.5 teraflex bb. The sway bar links need to be installed on the inside in the rear now correct? And then the old rear links move up front exactly how the old fronts were… correct? Im just trying to visualise this with out being under the jeep or looking at a picture.
Also i bought some 285/70/17 BFG Mud Terrains that are going on my stock sahara 17’s. I believe that makes them 11.5 wide? Think ill have any issues with rubbing at full turn or getting the spare on my mount without spacers on either? When i install it i want to knock it all out at once =)
I may even give in and get a relocation bracket and adj sways…
ps. i didnt even think about this… the front would be done and lifted before i even get to the rear following your steps. How involved will it be to go back up front to install the rear links up there?
Hi Jared, you only need to install the new rear links if you have a Rubicon and yes, if you still have factory wheels, you will need to install the links on the inside of the axle mount as the bolt head that attaches to the sway bar will make contact with your factory wheels.
Regarding your new tires, you should be okay with them but yes, you may see some minor rubbing on the air dam at a full turn. Also, you shouldn’t have any problems mounting your spare.
As far as installing your rear links up front goes, it is actually easier to install links in general with your Jeep on the ground so no, you won’t have any problems.
Eddie
Hi wayoflife,
Thanks for the great website, articles, images and write-ups!
Did you ever install the front spacers like you mentioned above, before you installed the larger lift? What are your comments/suggestions if you did?
Hey xleatherneck, I upgraded my lift to a Full Traction 3″ Ultimate Lift and got HD front coils with it. They leveled out my Jeep nicely even with a heavy steel front bumper and WARN PowerPlant winch.
Eddie
Eddie, I have the JK Unlimited Rubicon. I want to lift it, but since my last jeep was a lifted YJ, I love my new ride. Since you have had both the 2.5 and 3 inch lifts, which gives the best ride. We tow it and use it mostly on fire trails, desert and mountain trails and about 50% of the time on the street. The wifey made me get the new jeep because she would’nt ride in the old one any more, boy was I smart, but I do love the ride and I want to keep the best of both worlds. Thanks, Rob
Hi Rob, If you’re happy with the ride that your Rubicon offers now, I would recommend just getting the TeraFlex 2.5″ BD as with it, your ride will not change at all and it’s cheap.
Eddie
Thanks very much. Rob
Hey WOF, Wheres the best spot to buy the BB from Teraflex? Anyone have a good URL for online purchase? I have to get shipping to Canada as well.
Hey WOF, thanks a lot for the write up on this, It’s answered a LOT of questions I’ve had!
You can buy this kit from 4WD, Northridge4×4 or Quadratec. Just find and click on the banner to the right and you should get to where you want to be
Eddie
Hey Eddie,
I am planning to install my 2.5 BB on my new 08 Rubi this week, I live in San Clemente. A couple questions:
you mentioned above to somone that if they where in so cal you would consider helping, San clemente close to where you live by chance??
ANy more word on ESP problems? Know how to adjust the steering back anyways?
Will I be able to get along alright without wheel spacers with bfg 35×12.5’s on stock rims?
ALso any extra install steps on a rubi rather than your sahara?
One more, know of any affordable jeep groups in so cal I should consider joining and can you recomend any trails?
This has been a great source of info!! Thanks so much!
~iadventure
one more thing, did you install the swaybar extenders?
Hey IADVENTURE, I live in Laguna Niguel and would love to help you get your lift installed. Just send me an email at: eddie@project-jk.com and we’ll set up a time to do it.
Regarding your other questions, I never had any ESP problems with the TeraFlex 2.5″ BB and would think you will be good to go as well. As far as running a 12.50 wide tire on stock rims go, you will need to get a set of 1.5″ wheel spacers to prevent any rubbing issues. BTW, I too have a Rubicon and not a Sahara and the only other step there you will have is the installation of the new longer rear sway bar links and the installation of the factory rear links up front.
Now, as far as Jeep groups go, please join us on our runs. We go out 2-3 times a month with JK owners of all build sizes and skill levels and we’d love to have you come along. Check here for upcoming events:
http://www.jk-forum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=45
Please contact me by email and we’ll get you taken care of
Eddie
Hey Eddie,
I just installed my BB 2.5 lift yesterday. YOu had mentioned that you live in Laguna Niguel. Could I drop by to borrow your ACCU PRO to calibrate my 35in tires?
Thanks,
Troy
Eddie,
I installed a 2.5″ Terra Flex Suspension Lift with extended shocks on my 2007 4door Jeep. It is a X model not a rubicon. I kept my stock wheels and placed BFG AT/KO tiers that are 315/70/17 and they fit ok but when I turn all the way right or left they rub on the inside of the wheel against the front cross member bar can you tell me if you feel the 1″ Terra Flex spacers would help stop that problem
Eddie, I have a JK sitting on 32s right now and I want to lift it for both clearance and appearance purposes. I was thinking of the 2.5 teraflex as you’ve installed but I was wondering if the 32 inch tires would look weird and/or not be efficient with that size lift. Should I just go with a smaller lift adn keep my 32s (which work fine for what I do) or go with 2.5 inch and bigger tires. Thanks!
Hi Jon, no, it won’t look weird at all. To see some pics of what it will look like, click on this link:
http://www.project-jk.com/wp-gallery2.php?g2_itemId=20455
Eddie
Hey Eddie, first off I’d like to say “Thanks” as I used your walkthrough on my laptop in the garage to install this lift by myself yesterday. I added a ProComp front adj track bar and the BDS relocation bracket for the rear. It took me a bit longer than the 4-5 hours generally given but it was fun.
I wanted to comment on a couple of findings:
First off (on the X model anyway) you do not have to disconnect the drive shaft. There is a bracket held by 2 bolts underneath that impedes the shaft from lowering past a certain point. It is easy to disconnect and allows for all of the clearance necessary.
The other thing is that if the BDS rear trackbar bracket is used then the links cannot be “moved” to the insides because the passenger side link will hit it.
Hope there is a way to extend this information to other users as the driveshaft alternative could save a lot of unnecessary work (I tried to disconnect it and had a heckuva time before looking for an alternative!). Thanks again. I’d never have tried this mod on my own without your write-up!
Hey WOL, I’ve got a 4 door Rubi, and just had the BB installed. The garage that installed it for me said that they had to remove the rear sway bar, in order to prevent the bar from rubbing with my stock BFG 32’s. What shoudl I be going back and telling these guys. B/C without the swaybar in the rear my JK moves around on the road a lot. It’s not a huge difference but enough for me to express concern.
Thanks WOL,
killer write up as well.
Hi JKFreek, you absolutely NEED the rear sway bar and links installed on your JK in order to keep it driving safely. If you cannot get the new longer links to install on the inside of the mounts, I would recommend that you just install your factory front and rear links back on your Jeep. On pavement, you will be just fine and off road, you should be fine for the most part as well. Trust me, I ran my JK like this for quite some time without any problems. However, if you can afford it, I would highly recommend that you either get new wheels with less back spacing or 1.5″ wheel spacers. This will give you the room you need to reinstall your new links.
Eddie
Sounds good. I’m new to the whole backspacing thing and what it means exactly. However in getting new wheels, would a wider wheel give it enough space? As for new longer links, what links would they be that would solve my problem with the stock wheels. I’d love to buy them I just need to know what ones to get. Its just the rear sway bar that is off, the front is still on.
I’d love to be able to run the stock wheels, if theres an alternate sway bar or links or whatnot (NEWWWWBIEEE!!!) for the rear.
Thanks again
Hey WOL, to add to my previous post, if I install the linkson the opposite side of the sway bar and axle mount should this solve my problem? And do you think I could get away with running a wider tire. Looking at going to 285-70-R17 on the stock wheels.
Hey JKFreek, you can learn all about back spacing here:
http://www.jk-forum.com/showpost.php?p=211274&postcount=3
AS far as a wider wheel goes, the diameter of it shouldn’t change anything other than where your links will rub and physical width of it may make things worse. Factory back spacing is 6.25″ and you will want something closer to 4″ in order to clear things with room to spare. 1.5″ wheel spacers will help you achieve this.
Eddie
Hey, this is a great write up. I just have one question, I am going to order 37 14.00 tires, and I was going to keep my stock jk 17 inch wheels. I already have a 6 inch lift and 1.5 inch spacers. Am I going to have any problem running that wide of a tire on my stock wheels?
Oh and also, will my new 37 14.00 inch tires stick out as much, with the 1.5 spacers, as they would with say 10 inch wide rims?
14″ is a lot of width and in all honesty, I have a hard time believing that you will be able to run them with just 1.5″ wheel spacers and stock wheels. As far as the 10″ wheels go, they will not help things.
Eddie
Ok, well what about 12.50 wide tires? Do you know of anyone who has used them on there stock wheel? Do you think I will have any problems?
Yes. 12.50 on stock wheels can cause your rear sway bar links to make contact with the side walls and a lot of rubbing up front when turning. If you want to keep your factory wheels, you will need wheel spacers.
Eddie
Ok, well will I be ok if I get 1.5 inch spacers?
Yes, you should.
Eddie
Ok Thanks for all of your help. I just decided to go with 20×8.5 rims, and I am still going to use 1.5 spacers. How will I be on clearance with a 6 inch lift, and 35×13.50×20 tires?
I’m sorry I meant 36×13.50×20 tires.
With 6″ of lift, you will have plenty of clearance.
Eddie
hello, I plan on ordering those same rims, but 4wd.com told me that the stock 255/70/18 tires (sahara 08) will not fit on the pro comp 18 x 9 wheels… is this correct? I was then looking at the procomp all terrain as 80% of my driving will be daily and 20% offroad…(not as extreme as u guys) they recommended with those same rims 18 x 9 with 285/60/18…what is the biggest tire i can go with with stock setup without rubbing etc.. will i notice a big handling issue? also i do not know if i can have a lift as i have a meyers snow plow for it in the winter time? thanks and sorry i am a newbie to the jeep world
A 9″ wide wheel is a bit wide for factory tires and the ones they’ve recommended might be a better fit. You should not experience any handling issues with them.
Eddie
Eddie,
Love the website, made me change my mind from buying an old tj for fun to going all out and getting a new unlimited Rubicon. Just had the TF budget boost and 35″ toyo open country on 17″ procomp wheels installed by a very reputable dealer that is known for doing a lot of modifications and not screwing people on warranty issues. Bottom line, the jeep pulls to the right, and seems to be more noticeable at lower speeds (weird), not nearly as bad on highway. Took it back and they recentered the steering wheel, which seems to help a little, but definately still pulls. Any suggestions? would rear location bracket actually help. I’m concerned of wearing these expensive tires! Also, is it normal to experience a mild vibration when first accelerating from dead stop (0-5mph) and when slowing down to under 5 mph? Thanks!!
sorry meant rear track bar bracket
Hi Tee,
Although both your front and rear axles will have shifted a bit due to the lack of adjustable track bars or relocation brackets, it shouldn’t cause your Jeep to drift like this as they are ultimately still running parallel to each other. Have you checked your tire pressure to make sure they are running the same? Also, have you done any wheeling prior to installing this lift? Could be something got bent ever so slightly and now that you are running bigger tires, the condition is being pronounced.
Eddie
Eddie
Just got my new BB lift. It came with what i assume are the new rear sway bar links. However, the instructions are for the older version and make no mention of the new links. What part of the install changes with the new links.
Thanks
Eddie,
We are a Jeep dealer and I saw the picture of your Jeep(awesome) and I want to duplicate it and still have it as an affordable package. The questions I have are as follows:
1. If I keep wheels tires lift etc… is there any difference between an x package and a rubicon.(upfit wise).
2. Automatic or stick. Will I definitely need to regear it/if so what gears do you recommend.
3. Do I need wheel spacers? Will I need different shocks?
Thanks for all your the info you are sharing.
Michael
Hi Tim, all you need to do is remove your factory rear links and install them up front. Then, install these new links in the rear.
Eddie
Thanks. Got the kit installed and it looks great. I believe you did a write up on a rear track bar bracket. I can’t find it so if you could can you tell me the manufacturer of the bracket you used it would be great and if possible a link to the article.
Thanks
Tim
I stand corrected. You did not do the write up on the tarck bar bracket.It was done by Jeepfan.com. Are you familiar witht the write up? Do you have any info about whether I should install it or not. I did notice my rear end is now about 1/2″ over to the right(as you look from the rear).
I was just about convinced to buy the 2.5 BB kit until I started reading about the rear axle alignment problem and pulling to the right. I think I’ll wait a bit until ALL the bugs are worked out before buying it. I don’t want to wear down my new tires prematurely.
Good web site, thanks for all the input.
Hi Tim, This lift does not require a track bar relocation bracket and the shift is completely normal and will not be a problem for you. But, if you really feel the need for one, I would recommned that you install an adjustable one up front and a relocation bracket in the rear that attaches to the frame and NOT the axle. Axle mounted brackets have been known to break the factory mount off.
Hi Carl, the axle shift is not isolated to just the rear axle but rather will occur on your front as well. This is unavoidable with with fixed lenght track bars like your Jeep has from the factory. However, this is hardly what I would call a “problem” or a “bug” and the only thing you would need to fix it is the addition of an adjustable front and rear track bar. As far as pulling to the right goes, the axle shift should not be the cause of this and especially not just because the rear is shifted over nor should it cause premature tire wear.
Eddie
Eddie,
I’ve got an ‘07 Rubicon 2dr. I am planning on getting the TF 2.5″BB. I was also looking into adding the 3/4″ leveling spacers for the front end as I have a winch mounted in Pure Jeep front stubby bumper and would like it be more level. I noticed that you have suggested placing the leveling spacers above the BB spacers. My question is: will I need to worry about any drive-train angles with the installation of both? Also would a 1″ body lift cause any problems? –Steve
Nope, you shouldn’t have any driveline problems with this setup.
Eddie
Awesome! Thanks again for all your help Eddie!
Hi Eddie,
I was wondering if installing this kit would void any factory or dealer warranty that I have. And also, how far do the axels shift? is it noticeable? Thanks,
David
Hi Eddie
debating b/t the fj cruiser leaning mostly to the wrangler cuz i like the look better but its less power. i want to get the sahara and want to keep the stock look but raised with the 18inch stock wheels what size tires would ur recommend was thinking 33′ without rubbing or problems with the 2.5 lift. or would u suggest going for a 3 inch lift instead to obtain this look http://www.project-jk.com/wp-gallery2.php?g2_itemId=10587 and go with 35s.. Im really wanting to just obtaining a stock look with a little beef….dont want look to extreme and to high….to stop me from going into parking structures
secondly i know once lifted the JK will operate slower…. any suggestion and thoughts of regearing over supercharging to retain power from lifting….. thanks please let me know
Hi David,
No, installing this lift will not void your warranty unless your dealer can prove that whatever break your are seeking to have fixed was directly related to what you installed. As far as the axle shift goes, it is very slight and in my opinion, not noticable at all - you would have to know to look for it to see it.
Hi eQ,
33″ tires is a great size to go with for what you want and because the Sahara’s come with 32″ tires from the factory, the difference in size will not be enough to make a noticable difference in power. But, if you are looking for a bit more pep anyway, you might consider having a set of 4.56 gears installed.
Eddie
thanks for the answer earlier,
Just a couple more clarifications, I have an 08′ 2dr X, are there any differences in the install from an 07′ Ive seen alot of lift kits that appear to be 07′ only. Also do I need to swap out my sway bar links with the ones in the kit or is that only for rubicons. Thanks for your help. Your site is the best!,
David
There are no differences and you should be just fine with this kit. As far as the links go, you will be fine using your factory links. Rubicon’s need the swap as the short factory links can cause issues when disconnected.
Eddie
The red 4 door jk in way of lifes email ,looks like it was at a show. Any idea on set of,looks like 18 inch wheels,does it use spacers? what size tires
I’m sorry but what red 4-door are you refering to?
Eddie
Eddie;
Thanks for the detailed write-up. I just completed the lift you made it go much smoother with the tool listing and steps. I installed it on an 08 red rock Sahara. The only thing I did different was I dropped the skid-plate instead of disconnecting the drive shaft and i installed Teraflex shocks. It was a little tight on the front end but the spring went in without compressing. It took me about 4 1/2 hours. Again a big thanks!
Sam
Hey Sam, glad to hear my write-up helped out. Regarding the skid, yeah, that is a step that I’ve included in subsequent write-ups and will most likely update this one with it now.
Eddie
eddie: i asked about the red 4door/ it was in EQs question on 11/30/07 regarding 33s or 35s and the look he wanted.
I wondered if you new the lift and tires size on that jeep. sorry i am new!
Eddie;
Excellently detailed write-up it made for an easy and quick instal. I ended up adding 1.5″ spacers and have now added 305 65/18 BFG ATs. What a ride!I cannot believe the added hight with a simple 2.5″! It sure is nice in the 12″ inches of snow that we have received. Thanks for your help!
dude! getting my kit tomorrow. i’ll be sending you an email for help if i have problems!
4dr X…
merry xmas!
tom
san diego, ca
Excellent! By all means, please do let me know if you have any questions.
Eddie
Eddie,
I could not have done it without it. I installed the 2.5 BB yesterday by myself. I love it. I bought a set of shocks as well. Wow, does it handle better. Not all the bouncing around that I had in the past. I did not have to adjust the steering wheel or take the drive shaft off (lucky I guess). The steering wheel stayed perfect center still. I printed off your write-up and pictures and inserted them in a binder use in the garage. Your guidance was great.
Thx.
Hey Eric, I’m glad to hear my write-up was able to help you out.
Eddie
I am a new jeeper and reading all posted is great info. I have a question about the budget lift. I recently had put a 2.5 inch boost/lift on my 2008 Wrangler unlimited X and was wondering if the same tire sizing applies the one lifted in this article that is a Rubicon?
Thanks
Hi JR, yes, you should be able to run a 33″ tire without any problems and as large as a 35″ with only minor rubbing up front at a full stuff.
Eddie
Eddie,
I have an ‘07 Rubicon JK and I am looking at the 2.5″ TF BB. I read above about the additional sway bar end links being included now, but can’t see any mention of them on any supplier sites. I guess I need to check with the site to see if they are included in their kits? Having said that, will I need them on my Rubicon?
Also after my stock 32’s wear out I will probably move up to 35’s. Will a 12.5″ wide tire fit on the stock Rubi wheel? I know I will need 1.5″ spacers on the stock wheels or new wheels with 4.5″ backspacing. Will I have some rub at full flex regardless? My front air dam has graciously “uninstalled” itself, so I guess that just leaves the control arms and fenders in the way.
Thanks and I really appreciate your help and write-ups!
Yes, the tire will fit great but as you have mentioned, you will need to run wheel spacers to make them work. As far as rubbing goes, you will see some minor rubbing up front at a full flex and a turn.
Eddie
Eddie,
One more thing, I just wanted to check if I will need to install the sway bar end links on the front and rear on my Rubicon?
RubiRedJK
Well, yes, you should. While reinstalling your factory links as is will work, you will run the risk of causing your front links to bind/bend when disconnected.
Eddie
I just recieved my kit today. I have a 07 sahara unlimited/18 wheels with a warn bumper and winch. I’m planning on keeping my stock set up for now. I believe my jk will be all set. Is there any additional parts I should need or concerns before putting the lift on. Wheel spacers, rear track bar relocation bracket, ect. I want to make sure I have every thing I need before ripping into this and have the same ride.
Chuck
Hey Chuck, in terms of tools, everything you will need should be listed in the left hand column at the top of the page. As far as parts go, this kit comes complete with everything you will need.
Eddie
Eddie,
I just got my TF BB with shock adapters. There are a few product changes since your write up.
First that the kit now also comes with new rear swaybar links.
TF instructions for the swaybar links. (Instuction version 22 Oct 07)
21. Remove stock rear swaybar links and move them to the front.
22. Discard factory front swaybar links.
23. Install new rear swaybar links, provided in the kit, on the inside of the sway bar and axle brackets with special care when placing the bolts to avoid rubbing
on the frame or sidewall.
Secondly and more notable is the warning on the box and instructions that state:
“With our longer shocks or shock extensions the factory left rear tire may rub on the sway bar at full droop. The tire will not rub at normal ride height. To take full advantage of the Budget Boost suspension travel, wheel spacers or after market wheels are required.”
Eddie,
new lift just came in the mail. I am ready to install but lately I have seen threads in forum about safty issues with track bar bracket breaking. Im not sure when those threads were posted. Teraflex rep I believe said they were making a new part to solve problem. Can you tell me if there is any truth to this?
I dont want to install lift if there is an issue of the death wabble I will wait until fix comes out. My daughter is with me everyday on the road and I dont want to take the chase if its true.
Thank You for all the info you’ve given us
Hi chad,
The threads you are refering do not apply to this kit as it does not come with a track bar relocation bracket. Some kits like the Skyjacker kit had brackets that bolted onto the axle mounts and this did cause quite a few breaks. Regarding TeraFlex, the only thing I was aware of with them was a track bar bushing crush sleeve that was on the small side but I believe they have since improved upon this. Either way, it would not apply to you as again, this kit does not address the track bar in any way shape or form. As far as death wobble goes, 9 out of 10 people who claim to have it - DON’T. More times than not, they just have a bad shimmy in the steering wheel and that is typically associated with tires that are properly balanced - a common problem with larger off road tires. Of those people that did really have death wobble, most probably didn’t have their track bar tightend to torque specs. Needless to say, I think you have yourself all worried over nothing
Eddie
Glad to hear that… Thank you again
installing tonight
chad
Hi Eddie,
Grate Write-up.
I’m looking to get a wheel spacers for a JK.
Can you tell me if a solid steel from Teraflex is stronger the the aluminum one offered by Spidertrex?
Thanks for your help.
eddie,
the spacers needed to run stock wheels are they just the 5×5″
1 1/4 spacer that it seems everyone carries or does it have to be
wider to run stock?
Thank you
Ron, I have never run steel spacers before but I have aluminum like the kind Spidertrax makes and can tell you that they are very strong and I never had any problems with mine while I was running them on my TJ.
xmotox, the spacers are actually 1.5″ thick as anything less will require some grinding of your factory wheel studs. You need less back spacing in order to run wider tires so yes, they will make your stance widers.
Eddie
do I need spacers even if I stick with stock wheels and tires for now? Thank You
Only if you plan on installing the new TeraFlex rear sway bar links as they will cause rubbing on your rear tire sidewalls if you don’t.
I’ve decided to go with this budget boost since my JK will remain my daily driver. I also plan to add a 10,000# winch, but am having trouble deciding between an expensive Warn mounting plate for the the factory front bumper ($300) or to spend a little more ($550~800) and replace the bumper.
I’ve read a lot of great information on here, and it seems the weight of just the Warn mounting plate (@ 50 lbs) and a winch (@ 100 lbs) is causing a little sag in the front…and this is on Rubicons with the upgraded shocks…I have a 2008 JK 4dr Sahara.
How much of a sag are we talking about on a Rubicon versus a Sahara?
Would a 3/4″ leveling spacer be appropriate to adjust for 150 lbs? What about additional weight if I decide to replace the bumper too? Would it be better if I replaced the front shocks with something a little longer to offset this instead of combining the shock extension from the budget boost with the leveling spacer?
What I can tell you is that with the addition of a heavy duty steel bumper and WARN Power Plant, you will see about 3/4″ of sag. So, if you just get the winch plate and winch, I would guess that you would only need about 1/2″ spacers.
Eddie
I have a 2008 JK 4wd 4dr Sahara and still contemplating this budget boost.
I have been looking at several lift kits from 2.5″ ~ 4″. I am looking to fit 35″ tires on aftermarket rims which appears to be no problem on the new JKs (considering all backspacing issues and spacers). My only concern with a lift is the rear axle shifting off-center with a lift over 2″. I don’t know if this should be addressed with a track bar relocation bracket, an adjustable track bar, adjustable track bar links, etc.
I have been trying to figure out what exactly comes in the Teraflex 2.5″ Budget Boost, Full Traction 3″ Economy, Pro Comp Stage 1 4″, and Superlift 4″. I want to keep the total cost under $650.
Originally, I was sold on the Teraflex 2.5″ Budget Boost, but if I need to buy an adjustable track bar (or other option) for $200, then I am almost in the range of the other 3 options above which include more items to help adjust the geometry. 4″ lift also sounds preferable for about the same price, BUT it also begins to concern me with driveshaft angles. I am still leaning towards the budget boost in hopes that one $200 item will be enough to address the re-centering of the rear axle.
What would you suggest as the best way to deal with the re-centering of the rear axle and keeping the geometry correct all around?
Clint, the shift you will see on both axles (not just the rear) with this budget boost is quite literally about 1/8″… maybe 1/4″ tops. It is insignificant and will not be a problem that needs to be corrected with an adjustable track bar or even relocation bracket. In fact, installing either (depending on make) could actually cause your axle to shift the other direction as some track bars have a minimum lenght that is too long or a relocation bracket designed for a lesser/taller lift. Either way, not having one really shouldn’t be your deciding factor here.
Eddie
Thanks so much. That is a very small shift, and much less than some write-ups made it sound like.
No problem. I wheel with a couple of guys who have had this kit on for about a year now and have not had any problems what so ever even without any track bar relocation brackets.
Eddie
I’m now decided on this kit (final answer…YES). I was thinking to upgrade to 35″ tires from my factory 32″, but am now re-thinking that as I don’t want to buy a speedo recalibration device. Most of my driving will be dirt, mud, and very small stream ‘puddles’. I plan to keep my factory Sahara all terrains, so would like something more aggressive but not awful on the highway. I’m looking at wheels in the 15-17″ range, and I’d like to get an inch or two wider than the factory 255’s.
What do you suggest as a good 32″ tire that will be minimal speedo effects?
On step 42) above, you describe using the rear brake line extensions included in the kit, but in the ‘What you will get’ list, they aren’t listed. Are brake line extension brackets included? Rear and Front brackets?
Thanks again!
Yes, they are included and them not being in the list was just a mistake on my behalf. As far as tires go, 255 pretty much equals a 32″ tire and so I would recommend that you get a 33″ tire instead as they would make a great fit. As far as what kind to get, I really like the new Pro Comp Xtreme A/T’s if your looking for a good all around tire. If you are looking for a good mudder, I really like Toyo M/T’s but the Pro Comp Xterem M/T’s work great too.
Eddie
WOL-
Do you have that PDF that Greg made of this write up? I’m looking to do the install on my 4-door Rubicon this weekend and I think that it would be a great help. BTW the write up is great!
Send me an email at eddie@project-jk.com and I will send it to you.
Eddie I have to say Im glad you did the write up. You saved me alot of time. Thanks
Eddie-
Just did my install this weekend. Took a little longer than expected but it was worth it. At first I did not install the rear sway bar links on the inside of the axle mount. I went out to test drive my rubicon and noticed a clicking noise coming from the rear. Then I remembered the comment about needing to move the link to the inside of the axle mount. I moved it but the link seems to now be hitting the mounting bracket. Do I also need to move the upper mount to the inside? It just seems like it does not have a lot ability to rotate.
Frank
Actually, if you are using the new links, you will need to pick up a set of wheel spacers to help reduce your back spacing.
Eddie
I just installed my lift on my 2008 on Friday and have the same problem. The new rear links measure 12.5″, or nearly 4″ longer than the originals. Because of this, it seems that the upper sway bar bolt head rubs on the inside of the wheel rim/edge when the vehicle is tilted at the slightest. I was getting a lot of noise when I first drove it around the block…especially turning to the right. Mine seems to only be rubbing on the driver side, but there isn’t much clearance on the passenger side either.
The lift was only 2.5″, so it seems that if these sway bar links were shorter, they would clear the wheel better.
I thought about moving the link to the inside of both the axle mount and the sway bar, but it will not fit and move freely on the axle mount end.
Do these new kits include sway bar links that are overly long (14″ eye to eye)? Could this be a packing mistake by Teraflex?
How long are the adjustable links now on the market? Would it be better to get wheel spacers or adjustable links to help clear the wheels?
I took a couple pictures of the clearance problem if you’d like to add them for a visual.
Eddie-
I thought that I read that I could get away without the spacers if I mounted the links on the inside. Is this not the case? Do I NEED to get the 1.5″ spacers?
Frank
Clint, I did not get new links with my kit so I don’t know how long the new ones are supposed to be but what you have does sound a bit long. Perhaps you should contact TeraFlex to see if they shipped out the right ones.
Frank, apparently, this is no longer the case or, at least if you do not redrill the mounting holes on your axle mount a bit higher up.
Eddie
I saw this on one of the threads last night. So if I redrill the mounting holes up about 3/4″ I should be okay? I was just affraid that drilling a new hole would weaking the mounting point where it may break while on the trail.
Yeah, you should be fine so long as you provide enough room in between the existing hole and the new one.
Eddie
Last question…
If I go up to 35″ tires (which I plan on doing in the future), I will have to install the wheel spacers though right?
hello Eddie
i wanted first to thank you for all what your doing to help us transforme our jeep!
i have a jeep rubicon unlimited and i want to install a 35″tire but keep the original wheels(17×7,5) that the factury give, as i saw on the picture uper.
do you think its possible ?
if yes what are the references so that i can order the tire.
ps:sorry my english is not good and i am extremely new in jeep world!
thank you
filali
I will be going to 35″ tires also, and probably 12.5 wide. I went ahead and ordered some wheel spacers so that I could run my stock wheels/tires with the sway bar links on the original outside position, and also so that I will have no worries when I get the new wheels tires.
I am still waiting to hear back from Teraflex on my question concerning the length of the sway bar links, but will post that info when I know more.
Hi filali, yes, you can keep your factory wheels but you will need to install wheel spacers like the kind Spidertrax makes. They will reduce your back spacing and make it possible for your 35″ tires to fit without any problems.
Hi Eddie,
I’m just about to install my 2.5″BB. I’m reading everything that I could before doing the job. Only questions is that with the new Terraflex, they also sent quick disconnect sway bar. I have a Rubicon 2007 with factory sway bar disconnect, do i have to install the ones sent with the kit??? Will the quick disconnect work even with 2.5″ lift???
Thank you for your help,
Sylvain
Are you sure they are disconnects and not just longer rear links? If they really are disconnects, you do not want to install them as your Rubicon will not need them.
Eddie
Good day Eddie,
Have a ‘07 Sahara and a new 2.5″bb ready to install… From what I have read, the stock 18″ wheels and tires will rub w/o spacers… Is that correct? Would like to crank it out and get on the trail but if I need the spacers, better obtain the sets before the axles are unbolted…..
THKS man,
ASH
This is the response I got from Teraflex:
“Hi Clint, what tire wheel combination are you running. We have found that some factory tire wheel combinations will rub with a 2.5′ BB and some will clear. We recommend wheel spacers with factory rims. We have also found that the lower rear swat bar link mounting tab is smaller on some models, and there is very little clearance for the aftermarket link. If you hold the link at an angle and insert the bolt through the link and the tab at a
slight angle, then start the nut, the link will pull into place. The rear links are designed to work with a 2.5″ to 4″ lift. If you have any other questions feel free to contact me, Thanks Doug.”
I still disagree with attaching the sway bar link to the inside of the axle mount. It is a very tight fit, and I don’t see much room for it to move without hitting the axle…although it would be fine for on-road driving.
I did install my wheel spacers yesterday, so I now have 1.5″+ clearance on each side. With new wheels with adjusted offset and new tires, this clearance will only increase. I will just have to watch as the ‘rub’ I was getting was against the 18″ wheel…with smaller diameter wheels, a rub would be against rubber, but 2″+ of clearance after spacers and better wheel offset should be more than enough.
Keep up the great site. Eddie, you’ve got a JK’rs dream site started here. And everyone else, all our postings are what help make this so useful. KEEP IT GOING!
I have already installed my BB. I did not have any issues with my install and it rides great- I did need wheel spacers because of the rear right wheel was rubbing slightly on turns with passengers. Your install tips was right on the money and thanks. The issue I have now is that my front end sags from the Warn winch and bumper. I see that you explained where to place the spacer in one of your responses. Did you have any issues putting the spacer upon a spacer and what would you recommend for a spacer. I’m not sure if its worth putting them on or not.
Thanks again.
Chuck, you can pretty much place the additional spacer where ever you want but I would put it in between the tall spacer and rubber isolator. That way it will be hidden from view once installed. No problems using both.
Eddie
I want to run 35″ tires on this 2.5″ BB lift. Do you think adding a 1″ Body Lift will comprimise anything that the TeraFlex 2.5″ lift did by way of smooth driving on and off road? I am completely new to Jeeps and 4×4ing in general. Thank you for your time.
A body lift will do just that, lift the body up off the frame 1″ and will not have any effect on your ride as it has nothing to do with your suspension.
Eddie
First, thanks for the fantastic write up. I have a question about sway bar end links and an extra 3/4″ hockey puck. I’m about to install a BDS 2″ Budget Boost on an 08 Rubicon so do I need new extended sway bar links for the rear and put the ones out back up front? Also would it be ok to place the 3/4″ spacer in-between the BDS spacer up front to eliminate the rake? Again thanks for the write up.
yes, it would be okay to stack an extra spacer in between your BB to help eliminate your rake but IHMO, 3/4″ is too much especially if you do not have a heavy aftermarket bumper and winch. that is unless you’d rather have your jeep sitting a bit nose up. also, i would be cautious about using a hockey puck to do this as it will not be the same diameter as the rubber isolator. last but not least, regarding the sway bar links, IF you do decide to install 3/4″ spacers on top of your 2″ BB, you will want to get extended links for the rear and install the factory rear up front.
Eddie
WOL,
awesome write up. I have three
questions before I start my install of the 2.5BB.
1. I have wrangler x and I got the new sway bar links. Can I still use them even though its not a Rubicon ?
2. Is the kit supposed to come with new bolts for the rear shock extensions? I got the extensions but no appearant bolts that will work.
3. How do I install the rear trac bar bracket that came with my kit?
thanks
Sam
Eddie
I installed the budget boost several months ago. I am very happy with it but would like to find out the best way to raise the front to be level with the rear.
Thanks
Stacking a 1/2″ coil spacer up front should do the trick. If you go more, your Jeep might look a bit nose up especially once you load it up.
Hi Sam,
1. Yes, but you will need wheel spacers or aftermarket wheels with less back spacing in order to clear them in the rear.
2. Yes - if you did not get them, you need to contact your vendor or TeraFlex as they are missing.
3. Unfortunately, I do not know for sure as I did not have one to install. However, you might want to check the Full Tracion 3″ Economy lift write-up as it has an installation for one and it might be the same.
Eddie
Eddie I have a 2.5 BB and flexed it a little then looked under my jeep and noticed that I almost pulled my rear brake line off with the blot from the rear sway bar. do you know if anyone else has had this problem and what would you suggest to try?
Thanks
is it safe to assume that you do not have an adjustable track bar or track bar relocation bracket? if so, the axle shift you will see will be just enough to cause this problem. the simple solution to it is to just bend the brackets inward a bit.
Hi Eddie,
Great stuff! You may have answered this a bunch a times already, but I got my 2.5″ budget boost today and there is a sticker on the box saying that I must get wheel spacers if I plan on using my stock wheels. I looked around at wheel spacers and the various websites indicate that the spacers are just for folks who want larger tires…they don’t really talk about needing them for lifts alone. From reading the questions/answers here, it appears that Teraflex may have modified the kit to include some new parts. Is that why the spacers are now necessary? Are they really necessary if I’m staying with stock wheels and tires on my Wrangler X? Did you need them when you were riding around on your stock wheels?
Thanks,
Finn
the spacers are needed if you plan on installing the new rear sway bar links that come with the kit as the links will make contact with your wheels/tire side walls. since you have an x, i would recommend NOT installing the new links and you will be just fine.
Hi,
Great site , thanks for making it available.
Getting ready to start installation of my new 2.5bb on my 2008 Rubicon 2 dr and have some questions. I am going to be staying with the stock wheels and tires for the foreseeable future and would like to keep them as far under the fender flares as possible. Therefore I would like to not use wheel spacers. Would buying a new set of stock rear swaybar connectors from my local Jeep dealer for the front swaybar installation and keep the existing swaybar connectors on the rear cure the clearance problems with the swaybar connectors? Also would it be better to not use the trackbar relocator. It would seem that if both axles shift 1/8 ” to 1/4″ then using the relocator on the rear and recentering it and leaving the front axle shifted therefore no longer having the axles parrelel would be worse than not using the relocator at all.
Reading through your early threads it appears that you did not get therefore did not change swaybar connectors or use the trackbar relocator and apparently had no problems , did you use wheel spacers when you were still running stock wheels and tires?
If staying with stock swaybar connectors would I still install them on the outsides of the swaybar and frame mount?
Thanx
Chas
hi chas, yes, i would think if you picked up a set of factory rear links to use in the rear, that would be an acceptable solution. i would install the track bar relocation brackets as they will help recenter your axles and insure you won’t have any rubbing issues with the rear links. if you use the factory links, you will not need to run wheel spacers.
eddie
Hey Eddie,
First of all, your website is great and has helped out tremendously in deciding what to do with my JK. I have a few questions concerning the Budget Boost 2.5in lift. I have read some of the posts above and I am still a little bit unclear. I have a 2008 two door Wrangler X. I am planning on going up to 33in. BFgoodrich All-Terrains and using the stock rims. Do I need wheel spacers for 33’s with the stock rims or are 33’s not large enough to warrant spacers? I am a college student and gas prices alone are eating right through my wallet so I don’t want to spend an extra 250 dollars or so on spacers if I really do not need them. Also, will I need to install the new rear sway bar links on my X or is that only for Rubicons? Once again, thanks for all the help your website has provided. It is the best JK website I have been too so far.
-Will
hey will, you will need to run wheel spacers if your 33’s measure 12.50″ wide. if you get 10.50’s, you should be okay. regarding the rear sway bar links, no, if you do not have a rubicon, you will not need to install the new taller links.
eddie
Hi
Thanks for the great write up, it was very helpful as the Teraflex destructions stink!
Just an FYI they now put the track bar reclocation bracket in the kit.
Just an FYI to all.
Lin
OK I have read thew the whole list of Q&A and i have this Q
2007 JK Sierra
2.5 in. BB
can you fit 17×8 4.5 in backspacing wheels with 35×12.5 on it with no spacers?
If you are refering to NO wheel spacers, yes, you can. if you are refering to NO budget boost - NO, you can’t.
yes the budget boost with no spacers. got it
thanks.
I have had the BB in about a month. If you have the right tools the install is pretty much like you say.
I also installed 1 1/2 spacers and new Nitto 32″x12.5″ tires on the stock 18″ rims on my Sahara 4 door.
I do have a lot of sway when I hit ruts in the road at higher 30+ speeds. I am not sure if I missed something (installed all the parts) or if this is typical. I did have the swaying before I changed out the stock tires about two weeks ago.
can you be more specific - what exactly do you mean by “swaying”?
Other words might be floating? or slight jerking or feeling like I need to overcorrect when I hit a rut in the asphalt etc. Sorry, that it the best I can do.
Do you think if I install a stubby bumper and a WARN M8000 (not the heavier PowerPlant), I’ll still see drooping in the front? Wondering if I should bother with the 3/4″ coil spacers. Looks like the M8000 is about 42lbs lighter than the PowerPlant 9500.
it’s added weight and so you will see some droop - just not as much. personally, i would install things as you really need them. in other words, do your lift without the 3/4″ spacers and then add them if you need them.
WOL,
after wheeling last friday, my front passenger spring is slightly bowed. i checked the lower perch and it seems to be seated properly. the driver side is straight. Neither side rubs or touches the bump stops.
what has caused this? is this a problem?
Did mine today, it was a PIA. Had some tech problems, pretty much all the ones listed above. I installed the new rear sway bars on the INSIDE? Is that ok? Thanks for the write up, much better than the directions.
ben, did you opt for the replacement coils or are you just using the coil spacers? a slight bowing really is no big deal and if you got new coils, it is pretty common.
john, if you were able to get them install, having the links on the inside is okay.
Eddie,
Did the Terraflex 2.5 bb lift on my 08 Rubicon 2 dr. about a month ago and thanks to your articles , personal help and the pdf.s you sent the installation was a breeze.The ride and handling are at least as good as stock and possibly a tad better. Have put about 4000 miles on it including 7 days at Moab and a 120 mile beach run at Padre Island , Texas, with zero problems. At Moab we ran some of the more difficult trails, including “Golden Spike” and was able to do golden crack with no damage, this with stock 32’s and stock plastic bumpers and air dam and once again no damage. Needless to say ,but I am very happy with the results.
Thanks again
Chas
Eddie,
Getting ready to install the 2.5BB lift on my 08 2-door X. I installed a new much heavier front bumper and I am planning on installing a winch in the near future. I ordered 3/4in spacers to level out the front end due to the extra weight. With the addition of the 3/4in front spacers along with the 2.5in BB, is using the rear sway bar links on the front and installing the new longer ones in the back necessary. When I asked you earlier about this you said it was only necessary for rubi’s but I did not know if the added height due to the extra spacer would change this. Also, with the lift the warning says that the longer sway bar links for the rear will only touch the stock wheels at full suspension compression. I know that you did not have the knew links with your kit but I didn’t know whether or not you knew if this was the case or if they rubbed during most normal driving. I am getting 16×10 Pro Comp 8089 rims and 35×12.5 BFG All-Terrains, but they won’t be in for a couple of weeks and I wanted to install the budget boost kit now, but I also want to be able to drive my Jeep around on the road until I get the new wheels without worrying about rubbing.
Thanks for all your help,
Will
And also, I know with this lift a dropped pitman arm is not necessary, but would you recommend installing a new one? Did you have any trouble just using the stock one after you put the lift on?
hey will, if you don’t have a rubi, you really don’t need to install the new links. the new links will help with articulation on the trail and if you plan on doing a lot of wheeling, i would install them. as far as your tires go, yeah, you be fine riding around with what you have until you get your new ones. oh, as far as the dropped pitman arm goes, no, you will not need one.
The picture shown next to step number 41 shows the sway bar link on the outside (closer to the wheel) of the sway bar and sway bar bracket. This contradicts both the instructions and pictures on the Teraflex instructions. You may want to update your pic to avoid confusion.
the outside is how the links were installed from the factory and how they should be installed unless you do not have wheels with less backspacing or wheel spacers.
Hello Eddie,
I installed the kit according your write up. Thank you!
I still did everything else. Is this a problem? Why would I need to do so?
Because I did something like this the first time I have the following questions:
1) In Step No 8, I did not disconnect the front track bar (I forgot it
2)While taking the nut off my left shock (Step No 6, Stud mount nut), I broke the complete thread (RUST!) I had about 8mm thread left on the shock to install the shock extension. How big is this problem? Can I drive on pavement for a couple weeks or should I get a new shock right away? Is this a warranty thing?
Thank you!
Alex
hey alex, you should be fine in both cases
Hi again,
I just learned that there should be bracket to extend the rear track bar. I did not receive this with the kit and the write up does not mention this. I do have an rear axle offset of 1 inch!! (The upper driver link bolt is touching the wheel now!)
Please help,
Thanks
Alex
no, it might be off by about 1/8″-1/4″ at most. you will be fine without it.
Hi Eddie,
I love your write ups, and the Project-JK site and forums! I’m from Australia, and have learned so much from your write ups. I have a question. I have a 2″ lift, from a local manufacturer - which consists of Shocks and coils. The front coils have basically sagged to near stock height! I was thinking of getting coil spacers, or a BB like this Terraflex kit, but local mechanics tell me it would put too much strain on the coils? I don’t know what to do…and figure that I would actually be better positioned with my aftermarket coils/shocks, as they are longer than stock. What are your thoughts on this (adding a 2.5 BB or spacers, to a Rubicon with already replaced aftermarket shocks/coils)?
so long as you install the bump stop extensions like you are supposed to, you will not have any problems with installing a BB on top of what you already have.
Hey WOL,
I followed your instructions and it was really quite easy. However, I was so “into it” that I didn’t install the new rear track bar relocation bracket. I just went by your instructions and used a ratchet strap to pull it back to the factory location. Is there any real advantage to using the bracket? Do you suggest that I go back in and install it or just roll with it the way it is?
hey billy, while it’s not needed, the installation of that bracket will help to recenter your axle and so i would recommend that you install it.
I have a 4 door sahara unlimited with a 2″ body lift. Plan on installing the 2.5″ spacer lift also. Will this cause any problems. It does not have the dana 44 ax. Is going with 35″ tires a problem with the smaller axle. what gears should I go with for 35″ tires. What tires would you recommend? I do alot of highway driving so I want something that looks good and will last. WHat do you think about cooper STT? No rock climbing just mud if anything. Can you put locking hub on the sahara?
you should be fine with this setup
eddie, i have 08 jk with 2.5 lift, factory tire 255/75/17 could i run 285/70/17 without it rubbing.
you can run them but you might see a little rubbing at a full turn. it really just depends on the make of the tire. some are bigger and some are smaller.
wayoflife, thanks for getting back,what brand do do think would work ,i think their 11.5 wide
just about all brands will work find and as i said, you might just see some minor rubbing at a full turn. if you do have some rubbing, you can fix it by adding washers to your steer stops.
I have a question that I don’t think has been asked. So here it goes.
If I install this 2.5″ BB, and then a year from now, have a buddy give me his 3″ lift coils from his jeep that is now getting a larger lift. Could I, (if I had all the correct track bar bracket’s and adj track bar’s and shocks etc etc) use the 3″ coil with the 2.5″BB for a total of 5.5″ of lift? and then install the Long Arm Upgrade Kit?
Or would it be dangerous to run this set up?
Hope this question wasn’t to wild.
Thanks,
LAHAL
no, it wouldn’t be dangerous and you may not even “need” a set of long arms to do it. but, if you can just get the right coils for the job, that would be the better way to go.
Could you still run the stock front and back bumpers with the 35s you put on?? Did you install wheel spacers with the 35s? If so, what size? Im looking to install this Teraflex BB with M.T. MTZs(35×12.5/r17) with M.T. Sidebiter wheels. I was thinking about installing some Spidertrax 1-1/4″ spacers to prevent rubbing. What do you think. Thanks.
yes, you can still run factory bumpers with 35’s. up front, you will see some rubbing of the air dam at a full turn and in the rear, it will be a tight fit but doable. if you get new aftermarket wheels, just make sure that the backspacing on them is 4.5″ or less and you will not need wheel spacers.
what size spacer do you recommend for a wheel that has 5.71 of backspacing
is that really the only size back spacing it’s available in? i would ask to make sure because most wheels come in a variety of back spacing. if so, the smallest wheel spacer you can get and still be safe is 1.25″ and even at that, you will need to grind your wheel studs a bit. otherwise, you will need to get 1.5″
Im interested in lifting my 08 jk sahara 4 door and have some questions. Ive bought the rough country 2.5″ bb lift that is very similiar to this one and is also capable of clearing 35’s. My real concern is the backspacing of my wheels. Im buying new wheels that offer a couple of different options. The lift recommends 4.5″ backspacing but can more be acceptable to ensure against rubbing? Ive read on other posts that too much can actually cause rubbing so Im pretty lost in my decisions. How will wheel offsets effect rubbing also?
more back spacing will pull your wheels in closer to your frame and this is where rubbing issues come into play. less back spacing will push your tires out from under your fenders and this will help you to clear them. 4.5″ or less is what you want.
How will wheel offsets effect the possibilities of rubbing?
it should actually help prevent rubbing.
How important are the use of bumpstops in a lift like this? I have a similiar lift that didnt include bumpstops so Im planning on buying some from teraflex. What size would be right for my lift?
bumpstops are needed to help prevent the over compression of your coils. for 2.5″ of lift, you should have about 2″ of extensions.
Got this package on my 2007 Jeep Sahara. I looks hot!
WOL, many thanks for all you do for us at this site. I picked up both a 2008 Sahara 4×2 Unlimited and 2008 Sahara 4×4 Unlimited (during the crazy sell-off by Chrysler earlier this year) that are both stock. My wife and I both like the lifted look that the BB gives. Can this kit be used on the 4×2 also, to your knowledge? If so, are there any significant changes? I appreciate any info you might have.
yes, you most certainly can install this lift on your jeep and there are no changes at all to how they are installed.
Firstly - nice forum (just joined).
Me : 2007 JK 2DR Rubicon - Stock Factory setup.
Mission : 80% pavement (sadly), 20 % trails and rocks but not necessarily the Rubicon trail (not immediately anyway). I want to attempt to retain the stock ride feel ( i like it) but not the look. On 35s, it looks right.
My final targeted config:
35″ tires with 2.5 - 3″ suspension lift + Bumper/winch upgrades (sorry i don’t believe in the Unichip snake-oil nor cooling air unless i see Dyno results)
I’ve read the entire thread.
My conclusion :
Option (1) : Do a 3 inch body lift. Cheesy yes i know.
Option (2) Do the Teraflex 2.5″ BB suspension, keep the Rubicon stock shock-absorbers and get extensions, put in spacers to deal with the wider tires.
Downside : with 35″ tires, I’ll have minor rub at full flex in a full deflection turn.
or
Option (3): Do a 3″ suspension lift, replace shock absorbers (which manufacturer?) and not have any issues.
Downside : Cost.
Questions :
a) Are my conclusions correct ?
b) Any suggestions on the 3″ lift manufacturer ? Which shock absorbers? I see lots of options but not many independent reviews.
e.g ZONE, AEV, Skyjacker, Rubicon express and so on.
c) For someone who lives in NYC (and doesn’t have access to a garage to do the job himself), how would i validate that the shop i give the job to (don’t have a choice) does it correctly. Any Reputable shops in NJ/NY who know what they’re doing ?
-a.
if price is an issue, your best bet is to get a 2.5″ BB, keep your rubi shocks and get a 1″ body lift as that’ll give you what you need to clear 35’s and retain your factory ride. if you can afford to get a lift, i would recommend going this route:
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-ups/northridge4×4-old-man-emu-jeep-jk-wrangler-long-travel-lift-kit-installation-write-up
I was wondering what the difference was between the 2.5″ BB, and the 2.5″ lift that comes with new coils. Is that it, instead of spacers you just get longer coils? Which do you recommend? Great website too, thanks for the info.
yup, that’s it. one is cheaper and the other gives you new coils. if you can afford it, i would recommend getting the new coils.
What I didn’t understand are the relocation brackets.
Why would you mount a rear one to recenter the rear axle, and not something for the front axle?
How can you bring in perfect alignment both 2 axles with this 2,5″ kit?
I have a 2008 sahara with 18″ stock wheels. TKS!
driving around with your axles not recentered is not so much of a problem but, in the rear, the axle shift is enough that depending on how wide your tires are, the driver side side wall can come into contact with the rear sway bar. better than a relocation bracket, i would recommend that you get an adjustable track bar both front and rear.
Eddie,
Thanks for the site, where did you find the kit for $225 the cheapest I have seen it with adapters is $325.
the kit i had was one of the first and was offered with less parts. the new kits are more complete and that is what you are paying for.
thanks for the write up, i just bought the terraflex 2.5 spacer lift for my 07 x 2 door. my question is will this kit level the jeep or will i need a 3/4 spacer also, the jeep is completely stock now. the kit didnt come with shock ex. im planning on buying more shocks before i install the lift
“level” is completely subjective and what most people consider to be level, i think is nose high. having said that, if you want your front end to be nose high, no, this kit will not do that for you and the addition of a a 1/2″ or 3/4″ spacers is what you will need.
thanks for the info, i guess ill have to buy some spacers
Eddie, I have a JK Unlimited X and would like to buy the TeraFlex 2.5″ Budget Boost with shock extensions. My Jeep has manual transmission but I didn’t understand the part of the sway bar. Do I need to buy the package with sway bar or the other one? Also I have the ARB JK front bumper with a WARN XD9000I, and my other question is if it this lift kit would do it for a 285/70-R17 or 33 with factory wheels. Thanks!
i’m pretty sure they all come with the extended sway bar links now. as far as tires go, yes, they will fit but you may find it necessary to install a set of wheel spacers to help reduce your back spacing enough to clear your rear sway bar link ends.
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I was wondering whats the best lift for a 2009 wrangler jk unlimited with stock rubicon tires on aftermarket XD rims. I dont want it to look silly, but also want to get the most lift possible.
David
i guess that depends on how big of a tire you want to run.
I am going to use the stock tires for now. Do u think the 2.5 will be enough without alot of fender space.
you will not have any problems if you run stock tires.