Instructions
NOTE: The Jeep JK Wrangler that I installed this lift kit on was already modified a bit so some of the photos you will see will be from other installations that I have done in the past. This has been done to help illustrate the installation of this lift on a stock Jeep. |
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This is a pic of all the parts you should get with your new Rough Country 4" Jeep JK Wrangler Lift Kit. Take some time to make sure you have all the parts shown as well as all the tools listed on the left prior to starting this project. |
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| 1. Park your Jeep JK Wrangler on a level surface and chock your rear tires. Then, using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolts and nuts securing your front sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. (NOTE: If you have a manual transmission, skip to step #4). |
2. If you have an automatic transmission, use an 18mm socket to remove the 3 bolts (one on each frame rail and one on the cross member) securing its skid plate to the frame of your Jeep JK Wrangler. Remove the skid plate and set it aside for now. |
3. Remove the bolt securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front track bar to the front axle mount using a 21mm socket. This can be a tough bolt to remove and an impact wrench or breaker bar will help to make this job |
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4. Loosen (but do not remove) the lug nuts on your front wheels, raise the front end of your Jeep JK Wrangler one side at a time from the axle using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts as shown in this pic. |
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5. Remove the wheels off your Jeep JK Wrangler using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under the front axle to help support it. |
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| 6. Using a 16mm wrench, hold your Jeep JK Wrangler’s shock can in place just below the upper shock mount to keep it from spinning. Then, remove the stud mount nut above using a 16mm Gearwrench. |
7. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front shocks to the lower axle mount. |
8. Using a 10mm socket, remove the bolt securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s brake hard lines from the frame. Set the bolt aside for now as it will be reused. |
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9. Slowly lower your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front axle until the factory front coils can be slipped out of the upper perch and be removed completely with ease. |
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10. Remove the bolt securing your Jeep JK Wrangler factory front lower control arm to the axle mount using a 21mm socket and wrench. This bolt will be tough to remove and a breaker bar may be needed. |
| NOTE: The Rough Country 4" suspension lift kit comes with cam bolts which will allow you to adjust your caster. If you plan on using them, follow steps #11 and #12 below. On this Jeep, we opted to use adjustable lower control arms instead and if you will be doing the same, proceed to step #13. |
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11. If you look closely at your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower control arm axle mounts, you will see that the sides of the square hole are in fact tabs. Working on one side at a time, start on the passenger side, lower your control arm out of the axle mount and then, using a Sawzall with a metal cutting blade, cut off these tabs in order to make the mounting hole a rectangular slot. |
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12. Raise the lower control arm back into your Jeep JK Wrangler’s axle mount and then install one of the cam bolts that come with your Rough Country 4" suspension lift. Make sure to install the bolt from the outside in and then tighten it just snug at this time with the provided nut. Repeat this process on the opposite side of your Jeep. |
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13. If you are replacing your lower control arms with new adjustable ones like we are, you will need to remove them from your frame rail mounts at this time. Making sure to replace just one arm at a time, start on the passenger side of your Jeep JK Wrangler, remove the bolt securing the factory front lower control arm to the frame rail mount using a 21mm socket and wrench. This bolt will be tough to remove and the use of a breaker bar may be needed. Set aside your hardware for now as they will be reused. |
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14. Your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front lower control arms measure 22-5/8" in length center to center. As a starting point, we set our new adjustable lower control arms to being 3/8" longer (23") in length in an effort to provide more positive caster. |
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15. With the gold adjustable assembly joint oriented towards the axle mount, the zerk nipples pointing up and the bend in the arm pointing inward, install your new adjustable front lower control arm onto the frame mount of your Jeep JK Wrangler using the factory hardware. Loosely tighten the bolts on for now. |
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| 16. Install your new adjustable front lower control arm onto the axle mount using the factory hardware. Loosely tighten the bolts for now. |
17. Use a large crescent wrench to tighten up the jam nut as shown in this pic and then repeat steps #13 and #17 on the opposite side of your Jeep. |
18. Use a 21mm socket and wrench to remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front track bar to the the frame mount. Pull your front track bar off and set it aside for now. |
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| 19. Double check to make sure your front wheels are pointing straight and turn your steering wheel until it locks at the column. Then take a 21mm wrench and loosen but do not remove the nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s drag link to the pitman arm. |
20. Insert a pickle fork in between your Jeep JK Wrangler’s pitman arm and drag link and then give the end of it a couple of good whacks with a 3 lb. hammer or until the ball joint tapered stud separates from the pitman arm. |
21. Insert a 7mm Allen wrench into the top of the drag link ball joint stud to hold it in place. Then, use a 21mm wrench to remove the nut. Lower the drag link and allow it to hang in place. |
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22. Using a 34mm socket and an impact wrench or breaker bar, remove the nut and washer securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s pitman arm to the steering box. |
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| 23. Slip a pitman arm puller over your Jeep JK Wrangler’s pitman arm and then proceed to remove it by tightening the puller with a 3/4" socket as shown in this pic. |
24. Install your new Rough Country dropped pitman arm onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s steering box shaft and secure it in place with the factory lock washer and nut. |
25. Using a 34mm socket, tighten your Jeep JK Wrangler’s pitman arm nut to 185 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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| 26. There is a very good chance that the rubber boot on the end of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s drag link will get damaged when separating it from your pitman arm. If this is the case with yours, remove it at this time. |
27. Take your new replacement tie rod end boot, apply axle grease to the inside of it as shown in this pic. |
28. Using a 7mm Allen wrench and a 21mm wrench, attach your Jeep JK Wrangler’s drag link to your new Rough Country dropped pitman arm and secure it in place with the factory nut. Tighten this nut to 77 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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| 29. Install the Rough Country front track bar drop bracket up into the frame mount of your Jeep JK Wrangler as shown in this pic. |
30. Loosely secure the Rough Country front track bar drop bracket in place using the 6/16"x3" bolt, nut and washer provided with the kit. |
31. Loosely attach the 1/2"x1-3/4" bolt, washer and lock washer through the side hole in your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front track bar frame mount as shown in this pic. |
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| 32. Using a 13/16"socket and 7/8" wrench, secure the Rough Country front track bar drop bracket to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s frame mount. Tighten this bolt to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. |
33. Using a 19mm socket, secure the Rough Country front track bar drop bracket side bolt to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s frame mount. Tighten this bolt to 90 ft. lbs. of torque. |
34. Attach your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front track bar to your new Rough Country front track bar drop bracket and secure it in place using the factory hardware. Tighten this bolt to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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35. Make sure that the rubber isolator is still in place at the top of the spring perch. Then, install your new Rough Country 4" front coils by slipping them up your Jeep JK Wrangler’s upper bump stop tower and then set it on the lower spring perch. Rotate the coil until the bottom end of it is seated properly. |
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| 36. Using a flathead screwdriver, separate the plastic retaining clip holding your Jeep JK Wrangler’s brake line to the ESP wiring harness. Simply insert the screwdriver in between the slot on the clip and twist. |
37. On the passenger side of your Jeep JK Wrangler, you will need to pull the plastic fender well back away from the frame. Then, using a flathead screwdriver, separate the hard line from the frame rail by prying the plastic connector out of its mounting hole. |
38. Firmly grab your Jeep JK Wrangler’s brake hard line and carefully bend it so that it’s straighter. |
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39. Using the factory bolt, install the Rough Country brake line extension bracket to the factory mounting hole as shown in this pic. You will need a 10mm socket for this job. |
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40. Using a 7/16" socket and wrench, install your Jeep JK Wrangler’s brake hard line to the Rough Country brake line extension bracket using the bolt, washer and nut provided with the kit. |
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| 41. Begin the installation of your new RCX 2.2 shocks by slipping the large washer on top of the mounting stud (concave side facing up) followed by one of the black polyurethane bushings. Then, insert the mounting stud through the top of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s shock tower as shown in this pic. |
42. Slip the other black polyurethane bushing on the mounting stud of your RCX 2.2 shock followed by another large washer (concave side facing down). |
43. Grasp the RCX 2.2 shocks can firmly with one hand and then secure the mounting stud nut in place using a 16mm Gearwrench.
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44. Using a bench vice or C-Clamp, press in the metal sleeves into the bushings of all your new RCX 2.2 shocks. |
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45. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, secure your RCX 2.2 shock to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s axle mount using the factory hardware and tighten the nut and bolt to 56 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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46. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s front wheels, lower it back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque, remove the wheel chocks from the rear and place them up front. |
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47. With the engine off, put your key in the ignition, make sure that the steering wheel is unlocked and then have a friend turn it in one direction or the other until you can line up your front track bar bushing hole with the front axle mount hole on your Jeep JK Wrangler. Secure the track bar in place using the factory hardware and tighten it to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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48. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s sway bar links back onto the front axle mounts and tighten them to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. You will need an 18mm socket and wrench to do this job. |
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49. If you have an automatic and removed your skid plate earlier, use an 18mm socket to re-install and secure it to the cross member of your Jeep JK Wrangler. Then, place the 2 thick washers provided with the Rough Country lift kit in between the skid plate and your Jeep’s frame rails and secure everything in place using an 18mm socket. This will help prevent your front drive shaft boot from making contact with the skid plate at a full flex. |
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50. Lift the rear end of your Jeep JK Wrangler from the differential using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts. Remove the wheels off using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under front the axle to help support it. |
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51. Remove the wheels off using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under front the axle to help support it. |
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52. Remove the rear track bar bolt and nut from your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower axle mount using a 21mm socket. As was the case with the front track bar, this can be a tough bolt to remove and a breaker bar will help to make this job easier. |
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| 53. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. |
54. Using a 16mm socket and a 6"-12" ratchet drive extension, remove your Jeep JK Wrangler’s 2 upper rear shock mount bolts. |
55. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear shocks to the lower axle mounts. Remove and set aside your shocks for now. |
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| 56. Using a 10mm socket, remove the 2 nuts securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s emergency brake cables to the bottom of the tub. This is necessary in order for you to get your rear axle to droop enough to install your new coils. |
57. Using a 10mm socket, unbolt the rear brake line brackets which are fastened to the outside frame rails of your Jeep JK Wrangler. Leave them dangling at this time. |
58. Slowly lower your rear axle being mindful of the ESP wiring. Once your axle is dropped low enough, your factory coils should just about fall out and can be removed with ease. Set aside the upper rubber isolators as they will be reused. |
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59. Place the factory rubber isolator on top of your new Rough Country rear coils and then install both back on to your Jeep JK Wrangler. Make sure that the rubber isolator is seated properly in the upper spring perch. |
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| 60. Place the Rough Country rear track bar relocation bracket on top of your Jeep JK Wrangler’s axle mount and use it as a template to locate the reinforcement bolt hole that you will need to drill. |
61. Remove the Rough Country rear track bar relocation bracket and then mark the point you will need to drill with a center punch as shown in this pic. |
62. Using a 1/8" metal drilling bit or Unibit, create a pilot hole on top of your Jeep JK Wrangler rear track bar axle mount. Then, drill the rest of the hole out using a 13/32" metal drilling bit. |
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| 63. Insert the supplied 3/8"-16×1" bolt and washer through the top of the Rough Country rear track bar relocation bracket and secure it in place with the accompanying nut. Tighten the bolt and nut using a 9/16" socket and wrench. |
64. Insert the metal crush sleeve that comes with your Rough Country lift kit up into your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear track bar axle mount and then make sure that it lines up with the bolt holes as shown in this pic. |
65. Install the supplied 14mm x 80mm bolt, washer and nut through the base of the Rough Country track bar relocation bracket and secure them in place using a 21mm socket. Tighten them down to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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66. Install the Rough Country track bar relocation bracket support strap to your Jeep JK Wrangler’s driver side shock mount using the supplied 3/8"x1-1/4" bolt, washer and nut. In order to do this, you will need to reach up underneath the rear shock mount to hold the nut in place. To make things easier, I would recommend that you tape the nut to your wrench as it will help you to hold it in place. A 9/16 wrench and socket will be needed for this job. |
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67. Wrap a ratchet strap around your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear track bar frame mount and driver side upper control arm and use it to shift your axle over to the point where the rear track bar mounting hole lines up with the holes on your new Rough Country relocation bracket. |
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69. Make sure that your Rough Country rear track bar relocation bracket support strap is lined up with the upper mounting hole on the relocation bracket. Insert the supplied 14mm x 80mm bolt through the holes so that threads of it are pointing towards the rear of your Jeep. Then secure everything together using the washer and nut provided with the kit and tighten them to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. You will need a 21mm socket and wrench for this job. |
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70. Using the factory bolt, install the Rough Country brake line extension bracket to the factory mounting hole as shown in this pic. You will need a 10mm socket for this job. |
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71. Using a 7/16" socket and wrench, install your Jeep JK Wrangler’s brake hard line to the Rough Country brake line extension bracket using the bolt, washer and nut provided with the kit. |
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| 72. Using a bench vice or C-clamp, press the metal sleeves that come with your new Rough Country rear sway bar links into the bushings as shown in this pic. |
73. Using a 19mm socket and wrench, secure your new Rough Country rear sway bar links onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear sway bar and tighten them to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. |
74. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, secure your new Rough Country rear sway bar link onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower axle mounts using the factory hardware and tighten them to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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| 75. Using a 16mm socket and a ratchet extension, install your new RCX 2.2 shocks on to the rear upper mounts on your Jeep JK Wrangler using the factory hardware. Tighten these bolts to 37 ft. lbs. of torque. |
76. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, install your new RCX 2.2 shocks onto your Jeep JK Wrangler’s lower axle mounts using the factory hardware. Tighten these bolts to 56 ft. lbs. of torque. |
77. Using a 10mm socket, re-secure your Jeep JK Wrangler’s emergency brake cables hanger to the bottom of the tub using the factory nuts. |
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78. Reinstall your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear wheels, lower it back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque. |
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79. Because of the lift, your steering wheel will be off just a bit. To re-center your steering wheel, use a 15mm wrench to loosen the 2 nuts on the turnbuckle as shown in the pic to the left. Then, rotate the turnbuckle clockwise or counter clockwise as needed while a friend watches the steering wheel (or you periodically check on it yourself) go back to center. Once re-centered, secure the nuts and take it for a drive to check your steering wheel. This may take a few tries to get it on 100% but that’s all there is to it. |
Congratulations, you now have a Jeep JK Wrangler that’s sitting on top of a Rough Country 4" Jeep JK Wrangler suspension lift and one that can easily clear a set of 35" tires.
Give your Jeep a thorough test drive and after about 100 miles, give your nuts and bolts another check with the torque wrench just to make sure nothing has come loose.
Please let me know if you have any questions. |
Additional Photos
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| Before w/2.5" Budget Boost |
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| After w/4" Rough Country Suspension Lift |
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| Click on the link below to see all the Rough Country 4" Jeep JK Wrangler suspension lift pics:
Rough Country 4" Jeep JK Wrangler Lift Pics |
I drove to Rough Country in Dyersburg Tn from Alberta to get this kit when it first came out and i’m impressed with the quality and especially affordability of this kit… Keep up the good work!!!!!
What type of gas mileage are you now seeing on your JK after upgrading from the 2.5″ BB to this 4″ suspension lift?
This is a great lift kit! It is easy to install and rides great. So far no problem!!!!
hey bruce, mpg didn’t change as the same tires are being used - 35×12.50’s.
i am currently looking at purchasing this kit. would you recommend running 37″ tires?
this kit will yield exactly 4″ of lift and at that, i really don’t think you can clear 37’s with it alone. you might want to install a 1″ body lift and maybe you can clear them.
I will be using my jk unlimited rubi for 75% on road and 25% offroad. How is the on-road handling of the vehicle. (i.e. sways in turns, etc.) With such a great lift for the money, I’m interested in how it rides on the street as well.
Thank you!!
Jake
Will this kit allow 35/14.50X16 on my JK?
Instead of taking the 2.5 in spacer lift would it be possible if you combined them to have a total of 6.5 in of lift.
Great write up. You mention it took a few hours to do. Would 4-6 hours be a good estimate for the average person doing this as their first lift?
looking to lift 2007 2 door wrangler jk, want 35×12.5 or 315/70/17 or 16, not a really aggresive off roader yet, should I go with 4″ or 2.5″ lift
Hey Matthew i’m running 35X12.50X16’s and i recommend using the 4″ Lift bud…. Can’t go wrong for under $600….
hey TemplarAZ…. this kit was my first install and it took me 8 hours… depends on the tools and space you got!!!!
On step 49, if you have an automatic AND a 4dr (not sure about the 2dr’s), you will want to radius the skid pan directly below the axel. If you do not, the fluted driveshaft will do some of it for you if you get high sided-possibly damaging the driveshaft.
Good write-up!
just wondering about steps 11, and 12. I’m having problems with my jeep after installing my lift with front end shaking after hitting bumps. Its the only thing i was a little sketchy about so I’m wondering if there is something I’m missing with some steps and wondered if you could help? has anyone else had these problems, if so how can it be fixed?
Hi Chris. I have a stock jk and live 3 miles on dirt road. My jeep was also shaking after hitting bumps on pavement. It turned out to be the steering stabilizer. Not sure if thats what yours is but i thought id mention it.
hey Chris did you take it in for a front wheel alignment by chance?!
Hello.
My name is Tzvika and I’m from Israel.
I have a new jk 2008 2 doors and I like it very much. It is all new and has not been off the road yet.
I lifted it for about 3-3.5″ using old man emu heavy duty coils and bilstein shocks. I suffered many problems.
After I read all your articles about alignments on project-jk.com (they are amazing and they saved me), I understood a lot and put on my jk adjustable control arms (upper and lower) from daystar, rear track bar bracket from teraflex and also adjustable track bars (front and rear) from jks.
I have 32″ wheels.
After all that, it had a dramatic improvement in over all handling and it seems to be much better than before.
My caster is 5.5 degrees on both sides. My toe in is about 1/8″. The axles are centered and the steering wheel is also centered. No problems with esp and abs.
I took it to professional alignment and they told me it is perfect.
My problem is that I still suffer from a pull to the right and I can’t solve it. What can I do to fix that?
I also want to know if I have to increase my caster and if so to how much?
I also want to know if I have to use a drop pitman arm (I have one from skyjacker but it should be use on 4-7″ lift).
I will be very happy if you can help me with that.
Tzvika.
: My e.mail tzvika66@bezeqint.net
Hi, I have a 08 sahara wrangler, with 3.73 gears and 6 speed. I’m thinking of putting this 4″ lift in and running a set of 35×12.5×17 tires. Would I need to do anything with my drive shafts and what would you recommend for gear ratio. Thank you for you help.
Just wondering where the answers are to some of these questions. I just picked up an 07′ Wrangler X and want to use this lift with 16×10 wheels with 35×12.5×16 Tires. Thoughts?
Just wondering if anyone answers the questions on here. Don’t look like it for awhile, is there another site that we might be able to get some advice from. Thanks
i really do apologize for not responding to some of these comments sooner. regarding tire size, yes, you can run 35’s with ease.
as far as running this lift in conjunction to a 2.5″ spacer lift goes, you can do it but you NEED to make sure that you address things like your track bars, pitman arm, drive shafts, shocks, brake lines, etc.
time to install this lift would be about 6 hours or so for a first time lift installer.
chris, regarding the shaking you are feeling after hitting a bump, be sure to check your track bar relocation bracket and bolts and make sure they are tightend to specs.
as far as gearing goes, if you are running 35’s, i would recommend that you run 5.13’s
again, i apologize for the delay in answering some of these questions and will try to follow up on them more quickly in the future
I put this lift on my 07 2-door rubicon. I am mostly happy with it, but have a few questions.
1) I was told i didnt need new driveshafts, is that true with a 4″ lift?
2) I had it aligned but it looks like my caster is out a little, how do i fix this, lower control arms??
3) i have read that an adjustable lower track bar is better than a bracket, should i replace the bracket that came with the kit in favor of a new adjustable track bar?
4) should i do the same for the rear track bar?
Thanks,
1. honestly, i’m not sure why you were told that but i can tell you that YOU WILL need a new front u-joint style shaft if you have an auto and you will need a new rear if you have a 2-door only.
2. lower control arms is the best way to add more caster and a set of lowers will be all that you need to do it. pick up a set and set them at about 23″ eye to eye and you should be good.
3. at 4″ of lift, the track bar and drag link will be at a steep enough angle that it will effect your steering/handling. a track bar relocation bracket and dropped pitman arm will allow you to get them flatter again and offer stock like handling. however, even with a the relocation bracket, you may find it necessary to install an adjustable track bar in order to get your axle recenter all the way.
4. not necessarly. you should be fine with what you have but an adjustable rear track bar would be nice to have.
I installed the lift and have enjoyed it for 2 days. Then everything started shaking. personally I don’t like the lower track bar cam bolts. I apparently can’t get them tight enough and the flat edge and funky washers who knows what their orientation should be! Of course with that said, you know I cut out the tabs. My question is - can I still put in adjustable lower control arms or would I need to weld in a piece of square to put that hole back at center.
I have exactly the same lift (RC 4″ lift with 2.2 shocks)installed by a profesionnal technician.
I have the stock Rubi rims and tires
I suffered of violent Death Wobble. (approx. one time each 3000 km)
In the instructions, the caster has to be ajusted at 4.6 degree +/- 1 degree). I paid 2 alignments at 2 different garages, and the maximum caster that I can have is 3.12
WHY?
My suspension and direction have been checked and everything is okay (bushings, all bolts tightened, etc)
A Rough Country technician told me that I should be okay with 3.12 degree caster.
A few days later, another R.C. technician told me that this is why I have death wobble sometimes…!!!
What can I do?
Buy an ajus. lower control arm to be able to have 4.6 degree caster?
Buy a stronger steering damper?
I don’t want to waste my money, please help me!
Thanks
Derek, i apologize for not responding to you sooner. yes, you can still install a set of adjustable control arms but i would recommend having some washers welded over the holes to prevent any movement.
Federico, with cam bolts, you are limited to the amount of caster you can set and 3.12° is shallow enough to help contribute/cause death wobble. a stronger steering dampener will only mask the problem you have now and i would recommend installing a set of adjustable lower control arms.
I was interested in the RC lift that comes with control arms. I would be running the tire/wheel combo it says it was built using. 35×12.5×17″. I won’t be doing even moderate off roading. I also don’t plan on changing the lift size or brand. Do you think I would still need adjustable control arms or are the RC okay? Thanks, Sean.
while adjustable control arms typically stronger and have joint that allow for a greater amount of articulation, off roading benefits are not the reason why you want adjustable arms. at 4″ of lift, if you have a 2-door, you will need to get a new rear u-joint style drive shaft. and, the only way you can set your pinion angle is with a set of upper rear adjustable control arms. up front, the RC kit does give you cam bolts to set your caster but i do not recommend that you use these as you will be required to slot your control arm mounting holes. i would instead recommend a set of adjustable lower front arms and set your caster with them. again, this will give your jeep better handling on pavement.
Thanks, I have a 4 door 6 speed. From what I’ve read on here I should be fine w/o replacing the driveshafts with the RC 4″ lift. So I guess I’ll get the complete kit with arms but still get adjustable lowers. That sound right? Sorry, but I appreciate your time.
I have an 08′ sahara with 6 speed manual 2 door. If I put the 4″ rough country lift in will i need new drive shafts? Also should I put the adjustable track arms front and back for handling or can I get away without them? I want to run 35×12.5×17 mt/atz with the 17×9 sidebitter wheels. although I don’t have the funds available to buy the total package at once if I install the lift could I run stock tires for awhile until I got the tires and wheels? also I have seen some sites list 15″ wheels for the JK will these fit without any grinding of the brake caliper? Thanks for all your help.
hey sean, yes, that is right and you should be good to go.
eric, you will still need to get a rear drive shaft sooner than later as you factory shaft will go bad. for this, you will need rear upper adjustable arms to set your pinion angle. regarding track bars, an adjustable one up front is nice to have but you should be fine with the rear relocation bracket alone. as for wheels, most 15″ steel wheels seem to work out.
I just purchased this kit for my 07 Unlimited 6spd….Question is regarding drive shafts…i know you have stated with automatics you will need a new front and with 2drs a new rear…what about with a 6spd?
with a 6-speed and an unlimited, you will not need a new front or rear shaft.
I agree that Rough Country offers a good suspension for a reasonable price. The only concern that I would have is your Jeep will settle. I installed a 4″ lift and it did settle about 1″ in the front and more in the rear with an LOD expedition bumper system. Other than this no complaints. I did replace the springs with Rubicon Express 4″.
Mat in Arizona
wayoflife, for the replacement boot for the pitman tie rod end, is that just a universal boot you can pick up at any auto store, or is a dealer boot for a specific size tie rod end?
technically, no. the boot is supposed to be a sealed part of the tre but, i have used universal boots to replace mine.
I have a 08 Jk Rubicon and have purchase this kit and was wondering if I need to replace drive shafts at all? It has the 6sp manual and is a two door. Will run stock tires till extra cash flows in. Can stock 17″ rims work with this lift? Thank you
hi jamie, being that you have a 6-speed, you will not need to replace your front drive shaft. however, being that you have a 2-door, you will need to replace your rear sooner than later. the angle on your CV joints will be severe and this will cause them to wear out prematurely. as far as your wheels go, yes, but you will need to get 1.5″ wheel spacers if you plan on running a 12.50″ wide tire.
Can you tell me the makeof the side guard rails
I just read on the forum someone saying the front rear sway bar links the kit came with are NOT supposed to go on the rear but actually on the front. I installed the lift a year ago moved the stock rear sway bars to the front and the rc sway bar links to the rear. The posting said they talked to rc and it was an error and the rc sway bar links ARE for the front. So what are you supposed to use in the rear? I have front quick disco’s and the rc sway bar links in back and everything is cool so im not sweating it but is this true with rc’s links?
Nevermind they must be the same or about the same length i just havent ever measured them.
the new links you get are supposed to be installed in the rear just as you have done. the factory rear links get installed up front.
I’ve got an ‘08 Unlimited Sahara with 18” wheels, I’m looking to put the RC 4” lift on it, will I be ok with keeping the stock wheels and putting on 35×12.5 tires? And are there any components not included with the lift kit that I would need or are highly recommended?
Great site!
yes, you can run 35″ tires no problem. as far as components go, i would recommend that you get adjustable front lower control arms and use them in place of the cam bolts. also, if you have an automatic, you will want to get a new aftermarket front drive shaft.
I have a 2007 4 door automatic with 4.1 gears and still deciding between 33″ or 35″ tires. What else will I need if I install this RC 4″ kit? Front Drive shaft, arms, etc. Thanks for the help!
Do I need both front and back adjustable lower control arms?
no. all you really need are adjustable front lowers and adjustable rear uppers and that’ll do the trick for you.
I have a Jeep unlimited 4 door Automatic 2008 and just installed the RC 4″ lift and drive %80 pavement and %20 moderate off-road, my question are:
1. Do I only need lower front adjustable control arms, or do I need any other adjustable control arms(front, back) or can I get away with stock.
2. Do I need to replace the front driveshaft, techs at RC told me NO? If yes can you recommend a brand and where I can buy one?
3. I already installed the cam bolts, do I welt washers over the holes on both sides, will that be just as strong as original?
4. Is there anything else that is should haves to make my jeep handle better on pavement, this is my daily driver truck?
Thanks,
M
One more thing, what size, length control arms should I get?
hi marius,
1. yes, at bare minimum, you should get new adjustable lower front arms so that you can set your caster.
2. you only need to replace your front drive shaft if the boot gets torn off. this is a common problem if you get big flex.
3. yes, you can just weld on washers to fill in the hole.
4. adding more caster alone will help out a lot.
5. set your lowers to 23″ to begin with and go from there.
I was wondering what max size tire the 09-10 jk 4 door would clear stock if anyone knew without scrub. I wanted the 4″ lift and 35×12.5r18 but if the mechanic says he suggests 5.13’s i don’t want any part of it.
Reel_slow@hotmail.com
Hi, Wayoflife.I want to install 4″ rough country lift kit on my jk, 2008 ,4door ,automatic, sahara.I will have 18×9 wheels with 4.5 backspace and 325/65/r18 tires.Do I have to install any wheel spacers? if yes what size? Thank you.
Any recommendations on the front lower control arms? Expensive=better?
Any suggestions on getting that drag bar separated from the pitman arm? I’ve already spread my pickle fork tines trying to get that sucker off and it hasn’t budged…
BTW, got pitman and drag separated with hammer strikes to the pitman arm. No pickle fork. Just turned wheel all the way to the left and struck the arm at the tapered link exactly in line with the pitman arm.
Pickle forks x2 ruined trying it the other way.
Thanks to Moderator Redneck for the solution.
Hi, I have an 08 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon automatic that I need to lift by Jan 2010, (they are changing the rules on lifted vehicles where I live and I need it Grandfathered before that). I want to run 35×12’s on 17’s. I am concerned with the amount of extras that seem to be needed to install this lift. Would it be easier to go with a 2.5″ suspension, there is the Teraflex 1251000 that says you can run 35’s, then to be safe to install a Daystar body lift? Or would this just cause the same issues with ride quality and U-joints?
Thanks in advance…
with the 4″ kit with arms on a 08 jk sahara 6 speed two door, will i have to replace both drive shafts or just the rear? I want to run 35″ tires, are the gears something i need to worry about right off or will i be able to deal with it? I have 3.73 now thanks for the info
Hey WayOfLife,
I read your previous posts and i know you said “you will still need to get a rear drive shaft sooner than later as your factory shaft will go bad. for this, you will need rear upper adjustable arms to set your pinion angle”. Now i have a 2 door 6 speed. So will i need both a new rear drive shaft and rear adj upper control arms to fix the rear or can i go with one or the other?
Thanks
I have Rough Country 4″ Suspension System. But I have a problem. When I put the 4×4 and try to raise a mud hill with greater speed the vehicle lowers the speed automatically.This is normal in Jeep wrangler 2009 2 door?
try running in 4LO on terrain like that.
I try in 4Lo but I have the same problem. After it installs the suspension. The light of brakes and ESP light is ignited all the time.It will be a problem with the computer?
after reading the reviews hear I have a 2door 2007 jeep and it sounds to me that you are not recomending the standard low end 4″ lift for this vehicle so my question is what is the best all possible match for my jeep. and is their a web site that one can buy new drive shafts if you are recomending them.
thanks from minnesota
I have an 08 JK X Unlimited with the 6 speed. Looking at the 4″ RC with stock control arms. Will I need to replace either drive shafts? I read earlier that the unlimiteds with automatics need to, but wanted to verify if the manual trans need them or not. Thanks in advance. Also, would 4.10s be a decent gearing for this set up (35s on stock 17s with a 4″ running about 80% in town).
If you install an adjustable front track bar, do you need to install the drop pitman arm and track bar relocation bracket?
I’m going to pick up my 2010 sahara 2dr automatic tomorrow. I had the dealer install a 4″ rc lift and 35’s. After reading this, it sounds like i’ve purchased the wrong lift kit. Can you list what all I would need for my application, and what you would change first?(limited funds) I also have stock bumpers, will they Need to be replaced?
I have a 2009 Wrangler Unlimited. Got the 4″ RC lift and when installing 35s on the stock rims… on the lift with the arms fully extended, they made contact on the right read tire and rim. Is it better to go to 18in rims or use spacers? Not sure which way to go.
Thanks!
should I leave my caster at stock angles till I get bigger tires?
If so, will the caster stay stock with stock control arms? or will it change with just the lift?
Does the RC 4″ X series lift come with everything that you would recommend for a 2 door automatic 2007? It runs $1300.Will stock driveshafts do for awhile?
First off, great site! Keep up the awesome work!
I have ordered a 2010 Rubicon Unlimited and was wondering how the automatic swaybar disconnect works with this lift kit, or any lift kit? Can it still be used?
Thanks!
Rob, stationed in Germany.