Instructions
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Here’s a pic of all parts you will get with your new M.O.R.E 1″ Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited body lift. Please verify what you have with this pic and parts list to the left before proceeding. |
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| 1. Park on level ground, open your hood and then using a phillips screwdriver, loosen the plastic retaining screws securing the top of your grille to your Jeep JK Wrangler. |
2. Unfortunately, you may find that a majority of these plastic screws simply turn in place. If this is the case, use a flathead screwdriver to help pry them up and out of their holes as shown in this pic. |
3. Once loose, the entire plastic screw and expansion sleeve should pull up and out of their mounting holes. |
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| 4. Carefully pull your Jeep JK Wrangler’s grille forward to separate the lower trim tabs from their mounting slots. |
5. Lean your Jeep JK Wrangler’s grille forward a bit to gain access to the indicator lights. Then, take the wiring harness plug and pull the red locking tab back. |
6. Squeeze the wiring harness plug and pull it out of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s indicator light socket. |
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| 7. Pull the grille completely off your Jeep JK Wrangler and set it someplace where it won’t get damaged. |
8. Go to the driver side of your Jeep JK Wrangler and find your O2 sensor wiring harness which is located below the brake master cylinder as shown in this pic. |
9. Slide the wiring harness plug off the mounting tab as shown in this pic. This is done to provide enough slack for the wiring harness after the body of your Jeep JK Wrangler is lifted 1″. |
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| 10. Using an 18mm socket, loosen but do not remove the forward most body mount nut on the driver side of your Jeep JK Wrangler. |
11. Using an 18mm socket, loosen but do not remove the 3 body mount bolts along the driver side frame rail of your Jeep JK Wrangler as shown. |
12. Moving towards the rear of your Jeep JK Wrangler, use an 18mm socket to loosen but do not remove the body mount bolt located on the 2nd to the last cross member between the driver side rear shock and coil as shown in this pic. |
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13. Use an 18mm socket to loosen but do not remove the last body mount bolt on the driver side of your Jeep JK Wrangler which is located on the rear corner of next to the muffler as shown in this pic.
14. Repeat steps #10 through #13 on the passenger side of your Jeep JK Wrangler. |
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| 15. Back on the driver side again, use a 16mm socket to remove the 2 nuts securing the forward most body mount to the body of your Jeep JK Wrangler. |
16. Remove the nut and washer securing the forward most body mount to the frame of your Jeep JK Wrangler. |
17. One by one, loosen the other 5 body mount bolts along the driver side frame rail of your Jeep JK Wrangler to the point were they are just dangling in place. Then, using a pry bar, separate the bolt and washer from the body mount as shown in this pic. |
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| 18. Take all 5 driver side body mount bolts and separate the washers from them by placing them in partially open bench vice and striking the bolt with a hammer as shown in this pic. |
19. Stack cut lengths of 2×4 on top of a floor jack, position them under the body and just behind the pinch seam of your Jeep JK Wrangler. |
20. Slowly lift the body of your Jeep JK Wrangler up off the driver side frame rail and go just high enough where you can remove the forward most body mount and be able to slip in a 1″ puck between the body and all the other body mounts. |
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| 21. With the body of your Jeep JK Wrangler raised up a bit, you should be able to remove the forward most body mount on the driver side with ease. |
22. Now that there is a gap created from the lifting of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s body, reach up on top of the other 5 body mounts and remove the thin retaining washers that were previously preventing your body mount bolts from being removed. |
23. Take the body mount that you just removed, place it in a bench vice and knock off the large washer attached to the end of it with a hammer as shown in this pic. |
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| 24. Install one of the new OEM body mounts provided with the M.O.R.E. 1″ body lift up into the forward most position. |
25. Using a 16mm socket, secure the new body mount in place using the factory nuts. Tighten these nuts to 40 ft. lbs. of toque. |
26. Insert a M.O.R.E. 1″ aluminum puck in between the OEM body mount and frame of your Jeep JK Wrangler as shown in this pic. |
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27. Take one of the new 12-1.75×130mm bolts provided with the M.O.R.E. 1″ body lift kit and then slide one of the 1/2″ flat washers onto it as shown. |
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28. Insert the bolt and washer you just assembled up through your Jeep JK Wrangler’s frame, the M.O.R.E. aluminum puck, and OEM body mount. Then, take the factory washer you removed back in step #23, place it on top of the body mount and secure everything in place using the supplied locknut. Leave the bolt and nut finger tight for now. |
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29. Insert a M.O.R.E. 1″ aluminum puck on top of each of the 3 OEM body mounts situated along the driver side frame rail of your Jeep JK Wrangler. |
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| 30. Insert a M.O.R.E. 1″ aluminum puck on top of the body mount located on the 2nd to the last cross member between the driver side rear shock and coil as shown in this pic. |
31. Finally, Insert a M.O.R.E. 1″ aluminum puck on top of the body mount located on the driver side rear most corner of your Jeep JK Wrangler. |
32. Take the remaining 12-1.75×130mm bolts provided with the M.O.R.E. 1″ body lift kit and slide the large factory washers (previously removed back in step #18) on to them as shown in this pic. |
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| 33. One by one, apply some Loc-Tite on to the threads of your new M.O.R.E. 1″ body lift bolts. |
34. Install all the new bolts up through the factory body mounts and M.O.R.E. 1″ aluminum pucks and then secure then finger tight to the body of your Jeep JK Wrangler as shown in this pic. |
35. Lower your floor jack so that the body of your Jeep JK Wrangler is sitting on top of the new M.O.R.E. 1″ aluminum pucks. Repeat steps #10 through #35 and then, using a 19mm socket and wrench, tighten all the body mount bolts to 80 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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| 36. Hold your grille up to the front of your Jeep JK Wrangler and then reconnect the wiring harness for your indicator lights and lock them into place by sliding the red tab in. |
37. Secure the bottom of your grille to the front of your Jeep JK Wrangler by pushing the trim tabs in place. |
36. Using a phillips screwdriver, secure the top of the grille to your Jeep JK Wrangler by inserting and screwing in the plastic retaining screws. |
6-Speed Manual Transmission Owners
If your Jeep JK Wrangler came equipped with a 6-speed manual transmission, you will need to do some minor trimming of the inner shift boot. Failure to do so will make shifting into 2nd, 4th, 6th and Reverse quite difficult. Below are instructions on how to do this. |
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| 1. Firmly grab your Jeep JK Wrangler’s shifter knob and pull up until it pops free of the shift lever. |
2. Grab the edges of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s plastic transmission shifter bezel and pull up until it is free of all the trim tabs. |
3. Take your Jeep JK Wrangler’s transmission shift lever, engage 2nd gear and then use a marker to indicate how far over you will need to cut. |
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| 4. Shift your Jeep JK Wrangler’s transmission into Reverse and then once again, use a marker to indicate how far over you will need to cut. |
5. Shift your Jeep JK Wrangler’s transmission into 3rd and then using an XACTO knife, carefully cut the rubber inner shift boot as shown in the pic. |
6. Cut into the plastic trim ring and clear out as much material as needed to allow your Jeep JK Wrangler’s shifter to stay in gear. |
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And that’s it - you’re done. The body of your Jeep JK Wrangler is now sitting 1″ higher up off the frame and away from your tires too. Please let me know if you have any questions. |
After Pics
Thanks to the addition of the M.O.R.E. 1″ body lift, my Jeep JK Wrangler is now able to clear its tires at a full stuff and without any more rubbing of the fenders. As far as the new 1″ gap between the body and frame goes, it really isn’t so bad as the pinch seam comes down about that much as well. |
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Hey WOL I’ve never been a fan of body lifts you say it doesn’t look to bad, can you not tell to much?
Nice write up, as usual! A small thing but… don’t you mean “OEM”, not “OME”? Might confuse folks with Old Man Emu when I think you mean Original Equipment Manufacturer.
hey jktyrant, the 3 after pics i have above will show you what it looks like and as you can see, it doesn’t look too bad as the pinch seam comes down enough to hide an obvious gap.
robncar, yes, i did find about 3 instances where i mistyped ‘oem’. i think i got them all but if not, please let mek now
quick question- whats the time approx to do the whole job in hours and also can this be done alone or does it take 2 or more people? Please reply back im very interested in this.
hi adam, you can easily do this job by yourself and in about an hour. super simple mod
eddie
Awesome writeup! Do you know what is different on the 2008 4-door vs. the 2007? I plan on doing this to my 2008 4-door Rubicon.
Hi Eddie,
Thanks for the write-up. I was looking forward to it and will use it as soon as my M.O.R.E. BL arrives. The order is in. Have you seen Shortbus’ forum post about eliminating the rear bumper gap? http://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.php?t=32592&highlight=body+lift+pics
Nice idea! As always, thanks for all you’re doing.
Dave
Great write-up. Just one question though…Forgot to lift the passenger side? Might be leaning a little…lol.
Thanks for the write-up…doing my M.O.R.E. body lift this afternoon
Write-up was helpful…thanks again Wayoflife
I did not do these cuts on the inner boot when I installed my MORE lift. But during another wrenching project, I guess I accidentally left the inner boot detached from the body. As a result a tremendous amount of engine heat came up into the cab. I live in Arizona, so this was almost unbearable. It seems a cut like this would cause a similar increase in cab temperature. And fumes.
Also;
1. Unfortunately I did not have this outstanding write-up to read before I did the install 12+ months ago.
2. I do not seem to have any shifting problems.
3. I am still experiencing some increase in engine heat in the cab. Though not nearly as bad as before (no draft effect). This is annoying.
I have not checked yet but I am wondering if the shift lever could have dislodged the boot the first time, and again. I did not see any damage on the boot retainer ring the first time I discovered it dislodged.
Sorry for rambling on, but this heat thing is a problem for me. And it seems to have begun at the time of the MORE install.
Can this be installed if I have the Rock Hard Sliders like these in place?
http://rockhard4×4parts.com/cart/proddetail.php?prod=RH-6006-T
Thanks!
hi mark, unfortunately, you will not be able to use them as they tie into the body mounts.
What did you do with the gaping hole in the lower shift boot? Could you used some epoxy to bring the pieces together and create a seam?
for now, i just have an open hole but would really like to close it up as it allows for a lot more tranny noise to come in. the epoxy idea sounds like something i might have to try.
About the rubber inner shift boot, If I want to install the new 2″ body lift, do I have to cut the metal?!!!!
don’t know for sure as i have only done a 1″ BL but you might
I saw in a previous post that you say this body lift can’t be used with those aftermarket rock sliders (couldn’t check the pic because the link didn’t work). Can this body lift be used on the Rubicon with the factory rock sliders?
yes and it will look perfect being that the rubi rails are mounted to the pinch seam.
Hey this was great. It was really helpful for me at this is my first attempted lift on my own. Did you come across the body mount bolt not releasing they seem to have a pin or something holding them in. Not sure how to get them out with out bending. Any suggestion would be helpful.
Thank you.
Jeepin’chick
Hey,
Not really related to the body lift but did you have to replace your drive shaft when you got your Full Traction 4″ Ultimate suspension?
Cheers,
glenn
hi jeepin chick, there are assembly washers securing the bolts in place. as you can see in my write-up above, you need to use a prybar to free the bolts.
glenn, i didn’t need to but i did anyway. the angles on the factory drivelines are pretty much at their limit at 4″ and keeping them in place will cause the cv joints to wear out sooner than later.
Do you know if I’ll be able to clear 33’s with a 1″ body lift and 1-3/4 daystar spacers in front and 3/4 spacers in back? I have an 09 unlimited rubicon.
In the instructions of the Performance Accessories 1″ Body lift, it is recommended to remove bolt and slide u-joint off of steering shaft. What do you think of that?
I just installed the Performance Accessories kit on my 09 unlimited. I did not do anything with the steering shaft and had no problems. But on the 09 4 door there are 5 body mounts not 6 and the rear bolts are larger than the other ones so use the gold bolts supplied in the kit. You will have to drill out 2 of the spacers to fit these larger bolts. Great write up helped a lot.
Wanted to thank you for posting what has proven to be very informative . The original instructions are pathetic indeed. Thanks to wireless, I had my laptop in the garage and referred to your photos as I worked. I should note that the 08 and later JK’s don’t have the body mount located between rear spring and shock. Moreover, as the rearmost mount uses a larger bolt and spacer with larger hole, don’t make the mistake I did and inadvertently use the larger puck on the side mounts. I had to backtrack and waste 15 minutes.
did you have to relocate anything? Front and Rear bumpers? Radiator? Gas Filler Neck? I am not familiar with the JK’s setup but I know guys with pickups that had these problems to deal with when using body lifts. Also any clearance issues with the 4wheel drive shifter?